Eagler's Nest
General Category => Builders logs => Chuck's XL in Indiana => Topic started by: Chuck in Indiana on April 07, 2020, 12:58:35 PM
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While waiting for John to send me the materials kit, I've started getting ready.
Built some pretty accurate saw horses, and a 32"X14' bench.It's flat and level.
(https://static.imgzeit.com/reduced/415f934b154baf92/IMG_20200407_140350458.jpg)
Made a rib jig..
(https://static.imgzeit.com/reduced/3d5367b641b3d535/IMG_20200407_140306623(1).jpg)
the cams were cut from an antique wooden curtain rod, and appear to work very well. The cap strip is some I've had laying around for years. I'll use it as masters to make the real ones.
The next project will be figuring out how to make the gussets and a way to clamp them down, if possible. Is there a list somewhere that lists how many of each are needed?
Gave the cams a coat of varnish, and called it a day.
(https://static.imgzeit.com/reduced/84625fab42f310fa/IMG_20200407_141509930.jpg)
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I'll try and find the number for each gusset, but I'm not sure if I have it written down. One tip, cut the bottom wood strip on your rib jig to leave a gap where each vertical or diagonal meets the bottom capstrip. My rib jig was like yours until my first rib. I got too much glue oozing out of the joints and glued my capstrip to my jig base. It appears you are using the Iron Design rib plan from the shape of the gusset outlines. Is that correct? The clothespins in the photo were used so I could glue a complete rib with all gussets in one sitting.
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I'll try and find the number for each gusset, but I'm not sure if I have it written down. One tip, cut the bottom wood strip on your rib jig to leave a gap where each vertical or diagonal meets the bottom capstrip. My rib jig was like yours until my first rib. I got too much glue oozing out of the joints and glued my capstrip to my jig base. It appears you are using the Iron Design rib plan from the shape of the gusset outlines. Is that correct? The clothespins in the photo were used so I could glue a complete rib with all gussets in one sitting.
Thanks for that. I've never had a problem with glue sticking to the jig after varnishing it and giving it a good coat of paste wax, though.
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Here is a video I enjoyed very much from Les Homan.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YuXwGg_9czY
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Thanks for that. Pretty much what I was thinking of. Ordered a handful of 3/16 carriage bolts and flanged wingnuts from McMaster Carr Aircraft supply. I have a sheet of 5/16" delrin (I have *lots* :) of delrin) to use as pressure plates. No worries about glue sticking to that..
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Took a break and did some social distancing. :)
(https://static.imgzeit.com/reduced/925dada407e3ab41/IMG_20200408_134437602.jpg)
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Router template and a "for instance" part made out of some aircraft plywood that has been laying around for well over 20 years. :o Time flies..
(https://static.imgzeit.com/reduced/0035541fc8f5b2ac/IMG_20200420_141407603_HDR.jpg)
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Chuck,
Here is my "Social Distancing" machine.
A relative of yours but not so nice looking!
However, she is good on bones and heart (O320 A2B - 150 hp)and dearly loved by all in the family. Me specially...
Building a DE. 20 ribs done. Changed wing section to GA30A418 (H. Riblett)and will stretch fuse by 3 feet to compensate for nose heaviness as reported by some.
Cheers,
Miguel Azevedo (NW GA)
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In the spirit of "doing something every day.." I've finished all the router templates, and today finished the scarfing jig. I made it of stuff I had laying around, of course. :grin:
(https://static.imgzeit.com/reduced/63610420b35efbc5/IMG_20200502_132727669.jpg)
Cut some scrap 1/8" aircraft plywood.
(https://static.imgzeit.com/reduced/30abb09f41e117f1/IMG_20200503_130138227.jpg)
Close enough. I'm about out of things to do until material gets here.
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Yay.. one airplane.
Some assembly required.
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Now, I can finally get started.
(https://static.imgzeit.com/reduced/34118358af0cfe89/IMG_20200520_165053023.jpg)
but first.. yesterday was Mouser's 38th (!!) birthday, so we had to do a birthday flight.
(https://static.imgzeit.com/reduced/9db65aeaa4dc594e/IMG_20200527_141802829.jpg)
As I was taxiing to the other end of the runway, I noticed my mouth getting dry.. and thought, "what's up with this?" Then, realized it was a Pavlovian response. Back in the day, on the first flight of the season Mouser used to say, "Are you bringing your A game, boy?" :)) Now, after all those years, she's as familiar as an old shoe.
I've read the Legal Eagle is a *good* flying airplane.. but it has big shoes to fill. ;)
Made a sacrificial fence for the new saw to cut the quarter inch square stuff.
(https://static.imgzeit.com/reduced/688a5a8a41e8a54d/IMG_20200527_181657082.jpg)
Ran out and bought a new paper cutter.
(https://static.imgzeit.com/reduced/c4c8b4408a67f6c3/IMG_20200528_112516076.jpg)
The adjustable parallel and angle plate make easy work of accurate cuts. The plan is to make "some" of all the gussets. Did that yesterday. Today, I'll cut all the quarter square pieces, and hopefully tomorrow start building ribs.
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Well, that didn't take long.. :)
(https://static.imgzeit.com/reduced/fa02b90bd1e15784/IMG_20200530_102840108.jpg)
(https://static.imgzeit.com/reduced/9a37d60c588cd5f0/IMG_20200530_112103906.jpg)
Now, there is a sincere and monumental amount of sanding to do. I bought an oscillating tool. Is there a better way?
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If there's a better way to sand, I never figured it out. I liked the ocillating sander a lot. Just had to be careful not to over-do it with that thing! Also, no matter how much you don't feel like it, you'll thank yourself later if you sand the finished ribs and various wing components BEFORE assembling the wing. It is so much harder to do once put together.
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Thanks for that. Oh, yeah.. I was just looking at the sticks and trying to figure out a better way to sand them before assembly. Also, birch ply "needs" to be sanded for glue adhesion is stuck into my failing memory. Mahogany, not so much. I'll sand the *next* batch of plywood before cutting them out. ::)
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First rib in the jig. Tomorrow morning, I'll see if I glued it to the jig. :o
I put two coats of spar varnish and two coats of paste wax on it.
(https://static.imgzeit.com/reduced/160b020a51590085/IMG_20200531_101747594.jpg)
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I never sanded the Birch plywood, and when it came time to remove a few gussets I can attest that they were STUCK! Only way to remove them was with a router or sand them off. ::)
That being said......... Just don't glue them on where they'll have to be taken off! I found it easier to designate each rib a position on the wing and build it accordingly. Some need partial gussets, like where the compression strips and mounting hardware go. Some have plywood attached where a gusset would normally go. Think about each rib being built and save some trouble.
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Thanks, I've been looking at that. I think there are only 4 "normal" ribs on each wing. I've used most aircraft glues except resorcinol.. and was a little skeptical about the titebond III. I've been using T88 since the 90s..but..I hate it. It's messy and wasteful. At any rate, I tested the Titebond III. First, no sanding, light glue pressure, and 12 hours time. It pulled wood fibers, (the main thing) but I could peel the parts apart. Next was the same with 24 hours drying time. Same scenario. I realize that the gussets are loaded in shear, and would have been fine.
The last test was with both the spruce and the ply sanded, and I destroyed it trying to get it apart. I'll post a picture if the cleaning lady :)) hasn't pitched them.
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Here is a Word file containing some notes I wrote on rib building for a friend. They are based on using the IronDesign LLC wing ribs. There may be some errors, but it helped my friend when he was planning each rib build.
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Thanks, Keith.. that's awesome.
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:emoji_u1f601: :emoji_u1f601:
Pulled off the Delrin pressure plates this morning.. the glue stuck to them a little. Thought, "Uh oh." Had my tack puller at the ready in case I'd glued it to the jig, but it just lifted out. Note to self.. paste wax on the Delrin, too.
(https://static.imgzeit.com/reduced/2d989926115d860b/IMG_20200601_075358287.jpg)
I found my glue test pieces. The first is no sanding, 12 hours drying time. The second is the same with 24 hours drying time. What I did was put the cap strip in the vise, hold the plywood with duckbills, and try to peel the ply off. I got it done with both, but they pulled wood fibers.. the acid test.
The one on the right was with sanded cap strip and plywood. Trying to peel it broke the ply. Took a chisel, lifted up the back, put a square piece of steel against the edge and gave it a few whacks. It's not coming loose. :)
I'm *not* being alarmist here. If you built your ribs without sanding, they'll be fine. I just remembered from where I built a Baby Great Lakes in the 60s that used mahogany gussets that they didn't need to be sanded. It was considered "good practice" to sand birch.
(https://static.imgzeit.com/reduced/cd68f07986476717/IMG_20200601_091401788_HDR.jpg)
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Beautiful rib! You're using T-88, right? That's what I used, (Without sanding), and there was no way to remove them without destroying the wood. Believe me, I tried. But after cutting out 700 of the buggers by hand, the last thing I was gonna do was sand them. :))
Very nice work! Keep us all posted.
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Beautiful rib! You're using T-88, right? That's what I used, (Without sanding), and there was no way to remove them without destroying the wood. Believe me, I tried. But after cutting out 700 of the buggers by hand, the last thing I was gonna do was sand them. :))
Very nice work! Keep us all posted.
Thanks! I'm trying to do as nice a job as you did. ;)
No, I'm using Titebond III. It's by far the easiest I've ever used.. and apparently strong enough.
I started this project for *something to do* during the enforced staycation. I mentioned before, that I'm a machinist.. not a woodworker, so I've been buying woodworking tools for this job. One was this:
https://www.amazon.com/Rockwell-RK5132K-Sonicrafter-Oscillating-Accessories/dp/B01HD4EOTS/ref=pd_rhf_ee_p_img_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=DP02FFHV080V7TVGZ1E1
It makes *really* short work of sanding those gussets.. and.. it gives me something to do. :grin:
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Beautiful rib! Did you decide not to put the last vertical in? IronDesigns did not show it on his drawing but Leonard did. A lot of guys are going back and adding the vertical to make the aileron a little stronger.
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My plans didn't show that last vertical either and I didn't notice until the wing was essentially finished. I posted about it and it was discussed here:
https://www.eaglersnest.com/forum/index.php?topic=2062.0
My fix was to glue a 3/4" wide piece of 1/8" plywood across the cap strips at that location. My non-engineering brain thinks it is of comparable strength and weight.
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Hmmm. I *was* going to build the wing like the Iron design drawing.. but you guys have convinced me to go ahead and put that little piece in there. What's a few more sticks and gussets? :))
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Chuck, my only real concern was that shrinking the fabric in that area might cause it to collapse slightly, however, some in the discussion held that it wouldn't do that either. I was looking for a cheap and easy way to peace of mind that did not include making more gussets to augment the hundreds of thousands it seemed I had already made for 4 wings, and that's why the plywood addition.
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Well my thought was, "I've seen lots of ailerons of that size without it." Just the same, if everyone is putting them in, I will, too.(shrug)
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3 7/8 ounces.
(https://static.imgzeit.com/reduced/da4046410021c698/IMG_20200602_084935489_HDR.jpg)
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Chuck, my only real concern was that shrinking the fabric in that area might cause it to collapse slightly, however, some in the discussion held that it wouldn't do that either. I was looking for a cheap and easy way to peace of mind that did not include making more gussets to augment the hundreds of thousands it seemed I had already made for 4 wings, and that's why the plywood addition.
As the NFL says, "Upon further review.." :) I drug out my Pietenpol drawings, and the last vertical member in Bernie's rib is 11 3/4 from the trailing edge. As far as I know, they don't have a problem.. and are a real speed demon, to boot. :))
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Chuck, tell me about that Sparton radio in the background. Is it original or a repo? If it's original, is it for sale?
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Chuck, tell me about that Sparton radio in the background. Is it original or a repo? If it's original, is it for sale?
It's a repo "Bluebird." Even the repos are getting hard to find any more. :)
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I was at an auction in March where 2 original Bluebirds (one peach), 2 sleds, and a Nocturne were sold. Big bucks!
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Finished up the four "normal" ribs this morning.
Here's a tip. I had some 3/16" scrap engineering plastic in my "good junk" pile. It makes much easier work of all that sanding on the cap strips.Just pull the long ones through while sanding with the oscillating tool. Short ones work well, too. The fixture keeps the caps from moving side to side, and the energy goes into sanding rather than making them vibrate. :grin:
(https://static.imgzeit.com/reduced/460b282e6c3fe417/IMG_20200603_135358363.jpg)
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First of the four root ribs finished this morning. I like the little plastic Harbor Freight clamps for this job..
(https://static.imgzeit.com/reduced/4e640827e2cf981d/IMG_20200606_103220211.jpg)
another nibble off the elephant.
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First of the four root ribs finished this morning. I like the little plastic Harbor Freight clamps for this job..
Well done and clean looking. (no extra weight from squeeze out glue)
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Well done and clean looking. (no extra weight from squeeze out glue)
Thanks. A friend who is a luthier said to put enough glue on to just cover the joint, smooth it out with my finger and clamp it. "You want just enough that it barely squeezes out." He just today said to get some Bulldog clips, and I ordered them from Amazon. *Everything* is sanded before assembly, so there should be a minimal amount of varnish required to seal it. Pretty labor intensive, though.. :))
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As labor intensive as it is, it's worse if you wait to sand until assembled. As you know there's a lot of small, tight places to get to and sand.
After building several ribs I could mix the exact amount of T-88 needed to finish a rib and have none left over and no excess on the rib. I took the little excess from the gusset I was working on and smeared it on the next one. By the time I got to the lat one I had juuuuust enough. Very satisfying for some reason. Also made it easier to estimate how much to mix for anything else. I'd study it and think "That's about 2 ribs worth of glue" and it was usually quite close.
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Oh, yeah.. I couldn't *imagine* being able to do a good job of sanding after everything is assembled. There are way too many nooks and crannies. :)
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https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07D9BHKTY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Here is the last "normal" rib with the bulldog clips. They are just the ticket. I need 10 more, though.
(https://static.imgzeit.com/reduced/48d7f6ca2c2288cd/IMG_20200610_101951007.jpg)
I have the first of the compression ribs in the jig right now.
Sorry Leonard.. making sure those gussets are glued on for life, then "removing gussets as necessary" for installation of the compression members? :o :grin: It makes a lot more sense to make them the right shape to me..
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Getting into the aileron area now. Right wing ribs on the top, left on the bottom.
(https://static.imgzeit.com/reduced/8eb5e2e71f988070/IMG_20200621_164433719.jpg)
Made the aileron parts with templates and trim router.
(https://static.imgzeit.com/reduced/0797d61a6bd4f61b/IMG_20200622_160213775.jpg)
I can say with authority that an N95 makes a fine dust mask.. :)
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Ok, all the "normal" ribs are done. Time to start on number 7. I have the Iron Design plans, and they call out 4 of A1 out of 1/4" ply. Also 4 of the "stiffener" out of 1/8" ply. So, I dutifully made those. :) When I looked at the PDFs and videos, I don't see any A1s at all. (scratching head) and only 2 of 1/8".
So.
It looks like on rib 7, there is a full sized gusset of 1/4", and covered on the other side by a piece of .8mm.
Made an executive decision and some more pieces. Modified the jig to do this. Besides strength, one of the most important parts is to make the rotation point the same in all parts of the aileron assembly. I had already carefully drilled a 3/8" diameter hole on location.
Made a Delrin pin .002" undersized that would be a slip fit into the jig and parts.
(https://static.imgzeit.com/reduced/ea5ff0d08693a746/IMG_20200625_083423728.jpg)
Since I couldn't find any use for the A1 parts I'd made, I cut them up and will fit 2 of them as an extra "filler" to beef up the hinge pin area. laid them in there, put a liberal amount of glue on the K block, cap strips and them, located everything with the Delrin pin..
(https://static.imgzeit.com/reduced/9b0727bce605a57b/IMG_20200625_083355192.jpg)
Clamped everything down with the thumb screws, and pulled the pin. Glue doesn't stick to Delrin well at all, but there's really no need of testing *How* well. :)
(https://static.imgzeit.com/reduced/78ad3417ee31aec1/IMG_20200625_083605659.jpg)
Will this all work out? Hopefully. We'll know in the morning.. stay tuned. :))
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Yeah, that worked. :) I love it when a plan comes together..Rib 7R done, 7L in the jig.
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Ahh, the one I've been looking for.. the 13th and final rib. :) My home made (naturally) welder's third hand helps hold clamp pressure. It took me this much glue to build the 26 ribs. Well, quite a bit of that is on my pants legs..
(https://static.imgzeit.com/reduced/d234faf598cac485/IMG_20200701_084120446.jpg)
Even the hinge blocks were located with Delrin pins,
(https://static.imgzeit.com/reduced/0da0727cffb41857/IMG_20200629_081220510.jpg)
so Shirley :)) everything will line up when I put them on the spars..no trying to keep everything square with a right angle drill, etc. (fingers crossed)
Well, if they don't, I always will have thought they should have. ;)
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Started laying out the spar jig and realized I should have the aluminum fittings so I could drill the spars in the drill press instead of trying to keep everything square after the wings are assembled. So, cut up a stick of aluminum, and made them on the cnc mill.
(https://static.imgzeit.com/reduced/a35df8e44228655d/IMG_20200708_121901713(1).jpg)
Figured while I was at it, I might as well make some more 1/8" aluminum parts..
The rudder horn..
(https://static.imgzeit.com/reduced/c80d7abd539b7952/IMG_20200708_143024536.jpg)
Aileron bellcranks..
(https://static.imgzeit.com/reduced/2b042a24b3ec5de0/IMG_20200708_135036989.jpg)
Parts is parts. :grin:
(https://static.imgzeit.com/reduced/5fc55052c6a443d0/IMG_20200708_143833811.jpg)
Whew! Beer o'clock. :))
Now, I can start on the spars.
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That's even better than a hack saw and file! Nicely done!
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A hacksaw works on the Ouija board principle for me. The more I try to affect it's outcome, the more dismal my future looks. :))
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Left wing spar glued up in the jig. Note to self.. do not make two left wings. :)
(https://static.imgzeit.com/reduced/8dbfc131bf4fdfcd/IMG_20200710_121837407.jpg)
Put packing tape on the jig to keep from gluing the spar to it. Hopefully..
Learned a valuable lesson today. Just because it's plywood, that doesn't mean it is straight. Spent the afternoon waiting for the glue to dry and jumping through hoops getting straight edges on the spar webs.
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I cut my spar webs about 1/4" oversize and centered them as best I could. Then took router and trimmed to match spar. Used 8° wedges on router base to match my 8° bevel on upper front spar caps.
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I cut my spar webs about 1/4" oversize and centered them as best I could. Then took router and trimmed to match spar. Used 8° wedges on router base to match my 8° bevel on upper front spar caps.
Slick...
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I cut my spar webs about 1/4" oversize and centered them as best I could. Then took router and trimmed to match spar. Used 8° wedges on router base to match my 8° bevel on upper front spar caps.
A good idea..but there isn't enough plywood in my "kit" to do that.
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Yeah, no matter how many times you scarf it, it's still too short. ::)
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Wow. I don't know what happened to that picture size. Sorry about that.
(https://static.imgzeit.com/reduced/e7ad8e3f66c573f0/IMG_20200717_153948840.jpg)
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Is that a freq box on top of that welder..?
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Is that a freq box on top of that welder..?
Cooling system for the TIG.
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I've always said "the pros make it look easy".
Thou shall not covet thy brothers welder, or CNC
Right now i have more time than money, when that flips (more money than time left) Fedex will bring these parts...
WTG!
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Thou shall not covet thy brothers welder, or CNC
The flesh is weak... That shop is STRONG.
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I've always said "the pros make it look easy".
Thou shall not covet thy brothers welder, or CNC
Right now i have more time than money, when that flips (more money than time left) Fedex will bring these parts...
WTG!
Several years ago, Dorcia and I had "the talk." "You know how we've been saving all these years for our old age? It's here." :)
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Added a few hour's worth of "lightness." :)
(https://static.imgzeit.com/reduced/c32352613f97951c/IMG_20200719_125006128.jpg)
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How much did the circles weigh? Mine weighed 1-1/2 pounds (front & rear spars).
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The fronts weighed .34 oz. each. Of course, there would be a little more that that removed because of the saw kerf. So .34X34 pieces is 11.56 ounces plus. The rears would be a little lighter, but I didn't weigh them. Sounds like a pound and a half is about right. :)
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I've mentioned before that I'm a machinist, not a woodworker. Every wooden spar I've ever built has been solid wood or solid with routed out places for lightness.
I'm learning as I go on this.. :) fun stuff, of course.
Comma but.
(https://static.imgzeit.com/reduced/45fc13b18b2bdd35/IMG_20200719_154419893.jpg)
I'm ready to glue the spar webs on. What do I use for clamp pressure? I've thought of making a series of clamps as shown (except for screws at each end) at each vertical member and half way between.
I've also thought about heavy plywood with weights stacked on it for clamp pressure.
What is the best thing to do, or am I over thinking this? :)
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They made great aileron "locks" too, for while the wings are stored. I put a 1/4" bolt through two of them with a wing nut, one goes on top and the other on bottom with the bolt in the gaps at the aileron ends. I put one unit on each end of the aileron and no dinging up the ailerons while handling. (Also fit perfectly in the "lawyered" seat switch on my lawn mower to hold it down. Now I can raise up in the seat without the motor quitting) Nothing goes to waste!
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Hmmm. I think I'll call this one "Bullet." :)
(https://static.imgzeit.com/reduced/bf5cfde5ea43c5d6/IMG_20200720_131501990.jpg)
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Use "Bullitt", that way you can be as cool as Steve McQueen! (Man, do I feel old!) Always cool to see what people come up with for weights, clamps, jigs, etc.
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A fellow loader! My kind a citizen.
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Just an update and a couple of "gotchas." :) On the strut fittings, Leonard gives a dimension between holes, and a note.. Do not drill into spar cap. I used the Iron Design dimensions and drew Leonard's on the fitting. As you can see, it is perilously close to the spar cap. (yes, I will polish out the pencil scratches..)
(https://static.imgzeit.com/reduced/5340eef74af6884f/IMG_20200727_111812486.jpg)
Just a heads up in case someone finds this as they are building spars in the future. Another that isn't immediately obvious to some is if you glue the plywood over this as you are building spars, you won't be able to slide the ribs on to it. :o
Left spars complete, rights shortly except for the right root. Had a balls up from the material supplier.
Another bite on the elephant.. :)
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Just an update and a couple of "gotchas." :) On the strut fittings, Leonard gives a dimension between holes, and a note.. Do not drill into spar cap. I used the Iron Design dimensions
(https://static.imgzeit.com/reduced/5340eef74af6884f/IMG_20200727_111812486.jpg)
Just a heads up in case someone finds this as they are building spars in the future. Another that isn't immediately obvious to some is if you glue the plywood over this as you are building spars, you won't be able to slide the ribs on to it. :o
Left spars complete, rights shortly except for the right root. Had a balls up from the material supplier.
Another bite on the elephant.. :)
I love it when things are shown so well, as the build goes along. Builders, very often you can make a "build book" of do's and don'ts, and insert these sheets (i.e.-spars, tail section, ribs and so on, even long before you get to them... "review and do" as you go along. Saves time, saves headaches.
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Question. In my materials kit, I'm seeing 2 pieces of spruce 1 X 1 1/2 X 12. I'm guessing they are for the aileron hinge blocks, but hate to cut one up in case I've overlooked something. Is there anything else they could be?
Thanks,
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Check again. I think it read [1-3/4] x 1 x 12. If that's the case, you right about it being for the hinge block.
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Thanks for that, my bad. (roll eye) They are 1 3/4.
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I haven't been totally slackin.. grandson Max wants to be a rocket scientist, got a scholarship to Iowa State, and we've been helping with the move.
Here's the nose art for "bullet."
(https://static.imgzeit.com/reduced/63e3d350d3cc0d74/Screenshot_2020-08-04%20mario%20bullet%20bill%20at%20DuckDuckGo.png)
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Jury strut fittings. You might note on your plans if you are at this stage that instead of "make 4," it should read make 2 as shown, 2 opposite.
They are kind of a PITA.. :)
(https://static.imgzeit.com/reduced/a75339b338e18939/IMG_20200807_095212655.jpg)
Finally got around to drilling the spars for the fittings. You get one try at this, and if it's not square, they won't line up. (Sweating bullets, but that seems appropriate, somehow.) ;)
(https://static.imgzeit.com/reduced/6332d0c08f544ef4/IMG_20200807_124125463_HDR.jpg)
Whew!
(https://static.imgzeit.com/reduced/d42f540e7dea3037/IMG_20200807_125426207.jpg)
Spent the best part of the day *very* carefully lining up and drilling 24 holes. This is the one I was looking for..the last one.
(https://static.imgzeit.com/reduced/bd7809e3a16f2014/IMG_20200807_143144872.jpg)
Whew! A little stressful, but I can finally start assembling the wings.
It's beer o'clock.
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looking really good Chuck!
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Thanks, Scott! Well, I just *had* to take a picture of some "visual progress" this morning. :)) One more bite.
(https://static.imgzeit.com/reduced/e9ef6c25c37c41f9/IMG_20200808_101128254.jpg)
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Casual observers, please note the use of the tall angle plate keeping things square on two planes...(not airplane) This greatly helps down the road.
