Eagler's Nest
Airframes => Single Seaters => XL => Topic started by: joecnc2006 on November 27, 2015, 11:28:58 AM
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I have the fuselage tack welded and ready for final welding, I used Mig to tack weld, now will oxy/acetylene the final welding on a rotisserie in a circular pattern.
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Nice . . .
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Looks very neat Joe
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Looks great Joe. Any idea how long it took to get it to that point?
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Looks great Joe. Any idea how long it took to get it to that point?
If i had to guess i would say about 25 hrs it was the first fuselage i did, but hours of research, priceless.
I did have to buy an extra 24' from what the BOM has and I even rounded up the original to make all 8' pieces.
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I'm getting ready to cut the Wing and Gear Fittings, has anyone used these on their LEXL (see pictures) they are on the yahoo group and i can not find the discussion now for what plane they were used on ot who used them, They are slightly bigger in hole spacing than the LEXL plans call for but look like they will work good.
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Without getting into the project details, On most aircraft the front two would be mirror images of each other, these are not. According to the last two posted jpegs of landing gear items.
Like wise the next pair would be the same.
same for the back two sets. Right mirror of left. Joe, Presently I can't think of a reason you wouldn't have your frame built the same (symmetrical) thus the landing gear brackets also being symmetrical. Unless these were built to allow cross tube clearance allowances. In which case it would make perfect sense if someone designed this area this close.
Also I see there are two PN #4 (though different), and no #3
Just saying, I haven't dived into that area yet.
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The reason for the difference is from what I see to allow the clearance of the cross tubs and diagonals. I will bring them into solidworks and overlay them onto my fuselage and post a few pictures.
I only incerted the blocks into acad for a quick post here, I have them in a cad file with out text etc. and have all 8 of them in my original file.
Here is the file nested ready to cut on the CNC Machine, But as mention i will bring it into solidworks first.
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The reason for the difference is from what I see to allow the clearance of the cross tubs and diagonals. I will bring them into solidworks and overlay them onto my fuselage and post a few pictures.
I only incerted the blocks into acad for a quick post here, I have them in a cad file with out text etc. and have all 8 of them in my original file.
Here is the file nested ready to cut on the CNC Machine, But as mention i will bring it into solidworks first.
Good eye Joe, we have to grind plenty out of those 2D tube holes to enter the real world of tube clearancing...
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I got the Gear And Wing Fittings cut. I used some bolts, nuts washers to get the proper spacing and held them into place and they look like they will work real good.
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I am getting to the point where I am ready for the Blackmax tires, I think I want to go with the 6" wheels, can someone give me a good link to the complete kit for everything needed, i.e. rims, wheels brakes, axle, bubs, etc. etc.
I think the 6" will be a little more maybe 600+ but not sure, I do believe aircraft spruce has the complete kit. I just want to triple check and be sure I have the right kit so I can go ahead and order them.
Also If you have an opinion which is better the 4" or 6", where I have been flying a quicksilver (learning to fly) some people land on the pavement and some land in the field next to runway for a softer landing so I may land both locations.
Does anyone have a hardware list or order copy from wicks or aircraft spruce, which would help with the bolts nuts etc. I'm trying to figure out the lengths etc, for example I think the AN3-13A is the 10/32x1.4" with no holes and with out the A it has a hole drilled in thread area. But copy of someones order would help tremendously for the LEXL.
Thanks,
Joe
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Try this, Joe.
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/lgpages/blackmax.php?clickkey=8420
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Try this, Joe.
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/lgpages/blackmax.php?clickkey=8420
Yes I did not hear from anyone, so I went ahead and ordered the 6x6 kit, I like the slightly bigger tires, I think for better landing and plus looks better. overall. Hope it works well.
In their picture I could not see the parking break valve.
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Joe, it does not come with a parking brake valve. You have to add that yourself. Looks like you are making good progress.
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Joe, it does not come with a parking brake valve. You have to add that yourself. Looks like you are making good progress.
What is a good source for it?
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Joe, it does not come with a parking brake valve. You have to add that yourself. Looks like you are making good progress.
What is a good source for it?
That MOD was pioneered by Sam Buchanan and the source of the valve at McMaster Carr was on his website now retired... Perhaps Sam will jump in with the info... There is a url reference elsewhere on this site if you have a copy of Sam's old pages to search... It's possible the valve is also sold by Leading Edge or similar source of the Black Max system...
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Welded the Wing-gear fittings/brackets.
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Blaclk Max parking brake valve...http://store.freebirdinnovations.com/category-s/115.htm
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The 6x6 blackmax wheels tires are what i am using. Works good on and off hard surface. Flying LEXL
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Anyone have some closeup pictures of the landing gear, most i see its hard to see details, the plans call for 3/8" tube where they connect to the 1/4" bolts to fittings, but then you weld a 5/8" and a 3/4" to it, seems small to weld a large er tube to them.
