Eagler's Nest
Airframes => Single Seaters => XL => Topic started by: Davidleefly101 on April 30, 2017, 08:33:01 AM
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trying to figure out whether or not Titebond 3 can be used to glue the ribs together.
I'm not trusting my mixing of the T-88.
and the T-88 is haed to work with.
it appears to me in the videos i've looked at titebond is being used.
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I typed titebond into the search box... found this.
https://www.eaglersnest.com/forum/index.php?topic=475 (https://www.eaglersnest.com/forum/index.php?topic=475)
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Could you describe what trouble you are having with the T-88 ?
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I did all my ribs in Titebond III, with no problem.
cheers Paul
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I used Titebond III for all my ribs, leading edges and trailing edges, only place T88 was used was in building the spars and attaching ribs to spar. I know of other Eagles that only used Titebond III thru out. Leonard in the original Legal Eagle used Titebond II throughout.
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watch the EAA video on glues very enlightening???
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watch the EAA video on glues very enlightening???
This one?
http://eaavideo.org/video.aspx?v=1485316095 (http://eaavideo.org/video.aspx?v=1485316095)
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I HATE EPOXY, Tbond for me thoughout.
sigh... I like to clean-up with wet rag, i have two totes of clamps, i have read about over clamping with expoy. Welding now anyway, well getting started coping and notching(seeing what works. tons of fun yet with yardwork and golf that all ends late Oct.
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I am the same as Les - Titebond for ribs and - anywhere with gussets and only used T88 for final assembly of ribs to spars
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Pick your poison and go! Just remember TiteBondIII needs firm clamping pressure between glued members for a strong joint. T-88 does not need a lot of pressure, you don't wan't to squeeze the epoxy out of the joint. The TiteBondIII ribs may be a little lighter than T-88, but I used T-88 for all my wood joints. Mixed it by weight and had zero problems.
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I hate epoxy too.. comma but.. it is very tolerant of less than perfect fit and clamp pressure.
I glued the caps on the spars with it because I experimented and could only leave a joint unclamped for 15 minutes with Titebond. I did a dry run, and was too close on time for comfort.
Since I had already started with T88, I finished the spars and glued the ribs on them with it.
Yuck. :))
I see Kamcoman posted while I was typing. Yeah to what he said.
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This one?
http://eaavideo.org/video.aspx?v=1485316095 (http://eaavideo.org/video.aspx?v=1485316095)
https://www.eaa.org/videos/1485316095 (https://www.eaa.org/videos/1485316095)
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Of course, epoxy is stronger than Titebond, but I've never had a wood joint fail at the joint in nearly 40 years of woodworking. It fails the wood before it fails the glue, so in the end the glue isn't the week point anyway.
Having said that, Titebond III, though slightly less strong (and still way strong enough), is also waterproof, and as noted cleans up with water. That should be plenty good for the ribs. If it's a main load path with high local loads, then epoxy would likely be preferable, but even then, probably not mandatory as long as there's enough strength that the bond-line is not the weak point it should be fine.