:))
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I *assume* that anyone that has come this far has done a fair amount of thinking about it, but there is a gotcha lurking in the wings.. don't forget to put an .8mm shim under the spar so the leading edge will (eventually) line up with the ribs.
I borrowed a friend's scroll saw to trim the gussets on the ribs to fit the aileron spar. Didn't work. :grin: Tried a coping saw. Didn't like that. Used a file with a "safe" edge, and it literally took 10 minutes to do them. ::) Overthinking got me again. :)
(https://static.imgzeit.com/reduced/c5c239e9d566b2a2/IMG_20200808_154541474.jpg)
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Rear spar installed, but still far from mixing glue.
(https://static.imgzeit.com/reduced/db48b9b5f2d0ae04/IMG_20200810_135904726.jpg)
Drilling that aileron hinge location in the rib jig and parts pays dividends, now.. :)
(https://static.imgzeit.com/reduced/9de255a6991e5825/IMG_20200810_144638014.jpg)
The aileron spar needs to be installed before the tip ribs. The drawings don't show the location of the lightening holes. That means the designer doesn't think it is important, but probably it would be good for them to be sort of symmetrical. ;)
If you are finding this thread in the future, here's a quicky cad drawing with the aileron holes called out if your spar is close to what Leonard's is.. starting from the aileron root. Mine is .03" longer than his, but no big deal.
(https://static.imgzeit.com/reduced/f9b3f506e55f4c79/IMG_20200810_165146925.jpg)
Another small bite off the elephant.
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I *assume* that anyone that has come this far has done a fair amount of thinking about it, but there is a gotcha lurking in the wings.. don't forget to put an .8mm shim under the spar so the leading edge will (eventually) line up with the ribs.
I borrowed a friend's scroll saw to trim the gussets on the ribs to fit the aileron spar. Didn't work. :grin: Tried a coping saw. Didn't like that. Used a file with a "safe" edge, and it literally took 10 minutes to do them. ::) Overthinking got me again. :)
(https://static.imgzeit.com/reduced/c5c239e9d566b2a2/IMG_20200808_154541474.jpg)
Hi Chuck, I'm close to dry fitting everything for my first wing too and have come across a few gotchas along the way as well. (like the strut attach point bottom hole being very close to the spar cap) I'm not sure I understand what you mean: "don't forget to put an .8mm shim under the spar so the leading edge will (eventually) line up with the ribs." Can you explain a little more or provide a pic? Thanks, Pete
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Sure. If all goes to plan :) your rib is .16mm taller than the front spar where it meets up. When the .8mm skin is wrapped around the nose rib and glued to the spar, it will then be flush on the top and bottom.
So.. an .8mm shim under the front spar before gluing the rib to the spar will make that happen.
Is it all that important? Well, no, not really. :) Doing the best you can is only good craftsmanship, though.
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Here is a photo of a mock-up I used to make sure my front spar and nose ribs fit just right. The little piece of 0.8 mm ply under the nose ribs and front spar is what Chuck means about a spacer. The spar and nose ribs have to sit 0.8 mm above your work table when your ribs sit directly on the table. That way the ply covered nose ribs align perfectly with the bottom of your wing ribs.
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Just documenting what the aft root of the front spar looks like..it's not terribly clear on the LE drawings, and not shown at all on the ID drawings.
(https://static.imgzeit.com/reduced/b136c401c5c35c7a/IMG_20200813_154010246.jpg)
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I see a layer of ply I don't see on my drawings covering the 3/4 filler and over the spar caps. I have the rounded end pads going under all fittings front and back sides 8 total The space between my fittings would end up being 1" and 1/8" or perhaps more clearly 1.125". My drawings are an old set number 7, But in 2010 and 2012 there were some plan clarifications posted in the yahoo group. I have no idea if newer sets were updated or look like mine.
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Tom and all,
I know Leonard hates computers and typing with a passion. However he loves EAA and helping people build their own airplanes.
I am sure if you call him he will send any changes to the plans up to the minute.
He lights up when a builder calls. He is getting on in years. Call him.
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I had built the spars with plywood on one side only following the Iron Design drawings, and when I did the first "trial assembly," a little bell was ringing in the back of my head saying, "This isn't a normal way to build a spar." :)
Sure enough, I had skimmed the LE drawings, and missed this:
(https://static.imgzeit.com/reduced/c77c07fd73c0983c/IMG_20200814_065831804.jpg)
I thought, "Shirley :grin: the answer is on the fuselage drawings..there should be a dimension on the wing attach."
It says, "fit to your wing." ;)
So, I used standard practice and covered the butts on both sides with 1/8" plywood. That meant I had to modify both end ribs. Doing that as we speak.
and it says
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I got an update on 1/9/2010. Page 35- remove arrow from (1/8 Ply over to filler) in two places... Arrow to plywood fitting bearer remains...
I copied that faithfully right down to the triple periods.
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Another head scratcher. I have the same Page 35 "top to bottom with 1/8" ply over both sides" but then on page 36 the gap between the wing attach brackets is 1 1/8". With the ply on the front of the spar already, another on the back and then the 2"x4" wing attach bracket backing of 1/8" ply your at 1 1/4" gap. Being a first time builder, I like to take advise from experienced builders. I must have seen somewhere what Tom mentions below and went that route. The other thing, again having followed the plans, I would have made the wing attach bracket backing of 1/8" ply a little longer. Maybe 4 1/4". As you can see, the back hole is pretty close to the edge of that 1/8" ply.
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Friends, I have to admit, I tried to show (anything and everything up to the date WHEN the supplemental plans were produced) including the latest updates at the time. As has been pointed out over the years, I may have put in, something that was taken out, or left out something that was put in. If that makes any sense. Pretty much like most of these have been built... Most of the time, no wrong reasons.
At the time, they were as good as I could do, and seem to be so, up to this date. Just like AD's to certified aircraft, there are "things" that come up even 20 years after a aircraft has been flying. Some even longer- note, Cessna 177 cardinal spars-
Dan, this would be a great time, since you seem to oversee all things concerning the XL, to make note here, what has changed, what is presently the best recommendation and so on It simply happens when plans span over many years!. Or perhaps this is already done. ~~then just point it out ~~ I would be more than happy to add them to my other free clarification pdf's, if could find a precise summary. https://irondesigniowa.com/?post_type=product&s=&product_cat=helpful-pdf-files-for-free-down-loading-for-your-xl-aircraft-building (https://irondesigniowa.com/?post_type=product&s=&product_cat=helpful-pdf-files-for-free-down-loading-for-your-xl-aircraft-building) I used to do this very thing for a few design projects in years past but limitations on my time have forced me to pass the torch. If someone wants to do the call, and do the posting update, that works to.
Best of success to all!
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I got an update on 1/9/2010. Page 35- remove arrow from (1/8 Ply over to filler) in two places... Arrow to plywood fitting bearer remains...
I copied that faithfully right down to the triple periods.
Weird. My XL plans were bought from Leonard 6-26-18, so I would say they are pretty current.
Maybe the "original" Legal Eagle only had ply on one side and that is where this conundrum comes from?
Dunno.
I think I'll file this in the "some things aren't meant to be understood" file. :grin:
Needless to say, I'll leave the ply on both sides of the root and strut attach locations. That is "standard" practice.
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I think this is one of those deals where everybody gets to interpret the plans as they see fit. There are a lot of inconsistencies in the plywood to wing fittings area. I noticed the Pietenpol uses a ply web on one side of the spar and a large doubler ply plate on the other (like Chuck has), but no smaller ply plates over the larger plywood, under the metal fittings. Chuck's way is definitely the strongest, but does require 1-1/4" between metal fittings
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add to confusion Hope these PDFs work. first time new printer and it is smarter than me.
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add to confusion Hope these PDFs work. first time new printer and it is smarter than me.
I understand that when the machines revolt against us, the printers will sit it out. :grin: They tend to go their own way..
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As the first wing sits today.
(https://static.imgzeit.com/reduced/fb7724abcf565e69/IMG_20200818_103059020.jpg)
Hmmm, doesn't look much different. Have you been slackin? :)
The difference is the ribs (except the double ribs on the ends) are glued to the spars. The outboard ribs can't be glued until the aileron spar is fit up if you are using the Iron Design drawings and method of building the ailerons.
I wanted to tie down the location of the rear spar, so didn't glue the butt ribs either.
(https://static.imgzeit.com/reduced/8fe9440f603f225e/IMG_20200818_102220898.jpg)
Yesterday, I glued the fronts. Here's how I glued the rears. I've read some questions on this, and this is how I did it. It's not the only way, or maybe even the "right" way, but it worked well.
Once I had the rear spar located as closely as I could measure.. not very.. ::) I squared up all the ribs and drew a pencil line around each.
(https://static.imgzeit.com/reduced/dabd41742ee32d0c/IMG_20200818_100519128.jpg)
As the rear spar can no longer move, I could move the rib sideways, apply glue, slide it back and clamp it.
How did I do that, you say?
If you built your ribs per plans, there is about 1/16" clearance on the front vertical rib member. Push that aft, and there will be some clearance so you don't wipe off the glue. Slide it over to line up with the previous pencil marks.
I had a batch of popsickle stick with a shallow taper ground on the end with a disc sander at the ready.They are 1/16" thick. Slide them between the spar and the rib, keep your square handy to make sure everything is ;) and go to the next rib. Repeat as necessary. :grin:
(https://static.imgzeit.com/reduced/0c103fe2896a095e/IMG_20200818_102202712.jpg)
And now for something completely different.
(https://static.imgzeit.com/reduced/b55c7fe2741abff5/IMG_20200818_102757121.jpg)
While the glue is curing, I'll make the steel parts for the drag struts.
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Looking really good! Since I don't have to do all the tedious things, (like make 27,693 gussets), I can enjoy your build and live vicariously through you!
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You exaggerate. There were only 27690 gussets.. :grin:
Somehow, I miscalculated and have some left over for the next (not) :)) wing.
It *is* interesting, though. Gives me something to think about and look forward to solving the *next* problem. Most of airplane building, IMHO, is problem solving.
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I'll go out this morning and see how many of these clamps are bonded to the ribs. :o
(https://static.imgzeit.com/reduced/12dc5ddc2db1ca3d/IMG_20200819_160829488.jpg)
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Drag struts in.
(https://static.imgzeit.com/reduced/ab0698e457772d8c/IMG_20200820_145305304.jpg)
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Drag strut gussets installed and strut tied to the ribs.
(https://static.imgzeit.com/reduced/3415a6ea598aaa30/IMG_20200821_145254804.jpg)
Tomorrow, I'll finish up the 4130 piece for the inboard drag strut,fit up the root ribs for the last time, and glue them.
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Root ribs installed for the last time and glued. My ever present Delrin blocks hold them 1 inch apart, and the square checks to make sure.
(https://static.imgzeit.com/reduced/f695f393b5ad312e/IMG_20200822_112347972.jpg)
Time to make some pins to locate false aileron ribs..Delrin, naturally. ;)
(https://static.imgzeit.com/reduced/c2e015d36d0c36ce/IMG_20200822_112405487_HDR.jpg)
A square clamped to the table keeps rib #7 square, so the aileron spar can be fit up.
(https://static.imgzeit.com/reduced/753ada39480913c4/IMG_20200822_170043457.jpg)
(https://static.imgzeit.com/reduced/33b2a98a1a2fd7ec/IMG_20200822_170102266.jpg)
It was getting late in the day, and I've always said I do my best work in bed.. :o :) so I decided to sleep on it before gluing the aileron and tip ribs..just in case I think of something at 2AM.
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Prepped and glued today. While waiting for the T88 to do it's thing, finished up the drag strut fitting.
(https://static.imgzeit.com/reduced/dcf6aa92e9f71510/IMG_20200823_144953318.jpg)
I made it like the drawing, but it looks to me that I could cut off that outer 1 1/2 inch and save (calculating) 27 grams per wing. It doesn't look like it is doing anything to me..
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Can't put it off any longer.. I'll have to see if I can cut that trailing edge.. :P
(https://static.imgzeit.com/reduced/7e8ac303660b9df3/IMG_20200824_164848395.jpg)
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Ever since I saw the two long pieces of 3/8"X 1" spruce for trailing edges, I worried about screwing them up. :) As I've mentioned before, I'm a machinist, not a woodworker.
Here's what I came up with in case you are also wondering how to cut them.
I spent the morning cutting up a 2X4 to get it straight.. and 1 inch thick. Stuck the trailing edge piece to it with carpet tape. Did the math and cranked the table saw blade over to 17.9 ::) degrees.
Made a pressure plate to hold it against the table. Yesterday, I saved big money at Menard's :grin: and bought another feather board. A guy can't have too many tools.. the feather boards held it all against the fence, the pressure plate held it down.. and I quit sweating.
(https://static.imgzeit.com/reduced/b891ea6d8f56f2ec/IMG_20200826_125605618.jpg)
They look pretty good if I do say so. I'll try to not break my arm patting myself on the back.
(https://static.imgzeit.com/reduced/ec74b86b50ae8180/IMG_20200826_130533617_HDR.jpg)
Sanded and glued.
(https://static.imgzeit.com/reduced/88fb8c775dd649ec/IMG_20200826_160915796.jpg)
A good day, another problem solved, and a big bite off the elephant. ;)
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Did ours the same way except without the fancy, smancy jigs and such. Turned out great, and I somehow retain possession of all ten fingers!(I probably sweat a quart though, while you were cool as a cucumber) :)) Nice set up and results!
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Great progress! Thanks for posting all the pics Chuck.
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Did ours the same way except without the fancy, smancy jigs and such. Turned out great, and I somehow retain possession of all ten fingers!(I probably sweat a quart though, while you were cool as a cucumber) :)) Nice set up and results!
Thanks.. it's always good to still be able to count to 10 after a machining operation.. :grin:
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Great progress! Thanks for posting all the pics Chuck.
My pleasure. I think it can help someone understand how it is put together.. at least my version of Leonard's sketches. ;)
One of the many hats I've worn over the years is mold maker, and I have lots of straight ground ejector pins. I cut one in half, and pinned the tip ribs and aileron ribs.
(https://static.imgzeit.com/reduced/9b1b1363abba3fad/IMG_20200828_102546311.jpg)
(https://static.imgzeit.com/reduced/3d630d05262b22b2/IMG_20200828_102603931.jpg)
It is very easy at this point to tweak the ailerons when fitting up the diagonal braces.
Before I put that last skin on the root and tip ribs, though.. I need to varnish where the sun don't shine. :grin: An assortment of brushes gets that done.
(https://static.imgzeit.com/reduced/abad6d25fb869aaf/IMG_20200828_104108927.jpg)
Diagonals fit up.
(https://static.imgzeit.com/reduced/9bdfbb37c5d5fd6e/IMG_20200828_112438822.jpg)
One more coat of varnish, glue the skins and diagonals on, and this wing is as done as I'm going to get it right now.
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Grandmother, who came to Indiana in a covered wagon train..(true story) :o always said, "waste not, want not." I've had some of these little aircraft nails for over 50 years.
(https://static.imgzeit.com/reduced/47d4839ea0990474/IMG_20200829_132015402.jpg)
Time to not waste them.. :)) She lived long enough to fly to D.C. to visit her daughter in a Super Connie, by the way. :)
(https://static.imgzeit.com/reduced/717f751ad1145866/IMG_20200829_133536498.jpg)
I didn't really have any clamps for these gussets, so just nailed them down.
Better check the weight.. :grin:
(https://static.imgzeit.com/reduced/3e879525bad75117/IMG_20200829_132115938.jpg)
Hmmm, doing the math in my head.. .002 oz. X 36 equals .072 oz. I can probably live with that. ;)
Moved the wing out into the hanger for the first time..
(https://static.imgzeit.com/reduced/68283b1e32b8fabd/IMG_20200829_150538158.jpg)
I'm calling this wing as done as it is going to get right now. I'll leave cutting the ailerons loose, nose ribs and skin, etc. until after the second wing is in the same condition. No need to tear down this setup.
So, that's it for a while. No need to post the same thing over again. I hope this has been of some value to someone. :)
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Very informative photos. Thank you very much!
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is that your Pacer ?
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Modified Colt.
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Oh. One thing I meant to mention. I just started cutting up the .8mm plywood without thinking about the leading edge skins. ::)
My cad sez 18.8" per skin.. that means you get two per 4X4 sheet. Uh oh. :)
If I had to do it over again, I would cut two 20 inch slices off of each before even thinking about making gussets, etc. I need to order another 4X4 sheet..
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Chuck, I am sure you already know this, but some might not, remember the .8mm ply rolls one way easy, the other way "not so much"
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Chuck, I am sure you already know this, but some might not, remember the .8mm ply rolls one way easy, the other way "not so much"
Actually, I didn't. It came rolled up. I just peeled off one and started cutting it up. Bad idea.. :)
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Actually, I didn't. It came rolled up. I just peeled off one and started cutting it up. Bad idea.. :)
Ok, this is where I will toss out a few ideas. And I don't mind to be corrected as some of this is coming from memory only. but with the .8mm nose ply. You can only get it to conform to your nose ribs one direction, trying to get it to form the hard way, is to little of radius for the ply.
There have been some excellent photos showing how it was held during the glue process, but we made some simple sheet metal strips that were about 4" (might have been 3" that were longer than the nose ribs, and these had holes (4, 1 on each side of rib, top and bottom) that our bungee cords hooked into..clamps can work too, but like to apply constant pressure during glue process, you can really snug the ply to the ribs that way without fighting the main rib. (alignment marks really help here.)
Don't be stingy with the glue, you can reach through and wipe excess off quickly. You can premark or measure where the contact areas are going to be, filling in a dry spot is pretty hard.
All of your hard work keeping things straight, pays off now.
Trimming to fit perfectly is possible. (mini block plane, razor knife, sanding block) You can dry fit, alignment mark as many times as you want. I like to do this with the wing pointing to the sky vs laying on a table, thus you can see both sides and makes the gluing a bit easier.
Best of success.
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Thanks for that, Scott.
Aaaarg! Aircraft spruce's robot says they will charge me $131.47 shipping on that $37.50 piece of plywood. :o I'll talk to a human and see if they can't do better than that.
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Thanks for mentioning the .8mm ply. I did the same thing, just yanked one sheet out of the box and started cutting gussets.
Question, I'm still building ribs and noticed you left off the short 1/4"x1/4" vertical cap strip and gussets near the trailing edge of each rib?
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Thanks for mentioning the .8mm ply. I did the same thing, just yanked one sheet out of the box and started cutting gussets.
Question, I'm still building ribs and noticed you left off the short 1/4"x1/4" vertical cap strip and gussets near the trailing edge of each rib?
I did. Early on, when I was first building ribs,jrbirdman said:
Chuck, my only real concern was that shrinking the fabric in that area might cause it to collapse slightly, however, some in the discussion held that it wouldn't do that either. I was looking for a cheap and easy way to peace of mind that did not include making more gussets to augment the hundreds of thousands it seemed I had already made for 4 wings, and that's why the plywood addition.
and I said:
As the NFL says, "Upon further review.." :) I drug out my Pietenpol drawings, and the last vertical member in Bernie's rib is 11 3/4 from the trailing edge. As far as I know, they don't have a problem.. and are a real speed demon, to boot. :))
So I made an executive decision and left it out. I guess I'll be the first to know if I *should* have put it in.. :)) Wing number 1 seems stiff enough though.
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Thanks for mentioning the .8mm ply. I did the same thing, just yanked one sheet out of the box and started cutting gussets.
Question, I'm still building ribs and noticed you left off the short 1/4"x1/4" vertical cap strip and gussets near the trailing edge of each rib?
all though I have not seen a poll summed up on this piece, it is shown only once... on some plans and never again as far as I can tell. Like Chuck said there are many (aircraft) with far larger spreads in space (gaps) without it.
Scott
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The right wing is coming along nicely, and while waiting for the glue to dry.. :) I rough sawed and drilled the lightening holes in the nose ribs. Ten 1/4" and twelve 1/8". Half inch dowels keep them located. Machinist's parallel clamps, shaper parallels, and a Forstner bit made easy work of it.
Now this is done, I can stack a few and use my new found mad woodworker skilz :D and a pattern bit in the router to make the inside and outside shape.
(https://static.imgzeit.com/reduced/008aa28ef9accf21/IMG_20200907_100702555.jpg)
Leonard's material list is a bare minimum, btw. I ran out of big enough pieces of 1/4". Fortunately, I had some 1/8" left over from a long ago project, and glued them together to make three 1/4" nose ribs.
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I remember this part. Knee deep in wood chips! Looking really nice there!
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I remember this part. Knee deep in wood chips! Looking really nice there!
Oh yeah.. no matter how hard I try to keep the mess to a minimum, it will take me a month to clean up the shop after the wood work. It's been a learning experience, but I've almost had all this fun I can stand. :grin:
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While I was waiting for the T88 to set up on the compression members, I set up all the noses ribs and in my best Captain Kirk voice said, "Computer.. cut that slot." :grin:
(https://static.imgzeit.com/reduced/148d1e9d31b26f1a/IMG_20200909_151406661.jpg)
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Oh yeah.. no matter how hard I try to keep the mess to a minimum, it will take me a month to clean up the shop after the wood work. It's been a learning experience, but I've almost had all this fun I can stand. :grin:
I will clean up wood "remains" such as dust and chips any day over metal filings and or plasma dust. Plasma dust is so fine, you can't feel it, but it will coat your fingers and everything else in a heart beat. Basically metal that has been burned into smoke like clouds, that hopefully is 100% exhausted.. (but rarely happens) Vac is about the only thing to get it, and that simply doesn't seem to happen all the time.
The fun in the shop...wouldn't trade it for anything.
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I dunno. There is a fine layer of dust everywhere I look, now. :-\ It will take me for freakin ever to clean it up so I can go back to precision work. No matter how hard I've tried to keep it cleaned up, the dust is pervasive. (shrug)
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Finally got my shop cleaned up after building 4 wings in there. It took two long days because I had to start at the top and work my way down, cleaning the sawdust off of everything on the shelves, every item hanging on the peg boards, all the way to the floor, etc, and doing so only stirs up more dust so when I finished I started over and did it all again. But it finally got (mostly) clean and useable again. Or, you could just burn the place and rebuild. Either way.
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Or, you could just burn the place and rebuild. Either way.
Great idea..but it's hooked to the hanger. :grin:
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You have some nice tools Chuck...I don't even know what that machine is. I'm feeling a little less then adequate in the tool department over here.
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You have some nice tools Chuck...I don't even know what that machine is. I'm feeling a little less then adequate in the tool department over here.
It's a cnc milling machine that I've had since..(gasp) 1985. You don't really need many tools to build a Legal Eagle, though. Some, like this one just makes some jobs easier. You can make a router fixture and do the same thing. I bought some woodworking tools because basically the price of tools to do the job is small compared to the price of the project, and the proper tool makes it easier and faster. I already had a table saw which I use to cut heavy aluminum (with coolant) and plastic. check.
band saw. check.
disc sander. check.
drill press. check.
welding equipment. check
Those tools alone "could" get the airplane built.
For building the wings, I bought a miter saw. $180. Not necessary, but really handy.
Trim router and portable table. About $110.
Oscillating saw kit..about $80 I think. So, that's $370. That is a very small part of the total price to build the airplane, and as I've said many times.. having the proper tool is generally about 2/3 of the job. :grin:
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It's a cnc milling machine that I've had since..(gasp) 1985. You don't really need many tools to build a Legal Eagle, though. Some, like this one just makes some jobs easier. You can make a router fixture and do the same thing. I bought some woodworking tools because basically the price of tools to do the job is small compared to the price of the project, and the proper tool makes it easier and faster. I already had a table saw which I use to cut heavy aluminum (with coolant) and plastic. check.
band saw. check.
disc sander. check.
drill press. check.
welding equipment. check
Those tools alone "could" get the airplane built.
For building the wings, I bought a miter saw. $180. Not necessary, but really handy.
Trim router and portable table. About $110.
Oscillating saw kit..about $80 I think. So, that's $370. That is a very small part of the total price to build the airplane, and as I've said many times.. having the proper tool is generally about 2/3 of the job. :grin:
Very nice. My latest tool for sanding rib cap strips....LOL....It gets the job done though.
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Pretty clever, and no doubt gets the job done.
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I have an old Ryobi belt sander that has a flat top parallel to the belt. All controls speed and belt tracking are on the side. So it sits well upside down. It has been a handy feature.
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Wouldn't want you guys to think I've been slackin'.. :)
(https://static.imgzeit.com/reduced/5df9eb345a08f436/IMG_20200916_141237934.jpg)
(https://static.imgzeit.com/reduced/19a6c3fe0744c8f9/IMG_20200916_141243804.jpg)
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I've not been looking forward to building this D section. Wish me luck.. :)
(https://static.imgzeit.com/reduced/56c92664e2ea77ff/IMG_20200923_090748303.jpg)
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I thought it was pretty intimidating too, but once through it I thought it was one of the more satisfying parts of the wing build. Seemed to be very time consuming, with building jigs, sealing, and glueing it all together, but once done it really did look nice and didn't seem so bad.
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i like the setup!
vertical seems to be good for straight line look and clamps
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More waiting for the glue to dry.