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Blaclk Max parking brake valve...http://store.freebirdinnovations.com/category-s/115.htm
Sam Buchanan used PN 4912K71 from: http://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/122/455/=110m7yc (http://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/122/455/=110m7yc)
It is a little cheaper and the suggested current PN is: 4912K1
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It is a little cheaper and the suggested current PN is: 4912K1
Catalog Page (http://www.mcmaster.com/nav/framework.asp?reqtyp=catalog&CtlgPgNbr=455&sesnextrep=358616207496955&CtlgEdition=122&k1=4912K1&t1=PN)
(https://www.eaglersnest.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.mcmaster.com%2Flibrary%2F20150720%2F4912K100L.GIF&hash=2931305854a0b2ed7657bbf3d96b478ad04787c0)
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Anyone have some closeup pictures of the landing gear, most i see its hard to see details, the plans call for 3/8" tube where they connect to the 1/4" bolts to fittings, but then you weld a 5/8" and a 3/4" to it, seems small to weld a large er tube to them.
Bump.8
I just need some ideas what people used in the assembly for attaching the gear struts to the portion in the plans, it calls for 3/8" dia with 1/4" through hole for bolt, but when attaching the 5/8" and or 3/4" tube to it the 3/8" is pretty small.
Can someone enlighten how they did theirs to achieve a good strong connection point, I know adding the fingers will help. Page 23. (see picture). Some build pictures would be a great help.
I made an aluminum insert 0.552"x7/8" with the 1/4" through hole to place inside the 5/8" tube which fits just right with the brackets, the Aluminum inserts would be added last as not to heat them up when welding, use some sort of steel mandrel to retain the 5/8" tube shape when welding. then place the finger straps, The aluminum inserts will be a press fit.
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Ok, after searching for three days I finally found a thread which may help, Is this what most have dome?
http://www.eaglersnest.com/forum/index.php/topic,342.msg1903.html#msg1903
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The top connections on main gear are not a problem in that they are mostly in compression.
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That's exactly what I did without the bushing...
Reamed the thru hole after welding so no interior burrs..
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Waiting on springs to finish out the Landing Gear, Got the Blackmax kit in wanted to see how it looked.
next will be the tail wheel, to have a rolling chassis. then start tail horz. and vert. stabilizers, and start on interior rigging.
My Motor parts should be here within a week, 92mmx82mm I think should get about 40hp not sure, maybe someone has a similar setup.
I also picked up the MAG and will try to install it instead of using the distributor, Scott Casler said he uses 4 mounting bolts in the rear of the crankshaft and attached a short drive shaft to connect to mag. for the full case.
I Also Stopped by and visited with Leonard Milholland on Monday I was in the area, he was going to fly the cabin eagle but it was a little to windy, It would handle it but he wanted a calmer day for test flights.
And also got his prop hub. it is a little different now it allows more space between prop and exhaust.
It was really nice chatting with him again.
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I got the Shock Struts done, I also added a horizontal bar to the swing arm.
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I am not starting on my Tail surfaces, and have a couple of questions.
how is everyone bending the short 2" piece at the bottom of the front Rudder and middle front Elevator piece.
And also how do you normally hold the tubbing for the support wires in the gusset, you do not have a bolt in it while covering the pieces.
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And also how do you normally hold the tubbing for the support wires in the gusset, you do not have a bolt in it while covering the pieces.
Leonard originally used JB Weld; ran out of empty weight and glue money, drilled undersized gusset thru hole and center punched the extra gusset material into the bushing bore on each side, cleaned out to 3/16 bolt size with a reamer at assembly time... Kajon Krafty...
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Joe, leave your tube long at the bend area and cut it to length after bending. Leonard uses a hole drilled in his table that he sticks the tube in to bend a little at a time. I thought about using t-88 to hold the bushing in place, but I like Steve's suggestion better.
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I made a quick and simple Metal break, I had all material on hand in a storage shed so I did not have to buy anything, It is good enough for the Tail Section ribs. I started with the Tail Vertical Stabilizer, got one side gussets and also I added two additional support pieces, one for the bottom and one for the rear to protect from fabric shrinkage and pull. I had to stop on the 3/4" rear piece I need to fab the hinges to slide them into place before placing the rear gussets.
I may try a trick to hold the tubes in the gussets for the support wires, which I use on foam RC planes for repair. I mix a little bit of gorilla glue in a small cup with a couple of drops of water, the use a Popsicle stick to put a little on the area and wait a few minutes, the mixture starts to foam up because of the water added and fills in the areas, It is really light and should hold the tubes in place It is just like foam. and much lighter than JB Weld. I will try this and if it does not work then i will stake the tubes into place.
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OMG! You only have 6 places where the tubes need to be J-B Weld-ed... How much weight is that???
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OMG! You only have 6 places where the tubes need to be J-B Weld-ed... How much weight is that???
Well you do have a point there.
btw: I need to come back out to San Geronimo and see you fly weather is getting better just need the winds to settle down. and especially when I get my engine, I may need your help a little.
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And also how do you normally hold the tubbing for the support wires in the gusset, you do not have a bolt in it while covering the pieces.
