Eagler's Nest
Airframes => Single Seaters => LE => Topic started by: 914pete on December 15, 2015, 11:16:13 AM
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I even received a nice note from Leonard, apparently the address was wrong and they were sent back to him. He was kind enough to send them again with a full rib plan!
I have to say, I'm a little concerned how simple and hand drawn the plans are. I've started building a table and have been reviewing the plans to lay out the fuselage and right off the bat I'm not 100% sure how wide the fuselage is at station #3. I expected to see a longeron spacing measurement at station #3 on page 8 "bottom view". I see on page 10 "top view" a noted measurement of 19.5" "center to center". Is that the width between the parallel longerons between stations 2 and 3? And I'm unsure what he means by "center to center".
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Yes, 19.5" Center to center.... How much more simple is that??
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914pete,
There is a useful series of short videos on YouTube posted by one of the builders on how to assemble the fuselage. (Follow the link here: Legal Eagle Build (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BVz4cbpICks&list=PLQT4XlxfVbaDguV5vSA2krygiDQQJXO5T)) I suggest watching them all.
A lot of the question you might have will be answered. Even if you don't use his methods exactly, you will certainly develop a sense of how you can best approach the build using your experience and skill set.
Good luck. And don't worry, before this is over you will become very familiar with those hand drawn sketches.
Vince
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I will second what Vince said about the video's. They won't hurt a thing to watch, you will learn much, and the rewards great.
Please note, and this is probably covered in the video's But Center to Center is used for all plans concerning tubes. As it could be tubes of various sizes, if outside to outside, you would be constantly calculating the diameters of tube widths. Center to center does all that work for you..
You have entered an excellent trail of learning and skill building.
Scott
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And I'm unsure what he means by "center to center".
Here are the videos you want to watch first... They will probably answer 99 and 44/100 of your questions.
This link has them sorted in the correct numeric order. You may want to create a shortcut on your desktop with the URL ...
https://www.youtube.com/user/LeagleEagleAirplane/videos?view=0&sort=da&flow=list (https://www.youtube.com/user/LeagleEagleAirplane/videos?view=0&sort=da&flow=list)
P.S.
You may want to put this guy on your Christmas card list... At least give him a shout and show your appreciation.
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Thanks for the replies. So we can confirm station #3 measurement is 19.5" wide to the centers of both lower longerons. That's a pretty critical measurement, just wanted to be sure. Dan, thanks for the link. I started watching the videos. He packs a lot of great tips in a short period of time!
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Hi
Just want to clarify that you understand that " center to center " means: from center of tube to center of the other tube.
Scott J.
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Hi
Just want to clarify that you understand that " center to center " means: from center of tube to center of the other tube.
Scott J.
Hi Scott. Yes, got it. Thanks!
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Hello. I'm the fella that shot those videos. Don't get too shook up about the drawings, they are just fine and everything works out. If you're getting frustrated just have a beer and re focus. Yes, they are hand drawn, but that's irrelevant. Lots of these flying, you'll be just fine.
Mike
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Hey Mike,
are you still building and doing videos? or has life moved in a different direction. I am building a DE and have Zero welding experience. Your vids are great. I kind hope you do more of them as it really help me understand the construction better
regards Paul
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Hey Mike,
are you still building and doing videos? or has life moved in a different direction. I am building a DE and have Zero welding experience. Your vids are great. I kind hope you do more of them as it really help me understand the construction better
regards Paul
Absolutely, it's just not a priority compared to other things like my family and my plumbing business. This year I built a new shop / retail center so it consumed most of my time. That's just about settled so I'll be building again shortly.
As far as welding is concerned.....
Remember, your job as a welder is to manage heat. That's it. That's your focus. If you feed filler rod in slowly heat rises. Feed it quickly heat sinks. Welding is HEAT MANAGEMENT. Period! So as you practice your beginning skills keep your mind focused on heat management, watch as the heat changes and learn from that.