(https://static.imgzeit.com/reduced/216812562974c95e/IMG_20200926_093847138.jpg)
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Beautiful work! I'm going to add an extra nose rib at the root and tip ends to support the LE ply during wing handling. We cracked a buddy's nose ply when installing and uninstalling his wings. Hard not to grab the LE when installing or removing the wing attach bolts. Something to think about.
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Something to think about.
Thinking.. thinking.. Ka ching. :) I'm totally out of plywood, but I'll order some. Cracking that D section would ruin my whole day. Thanks!
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Finally. After some near panic attacks.. :grin:
(https://static.imgzeit.com/reduced/f141179155a63e9b/IMG_20201006_122236242_HDR.jpg)
(https://static.imgzeit.com/reduced/554a05ecd324e661/IMG_20201006_123830708.jpg)
Woo Hoo!
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A thing of beauty!
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A thing of beauty!
What is it?
Not a Veewee anyhow, doesnt look like a Verner?
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It's the rear side of a Verner.
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An old timer (OX5 guy) showed me this trick 50 years ago, and I'm passing it on..
(https://static.imgzeit.com/reduced/3f2efaff7dbf9f99/IMG_20201007_151329117.jpg)
You can load the brush as you go.
Still have to do the lightening holes in this picture. That is a lot of fun. Not. :grin:
(https://static.imgzeit.com/reduced/f3aaec2ec74f614f/IMG_20201007_151406742.jpg)
Building an airplane is kind of like child birth. You forget the pain after a while.. ;)
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Some days, it doesn't pay to chew through the straps. :grin: The material list calls for 18 AN4-16a and 18 AN3-13A, so I dutifully ordered them. I'm starting to skin the leading edges, so thought it might be a good idea to install the jury strut fittings first. ;) Here is one with the AN3-13a. As you can see, even with a wood washer under the head (which isn't called out) they should be 12a, or maybe 11a. I'll rummage through my "good junk" pile and see if I have an 11.
(https://static.imgzeit.com/reduced/9178502bfdbbf9bc/IMG_20201010_154409565.jpg)
Hmmm, better check the other stuff.
Here's the wing attach fittings with a 16a.
(https://static.imgzeit.com/reduced/072c7d70ef39b8c9/IMG_20201010_152428482.jpg)
They need to be AN4-20a.
Didn't take a picture of the strut fittings, but the bolts for them need to be An4-15a.
Just a heads up in case someone finds this in the future and doesn't want to end up with hardware they can't use.
Oh, opened my spar varnish can, and apparently I didn't do a good job of sealing it yesterday.. ::)
Some days, it is one step forward and two steps back. :grin:
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Yeah, I found out that I needed several different lengths besides what was called for. Just ordered a bunch at various lengths and used what was correct. Nice looking fittings. Are yours steel or did you paint for corrosion prevention?
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They are aluminum, as called out. Bead blasted and powder coated.
One of the reasons I ordered what was called out was I *hate* paying shipping and fondling charges. :grin: Now, I'm going to have to do that.. and.. wait until the stuff gets here.
I was hoping to have everything (mostly) I needed without buying onesy twoesy.. and shipping charges. Shipping charges rant from AS&S deleted. (grumbling and shuffling off)
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Ok, let's start skinning these things. I searched all over here, and Les's blog, but didn't see how anyone else was doing it. If you are using the Iron Design drawings, the dimension is 18.8"YMMV, of course. Think about this before cutting up any of the .8mm ply before you start making gussets, etc. You need 7 pieces.I was too stupid to think about this, and wound up buying another sheet. (and paying an exorbitant shipping charge.) Ok, I'll stop griping now.
A sheet metal shear makes short work out of cutting them out.
(https://static.imgzeit.com/reduced/f76e3f3b01694cbf/IMG_20201011_144459982_HDR.jpg)
Little round super magnets hold it in location while adjusting the cut line. The light on top is from Harbor Freight, and it is awesome. Really bright, adustable, magnet on the end, and rechargable. 20 some bux. I could sell these. :)
Mask everywhere glue won't be and varnish.
(https://static.imgzeit.com/reduced/f488b641db4aa0f7/IMG_20201011_100039749.jpg)
I thought maybe I could glue it all at once, staple it down, and move to the next one.
Nada.
The only way I could get the ply to lay down all over the ribs was this..
(https://static.imgzeit.com/reduced/07ce2cd2ff1aab3a/IMG_20201011_110340370.jpg)
Plywood formers cut a smidgen (technical term) :) big with weather strip glued to it and pulled down with ratchet straps. This is going to be slow going, but I'm doing this for something to do.. I have to keep reminding myself.
I glued the first side, and tomorrow I'll wet the outside with towels, pull it all down, and "wait for the glue to dry.."
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Yup. that's what I did except I didn't use the plywood formers. Slow set epoxy (West system with slow hardener to give ample time to get things right). One piece at a time.
https://www.eaglersnest.com/forum/gallery/98-210114204917.jpeg
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Whew! I've built some complicated wings before.. but these are labor intensive. :)) Of course, I knew that before starting this project. I was looking for *something to do*.
Last skin glued down on the left, last skin fit up and varnished on the right.
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/e05915e85d882ba4/IMG_20201019_143646834.jpg)
Tomorrow should finish that job. Still have to cut the ailerons free, skin them, and make some kind of aileron cove.
If someone finds this thread in the future, and is using T88, .415 oz of hardener mixed with .5 of part A is "just right" as Goldilocks said for one skin, thin coat on both sides. I *hate* mixing too much and wasting it even more than not making enough and having to make more as the batch is curing.
One other tip. If you make a stand for your T88..
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/3e09a75b71b376b9/IMG_20201019_140105569.jpg)
You know how slippery T88 is? You probably shouldn't leave the bottles upside down overnight. If a cap comes loose, it will make a fine mess on your workbench. Don't ask me how I know this.. :grin:
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Cut out the ailerons today. :grin:
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/3a152c6e55602f2a/IMG_20201021_164711658.jpg)
Then thought for a while about how I was going to trim the rough saw cuts to shape. When I started this project, I didn't even know what a pattern bit is.. but I do now. I also have a little trim router, and (sort of) know how to use it. (kinda)
Stuck the K block gusset router template on it with carpet tape, located it with a couple of wood dowels, and fired up the router with fear and trepidation. :grin:
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/5fa2f72ad7681a8b/IMG_20201021_143702352.jpg)
Nice. I love it when a plan comes together..
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/d6fa98b7be25cfda/IMG_20201021_144339982.jpg)
Now, I have to figure out how to skin the aileron noses. Maybe soaking or steaming and rolling them inside something?
Building an airplane is just solving one problem after another until you are done. ;) :)
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Nice looking cut! I had no problem just bending the plywood around the nose of the aileron. They were slightly curved already from having been rolled up in a cardboard shipping tube for a few months as part of the whole sheet, but the arch was very slight. I just fastened one side along the spar cap first, then bent it over and fastened the other. I didn't think it was difficult, so maybe yours will bend as easily.
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We must have a different plywood manufacturer. I had one crack bending it around a nose rib. :o Fortunately, it was on an outer edge and I hadn't trimmed it to width yet.
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If you are using the Iron Design drawings..K block installation on rib 7 and 12.
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/afee8949f42b0a5b/IMG_20201023_145241026.jpg)
Did the math, made a "for instance" part :) measured, and this is the first sort of "for real" aileron cove.
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/8a07a967c6569ed1/IMG_20201024_131504258.jpg)
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/f462ad1da6606eb3/IMG_20201024_131543636.jpg)
Decided I could make it in two pieces with the join at rib 9.
First piece glued down.
(https://static.imgzeit.com/reduced/534d7c53f69ff173/IMG_20201024_154424640.jpg)
This gutter flashing is *kind of* :o delicate. Just look at it crosswise and it will dent. :))
So far, so good. Even a blind hawg will find the occasional acorn..
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Very nice installation! Is it one piece?
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Two pieces joined at rib 9.I only have a 4 foot break.
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Hmmm, thought I'd posted this.. at any rate, I'm calling them done. Except for varnish..
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/0f67172307685b00/IMG_20201028_143213245.jpg)
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That piece of ply at the far end of the bench is the one I've been looking for.. the *last* one. :grin:
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/695e4e4094c15e84/IMG_20201030_111623853.jpg)
I'll get it fit up and varnished today, and glue it tomorrow.
FWIW, my plywood was very stiff. To form it, I glued and stapled the first side, then laid hot wet towels on it and let it soak a bit. YMMV of course. Finishing these up just in the nick of time. ;) I'm going in for hand surgery (so I can use the clutch on my motorcycles) next week, so this project will stall for a while.
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Temporarily installed the ailerons in the wings, and started looking for something I could possibly do with one hand :o after the operation. Sitting in front of the tube is not an option.
Hmmm, maybe I can start on the control stick.. here's the "sketch" with a fair amount left to the imagination. :)
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/079ba17865bc14ea/IMG_20201102_172204978.jpg)
I much prefer real engineering drawings with real dimensions.
Rummaged around in my good airplane junk pile, and picked my best 3" pulley. Drilled the lightening holes in it..
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/bd40cda398c147c3/IMG_20201102_172232996.jpg)
And chucked up a piece of steel to make a 3/8" to 3/"16 bushing. The drive belt on the lathe broke. Crap.. I'll put the old one on that I replaced. It broke, too. :grin: Ordered three new belts. I normally get several years out of a belt, so looking at the actuarial tables, that should be a lifetime supply. Oh, well.. another small bite out of the elephant. I did *something.* That is the only way a guy gets an airplane built, even something a simple as a Legal Eagle.
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A guy can't read all of the time.. :) Started doing miesen plas (if I were cooking) for when I can weld again. Made most of the front pulley bracket on the stick assembly sketch.
Found some 1 1/8 dia. 1/8" wall 4130 tubing, and drilled out to 1"
(https://static.imgzeit.com/reduced/d731bfee52297f92/IMG_20201114_100709512.jpg)
Normally, a drill will drill a little oversize, so it should slide over the 1" aluminum tube. My persistence on setting up the toy lathe included indicating and grinding the tailstock ways dead nuts paid off, though,,and it drilled right on size. ::)
Bored them out to a slip fit on the tube.
(https://static.imgzeit.com/reduced/44ea9e6340b5fa5b/IMG_20201114_103229477.jpg)
Here's how it will assemble. Eventually.
(https://static.imgzeit.com/reduced/4fcabdf50b61fe56/IMG_20201114_105117943.jpg)
It took way longer than it should, naturally, but it got me out of the house.
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You have a great sequence going here C-i-I ! ! ! Steve
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Thanks, Steve. I realize some (or much) of what I'm posting was probably on the old Yahoo list, but as a new LE builder, I couldn't find a lot of info by searching. I'm hoping to kind of "fill in some blanks" for builders like me. I was planning on flying "bullet" :grin: within a year of starting, but this hand operation has slowed progress.
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Looking for something to do with one hand.. I decided I could lay out the tail feathers. Did ok until I came to the rudder. I would recommend some changes to your drawing if you are at this point.
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/34374f89366549c9/IMG_20201127_154337927.jpg)
The flange width (circled) should be 1/2". FAA 4313 calls for the edge distance from the rivet center to the edge to be "a minimum of 2X the rivet diameter."
The 22" dimension circled can't be right. That would put it in the center of the cluster.
The 10" dimension apparently goes to nothing.(?)
Here is what I'm going to do:
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/e13fff6d13cd29a2/IMG_20201127_153744284.jpg)
This puts the hinge locations 3" from each end and the main cluster. The 3.99" dimension is where I happened to click the mouse after deciding Leonard wanted the rib to end up close to it in his sketch. I would think anything from 4-5" would be fine.
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Continuing to find things to do with one hand :o :)) I started varnishing.
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/a76648683706134d/IMG_20201211_150157828.jpg)
As you can see, my bicycle wheels arrived yesterday. The hold up was the special high pressure tire.
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/184da5228377ea16/IMG_20201216_094114894.jpg)
Total weight of the wheel, tire, biggest rotor I could find, and caliper is 4 lbs. 4 oz.
I know many are using the Black Max wheels and brakes, but I decided to go this way for ground clearance of the big prop on the Verner. The landing gear is (sort of) marginal as is, and making it longer would exacerbate that. My bicycle guy swears this double wall aluminum wheel and high pressure tire will do the job. I guess I'll be the guy that finds out. :)
The bearings are 15 mm, so I'll turn 5/8" 1/8" wall tubing down to fit.
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Love those wheels. I've got the standard plastic spoke ones from LEAF. In post #157 on your torque tube have you determined the stick pivot point in relation to the front pulley? I have all the sub assemblies made up but haven't drilled the stick pivot point yet. Might be one of those field fit mysteries. (fellow Hoosier here, Floyd County, near Louisville)
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^^^^^ HTFIFPTM.
Hammer to fit in field, paint to match. :)) Most likely I'll cleco the stick assembly, mount it, sit in the seat, put my hand out and say, "the stick needs to be right *here*". Then.. make that happen.
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I haven't gotten much done, but did as much one handed work as I could. :grin: I *did* manage to varnish the wings and ailerons. I'm out of the cast, finally, and starting to do something again.
Back in the Pleistocene, I bought a bucket of AN hardware for pennies on the pound mil surplus. That's why I'm drilling these hinge pins instead of (cough cough) buying some drilled head bolts.
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/ddad434c549c6a5e/IMG_20201229_112009389.jpg)
More mil surplus hardware holding on the aileron actuating arm..
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/962d08d8d0cb0542/IMG_20201229_110805156.jpg)
Those pins and Delrin bushings are as smooth as glass, btw.
Everything installed and temporarily forgotten about. :)
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/9e41d5c1bf835285/IMG_20201229_112626191.jpg)
I like to get the wings done first on an airplane project. That way, when the fuselage is on the gear, the engine mounted up, etc.and I'm all excited.. :)) I still don't have the chore of building wings ahead of me.
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Did the biggest part of the seat today. If you don't have a shear.. take it to someone that does. :) It only takes a few minutes, so they wouldn't charge you much.
This is the way I did it. I'm not saying this is the only way, or even the right way..
Made an extra vertical member for layout. Stacked, clamped, and drilled all of the verticals.
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/2385fe918c7b420b/IMG_20201230_104503759.jpg)
Laid out, and screwed them to the table at each end. Drilled and clecoed.
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/b6266a5066843c32/IMG_20201230_143228288.jpg)
Doesn't look like much, but there is a fair amount of deburring, reassembly, etc. Took about 5 hours all in all.
Tomorrow, I'll do the rest of the clecos. I'll probably use conventional rivets, and probably rivet them in assembly in the still to be built fuselage. TBD. ;)
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Riveting takes a fair amount of "feel" with the bucking bar. Decided to just hang it up and wait until my hand heals some more. ;)
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/4fdd0db3c526a9a7/IMG_20201231_104623512.jpg)
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Formed the tail ribs today.
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/5e342492d6f19c7b/IMG_20210102_143509959.jpg)
No matter how I laid them out, there isn't enough material to make the gussets, too. Fortunately, I have some .025" left over from another project. If you see this before you order stock.. get at least another 2-3 square feet.
If you haven't seen these.. Kevlar glove are just the ticket for working with thin sheet metal. Available at your friendly industrial supplier.
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/e9a079e551484c85/IMG_20210102_150507885.jpg)
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In the spirit of "doing something every day.." :) I cut up the tail spars. Just a heads up. The material list calls for (2) 12 foot lengths of tubing. 4 are 44inches long. If you just start cutting those up, you'll be sorry. :o
I have a metal cutting blade 3/32" wide with 100 teeth for the saw. It cuts it like butter, of course.
This is what is left of one 12 foot piece if you cut (2) 44" and (1) 55 1/2" piece..
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/05aa2a7887bf2787/IMG_20210103_124719098.jpg)
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Rudder trailing edge..
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/a556ecc8e6801a7c/IMG_20210105_090319498.jpg)
There is a fair amount of spring back.
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/0b198243b0174b1d/IMG_20210105_090253210.jpg)
Since this is only 3/8", I tried a tubing bender first. Epic fail. :)) Packed it with white playground sand that I've had for (gasp) 50 years for doing this kind of stuff.
Formed the elevator trailing edges this morning.
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/5715f6efd0799a32/IMG_20210105_105831966.jpg)
Now for the 5/8" leading edges. I'm probably not man enough to cave man these.. :) especially with my still healing rebuilt hand.
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Chuck, I was able to hand bend all my empennage tubing using the little tube spring type benders (no sand) and putting a long bar inside the tube ends. The 5/8" is stiff, but once you get the bend started, it isn't too hard.
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Like many problems, the worrying about it was harder than the doing it. :) It was easier than I expected.. just packed them with sand and bent them.
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/e62436ff10682576/IMG_20210105_145442177.jpg)
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I found the same thing, Chuck: I worried and schemed on how to do the difficult tasks, and then once I finally started them, they just got done and it wasn't so hard as I had thought. Of all the skills I learned or improved while building this contraption, I think THIS is the biggest one because it applies to most everything in life!
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^^^^^ That's a fact.. :)
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Thanks for that, Pete.. forewarned is forearmed. :) I'll make sure to have a straight cable run to the rudder horn.
Nice work, btw..
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As I looked farther at your picture, Pete.. I thought I'd add this for people that may find this picture in the future. I realize that this is not the final hardware, but I see some elastic nuts where there should be castle nuts and cotter pins.
The verbiage is "subject to rotation."
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As I looked farther at your picture, Pete.. I thought I'd add this for people that may find this picture in the future. I realize that this is not the final hardware, but I see some elastic nuts where there should be castle nuts and cotter pins.
The verbiage is "subject to rotation."
While I didn't blow up the photo, to really look, I will concur with Chuck, for a pittance of time and effort, these "subject to rotation" bolts should be done with castle nuts. You never want to say, " I should have done that differently", over 10 feet off the ground.
Things like this are just as preventable as NOT making parts with no concerns of stress risers... just shouldn't be done.
Scott
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As I looked farther at your picture, Pete.. I thought I'd add this for people that may find this picture in the future. I realize that this is not the final hardware, but I see some elastic nuts where there should be castle nuts and cotter pins.
The verbiage is "subject to rotation.
Correct. As I mentioned at this stage I was just test fitting with fasteners I had laying around. Definitely not the final hardware. I'll delete the post.
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Correct. As I mentioned at this stage I was just test fitting with fasteners I had laying around. Definitely not the final hardware. I'll delete the post.
I wish you hadn't done that. I'm at this stage, and pictures of how someone else did it are always helpful. I, personally, would like to see more.
I *certainly* wasn't demeaning your work.. just giving a heads up if an inexperienced builder was following this thread. And.. I do the same. I only use aircraft hardware the *last* time I assemble something.
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I've never seen hinges done this way. If Leonard thought of it.. attaboy. :) They *are* kind of hard to make, though. Once you get good weld penetration, your slip fit on the tubing and pins is gone. Fortunately, I could run a 3/4" end mill through the big diameter. It's at least big enough if you don't have that capability that you can use a die grinder or Dremel to remove the excess.
Comma but.
What about that 1/4" diameter? Don't even think about using a drill. A 1/4" chucking reamer will follow a hole, remove the excess, not grab, etc. Unfortunately, when I laid the reamer down to take a picture, I didn't notice that the picture didn't show the flutes. ::)
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/ba4facfb4d66b034/IMG_20210113_133446907.jpg)
Like I said, pretty labor intensive. By the time I welded, sawed, milled, reamed, deburred, and drilled the rivet holes it took all day. Well, one of my "retired" days, anyway. :)
Another small bite.
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Wow, 1/4" hinge pins. I'll bet they are super strong. Leonard must have changed the dimensions just after I bought my plans. My H-51 plans show 3/16" hinge pins.
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Who needs flutes, Chuck? As Ty Webb so eloquently stated in Caddy Shack: "A flute without holes is not a flute. A doughnut without a hole is a danish."
Looking good there! I always lament that after it is all assembled, those who see it will never understand the amount of thought, sweat, and effort involved in making what they see as a finished product. After all, it's just a small airplane, right?
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^^^^ Even the "insert tab A into slot B, bend over and drive a rivet" ;) kits are a huge undertaking, but building *every* part of even a small wood, steel, fabric covered airplane is another level. That's fine. As I mentioned before, I was looking for something to do during this pandemic. :)
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Fortunately, I could run a 3/4" end mill through the big diameter. It's at least big enough if you don't have that capability that you can use a die grinder or Dremel to remove the excess.
Comma but.
What about that 1/4" diameter? Don't even think about using a drill. A 1/4" chucking reamer will follow a hole, remove the excess, not grab, etc
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/ba4facfb4d66b034/IMG_20210113_133446907.jpg)
Having made dozens of hinge type pieces before, I would like to say, that using reamers for similar holes, we can very often get a .742" then .746" and finally a .750" reamer to do the job. And do so in lengths of 5-6" (length of reamer) Same for the small side of things.
Any holes drilled are done in the large pieces, then the pieces are cut for even sizes (yes this take a little pre-planning but worth it)
This really works well for the butterfly or bird wing hinges (what ever you want to call them). You get a great deal of hinge pieces for the little bit of work required. With little practice you can get that perfect fillet weld between large and small tube. I will try to include a cad diagram showing the latter style hinge.
Best of success.
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Here's another "gotcha" for the unaware like me. :) Early in the project, I made up most of the little pieces so I'd have them instead of stopping construction to make them. Thoughtlessly, I just scaled the lightening hole locations in the rudder horn and cut them. Not good..anyone need a useless cnc machined rudder horn? ::)
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/e7eb86568ee7e07a/IMG_20210118_151501918.jpg)
Here's where they should go..
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/9934c33a680e6480/rudder%20horn.JPG)
Segment of the rib in blue, 1/2" angles in green. Ordered a piece of 6061T6 from McMaster-Carr aircraft supply for considerably less than ACS.. it will be here tomorrow.
Here's the vertical stab with beefed up 4130 leading edge and bottom rib. Hinges will be located and riveted in assembly.
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/41add75c7fd957b2/IMG_20210118_151551427.jpg)
Another small bite..
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Vertical stab and rudder hinged and ready to mount on the non existent fuselage. :)
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/8c695826a3c05efa/IMG_20210125_134614342.jpg)
Wow, 1/4" hinge pins. I'll bet they are super strong. Leonard must have changed the dimensions just after I bought my plans. My H-51 plans show 3/16" hinge pins.
Yeah, I made an executive decision. The plans call for 3/16" on all but the bottom of the rudder. I just made them all 1/4.
If someone is ordering stuff, I used up the 150 1/8" rivets called for in the materials list on this assembly. Fortunately, I have a few left over from an industrial job 20 some years ago.. ;)
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/c9d7067e80f34200/IMG_20210125_134725642.jpg)
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I've found that a pair of needle nose vise grips are just the ticket for holding gussets against the 3/8" trailing edges.
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/721184939c276651/IMG_20210127_101908526.jpg)
Weighed the first elevator half just for grins, and it weighs 15 1/2 ounces. :)
Second one in the jig.
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/15899fc50b6a53f9/IMG_20210127_112142723.jpg)
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mine are half the width of these(edge that covering is bonded to)
ohmy
Remaking these today, visiting hanger shop that has shear and borrowing a harbor freight brake.
no rivet yet, undecided which ones to use. I have the ones that came from the home center(aluminum) or the ones that came
with the John Bolding kit.
also planning to buy or borrow some clecos(was going to use nails)
Thanks for the guidance here
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Yeah, Leonard calls for 1/4" flanges on the ribs, but FAA 4313 gives a minimum edge distance of 1/4" from the c/l of the rivet. Because of that, I went with 1/2" flanges. That also means I had to order more aluminum.. :) his material list is a very minimum. Another 24X24 inch piece will do it if someone decides to go that way.
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I made my rib flanges wider, too. To make them a little stiffer, I bent about 1/8" of the outside edge downward 20° or 30° to form a modified "C" section. It's hard to see in the photo, but these rib edges are slightly bent down. The bent down edge does not touch the fabric if I'm careful not to put glue on that part of the ribs when covering.
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Very nice. Much more elegant than what I did.. (Where's that thumbs up emoji?) :)
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Typical method of jigging a stabilizer half. Naturally, a guy would want both sides to be sort of the same :) especially the ends of the tubing so they will assemble easily.
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/386165bd275e2f4b/IMG_20210129_101826949.jpg)
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Very nice work. Your photos should be very helpful to future builders.
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Very nice work. Your photos should be very helpful to future builders.
Thanks, of course that's the plan. :)
Here's the stab and elevators. I'll wait until making the pieces that join them before locating the hinges. I *almost* forgot to slide them on the spar before riveting.. :o :grin:
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/89e97d187a871ab1/IMG_20210130_150945178.jpg)
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"I *almost* forgot to slide them on the spar before riveting.."
Any job worth doing is worth doing twice ::)
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"I *almost* forgot to slide them on the spar before riveting.."
Any job worth doing is worth doing twice ::)
True.. true. Drilling out rivets is one of my very favorite jobs. :grin: I couldn't get my pop rivet gun in to rivet the rudder horn, so I used conventional AD rivets. Naturally, I put a smile in the first one. ::) It took considerably longer to drill that bad boy out than.. oh, never mind..