Leonard originally used JB Weld; ran out of empty weight and glue money, drilled undersized gusset thru hole and center punched the extra gusset material into the bushing bore on each side, cleaned out to 3/16 bolt size with a reamer at assembly time... Kajon Krafty...
This essentially means in sheet metal parlance, that, he (Leonard) extruded the hole into the bushing. Great idea and easy to do.
Ken
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I'm curious if anyone see's a problem with making the tail section hinges out of 6061-T6 aluminum. I think they should be strong enough for our purpose, Just curious what everyone thought.
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How good is your heliarc welding??
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I built mine from steel, wrapped the aluminum with electrical tape and rivited them on.
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I like it! This looks to be more robust than the piano hinge. Although those extruded piano hinges are quite solid. Mounting them to a round tube seems suspect for long term strength.
Rather than welding them in, using an industrial epoxy along with a rivet should be more than enough to lock them in place and not distort the tubes. I am assuming 3 pieces per hinge location and stainless steel pins?
Ken
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I like it! This looks to be more robust than the piano hinge. Although those extruded piano hinges are quite solid. Mounting them to a round tube seems suspect for long term strength.
Rather than welding them in, using an industrial epoxy along with a rivet should be more than enough to lock them in place and not distort the tubes. I am assuming 3 pieces per hinge location and stainless steel pins?
Ken
It would still only require two per hinge just like the original, they are opposite each other (mirror on each end) so that would prevent from moving side to side, and also use a cotter pin, and add a nylon washer between the hinge pieces to help minimize wear.
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Joe,
I've not received my plans yet, so there is some conjecture on my part. What's the required length? Might make a good water jetted part as well with reaming the internal bores and polish off the outside.
Ken
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How good is your heliarc welding??
Not very good, the CNC Machine is much better than me.
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Joe,
I've not received my plans yet, so there is some conjecture on my part. What's the required length? Might make a good water jetted part as well with reaming the internal bores and polish off the outside.
Ken
They are 1/2" thick, I was wondering what everyone thought of these, seems like the original 3/4" thin aluminum tube would bend before these give way.
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I made two test Hinge pieces, one with 0.06" wall thickness (top in picture) and the other with 0.08".
I like the 0.08" one better so will use those, they are a nice fit.
13 more to go and one from from chromoly to be welded to the tail post.
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Nice!
What is the tube thickness these go on? Bet that the 0.080 is overkill when you compare it with the tube it is going on. Now I could see a taper with 0.080 near the hinge post and tapering down around the tube.
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Those hinges look like the ones Robert Baslee has in his kits! Nice extrusions!!
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Nice!
What is the tube thickness these go on? Bet that the 0.080 is overkill when you compare it with the tube it is going on. Now I could see a taper with 0.080 near the hinge post and tapering down around the tube.
the post is 3/4" OD with 0.035" wall
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Those hinges look like the ones Robert Baslee has in his kits! Nice extrusions!!
Who is Robert Baslee? do you have a link to his? I just drew them up using the plans as an example, and making the wall thicker, my thinking is aluminum is 1/3 the strength of steel.
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I made two test Hinge pieces, one with 0.06" wall thickness (top in picture) and the other with 0.08". I like the 0.08" one better so will use those, they are a nice fit. 13 more to go and one from from chromoly to be welded to the tail post.
Nice work Joe!
How will/do these get fixed to the tube?
Ken
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I made two test Hinge pieces, one with 0.06" wall thickness (top in picture) and the other with 0.08". I like the 0.08" one better so will use those, they are a nice fit. 13 more to go and one from from chromoly to be welded to the tail post.
Nice work Joe!
How will/do these get fixed to the tube?
Ken
Just like the originals, rivet to tube.
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Robert Baslee = http://www.airdromeaeroplanes.com/
I don't see where he sells them individually. I only know cause I built a Dream Classic and it had them on the ailerons and elevator/rudder...
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Robert Baslee = http://www.airdromeaeroplanes.com/
I don't see where he sells them individually. I only know cause I built a Dream Classic and it had them on the ailerons and elevator/rudder...
The part looks like a mill and drill operation, not a weld and slice one.
Leonard's 4130 type is strong, light and can be made with a weld bead and hack saw.
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Joe, something here went way over my head, can you clear it up for me? Are those extrusions? Custom extrusion or off the shelf? Is there a cost effective way to make a custom extrusion that I don't know about? Sorry for the dumb question, I don't mean to be a smart-aleck, I'm just confused.
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Robert Baslee = http://www.airdromeaeroplanes.com/
I don't see where he sells them individually. I only know cause I built a Dream Classic and it had them on the ailerons and elevator/rudder...
The part looks like a mill and drill operation, not a weld and slice one.
Leonard's 4130 type is strong, light and can be made with a weld bead and hack saw.
Yes that is how I made them, They are just as strong and less than half the weight of the steel ones.
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Joe, something here went way over my head, can you clear it up for me? Are those extrusions? Custom extrusion or off the shelf? Is there a cost effective way to make a custom extrusion that I don't know about? Sorry for the dumb question, I don't mean to be a smart-aleck, I'm just confused.
