Eagler's Nest
Airframes => Single Seaters => Topic started by: gwjames on January 31, 2020, 01:08:30 PM
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I have the downloaded xl plans and am the process of building the rib jig. My downloaded plans printed out in their original form very small, about 1/4 page. I printed the ones for the the rib and made new copies of them at +210% and got what appears to be very close to the correct size. My measurements are 7 1/8 high at the front spar 7 7/8 at the thickest point and 46 3/4 overall length. I am curious as to what some of you have determined the measurements should be.
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I just got the Iron Design full size plans with wing details. Having built the wings, the full size rib plan and the change in building the aileron well was well worth it. That said....those dimensions are quite close!
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What I determined when doing mine is the front of the rib should be 1/16" taller than your spar height so when the leading edge plywood(0.8mm x 2) is wrapped over the spar it is even with the rib. The black and white bars on the nose rib drawing represent 1". I had to scale mine down to 95 or 96% to get that right. I printed all sheets to that scaling and spaced them to try and get to overall cord length specified which left some gaps between a few sheets that had to be interpolated. Also check that your rear spar will fit where it is supposed to go and that the aileron dimensions look like they match up. Then spend about a week remeasuring and second guessing yourself! Oh, and the spar spacing needs to match the fuselage wing attach dimensions.
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Based on my CAD drawings I used to make mine with...
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EthanP- it all kinda comes out in the end anyway because you have to bevel the top of the front spar before assembly anyway and when you do you can match the height to the dimension of the ribs you have made as desired. Then when you make the nose ribs you can tailor them to the spar height as well. I doubt if any two Legal Eagles are actually the same in any area but we're talking about extremely small differences between plans and actual dimensions. Just think a lot, cut a little and make parts in sequence of assembly and you'll be fine.
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Your exactly right, the more you think ahead and review the plans you'll find the numbers you want to shoot for and if its off a little adjustments can be made.
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The spar spacing needs to match the correct wing rib drawing. The wing mounting brackets are installed on the fuselage to match the wing spar spacing. It is probably a good idea to install the front wing mount bracket to match the fuselage drawing and then add the rear bracket to fit the fittings on your rear spar.
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Thanks to all who responded to my question about the rib dimensions. I can see there are variations between builders, I am working on my rib jig, looking forward to pulling out my first rib. This forum is great, lots of builders willing to step up to help newbies like me, thanks it is much appreciated.
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I have the downloaded xl plans and am the process of building the rib jig. My downloaded plans printed out in their original form very small, about 1/4 page. I printed the ones for the the rib and made new copies of them at +210% and got what appears to be very close to the correct size. My measurements are 7 1/8 high at the front spar 7 7/8 at the thickest point and 46 3/4 overall length. I am curious as to what some of you have determined the measurements should be.
For a 200 mph wing, we would worry about some dimension differences, for this wing, probably all are within tolerances that might not even be able to be measured.
Much of this would also depend on exactly where your starting and stopping with your measurements. These alone could be a difference of .250"
That being said,
I have 46.227" from aft of the front spar to the aft edge of the wing rib
from nose tip to above aft edge 54.213"
max height if bottom of wing is dead level, 7.716"
of course rounding the above to one decimal is No problem. Results may vary, a few have mentioned that building so that the nose rib, spar and rear (center section) all flow nicely is the real key. I agree.
Best of success
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Yes, I did the same thing and downloaded the plans for the Legal Eagle, but couldn't find the rib dimensions. I emailed Leonard and he said I need to send ten dollars more for the full size rib drawings. I'll probably do that, but Dang!.
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Get the supplements from iron design - then you get a lot more drawings along with the rib drawing - IMO anyway :)
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I think you should get the rib drawings from Leonard. If you want supplemental drawings from Iron Designs or anywhere else they should be "supplemental" to what Leonard offers, and that is fine. Please do not try to bypass the original designer of any plane you build. They put in the time to design the airplane and have earned the support of purchasing the plans and drawings from them.
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I think you should get the rib drawings from Leonard. If you want supplemental drawings from Iron Designs or anywhere else they should be "supplemental" to what Leonard offers, and that is fine. Please do not try to bypass the original designer of any plane you build. They put in the time to design the airplane and have earned the support of purchasing the plans and drawings from them.