It sure made me appreciate that $30 HF rivet puller. It has been worth it's weight in gold.
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We're building two XL's and my partner had a pneumatic puller. Cannot imagine doing all 50,000, (At least it seemed that many), rivets with a squeeze puller. As usual, beautiful build and great pics which will undoubtably help those at this stage in the future!
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Ok, now..how to locate those bushings for the wire bracing? A guy's gotta know his limitations ;) and I know for a fact I couldn't measure accurately enough. I have this home made (naturally) strap duplicator in 1/8". 3/16 would have been perfect, of course.. but I didn't have one. Ground the end down so it would fit in the corner.
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/3de583d1b6ddff3a/IMG_20210131_095258505.jpg)
Made a dummy bushing 3/4" long minus the .035" of the duplicator and drilled 1/8"dia. through.
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/88796b39a879e9fa/IMG_20210131_101216324.jpg)
Here you can see where the hole will be.
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/ff4b9f3edd3bdf7b/IMG_20210131_103720657.jpg)
Drilled through the gusset and clecoed.
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/ed090598fb938f29/IMG_20210131_105014326.jpg)
Tapped the dummy around to make sure it was sitting as good as I could get it against the rib and spar, and drilled through. Opened the holes up to 3/16" and Bob's your uncle. :)
How long did it take? Less time than telling about it. ;)
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Officially started on the fuselage a couple of days ago. Turned the top over on the building bench so I can set it on fire. :o Looked at my fire extinguisher and it needs recharged. I'll get that done tomorrow. Laid out the bottom longerons. Leonard's sketch says 12 inches at station 4 (from memory) ::) , but my layout says 12 1/2. I'll go with that.
Bought a wheel for the bench grinder, took a piece of carborundum and hand dressed a 5/16" radius on it. That'll help with fitting up the tubing, and the wire wheel will clean them up.
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/37f201d5937c4adb/IMG_20210206_123634357.jpg)
Started fitting up tubes and tacking them in..
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/1c96db9e4a0a5bd7/IMG_20210206_122927321.jpg)
There is a potential "gotcha" in the sketches. It "appears to me" that Leonard shows the bottom of the fuselage as viewed from the top instead of the normal way of drawing a 3 view..at any rate, that is what I'm going with unless someone says I'm wrong.
Home made "third hand" holds the tubing for tacking.
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/13ff4c8b823317ab/IMG_20210206_124831719.jpg)
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Bought a wheel for the bench grinder, took a piece of carborundum and hand dressed a 5/16" radius on it. That'll help with fitting up the tubing, and the wire wheel will clean them up.
Just a heads up for those that have not done before, (clean up tubing), while the wire wheel works very well, they need to be set back just like shown in the photo, when out over the bench, they can take the clothes right off you, when done using and you turn away from it, while it is coasting to a stop. And I caution to say, if you have the option, a vertical belt sander is perhaps a lot more safer.
This is just a word to the wise, not condemning any method. And if your asking, why do they need to be cleaned up so much, this goes into all kinds of contamination issues for welding, but simply said, the welds will be SO MUCH better when cleaned tubing is used. (less as important for gas welding vs tig welding) but always true.
Also for newbies, NEVER use brake cleaner for cleaning agent.. Enough said.
Chuck is doing a great job, attn to details for fixtures really helps like he has shown.
Best of Success.
Scott
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Also for newbies, NEVER use brake cleaner for cleaning agent.. Enough said.
Thanks for that, Scott.. I should have thought of mentioning that. I use acetone after wire brushing. To anyone looking at this.. Don't even *think* of using brake cleaner.
From the google machine:
The chemical in the brake cleaner is Tetrachloroethylene. When this chemical is exposed with excessive heat and argon (used in MIG and TIG welding) it also produces phosgene. ... Google Phosgene and read more! It can be fatal with a dose as little as 4 parts per million.
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Ok, the ladder is tacked, time to bend the bottom up. A big piece of stainless tubing out of my "good junk" pile will hold it down and not have a sharp corner at the bend.
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/b12c477ccd3238d4/IMG_20210209_102434716.jpg)
I'll get my lovely assistant :) to gently pull up the bottom longerons until the bottom hits the pencil mark and hold it there while I fan the flames :o and slowly cool the bend.
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/57c7bf40ab27959c/IMG_20210209_102024875.jpg)
Awesome..
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/46e271a63036fa19/IMG_20210209_110932578.jpg)
From here, it will be a simple matter of doing the trig to find the actual angle, and cut some 2X4s on that angle to keep the longerons straight.
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Back in the olden days before CAD (!) I bought this programmable calculator, and programmed several math things I did all the time in Basic. One of them is a triangle calculator.
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/bbc86ab88223c8c8/IMG_20210209_130048332.jpg)
So I set my miter saw on (ahem) 8.17590 degrees :) and cut up some blocks to hold the longerons straight.
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/859bc918904b28d6/IMG_20210210_103200884(1).jpg)
While I was at it, cut some vertical members to hold the top longeron.
Everything is being measured off the center line of the fuselage, so I dropped a plumb bob off the side of the tubing and screwed down the clamp on the front.
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/bbe70b13bb77b9f5/IMG_20210210_111745288(1).jpg)
A piece of 1/8" aluminum holds the rear longeron on center of the tail post.
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/3a3b09bf6c9f84ea/IMG_20210210_111804941(1).jpg)
"Tweeeeet." Lunch whistle. :) I'll tack the tail post after lunch.
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Plz give advice, thumbs up?
I cut 3/8" 6061 tubing too short for trailing edge rudder. my bends/radius are good, i want to splice tubing by 'telescoping'. I when to local supplier they sent me home with 1/2" thicker wall so 3/8 fits well inside. (i went there to buy 3/8 x .035 but they needed to order.
planning to put slice just below first gusset(top) and fasten with rivets, (maybe weld) 6" piece/coupling
I DECIDED to put splice at gusset above rudder horn rib, larger gusset there, just rivet yes, Ha! trim tab mount! i like that!
Busy day, not much build time
New pic shows telescoping repair, 6" piece of 1/2" under 4 1/2" gusset lots of room for rivets,
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Sounds like it would work. I wouldn't weld on it. Of course, you'll have to answer the "what's up with the thick piece on the trailing edge" questions. You could say you thought it would be a good place for a trim tab if it needed one. :)
If it were me, I'd just buy a new piece of trailing edge and make a new one, though..
Let's see a picture when your battery gets charged.
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:)
If it were me, I'd just buy a new piece of trailing edge and make a new one, though..
Let's see a picture when your battery gets charged.
yep, on idea of a new piece, (often when I do a "piece fill" on a frame or section, it could be/would be just as cost effective, in both parts cost and labor) We use the term -throw away- in the shop, meaning it is more effective to toss than to fill in and repair. this is of course if you value your labor at more than hobby time.
best of success to you.
Scott
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i stepped up in deburring, although still use rat tail and flat file
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Chuck,
How didu cut slot in gusset @ rudderhorn?
drill and dremel?
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drill and dremel?
I have a milling machine, so.. :) I used a 3/16" end mill.
If I didn't, I have a band saw blade welder, so I'd drill the holes in the end, run the band saw stock through it, weld it and saw the slots out.
If I didn't have that.. ;) I'd use a drill and Dremel. Actually, I have little high speed "pencil grinders" used in mold making that I'd use instead of a Dremel and burr, but it will get the job done.
*Be careful.* Those things can get away from you in a heartbeat and screw up your carefully made gusset. Need I say that eye protection is a must? :o
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I can hear you now.. "Chuck, you've been slackin'" No updates for a few days. Well, I
wasted a lot of time have been practicing with the TIG I've had for probably 20 years. I've never properly learned to use it on thin wall tubing, so have been watching youtube videos, blowing holes ::) watching more videos, etc. After all, I'm doing this for *something to do.* I've always gas welded, so why not TIG this one? How hard could it be?
Real. :)
One of the *good* things about TIG is how little heat is involved. Jigging a tube up can just be some painter's tape.
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/84c5843af9b738c4/IMG_20210218_130351940.jpg)
Here you can see a plumb bob dropped off the side of the top tube that lines up with a line 5/16" to the side of the center line. Nothing fussy.. after all we are working from a chalk line, but just trying to keep things centered as well as I can.
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/e9e0ae8e9a550ae7/IMG_20210220_144857889.jpg)
Here is something that certainly caught me off guard, and may catch others. I've never seen one tube doing this job before, always two. I just happened to notice "one tube" on the sketch, looked at some walk arounds on youtube, and sure enough.. one tube.
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/7ae4fc01351be2c3/IMG_20210220_171453543.jpg)
Everything tacked in this far, and still straight.
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/75d1a10cecd474e6/IMG_20210220_170904276.jpg)
Will I be able to TIG the whole thing? I doubt it. :P I'll keep tacking and practicing, though.
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I can see that your coping skills are a lot better than mine were! My A&P said, when I asked about a bit of a gap to fill, "that's what they make thicker welding rod for!" Hmmm......
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This may be of use.. I just found it, and am headed out to try it. Trying to cope these compound angles is difficult for me.
https://metalgeek.com/static/cope_old.pcgi
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^^^ So, do you have an info mine on line that I haven't discovered? One of the reasons I'm doing this thread is I haven't found much on the "how to do, what to know" :) when building a Legal Eagle kind of stuff.
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video how to...
https://www.eaglersnest.com/forum/index.php?topic=2299.msg13092#msg13092 (https://www.eaglersnest.com/forum/index.php?topic=2299.msg13092#msg13092)
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i still have my Vemco arm around here somewhere...
When you think about Piper cubs in early 1940's just pencil and ruler. CAD is great for visual coping/notching templates are very good building tool.
Dan's video is good however, the drawn line on tube is too thick, scoring tool best instead of marker, What is maximun gap again?, .050? the thickness of the tubing right?
The wheel dressed to 5/8 and 1/2" (arbor) is what im working on, also well worn flap disk and die grinder w/burr.
SAFETY GLASSES!!!
Goto a muffler shop or custom welding shop (the pros make it look easy)
Wow tin snips, i will try that! i have quality set from parapet flashing, gutter and downspout work. One is 'needle nose'
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When you think about Piper cubs in early 1940's just pencil and ruler. CAD is great for visual coping/notching templates are very good building tool.
Dan's video is good however, the drawn line on tube is too thick, scoring tool best instead of marker, What is maximun gap again?, .050? the thickness of the tubing right?
The wheel dressed to 5/8 and 1/2" (arbor) is what im working on, also well worn flap disk and die grinder w/burr.
SAFETY GLASSES!!!
Goto a muffler shop or custom welding shop (the pros make it look easy)
Lots of ways to skin the cat here, in the case of the video listed by Dan, the thickness of the line didn't matter, in fact he made it thicker on purpose, and then grinds down till it just disappears, and the scribe works well if you have great light when grinding.
As listed here, there are several good ways to "grind to the line" and often a combination works well. There are even those that seem to make a tin snip work well on .035, but I never mastered that and had to spend as much time touching it up, as I did before the snips. A tiny bit of the process concerns time vs money, Some ways go really fast, but can often lead to do overs.
I have said it before but it bears repeating, Do a bit of calculation and cut your max length tubes first from your stock, and keep calculating down until you have only short tubes left for your short stock, it will amaze you how little waste there is. If you take from the 1st full length, and then grab the next one, pretty soon you have a few assorted short ends, but have mid length tubes to cut yet, leaving you short for those. I will see if I can find the "cut list" for max length tubes for each one. it is pretty simple and done on a spread sheet to keep track of things.
Best of success!
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Looks like that might not have worked, so here is a file that if you have Excel, you should be able to open.
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Looks like that might not have worked, so here is a file that if you have Excel, you should be able to open.
Yeah, this one works. Can you delete the other one? :)
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Ok, the aft fuselage is tacked. I think it's time to start on the front.
Here's station one:
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/1df1747cd577c997/IMG_20210226_145049097.jpg)
I'm nothing if not stubborn ;) and I've been determined to figure out this TIG thingy. One thing I've learned the hard way is a $3 Amazon gas lens does not equal a $20 Weldcraft gas lens. :)
Far from beautiful, but I'm getting (ahem) airworthy welds, now.
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/6b44508651710281/IMG_20210301_160633934.jpg)
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Your tack welding looks a lot better than mine (mig)
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Chuck's angles are on face, Kam's got'em inside, i was going to put inside too. cutting the .062 right now.
Chuck? Did you layout the mounts? ...oh wait your not using VW, going w/Verner?
I hadsome trouble with 45's they off half deg.(too much gap) so i put 3/4" ply on my saw, much better second time, I not ready to show my welds, soon though, keeping arch length short working the pedal makin' good tacks yes.
"airworthy welds" like that, can i use that one? Lol
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"airworthy welds" like that, can i use that one? Lol
Absolutely.. :)
Chuck? Did you layout the mounts? ...oh wait your not using VW, going w/Verner?
Yeah, after all is welded, I'll just lay them out and drill/ream 3/8" for the engine mount.
I hadsome trouble with 45's they off half deg.(too much gap) so i put 3/4" ply on my saw, much better second time,
I just cut them to length on the saw, set up an accurate 45 degree miter on my disc sander, and pushed those bad boys into it. Came out pretty close. Not as good as Keiths, of course..
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Link to older thread from Charles, Steve K, and Bob S.
https://www.eaglersnest.com/forum/index.php?topic=282.msg1739#msg1739
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What kind of bit is this? Can i put this in my drill press?
Im looking at buy 5/8" full round file maybe 1/2" too. McMaster Carr has 'em.
Peace.
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Looks like a "roughing" end mill. A little pricey if you buy them just for notching tubing. Don't know if they'd work in a drill press though as you would likely have to feed it to the tube from the side rather than the end like a drill. I guess you could build a jig to do just that though, maybe using a piece of angle iron that was centered on and pointed at the end mill to cradle the tube and just push the end of the tube into the side of the end mill. Might be tough to hold the tubing so as to get a good cut though.
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(donning machinist's cap) Yeah, that's a roughing end mill, called a "corn cob" or "hog" mill. They used to be eye wateringly expensive, but competition from that little town in California.. Chino, I think it is.. :) has made them affordable for ordinary mortals.
Can you put one in a drill press? Sure. Will it work? Maybe.. :)) You will have to have a *very* rigid setup, and a method of feeding a small amount at a time.
IMHO, it's easier to use a grinding wheel, etc. for the average guy.
I wouldn't attempt what you are talking about without a milling machine.. Just MHO.
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I use those fine pitch roughing mills for mostly perpendicular cuts in tubing using my lathe with a Vee block in my milling vise. They got cheap enough that I didn't use oil so I wouldn't have a mess to clean up. One will last about two fuselages without oil. If you are building one L.E. fuselage then aviation snips, a grinder and a selection round files is a better idea.
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Station one, welded (sort of) :) drilled and reamed 5/16" dia.
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/2a104f683a28e939/IMG_20210303_111159321.jpg)
Here's a tip for drilling in sheet metal. You know how you end up with a triangular hole, then the drill grabs and sends your workpiece flying, or worse beats the crap out of you? :o :)
This is how you grind a drill bit for doing sheet metal. I have a box full of these, so picked a bigger one so you could plainly see.
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/3955b6da2c81efcf/IMG_20210303_105719819.jpg)
You can grind one like this on your bench grinder. The object is to leave the point so it self centers in a punch mark, then the first place that touches is the outer edge of the flutes. It will drill a round hole, and punch a slug out in front of it. No grabbing. No cursing. No bleeding. :)
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This is about as good as I'm going to get it. No.. it's not perfect. :) It's a weldment..
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/b37cbe27a4820100/IMG_20210303_155929153.jpg)
Now, all I have to do is join the front to the back..
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You know how many disasters started out by saying "Now all I have to do is....." ::)
Looking good! Lots of good ideas to stew on. I'm still teaching myself to gas weld (Again, haven't done so since school 40 years ago!) but hope to be at this stage soon!
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You know how many disasters started out by saying "Now all I have to do is....." ::)
Looking good! Lots of good ideas to stew on. I'm still teaching myself to gas weld (Again, haven't done so since school 40 years ago!) but hope to be at this stage soon!
Yeah, I left out the last word.. "Somehow." :)
There's a reason for the old saying, "It's hard to teach an old dawg new tricks.." :grin:
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Station one, welded (sort of) :) drilled and reamed 5/16" dia.
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/2a104f683a28e939/IMG_20210303_111159321.jpg)
Here's a tip for drilling in sheet metal. You know how you end up with a triangular hole, then the drill grabs and sends your workpiece flying, or worse beats the crap out of you? :o :)
This is how you grind a drill bit for doing sheet metal. I have a box full of these, so picked a bigger one so you could plainly see.
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/3955b6da2c81efcf/IMG_20210303_105719819.jpg)
You can grind one like this on your bench grinder. The object is to leave the point so it self centers in a punch mark, then the first place that touches is the outer edge of the flutes. It will drill a round hole, and punch a slug out in front of it. No grabbing. No cursing. No bleeding. :)
I've assumed for years it was my drill press (and lost plenty of skin) LOL. I'm going to try this. Thanks!
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The fuselage, much like the "birdcage" on a Cub, has several tubes that meet in the middle of nowhere. :) Scratched my head a bit, and built this scaffolding to hold the front cockpit tube in the correct location, and fit up the vertical tubes to it.
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/3802934d60f63c2b/IMG_20210305_143238847.jpg)
Once the next two tubes are fit and tacked, the front part of the fuse will be pretty stable, and I can start fitting the tubes to nowhere at the back of the cockpit. Plumb bob keeps from "losing the rabbit" during this operation.
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I've assumed for years it was my drill press (and lost plenty of skin) LOL. I'm going to try this. Thanks!
Ok, dress a radius on the edge of your grinding wheel. That goes next to the point. Then, it's a matter of clearing the flute except for the edge while keeping positive clearance so the back doesn't rub. It's a rotation and moving the shank downward at the same time. Hard to explain, easy to show.. :)
Naturally, try to keep the point on center.
Good luck!
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Rube Goldberg has nothing on me.. :)
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/3f3b82b1f43bf4d0/IMG_20210306_154324461.jpg)
Here's the point in the middle of nowhere where all the tubes join aft of the cockpit. (Well, as close as I'm going to get with square, level, and plumb bob, scratching my head, etc.)
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/beac57a6daa04ab8/IMG_20210306_154411351.jpg)
I'll let the T88 set up overnight, and get a well deserved beer. ;)
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It does what it has to do or it gets the hose again...
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Wing attach tube located.
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/8aa3f05f7bc4b898/IMG_20210308_130115462.jpg)
Just a little cutting, fitting, and tacking and I can start tearing down this scaffolding. :)
It's too nice here today to hang out in the shop. I'm going to play motorcycle and airplane..
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Yeah, I've been slackin' again. I've been enjoying our "Spring of deception" while it lasts. :) I have managed to fit up some more tubes. Pipe straps keep them located.
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/d3fca813c7627324/IMG_20210311_090520436.jpg)
I lost a day trying to figure out what was going on with my new found TIG skilz. ::) The more I practiced, the worse I was getting. Frustrating, to say the least. Went back to square one, and found the tungstens that I had just been sharpening were contaminated and causing the puddle to look wonky. (technical term.) I'll practice some more today before tacking these tubes..
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Many years ago I bought the cheapie Harbor Freight 1x30 belt sander for exclusively sanding tungsten. Nothing touches the 1x30 belt but tungsten. I have other real belt sanders for fabrication work. For a cheap tool it has done what I want. Belts are cheaper too. Fuselage is looking good. Going to be on the gear before you know it.
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I bought a cheapy Wen belt sander for sanding some of the woodwork, and I'm using it for my "walk of shame" :) tungsten sharpening station. I've walked there a lot..
Fuselage is looking good. Going to be on the gear before you know it.
Thanks! :) I really thought it would be on the gear by now, but I lost 12 weeks with the hand rebuild.
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Yeah, I've been slackin' again. I've been enjoying our "Spring of deception" while it lasts. :) I have managed to fit up some more tubes. Pipe straps keep them located.
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/d3fca813c7627324/IMG_20210311_090520436.jpg)
I lost a day trying to figure out what was going on with my new found TIG skilz. ::) The more I practiced, the worse I was getting. Frustrating, to say the least. Went back to square one, and found the tungstens that I had just been sharpening were contaminated and causing the puddle to look wonky. (technical term.) I'll practice some more today before tacking these tubes..
Chuck, did you find that the tungsten were getting contaminated from sharpening with tools used for other things? I bought a TIG last year because I was interested in welding aluminum and used a couple different shop tools to sharpen the tungsten. I practiced through an entire tank of Argon. It seemed sometimes I was "getting it" and next day not so much. As a beginner, I found that I was sharpening the T often. I haven't had a chance to get a new tank of gas. Wondering now if I was contaminating the tungsten.
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Pete.. you know the old saying, "Those that can do, and those that can't teach?" :o :) I can teach TIG welding.. :D
I've contaminated the tungsten in every way possible, I think.
(1) touching the filler to it
(2) dipping it into the puddle
(3) not enough flow of Argon
(4) post flow too short
(5) moving the torch away from the puddle before post flow is over
(6) getting the tungsten too hot when grinding, especially using a cut off wheel to shorten it. Don't do that.. just break it to shorten it.
(7) moving the filler rod away from the argon before post flow is over. This contaminates the weld on the next start.
Yesterday, I found another. I was tacking in a cabane when the furnace kicked on and blew the Argon away. :P
When you do it right, the tungsten stays shiny after welding.
I still can't weld worth a crap. My rebuilt left hand is the biggest issue because of the subtle movements needed with the filler rod.
Edit: forgot #8 Have a dedicated tungsten sharpening station. I use a belt sander.
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i watching this, yep
i read about sharpening axial direction, i using small diamond wheel on dremel, also lantthium(spelling) breaks down not sure how fast.
Thank you!
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Cabanes tacked in. The plumb bob says I still haven't "lost the rabbit." :)
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/6197f00c146eab11/IMG_20210315_101840505.jpg)
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Pete.. you know the old saying, "Those that can do, and those that can't teach?" :o :) I can teach TIG welding.. :D
I've contaminated the tungsten in every way possible, I think.
(1) touching the filler to it
(2) dipping it into the puddle
(3) not enough flow of Argon
(4) post flow too short
(5) moving the torch away from the puddle before post flow is over
(6) getting the tungsten too hot when grinding, especially using a cut off wheel to shorten it. Don't do that.. just break it to shorten it.
(7) moving the filler rod away from the argon before post flow is over. This contaminates the weld on the next start.
Yesterday, I found another. I was tacking in a cabane when the furnace kicked on and blew the Argon away. :P
When you do it right, the tungsten stays shiny after welding.
I still can't weld worth a crap. My rebuilt left hand is the biggest issue because of the subtle movements needed with the filler rod.
Edit: forgot #8 Have a dedicated tungsten sharpening station. I use a belt sander.
LOL. O/A welding was so much easier to learn IMO. I was using this little diamond disk from HF on my drill press which works really well to sharpen tungsten but I also used it for other things probably contaminating the rods. Nice work BTW. Always enjoy your posts.
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you will get there,when built mine I tacked with mig then finished weld tig. Got in the air late 2016,about 220 hrs so far.
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Here's my tungsten grinding station. ;)
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/42598b28fc2bb092/IMG_20210315_122755385.jpg)
Naturally, nothing else touches it.
One thing nice about TIG, is you don't have to make elaborate fixtures to hold the tubing while tacking.
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/c4aa58ca21a0ecc3/IMG_20210315_154429748_MP.jpg)
Another bite off the elephant. :)
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/fc051204c23835f9/IMG_20210315_160229722.jpg)
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Time to address bending the seat tube. Packed it with playground sand, laid out the arc on the bench, and tried not to set the bench on fire, with mixed results. :)
Got it pretty close, then tweaked it with my little HF bender.
The cad says it is 34.78" radius. I laid it out 34 3/4".
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/e48ced3cc4f52b1d/IMG_20210316_123937748.jpg)
Ready to tack in..
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/8a0ffd14c405e9f4/IMG_20210316_133523793.jpg)
Now, I can finally tear down the fixture and clean up the mess. Yay..3 tubes to go, and I can start thinking about a rotisserie for finish welding.
Gratuitous picture.. :)
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/aa0c16625fec7913/IMG_20210316_151220216.jpg)
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Lookin real fine.
(https://media.giphy.com/media/Z68p4wC6kdtucNTP7q/giphy.gif)
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Thanks, Dan. :)
Here's the tube I was looking for.. the last one.
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/9fa68d345ac19fbc/IMG_20210318_141902969.jpg)
Shook *every* tube hard enough to move the table just to make sure noting was going to come loose when I tore down the fixturing.
Did that. :grin:
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/1b71cf340ed23934/IMG_20210318_165214058.jpg)
Oh, forgot to tell what radius the seat back is. The cad says 34.78" I'll edit the post with that dimension in case someone is looking in the future.
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Great looking fuselage! Super strong sawhorses.
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Don't do as I did. Forgot all the little tabs.
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Great looking fuselage! Super strong sawhorses.
Thanks, Keith.. :) The best thing about these saw horses is the top 2X4 is easily replaceable. I was looking on Youtube for something to do while (im)patiently waiting.. and waiting.. for my materials kit. Saw those.
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Don't do as I did. Forgot all the little tabs.