The hinges are made from plate aluminum on a CNC Machine.
I only had some 3/4" thick scrap so I mill down to 1/2" thick then I used peck drilling and spiral mill routine.
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Joe, they look awesome!!! I love them and would buy if for sale and I was building again!!!!!
I don't know for sure HOW Airdrome Airplanes makes theirs but yours look very cost effective and functional!!!
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Very nice! They look exactly like an extruded part.
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Tail section Hinges.
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Nice looking hinges! Are you going to sell these?
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This is what they will look like, I also made one out of 4130 to weld on the Fuselage.
They are pretty strong and super light.
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Nice looking hinges! Are you going to sell these?
I have not thought about it, but I guess I could. Not sure what they would go for, any suggestions?
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First part of the tail section.
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Tough question. I would think $54.00 for a set... Does this sound right?
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Joe,
Would you be interested in sharing your specifications for your hinge parts. I want to make some for myself and can handle nearly any file format.
Ken
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I am getting to the point where I am ready for the Blackmax tires, I think I want to go with the 6" wheels, can someone give me a good link to the complete kit for everything needed, i.e. rims, wheels brakes, axle, bubs, etc. etc.
I think the 6" will be a little more maybe 600+ but not sure, I do believe aircraft spruce has the complete kit. I just want to triple check and be sure I have the right kit so I can go ahead and order them.
Also If you have an opinion which is better the 4" or 6", where I have been flying a quicksilver (learning to fly) some people land on the pavement and some land in the field next to runway for a softer landing so I may land both locations.
Does anyone have a hardware list or order copy from wicks or aircraft spruce, which would help with the bolts nuts etc. I'm trying to figure out the lengths etc, for example I think the AN3-13A is the 10/32x1.4" with no holes and with out the A it has a hole drilled in thread area. But copy of someones order would help tremendously for the LEXL.
Thanks,
Joe
Bump:
the list in the plans seem to be a little slim on quantity, for the hardware does someone have a better list?
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Got the Vertical Tail sections done, with hinges in proper areas.
Its funny how you start measuring each rivet placement, then about 1/2 the way through you start eyeballing them, you mark a few in the gussets then start just placing the rest.
I keep in mind we are building a 60mph tops plane so they will certainly be good.
I know you have heard this before but they are really strong and surprisingly light weight.
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They sure look good sitting up there where they go...:emoji_u1f60e:
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I got all the tail section fabricated, and also drew and cut out the Rudder Horn, and temporarily instilled it with a couple of rivet, which can easily be drilled out when I'm ready to cover the rudder.
I'm trying to figure out the Elevator Horn install, I have the horn made, and welded onto the 7/8" 4130, does the elevators just slide in and then it is riveted or bolted or how have some done it? I tried to find pictures but could not locate one, and the plans do not call how to install.
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Joe, Look on page one of your elevator- stabilizer plan sheet. It says to drill 3/16 holes for bolts in connectors-one each side.
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Joe, Look on page one of your elevator- stabilizer plan sheet. It says to drill 3/16 holes for bolts in connectors-one each side.
Thanks, I see it now, I hope one bolts each side is enough to lock them together. Seems like over time you can get some slop and consider the torsional load on the 3/4" aluminum.
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Been flying my LE over 5 years (coming up on 6 in May) and no slop yet.....
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I did a little mockup of the fabric covering, shrinks real nice. I need to get some Latex paint and see how it works on the test piece, use the primer first then the latex gloss on top, not sure if going gloss or semi-gloss.
Also Receive a package today of allot of the hardware.
All the Spruce and wood should be on its way next week.
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Joe, How do you like working with the Stewart system glue? I was thinking of makeing a test panel also, just to get used to the covering process. I have covered a many a control line and remote control models with everything from tissue paper and dope to iron on monocote and coverite. But I have never covered a real airplane. Dad had used the stits process on a couple of larger models before he passed away. Looks like you have a good start on your hardware. At the rate you are going, you will be flying before long.
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After Allot of research on the coverings available. I decided on the stewards type of process its simple and they have easy to follow videos on youtube. And after a little more research, the 3M30NF Green Fastbond appears to be the same as the Stewarts EcoBond, I downloaded the data sheets for both and compared ingredients and instructions, they are just about identical from what I see. The 3M30NF comes in a neutral and the green, just like stewarts. So I got a Quart of the 3M30NF in green so i can see the coverage areas when applied. I used the same process as Stewarts Video's. The same working time is the same on both products, It looks like it works the same and the results are very good, it is sealed up and bonded very well.
This is just what I chose to do, I would highly suggest if anyone wants to use the alternative that they test it for them self to see if it will work for you or not. There are also allot of discussion on the AVID Flyers forums, KitFox forums and Homebuilt Airplanes as well as a few other sources which talk about this also and shows others using it with good success.
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Rudder Pedals done, now i can use string line for placement of the fairleads to the rudder..
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I'm trying to figure out the Rudder cabling placements for the fairleads but having a little brain fart on where to place them. and how much of the cable to have on the outside of the fuselage towards the rear. I tried searching yahoo pictures and here and google, but can not see any good pictures representing their placement.