Second. When you feel your ready to weld the actual parts it's smart to have 2 - 6" scrap pieces right next to your location so you can practice quick and adjust your brain then immediately after the practice piece is welded just keep that flame lit and jump right in to the real airplane part. Otherwise what happens is you go to weld the real part and your starting fresh with no "warm up" exercise to get you in the groove. Try and think in those terms because unless you weld every day it takes a little bit to get warmed up.
Mike
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Hey Mike,
Your vids are great. I kind hope you do more of them as it really help me understand the construction better
regards Paul
Welding is HEAT MANAGEMENT. Period! So as you practice your beginning skills keep your mind focused on heat management, watch as the heat changes and learn from that.
Mike
And when you see the puddle is getting too hot...
Stop right where you are, raise the torch enough to let things cool some but keep the rod and the puddle in the outer flame zone, so they will be protected from oxidation.
Decide if you need to go faster or adjust the heat. If the bead is getting wider, go faster.
You will usually see the puddle start to cave in just before you burn through. :emoji_u1f624:
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Hello. I'm the fella that shot those videos. Don't get too shook up about the drawings, they are just fine and everything works out. If you're getting frustrated just have a beer and re focus. Yes, they are hand drawn, but that's irrelevant. Lots of these flying, you'll be just fine.
Mike
Hi Mike, I'm still sourcing tube (I can't stomach the $160 shipping charge from Aircraft Spruce) but once I get it and start laying it out I'm hoping the process becomes clearer. BTW, your vids are invaluable. Really, thank you so much for taking the time. I followed your lead on using the wood ibeams for my work table. I got two 16" x 12 footers (2x4 caps) for $18 total cost. Returns they were happy to give me a good deal on. I even went as far as looking at the prefab wood saw horses HD carries but not only were they poorly constructed (flimsy) they were going to be too high. I ended up using four 16" cinder blocks which worked great. All four were equal in size/height, they provide sturdy as hell footings and only cost $6. I had the table assembled and leveled in about an hour. Wicked solid!
Quick question: I was watching your vid last night where you were very critical about bending the tubing. I know everyone seems to bend the tail section up at station 3 but do you also bend the lower longerons in to station 2 then up and in to the fire wall? Or are the longerons cut and welded at 3 and 2? I'm trying to figure out if I need to get full length tubing for the longerons. If bending at these two stations is acceptable then I will go with full length.
Sorry, one more question: You being a plumber might know this (again I don't have the tube yet) I plan on tack welding with my mig then teaching myself gas welding to finish weld the fuselage when I get to that point. Does a hand held MAPP gas torch get hot enough to bend 4130?
Pete
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Hello. I'm the fella that shot those videos. Don't get too shook up about the drawings, they are just fine and everything works out. If you're getting frustrated just have a beer and re focus. Yes, they are hand drawn, but that's irrelevant. Lots of these flying, you'll be just fine.
Mike
Hi Mike, I'm still sourcing tube (I can't stomach the $160 shipping charge from Aircraft Spruce) but once I get it and start laying it out I'm hoping the process becomes clearer. BTW, your vids are invaluable. Really, thank you so much for taking the time. I followed your lead on using the wood ibeams for my work table. I got two 16" x 12 footers (2x4 caps) for $18 total cost. Returns they were happy to give me a good deal on. I even went as far as looking at the prefab wood saw horses HD carries but not only were they poorly constructed (flimsy) they were going to be too high. I ended up using four 16" cinder blocks which worked great. All four were equal in size/height, they provide sturdy as hell footings and only cost $6. I had the table assembled and leveled in about an hour. Wicked solid!
Quick question: I was watching your vid last night where you were very critical about bending the tubing. I know everyone seems to bend the tail section up at station 3 but do you also bend the lower longerons in to station 2 then up and in to the fire wall? Or are the longerons cut and welded at 3 and 2? I'm trying to figure out if I need to get full length tubing for the longerons. If bending at these two stations is acceptable then I will go with full length.
Sorry, one more question: You being a plumber might know this (again I don't have the tube yet) I plan on tack welding with my mig then teaching myself gas welding to finish weld the fuselage when I get to that point. Does a hand held MAPP gas torch get hot enough to bend 4130?