Uhh, guilty on the first airplane I built. :) I learned then that it had to be completely assembled with everything working before tearing it down and finishing it. Fortunately, that will be pretty easy with this one.
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Well, naturally, I had to weigh it. :grin: Looks like about 28 pounds. More importantly, I can get rid of this giant bench I've been walking around for months..
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/45607b82b571149a/IMG_20210319_103138545.jpg)
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Back in the 70s (gasp) my old friend Ed Sterba carved his own prop for his Sonerai. He's been making props ever since, and I've been running one on Mouser since the 80s. Since this version of the Verner turns the same direction as a VW, I naturally thought of Ed and asked him if he wanted to make one for it. Gave him the engine specs and how fast :) Bullet will go. 67 inch diameter, urethane leading edges, and remarkably inexpensive. Maybe he gave me the Sonerai discount..
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/93e7c7b47a43824b/IMG_20210321_145808661.jpg)
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Bullet. I like it. It is important that our Eagles are given proper names.
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Bullet. I like it. It is important that our Eagles are given proper names.
Absolutely. :)
Here's the nose art..
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/63e3d350d3cc0d74/Screenshot_2020-08-04%20mario%20bullet%20bill%20at%20DuckDuckGo.png)
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"When you at first don't succeed, give up. There's really no reason to make a fool of yourself." :))
I gave it the old college try, but decided I'd never get this thing TIG welded in my lifetime. Ordered new tips for my "Vintage" Victor aircraft torch.. with a struggle. I couldn't find any for my Antique ::) Purox. Looked at my hoses. Uh.. nope. Got some new ones. My gas welding hat had shrunk after Dorcia washed it, so I put on an old silkie motorcycle helmet liner. My goggles were scratched, etc. Fixed that. Started welding.. "Hmmm what's that smell?" I have no idea how that silkie caught on fire (!) but it took quite a bit of hair with it when I yanked it off. :o Must have been polyester.. Ran to the welding shop and (cough cough) bought a new welding hat.
Repurposed some of the box the Aero Engine came in (Guzzi content for sure) and made a gizmo so I can turn the fuselage.
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/7f5502f1074b6e06/IMG_20210324_161010393.jpg)
Continued welding.
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/20bbb16a8fda94b6/IMG_20210324_162321275.jpg)
No doubt, it will be smooth sailing now.. :grin:
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Back at it. The fuselage is finish welded other than where it's hooked to the rotisserie. Started looking at upper and lower wing mounts.The top should work nicely, but looking at Leonard's sketch for the lowers.. I'm thinking, "that won't work." :)
Did some cad drawings that will be considerably closer and generated some code for the mill. With any luck at all, I'll make the 8 fittings tomorrow. It *is* sunny and warm, though.. ;)
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/7d68f72e3f214594/IMG_20210405_130358024.jpg)
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I saw those, and thought there was no way a guy could make them from the dimensions given, so just decided to make my own. Yeah, they'll need a little tweaking with a die grinder, but I didn't have to draw every one. (shrug)
Oh, one other thing if you find this in the future.. the "materials kit" is pretty short on 3/32 material to make them. Fortunately, I have a good stash in my "good airplane junk" pile. :)
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Just for S&Gs here's how I made the fittings.
First, I said in my best Captain Kirk voice, "Computer.. take a skin cut off that scrap piece of aluminum, and drill and tap holes in the proper locations."
"Certainly, Captain."
Seriously.. this stuff is Star Trek to this old manual machining tool and die maker..
Once that was done, I could rough saw the steel and clamp it down on the fixture. These are toolmaker's parallel clamps holding it down.
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/5024136dfc93852e/IMG_20210406_123845804.jpg)
Then it was a simple matter of telling the computer to drill holes on location so I could bolt it down.
Once that was done, all I had to do was tell her to cut away everything that didn't look like a wing/landing gear fitting.
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/0401a1034ce2f20c/IMG_20210406_125107050.jpg)
Nothin to it..
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/c6bfc3ca5b34da96/IMG_20210406_154714449.jpg)
I could be burnt for a witch..
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Man, that's beautiful! Since I don't dabble in the "dark arts"I will have to be happy with the hack saw and file. :P
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Man, that's beautiful! Since I don't dabble in the "dark arts"I will have to be happy with the hack saw and file. :P
And put them on a Harbor Freight grinder diet...
I never understood how the Machinists always end up with the lathes, mills and drills, and can weld to beat hell.
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Man, that's beautiful! Since I don't dabble in the "dark arts"I will have to be happy with the hack saw and file. :P
I may have mentioned before that a hacksaw works on the Ouija board principle for me. The more I try to control its destiny, the more dismal my future becomes.. :)
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Started the upper wing mounts this afternoon. Thought I'd show a useful tool if you haven't see it before. This is an expansion reamer.
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/fda4d3d36fa59f3d/IMG_20210408_163245312.jpg)
Turn it with a tap wrench. There is a small screw in the end that when screwed in.. expands the middle of the flutes as much as .006". Let's say you used a conventional drill instead of grinding a sheet metal drill like I told you.. :) and it drilled an undersized triangular hole in the thin piece of square tubing, as they are prone to doing. The bushing stock won't go into the hole. Of course, you could take a rat tail file, or a small grinding wheel and open it up, but that is so gauche. :grin: Run the expansion reamer through it, and it will be round, and you can adjust it so the bushing is a light tap fit so it will stay located until you tack it.
Making the bushings on the toy lathe. 2 for the main spar and 2 for the rear. Of course they are slightly different.. :P
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/0357a15d66bb4d26/IMG_20210408_165646209_MP(1).jpg)
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Over the years I've tried various cutting fluids on hard materials. Anchorlube makes all the difference in the world when reaming these welded bushings. It gave a nice slip fit on an AN bolt.
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/2812df44c80dceaf/IMG_20210409_150326643.jpg)
I love it when a plan comes together.. :) The spars are 28 1/4" on center. When the 1/16" plate is welded to the inside of the cabanes, the mounts will be pretty much centered on them.
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/bc8ce3a38382f70d/IMG_20210409_153007187.jpg)
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One year and a day.
since this thread started...
WTG!
i can see why this could take someone four years to build.
... waiting on John , waiting on Scott.
a couple weeks ago i witnessed a first fly Nicholas started at the age of 16, hes 20 now,
https://photos.google.com/photo/AF1QipP7GVEw4tF08tG9kz3g0iYpvrDAdcTNdGD4Lmz- (http://"https://photos.google.com/photo/AF1QipP7GVEw4tF08tG9kz3g0iYpvrDAdcTNdGD4Lmz-")
https://photos.google.com/photo/AF1QipP7GVEw4tF08tG9kz3g0iYpvrDAdcTNdGD4Lmz-
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Hi, Theodore.. I really thought I'd be able to fly it this Summer. :) I *did* lose 12 weeks with the hand operation, but I was mistaken. As the saying goes, "this ain't my first rodeo.." :)) and I could see that it would be a difficult and time consuming airplane to build... but I was looking for something to do.
Obviously, I haven't been working full time on it, but it has filled that task admirably. Maybe next Summer? ;)
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The Kid (Brad) came down to visit for the first time in over a year (!!)and I showed him Bullet. He's uhh, fairly knowledgeable :grin: about airplanes.. runs one of the biggest GA shops in the midwest. He said, "I didn't know you were this far along. I knew you had the wings built, but didn't know the tail feathers were done, and the fuselage was welded."
To the point.. he started looking the fuselage over, laughed, and said, "do you think it's strong enough?" I told him I thought it might be a little over designed.. ;) He said, "Well, I can stop worrying about you flying some flimsy ultralight..
Back at it this afternoon. Dummied up the wing attach..
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/5e5063aa0ced5693/IMG_20210412_145137697.jpg)
Decided if it needed to be more accurate, the wrong guy was working on it, and welded up the mounts.
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/5bfab8722f53f010/IMG_20210412_165613270.jpg)
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First set of strut attach/landing gear fittings ready to be welded. A piece of junk aluminum milled to .875" holds them in location.
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/7314cc3d4cf96d5c/IMG_20210414_155625921.jpg)
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CiI - now that looks warm & fuzzy C:-) Steve
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Sorry if this is a de-rail of this thread, but I've been practicing my tig welding in hopes of getting to the point that you're at, and looking at the aluminum block scares me. The thicker plate against the thin tube is something that I think is a hurdle for a novice like me. To me, it looks like the aluminum will be a heat sink and make it harder. Is that something that OA gas welding is better at than tig?
Thanks
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^^^^ Actually TIG is a lot easier than Ox/Acetylene if there is a big heat sink like that aluminum block. Fortunately, I have both systems. Trying to operate the foot pedal with my knee or between my legs when crawling around on the floor would be a challenge for me. :)
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Tig or gas, best to angle the torch more to the bigger heat sink.
To confirm the correct angle, fire up on it at an arbitrary angle and make the metal glow.
Shut down and if the angle was right the glow will be the same on both pieces (same readiness to puddle).
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If I *had* to gas weld these fittings, I would use 7/8" bushings between the bolts instead of the aluminum block. The block just makes it easy to locate them.
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Good info! Thanks
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I thought it might be a good idea to get the gear pivot points in the same plane.
Even a blind hog finds an acorn every now and then.. :)
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/1f6de8376c242c6f/IMG_20210416_123209177.jpg)
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Welded in the fittings except for the "Hammer to fit in field" :) to make the 7/8" wide areas touch the 5/8" tubing. Did all that.. the aluminum fixture held everything in location.
comma but..
What about this area on the rear fittings?
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/19d8eaf630f796a7/IMG_20210417_154922279.jpg)
Hmmm, that's not going to work. I guess a guy could make a triangular piece to fit in there.. and then the light bulb came on. Ahh, I could make that a seat belt mount.
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/2726b6340d2dce95/IMG_20210417_161348836.jpg)
Yeah, that's the ticket. Tomorrow, or whenever I get to it.. I get to weld all this stuff up.
But now.. it's beer o'clock.
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Gave Bullet her first aerobatic lesson today. :)
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/76911c130df0b941/IMG_20210419_130950161.jpg)
Actually, I needed to weld where I'd been holding it in the rotisserie. I hadn't welded the bottom of the lower longerons, and was welding along thinking (like Wiley Coyote) I was doing pretty good ;) when there was a shower of sparks and a hole. :o Why? I had welded the rest of it with gas..maybe some contamination? What I don't know about TIG would fill several volumes. I'm pretty sure it's affected by phases of the moon.. I'll go with that. :)
The deep dark recesses of my memory dredged up "Don't I have a bronze bushing in my good junk drawer?"
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/b186d23a9d9a67a7/IMG_20210419_125611857.jpg)
Not only did I have one, but it's the exact size I needed for the tailwheel gizmo. Just goes to show you that if you live long enough, something will turn out right. :))
Ran a reamer down the tailpost to clean out the weld slag, and it slid right in.
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/5eeddc0fcab67551/IMG_20210419_132453589.jpg)
Another bite off the elephant..
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coil spring tail wheel w/boot, maybe put the levers at the bottom of rudder tube.
Wanted to ask heating and bending longerons did uyou do this with help or buy yourself? I'll read back this thread to early stages of welding...
Reply #201 on: February 09, 2021, 10:04:52 AM
This Award winning championship thread!
Thank you Chuck!
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Thanks, Theodore.. :) I'm really happy it has been of some use on your project.
On the tailwheel steering.. tailwheels take a *lot* of abuse, and I'm afraid that steering it from the rather dainty rudder spar is asking for trouble. What I'm planning is what Les Homan is using, a simple spring on a shaft on the tailpost. That's what the bushing I found is for. I'll drive it with cables nicopressed on to the rudder cables to take the load off the rudder entirely.
Just MHO.
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Continuing on the landing gear, I drew the 67" prop disc and 20" wheels per the drawings, and found I would have 4 1/4" clearance.
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/e4b310c386c30439/CLEARANCE.JPG)
Obviously, that won't get it. The Friendly Aviation Agency sez a minimum of 9 inches for a tail dragger with the tail up.
So (throwing a dart) I don't see any reason I can't raise the thrust line 3 inches (anyone?) and lower the wheels 1 3/4"
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I flew a design that had 4 inches prop clearance with the tail up... I hit hard more than once perfecting the wheel landing. Never hit the prop, but the landing gear stiffness is the controlling variable there. I hit hard...
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A little bling showed up today. :)
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/edc48203aa290a63/IMG_20210422_130535965.jpg)
It's heavy, but the military type latch is hard to beat for sustained inverted flight.. :o
Maybe I can forget to bolt it in when doing weight and balance? (whistling)
I had paralysis by analysis all day yesterday. Searched and searched wondering what people were doing with the landing gear. Leonard says to put the center of the axle under the leading edge of the wing.. or 6 inches in front. Ok, that gives quite a bit of leeway.
Comma but.
He shows the V to be on a 12 degree angle. Hmmm. 12 degrees is shown on this cad sketch in green.
(https://static.imgzeit.com/medium/c98ec45c1c1d122a/Gear%20legs.JPG)
The leading edge of the wing is 6 3/4" in front of the Center Line of station 2. I've forgotten the dimension already ::) but it seems that 12 degrees was something like 2 9/16" aft of the leading edge..if you use the leading edge of the wing, it's 19.3 degrees.
After much searching, contemplating my navel, etc. :) I decided to just go with 6 3/4". Too far forward makes an airplane difficult to wheel land. Too far aft tends to make nose overs too easy.
Time to quit thinking and do something.
Found the center line of the airplane and station 2, and quit for the day.
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/e9b22c06bcbd4c50/IMG_20210422_133248005.jpg)
Edit: Station 2. Duh.
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Since I'm going to put springs on the gear.. my runway isn't particularly smooth..the material list doesn't call for the 5/8" .049 that it needs. Oh, no problem.. I thought. Called AED in Indy (race car 4130 supplier, mostly)and he said, "Sorry, man.. I have .035 and .062, but I'm out of .049."
Rats. Ordered it from ACS and got hosed for shipping again. ;)
Started making gear parts. Found a piece of .700 dia. aluminum with a quarter inch hole in it, formed and welded the pieces that hold the axles.
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/4a6671499831f921/IMG_20210426_144346541.jpg)
Parts is parts..
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/45c93bbe596a7052/IMG_20210426_162112396.jpg)
Used the aluminum piece to keep from knocking a red hot spring stop into my lap when I was welding it. :)
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^^^^ Actually TIG is a lot easier than Ox/Acetylene if there is a big heat sink like that aluminum block. Fortunately, I have both systems. Trying to operate the foot pedal with my knee or between my legs when crawling around on the floor would be a challenge for me. :)
Certainly true on the heat sink statement. Folks, I used to teach tig welding, and there are just a few simple things that EVERYONE could do and VERY FEW want to do. That being, weld up six coupons of each 4" square and each of a different thickness, weld this to be a square cube. (metal type doesn't matter much but you will be OH so much happier with cold rolled steel) Sit that in front of you, and weld edges, corners, holes, weld up/weld down, weld beads away from you and towards you.
I would tell them when the block is covered with uniform beads, then they were getting close to welding on a airplane, dune buggy or similar. This was not often accepted, till we turned this into a piggy bank... WELDs got better, fun came into the project and life was good for all. Practice folks, and you will learn to enjoy. This goes easily for gas welding as well.
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Hi, Scott.. obviously, I'm not a TIG welder. :) I can't make my rebuilt left hand feed filler reliably. I *have* enjoyed the learning experience, though.. and am confident they are structurally sound.
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Leonard says to squeeze the ends of the shock struts..
Ok.
Milled my "found" piece of aluminum that I found yesterday,
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/062f3aaae8151882/IMG_20210427_141512369.jpg)
put it in the vise and cold formed it..
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/060d9bcf1c4e16e0/IMG_20210427_142502754.jpg)
Looks pretty good, if I do say so. :) I'll try not to break my arm patting myself on the back.It came out .618" wide.. a good running fit for 5/8".
Drilled and milled the hole and slot.
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/66bf7ab498e0493d/IMG_20210427_161200018.jpg)
the good thing now, is the machine knows where the center of the collet block and the stop is, so it will be a simple matter of drilling the rest of the holes on center.
I *love* making stuff.. :)
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Spent a couple of hours this afternoon finishing up the shock struts.
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/f2f942c0032fe8f2/IMG_20210428_145401088.jpg)
The 5/8" .049 came in, so I can get serious about putting her on the gear.
My little HF lathe did a remarkably good job of turning the 1/8" wall 5/8" axles to fit the M15 bearings. The hours spent modding and setting it up paid dividends today. :)
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/3feb372a6878f900/IMG_20210428_161941670.jpg)
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/80461717e801e614/IMG_20210428_163425764.jpg)
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I hate it when dimensions don't add up..I can't make any of the dimensions on the print work out. It says the gear is slanted forward at 12 degrees in two places. It also says the center of the axle should be under the leading edge of the wing.. or 6 inches forward.
On another page, it shows the 3/4" tube to be 24 inches long, and the rear 5/8" tube 36.
None of those dimensions work. :P
To put the axle c/l on the leading edge of the wing requires the gear to be 19 and change degrees.
I finally decided to make everything 15 degrees, but even at that the 36 inch dimension is way long.
Oh, well.. time to shoot the engineer and commence production. :)
3/4" tube finish welded to the axle tube, and the rear bushings welded in.
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/e485dd21950c1355/IMG_20210503_123819818.jpg)
With any luck at all, I'll have ol Bullet on the gear by the end of the week..
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Main gear welded and axles fit up.
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/7ecef4a34f11b0ff/IMG_20210504_161023621.jpg)
A die grinder gets rid of most of the after effects of welding, and a 5/8" reamer cleans it up.
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/67d38ff3b202a347/IMG_20210504_161203404.jpg)
Only takes a couple of minutes..but.. it is an excellent way to break a wrist and/or get slapped upside your head if you aren't careful. A half inch drill is a lot stronger than you are, and a reamer just loves to grab stuff. ;)
None of the landing gear drawings is working for me, so I ran strings from corner to corner and will build to fit.
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/9a30163eaebdd66e/IMG_20210504_165451862.jpg)
"Tweeeeet." Quitting whistle.. I'll let the second shift guys take over. ;)
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Those guys on second shift must do nothing except sit around and drink coffee.. :)
Found some time yesterday afternoon and made the V strut.
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/93e963f69505f5f6/IMG_20210507_093003017.jpg)
Finish welded it this morning, and naturally the holes wouldn't line up even though Id tacked the V in 6 places.
Not to worry. If you haven't used these, they are called a bullet.
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/cc75c8fafd0354a4/IMG_20210507_093013222.jpg)
Seems appropriate. :grin: All thread is a few thousandths undersize, and the bullet nose helps alignment. They are also the hot ticket on final assembly. Install the bullet, then drive it through the fittings with the AN hardware and a copper hammer.
Yay.. it's going to work.
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/5b5f06eaf26193f6/IMG_20210507_111951526.jpg)
I'll be able to sit in it and make airplane noises before long.. ;)
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Hi tech spring compressor..
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/33f439edaa22dff7/IMG_20210508_124455795.jpg)
Always exciting when a pile of tubing sits on it's wheels for the first time. :)
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/ffb20a6cfcfa7ed9/IMG_20210508_144628502.jpg)
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/6f29a2cb6e695ee6/IMG_20210508_144542949.jpg)
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Nice looking stance and very professional fit & finish. How long is your main gear leg from Station #2 attach to axle?
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Nice looking stance and very professional fit & finish. How long is your main gear leg from Station #2 attach to axle?
Thanks, Keith.. from this point to the c/l of the mount is 22 1/8" 22 5/8" duh. This is (of course) a compound angle with a forward sweep of 15 degrees. The V strut is less, about 10 degrees.
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/aa8b51530b36b552/IMG_20210508_194147465.jpg)
After welding warpage, it ended up with some positive camber and a little toe out. I've always said I'd rather be lucky than good.. :grin:
Edit for brain fart.
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Trimmed the tailpost to length and reamed it out this morning. Hmmm, might as well see if the vertical fin fits. Since I'm at it, I just may as well put the rudder on there and see what it looks like. :)
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/df06610fc1e68528/IMG_20210510_104844424.jpg)
A guy's gotta get a little payback for all that work.. ;)
Had my Lovely Assistant help me break the angles and start clecoing the seat in location.
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/d17ec17377fcb637/IMG_20210510_104927621.jpg)
It is still very cranky at this stage, so the straight edge helps keep everything square.
Once I have the clecos in, I'll rivet in location. This will let the seat take it's own shape, rather than trying to force it into some kind of shape.
"Tweeeeet" Lunch whistle..
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/a3174f6285a1c955/IMG_20210510_112023804.jpg)
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If someone finds this in a search, this is a rivet cutter. It works pretty much like you think it would. :)
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/10fc53a66653df33/IMG_20210510_135943949.jpg)
The idea is to make the rivet long enough to stick out of the joint 1 1/2 the diameter of the rivet. Then when the shop head is formed, it should be 1 1/2 the diameter of the rivet.
Doesn't look like much work, but it took all afternoon. :)
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/028d95bda4622aca/IMG_20210510_165243500.jpg)
After all, I was bound determined to
(1) see if I could get into it
(2) see if I could get out. :grin:
Of course the stick isn't in it yet, but I think it's going to be doable.
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Tailwheel stuff..
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/443efadbf4151161/IMG_20210511_160959166.jpg)
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Another use for my found bronze bushings.. :)
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/a09ba74f4a6b494e/IMG_20210512_092852865.jpg)
If it doesn't work, I'll always think it should have.
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/026742416530ebca/IMG_20210512_095807189.jpg)
Roller blade wheel. I thought if they are sticky enough for kids to do all those tricks, it should be sticky enough for a tailwheel on asphalt..
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Third hand holds everything for tacking..
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/e41b97cb2a0c8d18/IMG_20210513_130955819.jpg)
You can't weigh too many tailwheel assemblies on a gram scale. :) 430.
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/32e91d8bda776809/IMG_20210513_150331670.jpg)
I *love* making stuff..
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I have been using the same type of wheel for about five years. It is holding up well. Once I wore the point off of the wheel it tracked much better while taxing now that it is flat.
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Yeah, I've been slackin' but life got in the way for a bit. :)
I *did* get some non flying seat time in this bad boy, though..
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/f4b35e920915305a/IMG_20210515_153706823.jpg)
Back at it. Started on the stick/control assembly. Here's the aileron control thingy.(Technical term)
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/cccfd569c2ec5dd7/IMG_20210520_111635648.jpg)
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Beautiful example of a thingy! It should make the thingamabobs move smoothly so that the whatchamacallits work well.
I aspire to such nice welds! Thanks for the continued updates!
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Thanks! :) TIG welding has been a big hill to climb for me. Now that I'm almost done welding, I'm beginning to get it.
Maybe I should build another fuselage.. Won't happen.
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GAAA! (tearing out hair) It would be nice if the plans gave you a clue where the stick should be hinged and where the pin that drives the cables is located. ::)
I just dummied up the stick assembly, then thought, "Ultralight.. ultralight. This thing is going to need a *lot* of elevator travel."
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/32b121fc2f12b773/IMG_20210524_142620500.jpg)
This isn't going to get it.
Fortunately, I haven't epoxied the wood plug in the torque tube yet, so I can drive it out, drill a new hole about an 1nch and a half forward, and "carefully" drive the plug back in. Also, I just threw a dart and made the drive pin the same distance from the hinge as the elevator horn.
Grumble grumble. :) When I get this thing rigged and working, I'm going to make a drawing so if someone else runs into the same problem, they'll have some dimensions to work with.
Edit:
Oh, another heads up. If you get the materials kit, there isn't enough 5/8" square tubing left over if you make the wing mount fittings per print. I just bent up some flat stock, but if you don't have that capability.. be aware. :)
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I *did* get some non flying seat time in this bad boy, though..
When were you @ C77? :-)
Bryan
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When were you @ C77? :-)
Bryan
Last weekend. Brad, the guy that runs the airframe shop, is The Kid. :)
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Last weekend. Brad, the guy that runs the airframe shop, is The Kid. :)
awesome... I'm now based there with my Pacer. Have not met him yet, but have heard many great things.
have also known Ron Johnson for many many years :-)
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He's a good boy.. ;) Tell him I said hi. :grin:
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Mouser's 40th birthday flight (!!) today..
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/b1680e8f0d22cf37/IMG_20210527_110454544_HDR.jpg)
Ok ok, back to work on the stick assembly. :)
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Stick assembly almost ready to be clecoed, and rudder pedal stubs welded in.
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/8326f3a7282bfa9d/IMG_20210528_154630027.jpg)
Another nibble off the elephant. :)
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Stick assembly clecoed except for the little pulley.. I'll wait until I see where it *needs* to go, or if that matters.
Dummied up the tail feathers.. it is beginning to look like it might fly some day. :)
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/aa27955763be7c92/IMG_20210529_125048453.jpg)
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Stick assembly clecoed except for the little pulley.. I'll wait until I see where it *needs* to go, or if that matters.
Dummied up the tail feathers.. it is beginning to look like it might fly some day. :)
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/aa27955763be7c92/IMG_20210529_125048453.jpg)
Sure do enjoy this thread!