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After Allot of research on the coverings available. I decided on the stewards type of process its simple and they have easy to follow videos on youtube. And after a little more research, the 3M30NF Green Fastbond appears to be the same as the Stewarts EcoBond, I downloaded the data sheets for both and compared ingredients and instructions, they are just about identical from what I see. The 3M30NF comes in a neutral and the green, just like stewarts. So I got a Quart of the 3M30NF in green so i can see the coverage areas when applied. I used the same process as Stewarts Video's. The same working time is the same on both products, It looks like it works the same and the results are very good, it is sealed up and bonded very well.
This is just what I chose to do, I would highly suggest if anyone wants to use the alternative that they test it for them self to see if it will work for you or not. There are also allot of discussion on the AVID Flyers forums, KitFox forums and Homebuilt Airplanes as well as a few other sources which talk about this also and shows others using it with good success.
So, I gather you feel everything is the same...between the two Joe, so with that in mind, and having worked with the Stewart product. I assume you saved money with the 3M? but you never said? So was that the reason at the end? Curious....
Good work Joe.
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After Allot of research on the coverings available. I decided on the stewards type of process its simple and they have easy to follow videos on youtube. And after a little more research, the 3M30NF Green Fastbond appears to be the same as the Stewarts EcoBond, I downloaded the data sheets for both and compared ingredients and instructions, they are just about identical from what I see. The 3M30NF comes in a neutral and the green, just like stewarts. So I got a Quart of the 3M30NF in green so i can see the coverage areas when applied. I used the same process as Stewarts Video's. The same working time is the same on both products, It looks like it works the same and the results are very good, it is sealed up and bonded very well.
This is just what I chose to do, I would highly suggest if anyone wants to use the alternative that they test it for them self to see if it will work for you or not. There are also allot of discussion on the AVID Flyers forums, KitFox forums and Homebuilt Airplanes as well as a few other sources which talk about this also and shows others using it with good success.
So, I gather you feel everything is the same...between the two Joe, so with that in mind, and having worked with the Stewart product. I assume you saved money with the 3M? but you never said? So was that the reason at the end? Curious....
Good work Joe.
The cost is about half for the 3M product. here are the spec data sheets if you like to compare the two.
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I agree Joe. Went through the same research a few years back including the MSDS. Posted on old site and probably on "cheap aircraft coverings". An old yahoo group.
I have older Aircraft Spruce catalogs where the peel ply was sold as uncertified aircraft covering. Same item number after the change to peel ply.
Not to take anything away from Stewart. He has got this latex system approved for certified aircraft. I doubt he is a paint or adhesive manufacturer.
Any idea of the years, manpower, and money 3M has in adhesive research.
Last I checked we are not building certified aircraft. If you are then no substitution would be permitted.
Tom XL-7
Sam used the peel ply on XL-58. He noticed some blemishes in fabric.
Didn't seem too concerned and Sam is a picky builder.
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Joe, for your rudder/tailwheel cable, I just pulled a straight line between the rudder horn and the pully wheel under the seat and put two guides.. one behid the seat and one about 24"+/- from the tail... in front of where I connected the cables to the tailwheel.... the closest angle tube thereto...I think.... just be sure the cablr does not drag on any other tubes... when taught... i put some split fuel tube on one set of angle tube that rubbed a bit when slack...
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I made a prototype of a pedal attachment to allow for more contact surface with the ball of the foot, I want to make a couple of changes.
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Looks good Joe,
You may want to "stiple" the pad surface, so as to keep foot from sliding on this surface. Easily done in several ways. One simple way is to lightly coat with epoxy and apply sharp grit such as black diamond sand blast media. But there are many ways, for very little weight.
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Looks good Joe,
You may want to "stiple" the pad surface, so as to keep foot from sliding on this surface. Easily done in several ways. One simple way is to lightly coat with epoxy and apply sharp grit such as black diamond sand blast media. But there are many ways, for very little weight.
Yea one of the changes i want to do, I was thinking a checkering like i have done for gun grips, I also want to make it 4" wide.
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I got the Tail Section done with temporary Bolts etc. I just need to make the cable stabilizers, and then rig the elevator and rudder controls, then will be able to cover the tail section and primer them.
I also made a temp seat for mockup, will more than likely change it out later for the traditional LE Seat.
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I got the Tail Section done with temporary Bolts etc. I just need to make the cable stabilizers, and then rig the elevator and rudder controls, then will be able to cover the tail section and primer them.
I also made a temp seat for mockup, will more than likely change it out later for the traditional LE Seat.
Feel good time!... Looks well crafted and always so o o natty...
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This is what I am planning for the Bellcrank Bearing Housing.
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I made the first tensioner for the tail sections, will need 8 of them for the top and bottom of the horizontal stabilizers. I think i want to make them a little longer to have a more adjustment.
For those who have had to add/remove washers and such to adjust cable tension. how much travel do you think may need, I was thinking another 1/2" on the length should do it from what i have now.