Pete
I think when you start actually working on it you'll realize it's much easier than you thought.
Full length tubing for sure.
Bending is a piece of cake but a plumbers torch just doesn't do it well enough.
Ask as many questions as you'd like.
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FYI: I heat and bend the tube with a welding tip not a torch.
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FYI: I heat and bend the tube with a welding tip not a torch.
914Pete,
You do know that "heating the tubes" to bend, is more than just putting heat on them? I presume so, but not sure. By using the welding torch (the same one your going to gas weld your frame with) you can get these areas to proper color for bending. Not just warmed up.
And while it may already be answered, Yes- you can bend up and in to fire wall, and basically the same on the aft section, up and in to tail post.
Best of success
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FYI: I heat and bend the tube with a welding tip not a torch.
914Pete,
You do know that "heating the tubes" to bend, is more than just putting heat on them? I presume so, but not sure. By using the welding torch (the same one your going to gas weld your frame with) you can get these areas to proper color for bending. Not just warmed up.
And while it may already be answered, Yes- you can bend up and in to fire wall, and basically the same on the aft section, up and in to tail post.
Best of success
Hi Scott, yes, although I have no experience, I assumed you have to get the 4130 glowing to bend it. I do all my home pipe sweating with a MAPP gas torch and was wondering if it could get 4130 to the right "color" to bend it properly. I don't have the tubing yet to try it and I have yet to invest in a Oxy/Acetylene welding kit. I guess I'll wait until I get the tubing and try it. Thanks! Pete
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I have yet to invest in a Oxy/Acetylene welding kit. I guess I'll wait until I get the tubing and try it. Thanks! Pete
I did my bending with a propane plumbers torch. I don't know if propane is hotter than mapp gas or not. It dint seem to take a whole whole lot of heat...
Grab up the tube and start it toward the way it needs to go and when it balks, start applying heat.
You will feel it relax and start bending.
Play the heat over a larger area than the bend and don't heat the inside as much as the outside.
Don't try to do it all at once or be in a hurry.
Start bending, when it gets harder to move --add heat... Repeat until you get there. Only add as much heat as it takes to keep it bending.
Leonard says if the inside of the bend folds over, just weld it.
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I have yet to invest in a Oxy/Acetylene welding kit. I guess I'll wait until I get the tubing and try it. Thanks! Pete
I did my bending with a propane plumbers torch. I don't know if propane is hotter than mapp gas or not. It dint seem to take a whole whole lot of heat...
Grab up the tube and start it toward the way it needs to go and when it balks, start applying heat.
You will feel it relax and start bending.
Play the heat over a larger area than the bend and don't heat the inside as much as the outside.
Don't try to do it all at once or be in a hurry.
Start bending, when it gets harder to move --add heat... Repeat until you get there. Only add as much heat as it takes to keep it bending.
Leonard says If the inside of the bend folds over, just weld it.
Thanks for the info Dan. I believe the MAPP gas torch is a lot hotter then the blue can propane torches. Roughly 1200F hotter. Just curious to know if what I already have will work. I need to spread out the new tool expenses a bit but am eager to get started with the build.
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@914 Pete
Where do you live? Would you like to borrow my Meco torch?
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I use MAPP gas daily and I'm sure it's fine. It just doesn't make sense because without a welder your not doing welding. I bend with a welding torch because I have it out already, just throttle down the Oxy.
I have a couple Victor torches and a set of hoses I never use that you could use. I also have a Meco with ultralight hoses you can borrow.
Mike
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I use MAPP gas daily and I'm sure it's fine. It just doesn't make sense because without a welder your not doing welding. I bend with a welding torch because I have it out already, just throttle down the Oxy.
I have a couple Victor torches and a set of hoses I never use that you could use. I also have a Meco with ultralight hoses you can borrow.
Mike
Mike, that would be a huge help. I'm in NJ. If you could box them I can give you my UPS account # or just create UPS labels and email them to you. I also have a Fedex account if that is more convenient. Once labeled, if its not too inconvenient, you could just drop it at a UPS store.