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Thanks, Steve.. :)
In the spirit of doing *something* every day, I made the stab connector bushings and the 1 1/2" long bushings. Welded the short ones to the stab connectors, and transferred the holes to the longeron, bolted it down. With any luck at all, I'll have the mount bushings welded into the longeron shortly..
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/5ec0d6da801b6f19/IMG_20210530_164221031.jpg)
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Welded the horizontal stab mount bushings. Made and welded the vertical stab mounts.Fit up the rudder, and hinged it. Bolted the elevator halves together. Drilled the front and rear stab connectors. Clecoed the rear stab.
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/a72d325fe3059320/IMG_20210601_160055018.jpg)
Whew! Doesn't look like much, but took several hours. Done for the day.. it's beer o'clock.
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I mentioned back when I was making "parts is parts" that this page didn't pencil out.
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/eeede61442616ca7/IMG_20210602_143100194.jpg)
If the stab connectors are 4", why is the elevator connector 4 1/2"?
I couldn't see any reason, so changed the drawing.
Edit: on further review, if I had to do it again, I would move the horn 3/8+" outboard.
While I was at it.. I don't mean to be a chicken little here.. but that lightening hole behind the hinge line makes that .032" elevator horn awfully weak. I left that one out. If you are flying one with the original design, I would *look* at that elevator horn at each pre flight. I have a "Jesus pin" on Mouser that I carefully inspect the same way.
Holding things in location with my ever present Delrin while clecoing the stab and elevators..
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/8ab09af82e6968ba/IMG_20210602_133759924.jpg)
Yay.. the first time it's all together. Still need to come up with rudder and elevator stops.
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/64943e4788f374f0/IMG_20210602_161717548.jpg)
Well, I had to take a picture. ;)
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/34e81bddd864a440/IMG_20210602_161637916.jpg)
Had my Sweetie come out to inspect it, (she was an inspector at GM in her former life, and you can't imagine her attention to detail) and she said it was ok. :))
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I made my elevator horn a little differently. I wanted the cable eye holes in line with the hinge pivot. The end result gave me more weld area, too.
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That's certainly a more elegant design..and only a smidgen (technical term) heavier. :)
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Adjustable up elevator stop, fixed down elevator stop, and rudder stops tacked in.
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/66fe531115859975/IMG_20210605_104715628.jpg)
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Spent the morning designing the rudder pedals and (hopefully) toe brakes, made up a kit. some assembly required. :)
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/e99477c6e510d1a5/IMG_20210607_105412848.jpg)
Fit up, tacked, and one toe brake pedal welded..
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/51360135350b8632/IMG_20210607_161006932.jpg)
parts is parts..
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Finished welding all that stuff. Ran some string lines to see where I need fairleads. Found I needed 10.. and stronger string. :)
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/d9084beb45a583ba/IMG_20210608_152851728.jpg)
Parting off some 7/8"X .062 to .490" for the fairleads..
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/6db2a42c993bf21a/IMG_20210608_153751871.jpg)
A little more progress. ;)
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For those that haven't seen Piper fairleads, here's how they work..
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/b90f26d4b99891e3/IMG_20210609_100917599.jpg)
Got some stronger string, and checked the cable runs.
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/6624dcf71ee6cbfe/IMG_20210609_112735348.jpg)
Looks good to me. I'll have to get my Lovely Assistant to come out and hold them while I tack them. Maybe tomorrow.
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Before I can run the cables, etc. I need to rig the tail. That means I get to make that fussy little fitting on the lower longeron that holds two tail brace wires.
Drew it on the cad
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/c2f2acd7a612612b/stab%20fitting.JPG)
Politely asked the computer how long I should make the blank, and she said, "with half inch flanges, that will be 3.0462, sir." :) If someone finds this in the future, she just saved you a little thinking.
Cut them out, bent up the flanges to 45 degrees, and put it in my little HF bending machine.
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/001da82bbb96e90a/IMG_20210613_101745824.jpg)
These things are so cheap that if you do any fabrication at all, you really can't not afford one. For occasional use, it's fine.. and I just throw it under the work bench so it's out of the way when not in use.
Nothin to it..
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/948116f227e41533/IMG_20210613_110459017.jpg)
Tack those bad boys on there, and another little job done.
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There's another gotcha on the detail drawings of how to rig the tail. It shows the cable fittings, bent at 45 degrees, and says "Make 10." When I'm building something, I generally make up the small parts first so I don't have to stop construction to fab something. I really never gave it a thought.. just dutifully made 10. ::)
Uhh, there are 12. 3 sets of 4 at different angles. None at 45 degrees. :) Just sayin..
In my best Captain Kirk voice, "computer, make two more of those blanks."
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/9ac3b10f438956e3/IMG_20210615_100552475.jpg)
Time to start painting stuff. Here's my high tech powder coating oven curing a bunch of parts.
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/76c1480e10dad5c0/IMG_20210615_143357679.jpg)
This is my Even Higher Tech Powder Coating Paint Booth(tm) ;)
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/2675c51e13f584d9/IMG_20210615_143108443.jpg)
Ooh.. shiny..
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/03da4a1235600a05/IMG_20210615_173852438.jpg)
Custom made cooling rack..
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/35ba5913df1e4612/IMG_20210615_151518261.jpg)
Probably a good idea I used my "Miss Piggy" industrial N95. :o
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/04364bacc1cb05dd/IMG_20210615_143557187.jpg)
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Rigging. For those of you that haven't rigged an airplane before..the horizontal tail normally sags a bit at first. Lift it until level, and fit the bottom brace wires so it can't come up any higher then level. That way, you don't lose the rabbit when tightening or loosening the upper wires to make the vertical fin perpendicular.
It is not only ok, it is approved in FAA 4313 to trim the "tits" off the ends of the cable thimbles to get a tight fit.
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/773157e2b88dba7e/IMG_20210617_104725936.jpg)
Cable swaging is much easier with 2 people, but my Lovely Assistant wasn't available this morning. So far, so good.. just slow.
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/1733fabd6d3b0517/IMG_20210617_112344159.jpg)
Some heat shrink tubing finishes the job neatly.
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Tail feathers rigged. We'll leave final tensioning until after it is covered.
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/b53c8f0cb3885eb0/IMG_20210618_142639793.jpg)
Canvas bakelite just like they used to make aircraft pulleys out of. :) This will go in the end of the control column to keep the cable from rubbing the aluminum.
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/68de2fdec4c36715/IMG_20210618_145950653.jpg)
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Maximum performance takeoff test. :) Either the airplane got so excited a little wee came out :o or the roof leaked in the rain we had last night. (sigh) There's always something..
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/7bedf798f3f684a7/IMG_20210619_105529246.jpg)
Made up a bug nut.. don't ask me where the term came from.. to hold the caliper on the rotor to see if I can come up with some kind of mount.
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/d182f19d99c9cab6/IMG_20210619_105606005.jpg)
Light would be good. Strong and light would be better. One piece, strong and light would be best. I may need to sleep on it.. I do my best work in bed. ;)
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A Gentleman in California mounted his calipers this way...
https://www.angoraaffaire.com/leu/id48.htm (https://www.angoraaffaire.com/leu/id48.htm)
P.S.
There is a cad drawing of it floating around in cyber space somewhere...
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Thanks for that, Dan.. (where *is* that thumbs up emoji?) :) Different calipers, but something to sleep on..
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(https://media.giphy.com/media/2XtEQpM97Lvhe/giphy.gif)
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Changed direction today. I had decided to make a caliper mount sort of like this..
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/d0097f326385f21e/IMG_20210620_112658079.jpg)
(cad drawing glued to some gutter flashing for fit)
and when I woke up this morning :) I thought, "Ya know.. it would be lighter and simpler, and maybe stronger to just bend up some 90 degree angles out of 1/16" and weld those suckers on there.
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/35ec5a97c4cb8eea/IMG_20210621_165034067.jpg)
Works well, and *I think* will be strong enough to drag a little downwind brake on crosswind landings. I guess I'll be the first to know. :)
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You know the old saying about airplanes, "If you want to play you have to pay.."
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/7a46b0ee6a4fcb67/IMG_20210623_144710289.jpg)
$111.54. :o :) Yeah, I could have worked around the expensive cable shackles and turnbuckle ends, but they'll make a nicer job of it.
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Amazing work! I'm a younger guy (21) who just got his a&p and started work at the local airport. I get to work on anything from small GA planes and helicopters to private jets, turboprops etc. I have been researching the Legal Eagle for awhile now. Hope to be able to build my own one day! Anyways, I find your work, especially the machining and attention to detail inspiring. I love messing around with the old lathe in the back corner of our shop that no one uses anymore. I have been trying to teach myself as much as I can. It seems to be a dying art as I have found few people who know a thing about it! I hope to be as skilled as you one day, truly great work! Thanks for the great thread you posted here. Good luck with the rest of the project! looking forward to seeing Bullet fly!
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Thanks for that, and good for you. It's always fun to see a young guy get involved in aviation. If there isn't "an app for that," most kids aren't interested.
There are some good tutorials on lathe work on Youtube. *wear safety glasses* Never try to remove a chip that is curling off the tool with your fingers..don't ask me how I know. :o
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Yeah, I've been slackin' again.
Since the drawings don't give any dimensions on the control column, I can give you some that work if you find this in a search some day..
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/373b6337d5d37532/IMG_20210701_114635213.jpg)
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/43c538b2aafe3a54/IMG_20210701_114728443.jpg)
4 inches aft, and 3 1/2 inches from the pivot to where the cables attach.
Ignore the "lightening holes" that are my first trial and error attempts. ;)
This will make the stick vertical at neutral elevator, touch the seat front at full up, and right at the instrument panel tube for full down.
Also.. the bottom of the stick needs to have a "filler" like the control column pivot area. There is a pretty fair amount of load there, and I'm afraid to really tighten the two bolts that mount the stick for fear of crushing the tube.
That's it for today.. the rain passed through, and I'm going out to play motorcycle. :)
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Decided I needed to have floorboards if I was going to
sit in the airplane and make airplane noises figure out where the rudder pedals needed to be.
So, here is where Leonard calls for tabs for that.
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/819fecca52df028f/IMG_20210708_133755003.jpg)
Made up and clecoed the floorboards..
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/4dd28afb3e064c93/IMG_20210708_165814850.jpg)
I'd say a guy really needs to put a tab on each side half way between the rudder pedals and station 1.. but I'll wait until I rivet it together and (somehow) :) reinstall it. I made up a few extra tabs while I was making them, so it will only take a few minutes and add fractions of an ounce if I think they're necessary.
Desperate times call for desperate measures..
My antique (naturally) gizmo was needed to cleco the tabs on station 2..
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/a264657a5b55c444/IMG_20210708_165846863-1.jpg)
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If you haven't seen one, this tool makes it easy to get equal rivet spacing. No thinking, my kind of job. :)
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/a98e8337d0c84cf4/IMG_20210709_134145771.jpg)
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If you haven't seen one, this tool makes it easy to get equal rivet spacing. No thinking, my kind of job. :)
I know a guy that bought a Thorp T-18 from a fellow that claims he invented that tool. Some call it a rivet fan spacer.
I asked my buddy if he patented it and he said he did not know, but he believed him. My friend's wife is biggly into quilting, and he thinks there may have been a similar tool for spacing holes and buttons.
I have not tried to search for a patent yet, but I know the guy who built the Thorp's name and it may have not been possible to get a patent because of the previous similar tool.
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Alrighty, now.. lets make up the rudder cables.
Clamp the rudder pedals in neutral.
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/1b35e6825d5068ae/IMG_20210711_133517350.jpg)
This is about right for my stubbie legs. I *can* shorten it a little, or add length to the coupler if absolutely necessary.
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/446ddead082c0d1f/IMG_20210711_170720635.jpg)
The tailwheel steering cable will be nicopressed to the rudder cable sightly aft of the rear most fairlead. Tension can be controlled by (possibly) a different spring and/or removing links in the chains.
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/8119001417ae85e9/IMG_20210711_170954043.jpg)
So far, it feels good, and *I think* it's going to work. :)
Toe brakes next, and it will be essentially complete. Uhh, there *is* that engine mount thing.. ;)
Oh, and hooking up the wings and making the ailerons work..
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Made up the parts for toe brakes (I hope) :) today. I know.. doesn't look like much, but I have 4 hours in it.
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/ba992b85b1a0966b/IMG_20210713_162757458.jpg)
If all goes to plan, there's only a matter of fitting up the sheath and running the cable to each side.
One more bite..
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Yea, I love it when a plan comes together.. :) The tail feathers wiggle, and the toe brakes give differential braking. I'll trim the cables, etc. at final assembly.
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/d33351d0e42b591b/IMG_20210716_125151643.jpg)
From here, I either have to start thinking about mounting the powerplant.. or the wings.
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By the way Chuck I must congratulate you on your builder's log. I check it out each time I'm on the forum to see what's new in your world. And not to forget Kam ( I guess you beat the Covid?) you both contribute mightyly to this forum. Keep up the good work.
Thanks much, sir. :) As you've seen, I've been slackin'. I've been saving the final push to have *something to do* this Winter. I *have* reorganized the hanger so I have room to install the wings while it is still warm in there.
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/8dc28a5f4ef83098/IMG_20211005_162809084.jpg)
But first.. Leonard's drawings call for HTFIFPTM> (hammer to fit in field, paint to match) on the 4130 strut attachments. :) It's probably fine, considering the loads involved, but "I do not like that, Sam I am.." :)
Strut material propped up against the wall, the Mighty Verner is the blue lump in the foreground.
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^^^^ The above was copied from another thread. Here's what I'm planning on doing for the 4130 pieces for the strut attach fittings.
Cut off 8 pieces of 1 1/8" diameter 4 inches long.
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/c21f43bee64dd480/IMG_20211020_103401821.jpg)
Made a forming tool that will slip fit inside the tubing..
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/ed2cab1422347e2c/IMG_20211020_142908078.jpg)
And squeeze the end in the vise. Here's the start of the 4 top pieces.
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/46befce677319005/IMG_20211020_150336237.jpg)
The plan is to bore a 3/8" diameter hole perpendicular to the flats, and weld in a 3/8" X 1/4" bushing in each.
I may not be man enough to squeeze the lower fittings another .150" or so without heat. Tomorrow should tell the tale, though.
Onward through the fog.. :)
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^^^^ .
may not be man enough to squeeze the lower fittings another .150" or so without heat. Tomorrow should tell the tale, though.
Onward through the fog.. :)
could you set the parts up in a hydraulic press rather than a vise to squeeze them ?
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Sure.. if I had one. :) The neighbor has one I can probably borrow for a few minutes, if necessary.
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Ok, Mr. Miller.. you browbeat me into doing it right. :) I'll make a little die set..
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/84d25d9c86e1f1ba/IMG_20211021_104104456.jpg)
You can see how it works.
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/f4e963200cbfb45d/IMG_20211021_141117180.jpg)
Why the collet block you say? 58 years ago (gasp) I signed an indenture of apprenticeship as a sheet metal tool and die maker. If you try to cold form this much metal, it will make the tube go oval and ruin your afternoon because it won't fit into the strut. Trust me on this.. ;)
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/8d2ad929d7ef9916/IMG_20211021_144408678.jpg)
Making the parts is anti climatic..set it in the die set, apply 20 tons..
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/e8015f333de709dc/IMG_20211021_151249138.jpg)
and as they say in England, "Bob's your uncle."
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/2c84694075ab87bc/IMG_20211021_152020247.jpg)
Whatever that means.. :)
Yay..
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/20646113aa93c57a/IMG_20211021_152122371.jpg)
"TWEET" quitting whistle. It's beer o'clock and time to bask in the glow of a job well done. :grin:
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two things: 1. a wise man once said " having the right tool is 75% of getting the job done" or something like that. 2. I want to do the same thing and I was hoping that you would take the bait and lay it all out so I could copy it. Thanks for your help
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I have not been on the forum for some days. I have been too busy with other stuff.
I am happy that this thread goes on. I have been here looking at the pictures and text many times. Great thread, excellent work, and lots to learn here.
Thanks!
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Things have been at a standstill while I waited for some 3/8 X 1/4 bushing stock. Parted it off on the lathe to the right lengths. Sorry, no picture.. you'll just have to imagine a parting tool cutting off a piece of tubing. :)
Set up the mill and used a 2 flute end mill to bore the 3/8" holes in them.
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/8ce03fffb7f98511/IMG_20211028_130037362.jpg)
If you've never seen an expansion reamer.. this is how it works.
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/1f83c617946992bc/IMG_20211028_134857572.jpg)
The more you tighten the screw on the left, the more the reamer..er..expands. Turn it with a tap wrench to make the hole any size you want within reason. I made them a slip fit for the bushing stock.
Here's one fit up.
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/36169583ad97d55a/IMG_20211028_133644781.jpg)
Nothing left to do but weld them in, so I did that.
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/a27bca84b5d0a386/IMG_20211028_152508190.jpg)
Hmmm. I'd better do a little inspection to make sure I welded them all around. ::) But that's a job for another day.
Time to seriously consider installing the wings..
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is there a difference strength wise etc. between 4130 tubing and bushing stock? The reason I ask is I have some 3/8" X .058 wall 4130 that I'd like to use as a bushing, and the ID is .259 which works well with a 1/4" bolt. TKS for your help. DA
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That'll work. I shouldn't have said bushing stock. It's normally mild steel, but it'll work, too.
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Ok, the strut fittings are done. Might as well make some bullets. Seems appropriate for a flying machine named bullet. :)
Turned a 60 degree or so angle on some all thread, and blended it with a file.
All thread is a few thousandths smaller than an AN bolt, and makes for easier assembly. Another use for them is you can drive them out with the real hardware, and they keep everything in alignment while the AN hardware is tapped home.
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/ffd1162ff2056905/IMG_20211029_151251496.jpg)
I'd be slackin on my Tech counselor duties if I didn't show you this file card. See the steel that is trapped in the file teeth? That is called "Pinning" and will turn a file into junk pretty quickly if it isn't cleaned out. Here's the file card..
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/87334079d925e75e/IMG_20211029_151343880.jpg)
A few strokes the the metal brush part parallel to the teeth, and a few with the brush. Do it religiously, and your files will last for years.
If I can get my Lovely Assistant (tm) to help for a few minutes tomorrow, we'll try a first fit up of the wings.
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for those new to the file card I'd like to relate my experience and see if you agree. When I first used a file card I pulled the card toward me with the card teeth points facing me. This seemed to more or less work. One day for no real reason, I pushed the file card away from myself. This orientation still had the file card teeth facing me but they were now moving away from me. To my surprise they did a much better job of removing the pinning. In your opinion is this the correct way to use a file card? TKS for your help..DA
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Whatever works. :)
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Do you ever "chalk" your files? I use children sidewalk chalk, (Pink is nice, but I prefer blue), and it does seem to reduce the amount of pinning while simultaneously increasing the amount of cleanup, which is an added bonus. :)
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I've heard of using chalk but have never tried it. Do you put the chalk on when using the file or only when using the file card. I'll give it a try; I have some blue sidewalk chalk.
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I just "file" the chalk prior to use and load up the grooves with it. I guess that keeps the metal filings from getting stuck in the grooves. Doesn't stop everything, but seems to keep most of it from sticking and makes it come out easier with the file card.
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A little more progress today. :) The three major milestones when building an airplane are when you first put the fuselage on the gear, when you first mount the wings, and when you first mount the engine.
2 down, one to go..
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/10f334f8b4714332/IMG_20211102_112517380.jpg)
There's always that nagging "what if the wing fittings don't match up with the fuselage fittings?" feeling, but with my Lovely Assistant's help, they went right on.
Fuselage and wings leveled, now just need to raise the tips 3 inches for dihedral and build the struts to fit.
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Congratulation on the accomplishment of the second major milestone.
That looks pretty darn good.
Always a great feeling when things come together like planned in a project—looking forward to more pictures.
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Ok, let's assemble these struts. Drilled a hole in my antique (naturally) all purpose drill press V block and clamped it on. This will keep the hole on center, and headed in the right general direction. :)
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/dc3ee61993b144a8/IMG_20211102_152644678.jpg)
One.
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/9aae5fcd3266d6f9/IMG_20211102_153929412.jpg)
Two will be just like the other one. 3 and 4, because of that weird 5 degree angle, will be a little harder. My 3/16" drills need work. It was entirely too much work to do this..
Beer o'clock. :)
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congratulation on some really fine work. Keep the photos coming. Especially on details of the weird 5* fittings.
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Two. :)
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/8f7c3e7188d1eab0/IMG_20211103_151612700.jpg)
You have to bend the crap out of the wing to get that 2 degrees washout..
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/abfa0abd4b36278a/IMG_20211103_160529811.jpg)
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per posts on the forum a fair number have decided to not have the wash out. I believe the flight characteristics were reported to be pretty much the same either way. Right or wrong I think I'll forgo the wash out. But like they say "to each his own". :)
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Hmmm. You'd think that roll control at the stall would be better with wash out. (?) I'll do a search. Thanks!
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Ok, I'm baaak. :) In a brief search I didn't see much supporting no washout. I did see where the Tailwind has none. To be expected. I have talked a fair amount with Steve Wittman (name dropping) about the reason the Tailwind was designed this way. Naturally, all aircraft are a compromise depending on the mission. The Tailwind, for instance, was designed for speed. Dihedral and washout both slow you down by a measurable amount. Not much, though, and nothing like slots for roll control at the stall.
Mouser's mom was a race plane.
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/292851f553de8000/mouser.jpg)
The original was a mid wing with no dihedral, or washout. There is a little pendulum stability with a midwing, but not as much as a high wing. That airplane is neutrally stable. When John designed the low wing, he put in some dihedral, but still no wash out. Designed to go fast, and.. it is difficult to accurately build the twist into a simple homebuilt with no struts to adjust.
FWIW, Mouser is neutrally stable in pitch and roll, and unstable in yaw. Accelerated stalls are an acrobatic maneuver for me. :) Especially to the right. I've never been able to do one of those without losing 300 feet. Would some washout help that? I would think so, or maybe just stall strips. No matter, I've been flying this bird for (gasp) 40 years.
On a machine designed for gentle flying characteristics, I'll go with dihedral and washout. :)
YMMV, of course.
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I took a close look at the wing shape on a C130. It definitely has some washout... and for the obvious reason. However:
1.) The C130 wing decreases in chord length as you move from wing root to wing tip.
2.) The thickness of the wing also decreases.
3.) It's a laminar flow profile.
So you essentially have a different shape/size wing out at the end than you do at the root. This may be one way to preserve roll control when the inner portion of the wing is already stalling.
The Legal Eagle has a Hershey bar shaped wing from the root to the tip. I believe I read somewhere that, even in normal flight, a wing with this profile is already experiencing separation over the top of the wing before the airflow reaches the trailing edge. So if you decrease airspeed and increase angle of attack, separation may have moved so far forward that the aileron is already in a stall condition. If any of this is correct, washout may be more theoretical than functional.
I am going to pass on washout and maybe avoid the internal stresses of a twisted wing. None of this was confirmed with any type of testing.
Disclaimer: I am not an aeronautical engineer, all this is just opinion.
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Interesting discussion.
Here is some information out of the J3C owners manual. Probably not very helpful in the discussion. It just explains how the rigging of the J3C was done.
All things considered, and should I ever come to that point, I would decide for washout. I am not sure if the impact of washout on flying characteristics is key. It seems to me that the impact of washout in situations where the airplane doesn't want to fly anymore (stall) is more important. I wonder how many of those who claim that there is no impact on flying characteristics with no washout have also tested the airplane stall characteristics with no washout.
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It seems to me that the impact of washout in situations where the airplane doesn't want to fly anymore (stall) is more important.
Agreed. Ideally, the stall starts inboard and travels outboard. What sold me on the Legal Eagle was watching Putt putt do some stalls and a one turn spin. It looked *very* Cub like.
Well, wash out or not, we need to make these 5 degree fittings. Here's how I did it. Bolted the fitting to a piece of scrap aluminum to keep it square and sawed it off.
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/de0f819a09f023b8/IMG_20211104_132106397.jpg)
Eyeballed the 5 degree angle and thought it looked in the ball park. Set up the toy miter gauge on 5 degrees and ground the angle.
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/e163a66c7fb94e17/IMG_20211104_132215936.jpg)
Trial fit, looks good, marked it and had my third hand hold it in location while I tacked it.
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/a16ba6f9d1b59a00/IMG_20211104_133744554.jpg)
Three. :) How about that? The 5 degrees on the drawings is right. :) At this point, both fronts are bolted, and the top left rear is bolted. The wing tip is still able to move fore and aft. I have the fuselage sitting level and square to a line on the floor. Dropped a plumb bob from the left rear wing fitting and marked it. Dropped it from the right rear, and slightly moved the wing until it lines up with the left. Well, easily within 1/8" which is as close as I can work with levels, chalk lines, and plumb bobs. :))
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/8b172dc9a9faef11/IMG_20211104_143248563.jpg)
Drilled that critical hole, said, "three." ;)
Now, it's just a matter of doing number 4 the same as 3..
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/e58445bbbc0a8f6f/IMG_20211104_165052410.jpg)
TWEEEET! Quitting whistle. It's beer o'clock.