I was trying to find the sample picture i had but can not see it on here or my computer.
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24 yrds of Dacron will be delivered tomorrow, with 1" 2" and 3" pinked tapes, and getting some more 3m Fastbond, so can start covering tail section.
All my wood was shipped out today, so hopefully start the wing builds. here is my wood order hopefully everything is correct. I think it is, if you see something please let me know.
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Got the guide wire tension adjusters and cables installed and started covering the tail section. have to be careful and not over heat, the longer spans will start to bow inward inward, the first one had a little bow on the inside of the elevator. but not to bad at all you have to look down it to be able to see it. I went ahead and covered the rivets, gussets and ribs with tape prior to covering.
The Stewart system video's do not show any additional tape along the perimeter edge of the control surfaces, anyone who uses this system what did you do?
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Glidden grey Primer "Gripper"
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Here are my Bell Crank bearing housing.
Cheaper than buying them since I have all the bearings and aluminum already.
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appages/bc4w10.php
Two side machine operation, using probe to find center.
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It is looking good Joe. It is nice to have the capability to make your own bellcrank bearings. I got my dorsal fin, rudder and horizontal stabilizers covered. I still need to cover my elevators though. I am using green 3M Fastbond glue also. I also made a laminated tail spring out of 10 Maple strips 1/16th thick glued with t-88 epoxy then placed in a jig. I made the jig out off two 3/4x12x24 inch pieces off mdf glued and nailed together. I drew the shape I wanted on the front and used a band saw to cut it out. Then I cleaned up the edges with my sanding block. It worked real good. It feels very light compaired to the leaf spring I bought from Northern Tool. I hope it will hold up to the abuse..
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It is looking good Joe. It is nice to have the capability to make your own bellcrank bearings. I got my dorsal fin, rudder and horizontal stabilizers covered. I still need to cover my elevators though. I am using green 3M Fastbond glue also. I also made a laminated tail spring out of 10 Maple strips 1/16th thick glued with t-88 epoxy then placed in a jig. I made the jig out off two 3/4x12x24 inch pieces off mdf glued and nailed together. I drew the shape I wanted on the front and used a band saw to cut it out. Then I cleaned up the edges with my sanding block. It worked real good. It feels very light compaired to the leaf spring I bought from Northern Tool. I hope it will hold up to the abuse..
That's exactly what I want to do is the laminated tail spring, do you have some pictures in your build on the jig and the glue up and also of course the finished.
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Joe I do have pictures, but I am not smart enough to post them. My son-in-law is an expert on computers and he usually does my pictures for me. He lives in another county though. I might could take a picture with my cell phone and send it to your phone.
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Love to see the laminated tailspring also. It would be a great thread on its own.
Nice work Joe!
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Ok, here is the rest of the story on the aileron Bellcranks.
I used skate bearings and made the spacers for the 1/4" bolts to mount them on the struts. the spaces serve as three things, as the spacer mentioned, washers and standoffs. The 1/8" aluminum arm is riveted in 6 places, don't think I need all twelve. when riveted it captured the bearing and the bearing housing has lip on the other side so the bearing is very secure on the outer race, the spacers fit inside this and have very smooth action, I believe they will work well. it is from the DE as posted in the discussion here and with the spacers I will wait and see how much if any i need to bend the connecting arm outward to have clearance and proper alignment.
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Almost time to start on the main wings. Here is the Jig i made the spruce is a nice snug fit. should have very good uniformity.
I will use a clamp and a small aluminum plate per gusset to create even clamping pressure.
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Nice jig!
Is that nylon, delrin, etc...?
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Nice jig!
Is that nylon, delrin, etc...?
It is cut from HDPE. glue will not stick to it and ribs pop out easily when pulled out.
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Looking great Joe, you'll be flying before long.
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Nice jig! Is that nylon, delrin, etc...?
It is cut from HDPE. glue will not stick to it and ribs pop out easily when pulled out.
Kudos!
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Joe, you should sell these jigs. Perhaps Leonard would include your information in his plans. I would be interested if I had not completed my ribs.
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Joe,
What do you think about adding a clearance pocket for the gussets on the jig side to be able to make a one step assembly?
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Joe,
What do you think about adding a clearance pocket for the gussets on the jig side to be able to make a one step assembly?
I had thought about that, I have seen a couple just like you have which have the cutouts (rib-o-matic), but I did not want to worry or be troubled by having to ensure the gussets did not slip on both sides when clamping and add more work sanding them down over the edges more than the standard smoothing them out. This may not be an issue but i elected to make it the way i did. Tine is not of the essence, since I am saving the time of the staples anyway. and I also use the cutout lines of the jig to make a closer fit of each rib. as shown in the picture below.
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The Jig seems to be working pretty well, the spruce is regular from the 0.25" so you have to rotate it to get best fit in jig. but it fits good.
5 down 21 to go I believe
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Rib jig is a really nice piece of work. So much better'n the old-fashion jigs most of us built. Great job. Looks to guarantee a perfect duplicate set too.