Pete
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I use MAPP gas daily and I'm sure it's fine. It just doesn't make sense because without a welder your not doing welding. I bend with a welding torch because I have it out already, just throttle down the Oxy.
I have a couple Victor torches and a set of hoses I never use that you could use. I also have a Meco with ultralight hoses you can borrow.
Mike
Mike, that would be a huge help. I'm in NJ. If you could box them I can give you my UPS account # or just create UPS labels and email them to you. I also have a Fedex account if that is more convenient. Once labeled, if its not too inconvenient, you could just drop it at a UPS store.
Pete
Do you have tanks?
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I use MAPP gas daily and I'm sure it's fine. It just doesn't make sense because without a welder your not doing welding. I bend with a welding torch because I have it out already, just throttle down the Oxy.
I have a couple Victor torches and a set of hoses I never use that you could use. I also have a Meco with ultralight hoses you can borrow.
Mike
Mike, that would be a huge help. I'm in NJ. If you could box them I can give you my UPS account # or just create UPS labels and email them to you. I also have a Fedex account if that is more convenient. Once labeled, if its not too inconvenient, you could just drop it at a UPS store.
Pete
Do you have tanks?
I'm going to rent them from the gas supply where I buy C25 for my mig. They require $200 security deposit for each tank. Ridiculous.
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I'm going to rent them from the gas supply where I buy C25 for my mig. They require $200 security deposit for each tank. Ridiculous.
I am not sure how ridiculous this is, for if you consider what the tanks cost them, why would they risk loosing them forever for less than what it cost them to purchase new ones. I do the same thing, if someone wants to borrow, I simply "sell them" with a offered buy back price. Now that price can be the same or perhaps less - say 90% but the 1st price is always what I think I could get on a auction or at least what I think I could re-buy the tool for.
Lots of things-especially books never come back. Without the agreement, often friends are lost too. With the agreement, money in hand, a new "anything" to the lender can always happen.
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Hey Mike thanks for the reply, good to see you are still around. I appreciated where you are coming from as I am in the same boat. My project is taking longer than I want but when you have a business to attend to.... you get it.
Appreciate your tips and I will be ensuring I weld a lot of scraps before i take the project. I have started to re qatch you vids again to get my head more around it.
thanks again
regards Paul
Hey Mike,
are you still building and doing videos? or has life moved in a different direction. I am building a DE and have Zero welding experience. Your vids are great. I kind hope you do more of them as it really help me understand the construction better
regards Paul
Absolutely, it's just not a priority compared to other things like my family and my plumbing business. This year I built a new shop / retail center so it consumed most of my time. That's just about settled so I'll be building again shortly.
As far as welding is concerned.....
Remember, your job as a welder is to manage heat. That's it. That's your focus. If you feed filler rod in slowly heat rises. Feed it quickly heat sinks. Welding is HEAT MANAGEMENT. Period! So as you practice your beginning skills keep your mind focused on heat management, watch as the heat changes and learn from that.
Second. When you feel your ready to weld the actual parts it's smart to have 2 - 6" scrap pieces right next to your location so you can practice quick and adjust your brain then immediately after the practice piece is welded just keep that flame lit and jump right in to the real airplane part. Otherwise what happens is you go to weld the real part and your starting fresh with no "warm up" exercise to get you in the groove. Try and think in those terms because unless you weld every day it takes a little bit to get warmed up.
Mike
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I'm going to rent them from the gas supply where I buy C25 for my mig. They require $200 security deposit for each tank. Ridiculous.
I am not sure how ridiculous this is, for if you consider what the tanks cost them, why would they risk loosing them forever for less than what it cost them to purchase new ones. I do the same thing, if someone wants to borrow, I simply "sell them" with a offered buy back price. Now that price can be the same or perhaps less - say 90% but the 1st price is always what I think I could get on a auction or at least what I think I could re-buy the tool for.
Lots of things-especially books never come back. Without the agreement, often friends are lost too. With the agreement, money in hand, a new "anything" to the lender can always happen.
Your right Scott. I guess there are unscrupulous people out there. I will research buying them as well.