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Thanks for this post. I'll definitely refer back to this when my time comes. Back to my wash out post. My comments were based solely on what I had read in different posts on this forum. So there was no rigorous scientific analysis of the effect of washout on the legal eagle. I do recall (but not who) one poster who said he had flown his LE with and with out the washout and he could see no difference in handling. A truly subjective conclusion. I can't remember if he commented on the stall characteristics. Also some builders talked about building the twist in when building the wing to forgo the need to
"twist the crap" out of the wing later on. So as some old time poet said, "to twist or not to twist, that is the question." ::)
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The trick with washout will be getting them the same. Normal airplanes have a fork end and adjustment to tune out a heavy wing. This will require making a new fitting.
Probably. :)
Just eyeballing it, I would think this is a "rudder" airplane, and a heavy wing may be able to be picked up with a trim tab. Dunno. That will be part of the fun of flight testing.
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Anybody thought about using stall strips so the wing does not have to be warped?
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Good day today. Made up some bushings and mounted the aileron pulleys. Naturally, I still need to make pulley guards and lighten up the pulleys themselves, but that can be done in the dead of winter.
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/a9582738a04a956b/IMG_20211105_154946451.jpg)
The plans say to put the bellcrank hinge point 6" from the strut fitting. Eyeballed that, looked ok, and used my all purpose V block to drill the hole on center.
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/9400982d43958b78/IMG_20211106_132421645.jpg)
Scaled the c/l of the holes from the aileron horn to the bellcrank, and it's about 10". Says 9" on the plans. Grandmother was right again, "waste not, want not.." :) I still have some 1/4" diameter titanium from when I built Mouser 40 years ago. Cut off a couple of pieces.
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/895973a9e44245fa/IMG_20211106_141727958.jpg)
Titanium isn't particularly easy to machine, and running a die on it with my little toy lathe was too much for it. It at least started the thread straight, though, and I ran 1" of threads on the rods with a die stock.
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/b5619afac3bd9c2e/IMG_20211106_150218358.jpg)
The plans call for forks with 3/16" holes, but what came in the materials kit had 1/4" holes. While I'm griping.. there wasn't nearly enough cable for the airplane. Very few of the bolts are the right length.There aren't enough cable fairleads, etc. If I were to do it over again, I'd just laboriously go through the plans and order everything myself instead of ordering a "kit." (rant off) ;)
Made an executive decision, and reamed the bellcrank and horn 1/4" to use what I had.
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/dfd8c95c917a85fc/IMG_20211106_153508471.jpg)
Strangely satisfying to move the bellcrank and see the aileron go up and down.. :grin:
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"Strangely satisfying to move the bellcrank and see the aileron go up and down.. :grin: "
Not that strange... Just between us girls, when my controls hooked to my ailerons I somehow was entertained with them going back and forth for at least 10 minutes, luckily nobody was there to witness such insanity ;) Looks like some nice work!
In regards to your washout discussion, washout does improve effectivity of ailerons near stall range. Theory is that when the 'rest' of the wing stalls, since your wingtips are washed out, or at a slightly less angle of incidence, the flow across the airfoil out toward the tips haven't quite stalled yet, which means there is still some effective laminar flow across the ailerons, which means they could still have some effect. That is why many airplanes like a C150 sacrifice speed and have some washout so that you can have some roll control whilst stalling for all the low time nose dragger student pilots who stall with the skid ball out the passenger window (I was that person once ::) ).
When I built my eagle I figured the aircraft was so slow to begin with it probably isn't going to make much of a difference when stalling at 21mph, and stall is an overstatement, I should say mushes and sinks at 21 mph. I knew one thing for sure is that I definitely didn't want any wash in, so I decided to go for dihedral, with no wash, and if anything, error on the side of wash out. So my LE has dihedral with a sprinkle of wash out :)
Hope this helps and keep up the good work!
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concerning the stall strip idea: If all that is required is as your picture shows it sure seems like a neat simple solution to the wing twist situation. I think I've read every post on this forum and I've never seen it mentioned or discussed. Maybe someone who is knowledgeable on the subject will chime in on this.
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concerning the stall strip idea: If all that is required is as your picture shows it sure seems like a neat simple solution to the wing twist situation. I think I've read every post on this forum and I've never seen it mentioned or discussed. Maybe someone who is knowledgeable on the subject will chime in on this.
Actually, I mentioned it above..
FWIW, Mouser is neutrally stable in pitch and roll, and unstable in yaw. Accelerated stalls are an acrobatic maneuver for me. :) Especially to the right. I've never been able to do one of those without losing 300 feet. Would some washout help that? I would think so, or maybe just stall strips.
I think it would be overkill, though. As Aaron says, the Legal Eagle mushes at very low speeds. Apparently, very easy to control. Stall strips are normally used on more high performance airplanes.. :)
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While waiting on my cable and hardware order, I made up the cable guides that bolt to the rear struts. Parted off the tubing, and faced them to .490". It needs to be a smidgen (technical term) under 1/2" for the circlip to fully fit into the Piper fairleads.
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/afacf67db1dff719/IMG_20211109_084534054.jpg)
My third hand holds everything in location for welding..
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/59756a571ed4c585/IMG_20211109_093217946.jpg)
Woo hoo.. (https://static.imgzeit.com/large/e16449cf68e03b38/IMG_20211109_143134184.jpg)
FWIW, Spruce wants $2.45 a foot for this stuff. $28.99 for 100 feet (!) and $10.99 for 30 thimbles and sleeves. FREE shipping. :) Good quality, made in a little town in California, I think.. Chino or something like that.. ;)
I love it when a plan comes together..
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/6bf1a4eebb7a69d6/IMG_20211109_162832218.jpg)
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/e7078648f4899c62/IMG_20211109_162749134.jpg)
That about does it for the airframe. Now, I can pull the wings back off, bring the fuselage back into the shop and start thinking about making the fuel tank, oil tank, and mounting the engine.
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Awesome sight! I’ll be glad when I get that much done,I am just starting.
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Ok, I can't put it off any longer. :) I've seen many efforts to mount the Verner on youtube with mostly problematic endings. Breaking welds, engine shaking, etc. Here's what I'm going to attempt.
(https://static.imgzeit.com/medium/47568688652b5a19/mount%20ring.JPG)
The yellow is station one. The engine needs to be raised 3 inches for prop clearance.
The four small diameters are the locations of the engine mount holes on the Verner. Those will be 1/2" diameter 1/16" wall 4130 tubing that is welded to the four rectangles in purple. They are 1"diameter .035 tubing that will be split to hold some motorcycle engine vibration isolators I found on the net.
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/a60e742bd448d00a/IMG_20211115_163308953.jpg)
They are metric, so ream them out to 7/16" so I can use AN hardware, and turn them down to .930" to fit inside the 1"diameter .035 tubing.
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/aa63b76f0d849d3a/IMG_20211115_163447504.jpg)
There will be bent up 1//16" pieces that weld to the mount ring in light blue, and will be bolted to the isolators.
At least, that is the plan so far. Stay tuned. :)
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These will be the flanges that weld to the mount ring. The flats will be bent up 90 degrees. Bolts will go through the holes to hold the vibration isolators. Rather than laboriously drilling, band sawing, and filing the 1/16" 4130, I'm headed out to a water jet shop.. :)
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/935d6df30f20a2f1/LE%20mount%20flange.JPG)
There (hopefully) is method to my madness. All will become clear in a week or so.
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Another little bite off the elephant. :)
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/ff2f9447626b7b01/IMG_20211119_140247974.jpg)
An AN3 will squeeze the 1" tubing on the isolator, the assembly will be bolted to the engine casting with an AN6 after I ream out the casting to 3/8".
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Brackets folded up, and maybe the plan is a little clearer?
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/f720b21266e8c87a/IMG_20211120_105345766.jpg)
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Ok, proof of concept looks ok, time to make the real thing. I wasn't liking what I had with the TIG, so gas welded them. Cleaned up the inside with a die grinder..
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/3d7b0c820f9e5975/IMG_20211126_131501538.jpg)
And band sawed the slots.
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/8d40b53fe5e30332/IMG_20211126_132117917.jpg)
Can't put it off any longer.. :) I'll have to try to form the tubing circle that I have drawn a few posts back.
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Attempt number 1 to bend that stupid circle. This is some canvas bakelite that I've had for ever. Nasty stuff to work with, but it is flat, stable, and *I have some.* :) The four 3/8" diameter holes around the periphery are where the Verner manual says they are. They specifically forbid welding on the engine, so this piece of bakelite will hold the vibration isolators in location while tacking the folded pieces to the circle.
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/5a7f34bb5ad4bdde/IMG_20211129_133429852.jpg)
My motorcycle tire changer gizmo bolted to the floor to hold it.
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/306e9714cec45a69/IMG_20211129_151637889.jpg)
Packed the tubing with playground sand, and found a piece of stainless tubing that just fits over the 4130 for leverage. Theoretically, the sand will keep the tubing from crimping.
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/3d780129df8b5a56/IMG_20211129_153909449.jpg)
Well, we really didn't think it would work, did we? Tomorrow, I'll get out my heating torch and see if I can set something on fire.. :o
If that doesn't work, I'll think of making an octagon instead of a circle, but that would be a lot of cutting, fitting, and welding..
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Chuck,
Bend tubing all the time here, and generally use a inner die block with the radius you want and a outer follower block.. both of these have the tubing exterior tightly held while bending. (nothing inside) There is tremendous pressure on all sides of the tube when the process happens.
not sure what kind of tubing size your using, but perhaps even a conduit bender with your heat will work better than your block.
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Thanks, Scott. My original plan was to make dies like you mention for my little bending machine, but it isn't big enough for that. Harbor Freight makes a tubing roller for 1" tubing, but I hated to spend the big bucks for a tool that I would only use once.
Hmmm, a conduit bender isn't *that* expensive..probably could rent one.. if today's method turns out as poorly as yesterday, I'll give that a try. :)
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Just to add a bit more to this Chuck, (and anyone else doing this) With your tools that I have seen in the photos, you do not need to make the die blocks to fit your bender, Rather, the inner die block is held in your vice, with the outer die block held with two tie straps to the axis line of the inner die block.
of course you need to hold or maintain the tubing prior to the bend (actually the whole time) but I know you would figure that out.
Depending on your radius, you can make many little bends, or one larger one for the part. Make a mark on your tubing and die for consistent bends (can't guess here) i.e. if you have a mark every 6" and bend to your next mark, and repeat, you should be on track. Might be clear as mud, but hopefully clear enough.
lastly the conduit bender works for some tubing, not all, i.e. you can't bend 1/2" tubing with a 3/4" OD conduit bender.
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If you are a member of EAA, watch this video: https://www.eaa.org/Videos/Hints-for-Homebuilders/Tube-Fabric/6231259463001
Basically, cut a piece of strong wood (I glued two pieces of 3/4" plywood together) to the radius of the bend you want, then route a groove the same radius as your tube. Make a U to go over the tube while in the groove, drill a hole through it and the form wood and use a bolt or pin to hold it in place. Bend the tube as needed.
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Thanks to you guys for the tips. I think I've said before, though, that once in a while in a project, you need to shoot the engineer and commence production. :grin:
Heating sort of worked, but it was very fussy just how much heat you use. Just a little too much and.. oh well. I did get two quarter circles that are pretty good. I was thinking the best I could do would be two half circles. I have just enough 3/4 tubing left to finish it if I do this:
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/4850e8dfae5be230/IMG_20211130_161804739.jpg)
Yeah, I could drive down to Indianapolis and (cough cough) *buy* more tubing.. :) make some tools, and do 2 half circles.
Or, I can cut up what I have and finish this job. I'll take door number two.."Sometimes, a guy just needs to know his limitations."
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several smaller quarter pieces looks like it will fly! i'm no engaear dat fer sure, im da guy that builds their cocktail napkin sketch(underbudget and ontime).
enclosure is my bending short cut...
You know why theres no architects is heaven?... Sorry Scott.
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No. Tell me why there are no architects in heaven..
Wish I had your mad coping skilz. :)
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Fit up and ready to tack.
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/57321add97980eba/IMG_20211201_122912592.jpg)
Engineering change complete. :)
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/16ce1c0d9d5ac8eb/IMG_20211201_154108864.jpg)
Headed out to the hardware store. Tomorrow should tell the tale.. fingers crossed that the Verner mount holes are where they say they are..
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Assembly fit up and ready to tack.
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/ed349c5f1451a3f4/IMG_20211202_101601008.jpg)
Tacked it, took it off the fixture, and headed out to the engine to see if the mount holes would no kidding line up before finish welding.
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/681073c1836a390d/IMG_20211202_104352297.jpg)
Whew! :) It's a pretty good buzz when things work out..
Time to make some dummy isolators so I don't set the rubber in them on fire. :o
What's the purpose of all this, you say? Every mount I've seen on Youtube that actually works ;) is really heavy looking and complicated. This doesn't weigh much. Will it work? TBD.
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...Jesus was a carpenter
Thanks for the compliments on coping skills
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Finish welded all that stuff and yay, the holes still line up. Need I say that it's pretty easy to warp a fairly complicated weldment? I'll try not to break my arm patting myself on the back. :)
The mount holes on the Verner are .345". Weird dimension that fits nothing. I like to have a ream fit on aircraft fasteners, so used the mount as a reamer jig to ream for an AN6 and keep the hand drill perpendicular.
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/162d48885dbdcf43/IMG_20211203_133501317.jpg)
Sweat bullets a little.. after all these engines are NLA and the last time I looked they wanted $10,000 (!) for one.. :) but all is well.
Now, I have to figure out how to mount the ring to the airplane. I'll let that thought marinate overnight. ;)
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After sleeping on it :) here's what I came up with. These are 3/8" ejector pins used in mold making. They are hardened, ground, and straight.
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/895f0407c025b36a/IMG_20211204_143945504.jpg)
I drew 4 2X4s on the cad drawing, and printed two full scale drawings. Cut a piece of plywood, put center lines on it, and stapled and glued one of the drawings on it. Spent some time setting up the table saw to be square and cut the 4 2X4s. Screwed them down where the drawing said.
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/89c2ca85134aa2c7/IMG_20211204_143340262.jpg)
Since I had drilled the engine mount fixture on the cnc, the mount holes are perpendicular and a tap fit for the ejector pins. Lined the pins up with the drawing on the firewall, and screwed the fixture down.
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/ed552e1468acc6ff/IMG_20211204_143359067.jpg)
You can barely see the 2X4s sitting right where they should be on the fixture drawing as a check to be sure I didn't screw up. :)
I've always said I do my best work in bed.. :grin:
Done for the weekend. I need to run to Indy to pick up some 4130.
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I'm baaaak. (Ahnold reference) :) We've been out in SoCal making it rain for the last month or so. *somebody's* gotta do it, and I have a super power. That means of course, that I couldn't ride my motorcycle, but I took one for the team.
Let's see now.. where were we? Oh, yeah.. mounting the engine. Bolted up the weldment I made last year to the canvas bakelite piece, and screwed that to the 2X4s. You can see the aluminum pieces that replace the vibration dampers to keep from burning up the rubber when welding.
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/94e5922d34b0b18a/IMG_20220113_170251152.jpg)
Now, I need to make some spools that bolt to the firewall, and then it's just a simple matter of fitting tubes between the mount, firewall, and welding. (he said, knowing there will be issues.) :))
If I had thought this through, I'd have had the water jet guy cut these out, too. Probably would only have charged a couple of dollars extra. Oh, no.. I'd rather take an hour or two, lay them out, drill, ream, make them round on the lathe.
Dummy. :)
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/6c5978a12b0e093a/IMG_20220113_125513429.jpg)
That's it for today. Stay tuned..
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Fit up and tacked all the tubes. Since I don't have Theodore's mad coping skillz :) it took all...freakin...day. Tacked it all up, and whew. I didn't weld it to the mounting bolts, one of my biggest fears. The bolts came right out.
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/55c73162a842ac53/IMG_20220115_161223507.jpg)
I'd bead blasted the crap out of the bolts (to get rid of the plating) and ground flats on them to still hold location, but give a minimal area for the weld to stick.
I think I've mentioned before that I love it when a plan comes together? :)
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/5b5e414028631adb/IMG_20220115_162903381.jpg)
Tweeeet! Quitting time. It's beer o'clock.
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Mickey Mouse setup to ream the mount tubes after welding..
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/5287ccbce19cb80c/IMG_20220117_123917771.jpg)
Checked fitup and it still bolts to the firewall. :)
Yay.. bolted right up to the engine.
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/7970d7a3be448d60/IMG_20220117_161124674.jpg)
Another bite off the elephant.
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Hey Chuck, you do excellent work! But you knew that :D Do you come back and reheat the tig welded areas for stress relief?
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Hey Chuck, you do excellent work! But you knew that :D Do you come back and reheat the tig welded areas for stress relief?
Thanks, and welcome to the forum. I was always a fan of heating after TIG welding, but my understanding is if you use the correct rod it is not necessary. Just the same, I gas welded the engine mount, and other areas where I wasn't comfortable with TIG. TIG has been a learning process for me, and I used this project to force myself to learn how to (sort of) do it. :)
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Alrighty, now.. :)
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/dfe123ab263d743b/IMG_20220118_093827644.jpg)
Naturally, ol'Bullet is nose heavy without the tail or wings on.. so I was rummaging around looking for something small and heavy to put in the back.. well, duh. :) A couple of thousand bullets will do the job.
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/b657a49cd7225dd1/IMG_20220118_093908926.jpg)
And.. well.. I just had to look at it for a while and stick the prop on there. (shrug)
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/85006597094328bb/IMG_20220118_102925719.jpg)
Hmmm, looks like that should be adequate power. :grin: Time to start seriously thinking about a fuel and oil tank.
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Beautiful work as usual. Looks like an Ed Sterba prop. Is it?
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Beautiful work as usual. Looks like an Ed Sterba prop. Is it?
Thanks, and yeah.. Ed's an old friend from back in the Sonerai days. I'm still running one of his props on Mouser.
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One of the banes of my existence is fuel in the wing. Looking back over the years, I've had nothing but trouble with leaking tanks and senders. Cut the fabric, remove the tank, repair the leak, put it back in, baseball stitch the fabric back over the tank, paint, etc.
Also.. I have visions of cracking that delicate leading edge trying to fill the tank with a 5 gallon can.
So.
I dummied up a 5 gallon tank.
3 point attitude. Seeing forward is overrated. :)
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/566a3daf7bd3cd43/IMG_20220120_140115085.jpg)
Level flight..
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/c40bf4dba6f30c7f/IMG_20220120_142334049.jpg)
I don't like it. I'd have to have two outlets, a remote shutoff, and if I had a sight gauge, it would interfere with the stick at full down..and.. my leg getting in. I really don't like adding complication or weight. (grumble grumble.) I'll spend the rest of the day seeing what others have done. If anyone has an answer, I'm all ears.
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Look at Les Homan's tank. His may be the shape you are looking for. Here is his ORV build video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yW2IYmqf_Fg&t=670s
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I was just Les's place last weekend, if his tank is 5 gal, then the other one is far larger. in the below photos. If anyone wants to supply measurements, I can tell you inside volume in minutes.
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5 gallons equals 1155 in3. That is what I have dummied up. The more I look at it the less I like the fuselage tank, though. I'll sleep on it.
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Slept on it and had one last look. Nope, I can't fill it from the back with a 5 gallon can, and I don't want to fill it from the front.
While I was thinking about that, I made a sorta like oil tank and had a look. It's just under 5 quarts, and the Verner uses 3. I'll face it forward because Les said what I was originally thinking made the engine run too cool
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/bccbb0103d94f106/IMG_20220121_162701111.jpg)
Decided to go with a wing tank. I'll put it in the right wing, because I've found that when I'm getting in and out I use a hand hold right where the fuel line would run.
Here's the shape.
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/479404d02684701b/IMG_20220121_165853954.jpg)
Making that shape 5" thick will put it right at 5 gallons.
For mounting, I can weld a piece that will sit on the diagonal and bolt to that. In front, I will weld a couple of tabs and screw them to the spar root filler block.
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This will simplify that oil tank..
https://shop.spunaluminumgastanks.com/Spun-Aluminum-Gas-Tank-Oil-Tank-Catch-Tank-U-weld-Kit-6x10-UW610.htm
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Learned a fair amount today. :)
(1) I don't have a big enough piece of poster board to make a full size prototype.
(2) My box break isn't big enough for 5 inch flanges, so I'll have to make a top and bottom with 1" flanges.
(3) I needed to tweek the dimensions to get it to fit in the wing.
(4) That means the sides need to be 5.2" high to hold 5 gallons. There is enough room, fortunately. :)
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/309963b4e743bcd3/IMG_20220122_141354429.jpg)
It's all interesting stuff, naturally, and learning is what building an airplane is all about.
Now, let's see if I can weld aluminum.. I spent the afternoon running beads, and went from horrible to tolerable. :) Not too bad, considering I've never done it before. I'm still a long way from welding a fuel tank, but.. learning some more. That's a good thing..
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Back at it.. I've had to do a little *cough cough* work. :)
Sawed and sheared a top and bottom of the fuel tank today. Ran some stiffener beads on my old HF "Pexto machine" with home made (naturally) dies
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/7c2a068b77511471/IMG_20220126_155543631.jpg)
Somehow managed to not make two bottoms or two tops..
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/ca6f9a322f604b38/IMG_20220126_164641245.jpg)
and called it quits for the day.
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You are not going have fun welding that together. I just did two tanks for Globe Swift IO- 360 conversion and built them somewhat differently,
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TIG has been and will continue to be a learning experience for me.. :))
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TIG has been and will continue to be a learning experience for me.. :))
As in all aspects of craft building, (cars,planes and any metal related, items) the art of Tig welding is just that, art.
With that being said, and these are just generalities with huge differing results.
Welding alum, varies considerably by make up of alum (3003,5052, 6061) how clean it is. (can't be to clean) and fill rod. Pre-developing your hand-eye-foot coordination, is all important. But alum tig welding adds even a bit more to the element of nice welds by NOT having color change as a cue, but rather the change of the "look" of the metal seam.
I have and always will recommend the "practice test block" --simply being, 6-4" coupons, and if possible of various thicknesses. When these are welded into your block, and then completely covered with weld lines (seams) Then if working well, you might be ready. I can go into all the reasons this helps, but I would suggest stop reading, and start doing. By the way, the same exact thing can happen with gas welding.
You may find that you can make perfect seam welding, if you have it laid a certain way on your bench, and horrible welds if in a slightly different position. The wealth in this, is finding out what works best for you. A perfect example is that how I weld holes shut in tubes is completely different than the fellow that taught me, but both of our methods work well.
Best of success to you all!
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Thanks for that,Scott. I have *plenty* of .040" 5052 that I picked up at OSH.I'll make up a block or two when I can get back to welding. Austin is running the CNC mill right now, and I'm not about to take a chance on smoking the control. :o Don't ask me how I know this can happen.. :)
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4 boxes of boolits hold the bottom flat against the bench. The one on top is all that is necessary to hold the top flat. Yay. :)
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/b0931ff48e3557da/IMG_20220127_152441060.jpg)
The plan is to cleco it all together, drill the various holes, and rivet it together with aluminum pop rivets as necessary. Then..(ahem) simply weld it all up and weld over the pop rivets.
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/469276f81ebaa274/IMG_20220127_151733444.jpg)
If it doesn't work, I'll always think it should have.. :)
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You are going to have trouble keeping the sides from warping with that lap joint. Aluminum really likes to grow when heated. Keeping a tight fit up will be next to impossible. Lots of quick tacks and move around, don't dwell. Good luck. You will learn a lot.
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You'll want atleast one baffle or two to stop some fuel movement and hold the top and bottom together.
this is a pic of my tank (joe engelman design). it's upside down doing a pressure test. We use a metal panel on top of wing to cover tank,so is easy to remove tank.
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You'll want atleast one baffle or two to stop some fuel movement and hold the top and bottom together.
this is a pic of my tank (joe engelman design). it's upside down doing a pressure test. We use a metal panel on top of wing to cover tank,so is easy to remove tank.
I was hoping that it wouldn't be necessary.. but easy enough to do. That will be tomorrow's project. On your tank is it where I can see the two rivets that have been welded over?
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the baffle was riveted in and then weld rivets
installed tank
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Following. Nice work guys.
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Chuck, this may be a bit late for you to consider. I've made three alum. tanks, one for our Legal Eagle, two for our Double Eagle. The first, for the LE, I made overlaps like you show. And, like Wayne said in a previous reply, it was very difficult to keep the flat panel tight against the turned down flange. On the two for the DE, I laid the flat panel on top of the turned down flanges. The bend of the flanges help to keep that part from moving from heat, and the flat panel overlaid on the flanged part can be held tight with weights (but maybe not bullets?) in the area of initial tacking. As Wayne said, put small tacks all over, and keep the heat build-up low by moving from one area to another area while tacking (and, also, while finish welding). I did use alum pop rivets to hold things together, then welded over them at the end. Here are two pics showing the welded up first tank, and showing the parts of the second tanks before welding.
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Thanks, guys.. good stuff. I went down a rabbit hole looking at fuel tank design this morning. Probably should have done that before designing a tank. :) I really couldn't find *anywhere* that gave volume/baffling requirements, though.
On this site, I see Les says it isn't necessary, and Frank's tank doesn't have baffles, either.