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Rib jig is a really nice piece of work. So much better'n the old-fashion jigs most of us built. Great job. Looks to guarantee a perfect duplicate set too.
Yes they are coming out exactly the same each and every time.
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Redesign of Rudder Pedals.
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Joe,
That's some beautiful work on the pedals, but it got me thinking.
First let me say that I have limited full scale stick time and do not have a pilots license. However, I have noticed that a tendency for rudder pedals to allow for a push-push pumping function of the legs and not just from ankle movement. Your pedals will limit you to ankle movement only. I would love to hear from the pilots here on this from the standpoint of flying. I might make a difference in how we perceive how things should be.
(Edit) I just realized there are many ultralight aircraft rudder pedals that are ankle actuated. I suppose the rudder system is light enough to not need additional force from the legs.
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Joe,
That's some beautiful work on the pedals, but it got me thinking.
First let me say that I have limited full scale stick time and do not have a pilots license. However, I have noticed that a tendency for rudder pedals to allow for a push-push pumping function of the legs and not just from ankle movement. Your pedals will limit you to ankle movement only. I would love to hear from the pilots here on this from the standpoint of flying. I might make a difference in how we perceive how things should be.
(Edit) I just realized there are many ultralight aircraft rudder pedals that are ankle actuated. I suppose the rudder system is light enough to not need additional force from the legs.
My HiMax has full Plywood rudders hinged at the floor, and most all Cubs and taildragers have full pedals, since you have to be so active on the pedals, "Punch and Jab" I wanted as much contact area as possible for me. Also One thing to consider are "Shoes" to wear to allow full movement as much as possible.
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On the Legal Eagle XL and UL the rudder pedal energy to create full travel is very light. During normal flight removing feet from rudder pedals and reaching down with 2 fingers and just squeezing cable is enough to move to ends of travel
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Question: I am building DE-F95, and REALLY like the adjustment tabs that you have built....WELL DONE!....I assume that this is a modification from the plans, as all the "eagle series" that I have seen had the washer/spacer method of cable tension adjustment. All stainless or stainless strap and AN hardware?. Just curious. I understand the weight concerns that Leonard had with the LE and others, but 8 or so more ounces on the empennage is not a big deal on an LSA(seems like most builders, after W&B calculations wish they would have added a foot to the aft cabin area), so no big. ...GREAT BUILD!!!
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Joe, I am a very new member here on the site. Noticed that we are not too very far from each other. Ledbetter, Texas. Close to Round Top. I'm in that "consideration" stage of building a LEXL. Just to let you know I appreciate your helpful post. As I dive into this project I'm sure I'll reference them often. Thanks.
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Joe, That's some beautiful work on the pedals, but it got me thinking. First let me say that I have limited full scale stick time and do not have a pilots license. However, I have noticed that a tendency for rudder pedals to allow for a push-push pumping function of the legs and not just from ankle movement. Your pedals will limit you to ankle movement only. I would love to hear from the pilots here on this from the standpoint of flying. I might make a difference in how we perceive how things should be. (Edit) I just realized there are many ultralight aircraft rudder pedals that are ankle actuated. I suppose the rudder system is light enough to not need additional force from the legs.
My HiMax has full Plywood rudders hinged at the floor, and most all Cubs and taildragers have full pedals, since you have to be so active on the pedals, "Punch and Jab" I wanted as much contact area as possible for me. Also One thing to consider are "Shoes" to wear to allow full movement as much as possible.
Thanks for the clarification. I realized the HiMax had the full plywood hinged at the floor and realized the assumption I had made, hence the edit. Good to know the pedal forces are light and more about pumping the toes rather than the legs.
Keep up the good work!!
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Joe, That's some beautiful work on the pedals, but it got me thinking. First let me say that I have limited full scale stick time and do not have a pilots license. However, I have noticed that a tendency for rudder pedals to allow for a push-push pumping function of the legs and not just from ankle movement. Your pedals will limit you to ankle movement only. I would love to hear from the pilots here on this from the standpoint of flying. I might make a difference in how we perceive how things should be. (Edit) I just realized there are many ultralight aircraft rudder pedals that are ankle actuated. I suppose the rudder system is light enough to not need additional force from the legs.
My HiMax has full Plywood rudders hinged at the floor, and most all Cubs and taildragers have full pedals, since you have to be so active on the pedals, "Punch and Jab" I wanted as much contact area as possible for me. Also One thing to consider are "Shoes" to wear to allow full movement as much as possible.
Thanks for the clarification. I realized the HiMax had the full plywood hinged at the floor and realized the assumption I had made, hence the edit. Good to know the pedal forces are light and more about pumping the toes rather than the legs.
Keep up the good work!!
Its always nice to have the experianced guys chime in like les and others.
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Most of my Engine Parts Showed up Today. and I have been covering the empennage so they are ready for paint, I test painted one elevator before so now the rest are ready.
You can also see the Aluminum shaft made by Scott Casler. for the Magnito.
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Here is the tail sections ready for paint.
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I think I forgot to post a picture showing the stack of ribs I did a while back in June. This is before sanding.