Yes, the supplemental plans were ALWAYS intended to help with the build, save time and know exactly how things are going to look when done. To this "result" I think they have done well. You would not be able to build the entire plane from the supplemental plans.
To my knowledge, every set has gone to someone that has already bought a complete set of plans from the Legal Eagle crew. And that is the way it should be for best results.
Best of success.
Scott
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Thanks Scott, I know that was always your intention. I just wanted to remind others to always support the original designer first, then get supplemental information from other sources. While I have not used your drawings myself, I do look at what you post and think they are a great resource for many building these planes. Keep doing what you do.
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I think you should get the rib drawings from Leonard. If you want supplemental drawings from Iron Designs or anywhere else they should be "supplemental" to what Leonard offers, and that is fine. Please do not try to bypass the original designer of any plane you build. They put in the time to design the airplane and have earned the support of purchasing the plans and drawings from them.
Yes, I never intended for builder NOT to have original plans! Just as an 'addon' to full plans the Supplementals are nice.
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Based on my CAD drawings I used to make mine with...
Hmmm. I downloaded your .dxf files thinking I could directly make templates on my cnc mill and cut the parts with my shiny new :) router.
Just for a reality check, I measured the rib.. and.. uh oh. What's going on here?
(https://static.imgzeit.com/reduced/2d3228e216055dae/IMG_20200310_131545093.jpg)
I had noticed that one of the files for gusset layout gave crazy numbers, but thought that was just a .dxf conversion error.
At least I hadn't started to cut aluminum yet..
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Hmmm. I downloaded your .dxf files thinking I could directly make templates on my cnc mill and cut the parts with my shiny new :) router.
Just for a reality check, I measured the rib.. and.. uh oh. What's going on here?
(https://static.imgzeit.com/reduced/2d3228e216055dae/IMG_20200310_131545093.jpg)
I had noticed that one of the files for gusset layout gave crazy numbers, but thought that was just a .dxf conversion error.
At least I hadn't started to cut aluminum yet..
I am guessing this process is far from what you were thinking "this download and start cutting" ANY CNC router will only cut what you tell it to cut, only go where you tell it to go, even only cut inside or outside of a shape because you told it so. And of course verify scale. so many things...but absolutely needs to be done, to have it done right.
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Thanks for the reply, Scott. I've had a cnc mill since the mid 80s, and have run thousands of parts from .dxf files. I've never had one that wasn't the PART. When I saw these files in the download area, I thought it would save me quite a bit of time drawing.. and I could get a head start with some aircraft ply I have on hand.
I'll wait until your drawings show up at my door :) and make my templates from them.
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Thanks for the reply, Scott. I've had a cnc mill since the mid 80s, and have run thousands of parts from .dxf files. I've never had one that wasn't the PART. When I saw these files in the download area, I thought it would save me quite a bit of time drawing.. and I could get a head start with some aircraft ply I have on hand.
I'll wait until your drawings show up at my door :) and make my templates from them.
Thanks Chuck.
In the mean time, I will do a extremely short course on how I teach "What to do with a complete .dxf drawing, for creation of single parts"
This only pertains to those with software that can can work with .dxf files .
- Load up the big .dxf file and scale it to exactly what you want
- Name it MASTER xxx (what ever it is)
- Reload this above named file or if you already have it in front of you, do a "save as copy" then ONLY open that. (might be best to close the master first few times)
- With the newly saved copy, a new name should only be the part of it that you want (lets say the nose rib) in the case Master xxx Nose rib.
- Now anything you do in or with step 4, will only effect that part... so in this case, delete everything that is not the nose rib and save.
- Go back to the Master xxx, and do another "save as copy" with another distinct name for that part. And from here on, only work with that newly save file. Lets say K block is the new name.
- Now get delete everything that is not the K block and save.
- Do this with every single part of Master file. (if there is 10 parts, you will do 10 times)
What does this do for you? Several key items.
- You always work from the exact same Master, with overall dimensions, NO REDRAWING
- if the first part is correct, all the rest should be correct ( keeps you from doing a change by accident in redrawing)
- this is entirely dependent on the master part file, but will save you HUGE hours on redrawing things and errors
- YOU have to keep in mind, the Master is key, it has to be correct. From there, everything falls into place.
Best of success. :)