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Lookin Great Joe!
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An update:
Got all my Engine parts from Bob Demello, The heads and Mag adapter came from Scott Casler,
I pained the case you can see what I used to block the bolt holes and tape on the studs, and used foam to block everything else.
After talking to Scott Casler, I placed the thrust bearing on the #2 position Bob sent me an oversize bearing for this reason which i machined to match the journal with a tight snug fit. Then measured its overhang from the journal and added the shims width and the 0.004" play to get the dimension that the cam gear had to be machined down, This ensures the correct spacing with the cam gear, the spacer, the brass dist gear and the ring keeper at the end, and since the bearing overhangs, the cam shaft gear had to be cut from the rear, both machined on my lathe.
I am plugin all the necessary rear oil ports and also removing the front restricter plug. The engine should come together quickly (well I hope).
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I believe the guy in Cali that does the crankshaft is Bob DeMello....Last name with a D, not an M... Just saying....
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I believe the guy in Cali that does the crankshaft is Bob DeMello....Last name with a D, not an M... Just saying....
Yes you are correct I went back and edited it, I should have caught that misspelling i talked to his every week for the past few months.
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Here is a picture I had on the Motor, then I took it over to Bob S. and he finished it up for me, i was getting busy on other things, But not need to finish the plane.
then Bob finished it up for me, He noticed I pinched a bearing so he fixed that and finished assembly.
I went over there Saturday and we timed the MAG, then after a few hand prop turns it kicked then started.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=99FunIbTMqM
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What did you wind up with on the compression ratio..?
Don't let it sit with car gas in it...
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If I remember it is like 7.6:1 CR..... or 7.8:1
Thanks to Scott Casler / Hummel Engines for helping me get the magneto timing close... WOW it shocked me when she started up~!!! I had been messing with it for 3-4 days and totally wore my arm out!!!
This engine is going to be a HOSS!!!
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It sure sounds good, and looks good on that professional test stand... Should be good on low grade mogas...
We have a supplier that does not add the alky... they go by Comfuel.
Southern States also sells non alky mogas around here.
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What magneto are you running on that beast?
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What magneto are you running on that beast?
Slick 2220, the engine is only getting better and better the more i run it, it has about 4 hrs on it now i think.
I'm also thinking of a way to add a starter on the motor, I have a couple of ideas. anyone else add one already in this setup?
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Did you do anything about the lag setting? Ive heard of kickback when starting with a stock 2220
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Did you do anything about the lag setting? Ive heard of kickback when starting with a stock 2220
The kickback is not really bad, just once in a while if not thrown through fully.
it is set about 10° BTDC.
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Can someone post a picture of the wing end spars it is unclear nif you use a 1/12" wide filler block or two 1/4" pieces, the plans just show two lines with the 1-1/2" dimension. and the supplemental plans shows nothing for this.
I am using the Highmax paper plans as a guide since the Legal Eagle Wing was derived from them. It shows two 1/4" wide strips.
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I think you had a question on the wing? what was that again>? Looks like it spun into engine comments?
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the spar wing tip, how is is actually constructed, I have the caps tapered enough how i want them no more, but the fillers are they how i have them or is it a solid 1-1/2" wide piece.
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The way you have them is correct.
Looking good Joe
One more thing, I can't tell from the photo if the vertical pieces are 1/2" wide at splice joint of plywood spar face. All others are 1/4" wide
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The way you have them is correct.
Looking good Joe
One more thing, I can't tell from the photo if the vertical pieces are 1/2" wide at splice joint of plywood spar face. All others are 1/4" wide
I have not put them in yet, I was thinking about waiting until I place the spar ply Sporting the splice temporary as the epoxy dries, then place the perminate piece centered on the splice I may use a wider piece like 1" just to make sure of a very strong bond. The whole spar will be done with T88, for the ribs I used Tightbond III.
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Any update on this build?
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Well its time to get back on the Legal Eagle build, i did not know its been so long.
Working on the front spars and was wanted a second opinion on the spar ply splicing, in thinking of just adding an extra ply the full size of the pocket as shown in the photo.
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If you have the 3/4" intercostals on the joints, you don't need the big slabs of splice material.
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I put in the missing vertical piece with gussets at the rear of the ribs that were acidently left off of Scotts drawings but are shown in the plans, and I also got the front spars done, with the lighten holes.
Now onto the rear spars and finally get to assemble the wings.
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Ok Joe, I just left another thread in the forum and I'm sure people will be curious about the uncovered weight of your completed wing. So, if you would, please let us know how much it weights. And of course, pictures !
Bob
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I got the first rear spar cut and ready to glue, I think i am not going to worry about tapering the ends.
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Used a planner to make the slant towards the front on the top of the front spars to mate to the nose ribs.
The first pictures you can see the line i needed to plane at an angle to.
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Pulling staples from rear spars now, many many staples... not the fun part of the build.
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Made my a few of my own push-rod threaded end pieces on the lathe.
The one on the left is store bought from aircraft spruce, the one on the right, slightly longer are mine.
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Floorboard done.