Just the same, it looks like a good idea to me, with only a minimal weight gain.
Thanks, all! :)
Oh, and Tom? Not to worry. They are just bullets for reloading.. not loaded cartridges. :grin:
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Mike's tank is excellent. With the flanges bent outward, you can edge weld almost the entire tank , which is fairly easy and fast. don't dwell when welding and let things simmer down. too much heat can do horrible things to nice straight piece of thin aluminum. pre tack!
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Fit up a baffle today, and was starting to finish it, drill some 1" dia. flanged holes, file, sand, etc. when I got the feeling I was screwing up. I have visions of fuel sloshing and working the aluminum pop rivets that hold it in. Hmmm. Have I mentioned how much I hate fuel leaks? Especially in the wing? :) My gut feeling is to leave it out, but I'll sleep on it.
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/3eaf521d7a5c5e6f/IMG_20220129_165424257.jpg)
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The way you have built your tank, you could use Proseal and sealing rivets. a lot of wet wings are done that way... Mooneys for one. Then there would be no welding and probably just as lite. Just a thought. There are different brands available. kind of messy but it works.
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The way you have built your tank, you could use Proseal and sealing rivets. a lot of wet wings are done that way... Mooneys for one. Then there would be no welding and probably just as lite. Just a thought. There are different brands available. kind of messy but it works.
Thanks, Wayne.. I'll let that thought marinate for a while, too.
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If you do decide to glue the tank together, get bungs with flanges, you can glue those also. if using weld in bugs do those before tank assembly.
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Ok, decided to go with it. I'll use AD rivets around the sides and bottom, and pop rivets on the top. Drilled some holes..
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/6b4c0ea967c206f8/IMG_20220130_132643240.jpg)
Formed the flanges..
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/7d271e67087b8537/IMG_20220130_140425779.jpg)
and it will look sorta like this.
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/8d4ef95e34de554f/IMG_20220130_140958277.jpg)
Still have to radius all the square corners, polish, etc. but that is a job for another day. :)
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If you are going to weld it Don't use AD rivets, they are a 2117 alloy which are not weldable. Use soft rivets they are weldable and are the same alloy you are using. BTW you do nice work.
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If you are going to weld it Don't use AD rivets, they are a 2117 alloy which are not weldable. Use soft rivets they are weldable and are the same alloy you are using. BTW you do nice work.
Doh!! I shoulda known that when I typed it. :) Thanks..
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Fuel tank clecoed. Oil tank in the background.. some assembly required. :)
Now all I have to do is practice welding aluminum..until I'm confident I can do it. (whistling)
A nice project for a snowy day, and another bite off the elephant.
Edit to insert a gratuitous picture.,
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/ba210742af19fa9f/IMG_20220203_154745130.jpg)
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As some sage once said, "A man's got to know his limitations." :)
I can weld thick aluminum pretty well. I can run a nice bead if it's laying flat with this .040. I can weld over pop and conventional rivets. I can fill a gap as big as 3/16".
However, I'm not happy with what I have. I'll just take it to my old friend Scott, and have him do it. I would probably waste enough argon practicing to pay him..
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/829ed80df1af93ec/IMG_20220205_145844810.jpg)
I learned a lot, though, and that's always good.
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As some sage once said, "A man's got to know his limitations." :)
I can weld thick aluminum pretty well. I can run a nice bead if it's laying flat with this .040. I can weld over pop and conventional rivets. I can fill a gap as big as 3/16".
However, I'm not happy with what I have. I'll just take it to my old friend Scott, and have him do it. I would probably waste enough argon practicing to pay him..
Chuck,
I am not so sure that you are not on the edge to what you need to have because I think that your corner welds were pretty close.
Just some quick thoughts,
Clean, I mean super clean?
Not sure which welder you have but you do have the green tip tungsten?
AC setting?
For this, you may be happier with 1/16" tungsten blunted tip, not sharp like for steel
And your on the AUTO-Clean setting on the welder (some try to beat this setting, but is hard to do)
A tiny bit matters on the fill rod, but hardly enough to talk about.
Did I say clean?
Gas lens? I mean are you using a "gas lens" these will flood the weld area SO MUCH better. Not a requirement, but a great help.
Some insist on various pulse settings, they tend to give me a headache, but some really like it for the Timing of heat-fill-move.
The beauty of tank welding is that you can move the tank to nearly always have it flat for the weld, this may require both stool and chair (height) , but certainly at a bench or table.
clean, if you clean one hour before welding, that is almost to long, as oxidation can set in pretty fast.. so we clean/dry/weld. Bing/bang/boom.
I have watched your work all along, and I can taste how close you are.
Best of Success~
Scott, the other scott.
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Thanks, Scott..really clean.. no. I was trying to get worst case scenario. I didn't clean anything, although it was fresh material. I purposefully made some gaps.
I am using an old transformer square wave 351. 30% positive. 3/32 blue tungsten, sharp point with a small ball on the end. Gas lens.I have some 1/16" pure tungsten, but I didn't do as well with it for whatever reason.
Thanks for the info, but I'm sure Scott can do a better job, and have I mentioned how much I *hate* fuel leaks in the wing? :grin:
I'll be comfortable tacking stuff to take to him.
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I re-read some of what I wrote, and I would like to be the first to admit, I made a couple of errors.
Don’t use green on the AC side since pure tungsten will ball up, especially if you’re using an inverter
And the 3/32" will probably work better for you than the 1/16" that I mentioned.
cheers
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From what I've found in hours and hours of watching TIG instructional videos, green with a ball used to be the method of choice on a transformer machine.The arc tended to wander for me.
Of course, red and green were about the only thing available when this vintage (all my stuff seems to be vintage somehow?) machine was new. :)
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Sometimes, building an airplane is just labor. :) Spent the afternoon making tags for the strut end fittings so I didn't have to solve a Rubic's cube when reassembling the struts after powder coating them.
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/469872a9d9be440b/IMG_20220210_152308414.jpg)
It *will* be putting something together for the last time, though.. a milestone. (where is that thumbs up emoji again?)
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Will they still slide into the strut after coating? Sometimes powder coat can get pretty thick. do have your own oven?
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I'll try not to get carried away with coating thickness, but good thought. I'll do one first instead of all at once.
Sure, I have an oven.. :)
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/76c1480e10dad5c0/IMG_20210615_143357679.jpg)
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Will they still slide into the strut after coating? Sometimes powder coat can get pretty thick. do have your own oven?
Sometimes when the fit is super tight, we fall back to Cerekote, very very thin...but when the need calls for it.
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Chuck, what gun do you use? your oven is bigger than mine. The Cerekote sounds interesting. being a ceramic probably tough. I will have to look into it.
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Chuck, what gun do you use? your oven is bigger than mine. The Cerekote sounds interesting. being a ceramic probably tough. I will have to look into it.
The toughest part of CereKote, is the clean up... holy cow, you delay in the clean up or don't get it cleaned up correctly and you just as well toss the spray gun.
Most of you powder coaters know this, but there is a vast selection of heat proof tapes/plugs and stickers, where you want NO powder (paint) at all. Worth the effort to put into place, where needed. i.e. slip joints, threads, tapped holes and the like.
Best of success.
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Chuck, what gun do you use? your oven is bigger than mine. The Cerekote sounds interesting. being a ceramic probably tough. I will have to look into it.
Hey! I spent the big bux and went to HF and spent about $60. The oven was free in the classifieds. (Legal Eagle content) :) Actually, it does a decent job, and a 70s oven will outlast me, unlike a 2020's oven. :)
Coating thickness wasn't an issue, really. The powder coat adds about .003" to the diameter, and there was .005" clearance. Mostly. The tubing isn't perfectly round.
Cleanup is the best thing about powder coating. Spraying paint is all about cleaning, prepping, then spray 15 minutes, and clean up the rest of the afternoon. You can clean up the powder gun and highly expensive cardboard box you use for a "paint booth" while the last job is curing in the oven for 15 minutes. I'm a fan.
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I have found that powder coat with its flexibility tends to hide things. On two annual inspections, I found corrosion on powder coated engine mounts. There was only a bulge in the coating. I think a crack would be hard to detect unless it was working a lot. Paint with it's brittleness tends to break when things are bad on the sub straight and is more detectable.
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I have found that powder coat with its flexibility tends to hide things. On two annual inspections, I found corrosion on powder coated engine mounts. There was only a bulge in the coating. I think a crack would be hard to detect unless it was working a lot. Paint with it's brittleness tends to break when things are bad on the sub straight and is more detectable.
Oh, I get it. I'll not be powder coating the engine mount. I'm going to be watching it like a hawk. :) What I'm powder coating is the myriad nickle and dime "parts is parts."
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In the spirit of "doing something every day," I added some lightness to the aileron pulleys.
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/fd26a4dfe25b5547/IMG_20220212_130756471.jpg)
Made some pulley guards out of .032" 4130.
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/87a92f631f14934d/IMG_20220212_161741505.jpg)
Doesn't look like much, but it took the best part of the afternoon. :)
More stuff to powder coat..
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Here's my high tech powder coating setup. The little yellow box is the high voltage power supply. There is a piece of all thread across the top of my cardboard (ahem) paint booth. the ground wire from the high voltage box is hooked to that.
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/851804823555e3ed/IMG_20220213_134237192.jpg)
When the powder comes out of the gun, the particles have a positive charge and are looking for ground. Particle number 1 sees ground and lands. (the parts are grounded by hanging from the all thread) Particle number 2 sees ground also, but where number 1 landed isn't as good of a ground, so moves over to bare steel.Particle 1 million is also looking for ground, and finds the best ground to land on.
Pretty simple, huh? It wraps around round stuff, goes into holes, and gives a pretty good covering with no skill involved.
Put the parts in a 375 degree oven for 15 minutes, and they are done. As soon as they cool, they are ready to use.
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/e853499cc7c4117c/IMG_20220213_141002641.jpg)
Easey peasey. I painted a bunch of small stuff today that would have been a PITA otherwise.
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Really nice color. I lost my spirit with cancer. The engine is done but not run yet. Still have to cut a prop. I've made some of the wing parts. Just not sure if I will live long enough to finish..... lost a lot of my enthusiasm. A few months ago, had to the sell the Stinson, that was hard.
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Really nice color. I lost my spirit with cancer. The engine is done but not run yet. Still have to cut a prop. I've made some of the wing parts. Just not sure if I will live long enough to finish..... lost a lot of my enthusiasm. A few months ago, had to the sell the Stinson, that was hard.
Oh.. too bad. I feel for you. I'm 5 years out from prostate and kidney surgery myself. So far, so good. I was restoring a 30 Monocoupe at the time, but after that, I couldn't get into it any more. My kid will have to finish it.
The color is a nod to John Monnet. :) I built the first flying Sonerai 2L uhh 40 years ago. (!)
Stinsons, huh. At one time I had 5. (!) A flying 108-2 and my wife's Franklin powered 10A. 3 parts planes.
We are probably brothers from another mother.. ;)
Good luck, and hang in there!
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Chuck, is that the HF powder system? Another tool I wanted to try and used it to coat my brackets and such. Came out pretty good for having never used one before. I found a used extra large oven on CL for $25. Do you think it would be a good upgrade to replace the ground wire with a little heavier gauge wire and larger alligator clip? It seems the ground connection is critical.
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Chuck, is that the HF powder system? Another tool I wanted to try and used it to coat my brackets and such. Came out pretty good for having never used one before. I found a used extra large oven on CL for $25. Do you think it would be a good upgrade to replace the ground wire with a little heavier gauge wire and larger alligator clip? It seems the ground connection is critical.
Yeah, it is from HF. I think the ground wire is fine, FWIW. It will send a fat blue spark to ground if you get too close. :)
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For me, there is always a bit of a buzz when assembling something for the last time. Even something as simple as this rudder pedal/toe brake assembly.
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/ee7a70f94e531607/IMG_20220214_131654822.jpg)
5 1/2 ounces. :)
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Ooh, shiny. :)
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/a578883ff6df5b96/IMG_20220216_141656078.jpg)
There were dents in the original floorboard where it is unsupported by tubing underneath. I thought to myself, "self.. it's only going to get worse in service, and will be a PITA to fix once the airplane is all together." Just make a new one, and put a couple of stiffeners in the unsupported area. Made a couple of angles out of .020" 2024 with half inch legs and riveted them on.
I needed something to do today, anyway.. :)
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And now for something completely different. The Verner comes with an S&S carb.. like on a Harley Hawg. Let's see now.. the Verner is 42 horsepower.. uh that sounds about right. :grin:
The problem is.. if something happens to the throttle linkage on a motorcycle..you want it going to idle. That is the way this carb is set up.
Accelerator pump side..
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/853b76412a3e8073/IMG_20220219_102230729.jpg)
It has an equally big spring on the actuator side, so I took that off. Rats! the accelerator pump spring slams the throttle plate closed, too.
Off it comes.
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/5eb5da67a561aba0/IMG_20220219_102929084.jpg)
Of course, that disables the accelerator pump, but I don't think that is much of a problem on a carb that goes, "one thousand one, one thousand two, one thousand three" from idle to full throttle.
As you can see, an aircraft carb is spring loaded WFO by a very small torsion spring.
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/d370a46f03050b48/IMG_20220219_104336753.jpg)
I don't have any music wire that small, so I'll have to order some from McMaster Carr aircraft supply and wind a spring..
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Rummaged around in my music wire area, and found some .055". Close enough. The first spring I made works. :) Made up a Delrin bushing, reassembled, and quit for the day. Some days you get the bear.. ;)
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/8002095193a5b7ef/IMG_20220219_161718131.jpg)
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Ordered some stuff from Amazon aircraft supply for the panel. It hasn't come in yet, so designed the panel with the only thing I have, an old tach I've had for years. It's 2 1/8" diameter.
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/64aede47e29259a5/LE%20panel.JPG)
Going from left to right, Master switch, ignition, tach, volt meter, oil pressure, starter button, and mixture enrichment for cold starting.
Made the box and punched the hole for the tach I have. Welded a couple of 3/8" square tubing on station 2 to bolt it to.
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/e5f62a8c96e4b337/IMG_20220225_152336076.jpg)
Why do that, you say? Getting the throttle 3 inches closer for my short arms to reach is a good thing. I'll hinge it off the bottom of the box. Also, most of the electrical system will be inside it.
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Taxied around for a few minutes. :) Decided where to mount the throttle lever and how long it will be. The humongous starter button is rated for 20 amps, so that will simplify the wiring, I think. The mixture enrichener is just a spring loaded plunger. I'll make a simple knurled knob to clamp on the cable.
Had to taxi back in.. my lips were getting tired making airplane noises..
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/3d881ea4cc835ba8/IMG_20220226_144926774.jpg)
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You should have posted a short video so we could hear your "engine".
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potato potato potato.. :grin:
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Thank you. Your panel looks great.
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Made up a couple of bug nuts.. hey, I didn't name them, that is just what they are called.. for the throttle cables, and assembled all of it on the bench.
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/51762bacdf8a9597/IMG_20220301_152019773.jpg)
Throttle assembly working smoothly. I'll try not to break my arm patting myself on the back.. :)
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/4f43a54f789f3756/IMG_20220301_162712886.jpg)
Still have to add some lightness to the throttle lever, but that is a project for another day.
Another bite off the elephant.
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Back at it. Shamelessly stolen idea from Tom's Tree hugger.. :)
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/4ceb5d56594b68b2/20220316_141706.jpg)
Didn't have any hydraulic tubing, so just blackened the ends of some 6061 T6 with acetylene and carefully burned the black off with a neutral flame.
Not particularly beautiful, but ought to work..
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/f7f8e1c6c0fc585b/20220316_141851.jpg)
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Real nice. Should work great.
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Called all around central Indiana to find the one store that had this one particular battery. Why? Well.. it's green. :)) Probably over kill.. 280 cranking amps under 2 1/2 lbs. I'll need it shortly, with any luck at all.
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/224372d22ce71269/20220320_104518.jpg)
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This whole fuel tank build could be a tutorial on how not to do it. ::) :) I should have made the side flanges on the outside, then wrapped the top, bottom, ends around them. With the flanges over the sides like this..
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/a19e06dd5042ec1d/20220328_154211.jpg)
as soon as you strike an arc, the flange opens up. More and more clecos had to be added and then the holes filled. Way too many hours involved in welding.
Live and learn, they say.. :)
Fits nicely, though.. finally.
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/c7da3204bc0c4af8/20220328_154200.jpg)
One last leak check, and I can bolt it in.
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That's a great looking tank..!
(https://media.giphy.com/media/xUOxfdmeqZLDHNMS76/giphy.gif)
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Thankya Dan.. but I should have done a better job of designing it to make it easier to weld. I've always said that building an airplane is just solving one problem after another until you run out of things to solve. :)
The next problem will be designing an oil tank. I'll freely admit to shamelessly stealing another of Tom's ideas..
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/fd1e8e20f0d2078f/20220329_110832.jpg)
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Tony Bingelis seems to like the "external lip" edge weld flange... Very easy to clamp especially if you have the small Cleco side grip clamps. The process could be to make lighter 2 inch tacks skipping around until these are all connected. Then make a second heavy pass, never stopping or starting at the same place as before... Here is a link to the full article by Tony from Sport Aviation, December 1986... and a graphic I snatched.
https://www.eaa.org/eaa/aircraft-building/builderresources/while-youre-building/building-articles/fuel-systems/how-about-an-aluminum-fuel-tank (https://www.eaa.org/eaa/aircraft-building/builderresources/while-youre-building/building-articles/fuel-systems/how-about-an-aluminum-fuel-tank)
(https://www.eaa.org/eaa/aircraft-building/builderresources/while-youre-building/building-articles/fuel-systems/~/media/5129451e992542eaa03be8495c5e08c3.ashx?la=en&h=774&w=568)
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If you haven't seen one before, this is a shrinker/stretcher. It has serrated jaws that either clamp and push the metal together or pull it apart. Bent up a piece of 4130 with 5/8" legs and proceeded to give myself a blister on my palm. :o :)
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/b6de1335a0baac4a/20220330_101946.jpg)
Ended up with a couple of pieces that fit the curvature of the tank.
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/a07fc9951ffce73a/20220330_163657.jpg)
Since the mill was set up for an industrial job, I just clamped some high tech plastic down and cut two pieces to keep the tank from deforming when drilling the 1/2" and 1" holes.
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/df4b3ceb22137913/20220331_155152.jpg)
It's also useful for jigging the tank in location to figure out how to mount it.
Like so..
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/d3729876504c99b3/20220401_154037.jpg)
I've mentioned before that I do my best work in bed, :) so I'll sleep on how to *somehow* mount it to the engine mount tubing.
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Ok, if I'm going to fly this summer, it's time to get with it. I had some .020 stainless from when I made the bungee box on the Pitts.. er.. 40 years ago. (!) Just enough, actually, so didn't want to screw this up. :)
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/baaad4c63c391f72/20220406_151536.jpg)
This is left over from the clear belly on the Pitts. It will be the windshield, some assembly required. 1/16" polycarbonate.
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/9e755ea7bf8e67cf/20220406_151610.jpg)
All this stuff needs to mount on the firewall. Guess I'd better mount the engine for the (ahem) ;) last time to see where it might go.
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/f9089b5007941eb7/20220406_163151.jpg)
That coil pack is pretty large. I first thought in might fit above the oil tank, but it would interfere with getting the filler cap off, and draining the carb would put fuel on it. Nope. Looks like it will have to be above the battery on the inside.
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/eee2c2b989db917e/20220406_152440.jpg)
The regulator can fit between the engine mounts on this side, and the fuel pump can be centered near the bottom.
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/22e8d5172d056f8e/20220406_164310.jpg)
Carb cables will go through a hole in the wind screen.
Beginning to see some light at the end of the tunnel.. :)
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Had a second Covid booster yesterday afternoon, and didn't feel much like doing anything today. Made a paper windshield, though.
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/a18bf6866f241ba5/20220407_142712.jpg)
Now, all there is to do is shear and break on the lines..
(https://static.imgzeit.com/reduced/9248d29de7b29650/20220407_155428.jpg)
and another little project is pretty well along. :) It shouldn't take much to hold it on, slide the front under the firewall, and weld a few tabs for screws. I want to make it easily removable so I don't have to stand on my head to service the battery, etc. :) I'm getting too old for that crap. :P
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Windshield looks great! How large a sheet of plastic did it take?
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Windshield looks great! How large a sheet of plastic did it take?
Minimum would be 36"X40"
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Made some tabs and welded them on today. Clecoed the windshield.
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/56d1a1a769e7de3c/20220410_145402.jpg)
Now.. the acid test. :) That paper has been on the plastic for.. uh.. maybe 40 years. It *will* be a trick to get it off. Naptha didn't touch it. That's what is supposedly used for cleaning. WD 40 showed promise, but while it attacks the adhesive, it softens the paper so it doesn't have enough strength to peel. Tried isopropl alchohol, and that may be the answer. It will be tedious, but at the very worst I have a template for making a new windshield with fresh plastic. :)
Naturally, I've been experimenting with scrap. I'll let it set over night and make sure it's not doing something weird to the plastic before starting.
If anyone has any secret paper remover, I'm all ears..
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Getting that paper off was a lost cause. I thought, "Oh, no problem, I'll just order a 48X48" piece and make one with fresh plastic.
No big box store locally has 1/16 polycarbonate. One guy did manage to beat Aircraft Spruce's price of $179.66 :o :o
Called around and found Piedmont Plastics on the West side of Indianapolis. "Sure, we have it, how many sheets do you want?" "One half." :grin: Silence for a couple of seconds. Then.."Yeah we can do that. come pick it up." 30 bux. :) :) Some days *you* get the bear..
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While I was thinking about the plastic problem, I mounted the battery, coil pack, and voltage regulator on the firewall.
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/0e042b69648834f1/20220413_160546.jpg)
Made up a new windshield..
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/5399acf26ff29cdd/20220413_160517.jpg)
I may weld another tab on the longeron between the two mount screws. That is a fairly large distance. I'll sleep on that.
Having a windshield I don't care about makes it easy to lay out a hand hold.. hmm, about there. Make it plenty big. :)
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/9663a0a05253045d/20220413_161809.jpg)
Tomorrow should see the windshield done, and the engine mounted again to make sure where the plug wires will come through the firewall and the fuel pump mounts.
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The mount holes need to be opened up for thermal expansion in the windshield. Many years ago, I had an industrial job of drilling thin plexiglass. The accepted practice at the time was to grind a negative rake on the drill flutes and sort of melt your way through it. Then, you had to deal with serious deburring. I discovered these 1 flute drills for that job, and they have been my go to method of drilling thin plastic ever since.
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/a625d07402ac4e40/20220414_110308.jpg)
I can see better through this windshield.. :)
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/bcdad6d7a8d64473/20220414_112535.jpg)
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The last major bit of fabrication under way.. :)
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/6a07794749fa5e92/20220416_112546.jpg)
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(Snapping suspenders, tamping corncob pipe) Back in the day, a guy had to actually think to lay out a truncated cone. Formulas had to be plugged in to get the dimensions and then lay it out.
Now a days, these children have it too easy. They can just say, "computer.. print out a truncated cone 2.3 inches at the top, 1 inch at the bottom, and 1 1/2 inches long.
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/6b384bb296534d5a/20220416_084505.jpg)
I'm tellin ya, these kids have it too easy, and they can just stay off my lawn.
:)
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/20e2703dc1a932d5/20220416_142742.jpg)
Thought I'd have an oil tank, but ran out of argon..
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Well, not "beautiful," but it will probably hold oil.. :)
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/9e7a6a3ee9476cf7/20220419_164559.jpg)
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Looks beautiful to me!
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Thanks, Keith.. but a *real* welder would do a better job. Just the same, it's a lot better than when I started this project and couldn't do it at all. :) After all, "Education and recreation" is why the FAA lets us do this stuff. TIG has certainly been an education. :P
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Getting into the "last 10% that takes 90% of the time." :) Finished the oil tank, marked locations in the firewall for the wiring and fuel line to come through. Decided where the fuel pump will go. The next time the firewall goes on will be the last time.
After considerable thought, I decided it would be much easier to put gussets on the engine mounts now instead of realizing I should have after the airplane is flying. ;) Tacked them in.
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/1f113a92a7a3e35f/20220420_164641.jpg)
After they are welded on, the engine mount is ready for bead blast and paint.
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HI
With the type of vibration a radial makes, I think the gussets are a good idea. What's the weight difference between the !/2 VW and the the 3 banger. Do you think you will come in under weight for 103?
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Yeah, I thought long and hard about adding the few ounces of the gussets and finally decided they just might be worth the weight.
The Verner actually weighs a few pounds less than a half VW. (!) However.. the coil pack is pretty heavy, it has a fuel pump, and the starter and ring gear add up, too. Just the same, it's *going* to have a starter.
I'll bet it will weigh right at 254 pounds. :) It will certainly meet the spirit of the regulation.
Hope you are doing ok, Wayne..
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Mowing day today. Since the next time the Mighty Verner goes on the airplane will be the last time, I made an engine stand so it wouldn't be hanging from the hoist while I'm doing that last 10%.
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/3e921fdfdd65329a/20220421_162456.jpg)
Another small bite off the elephant.
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I noticed the ailerons weren't covered yet. Have you decided what system you are going to use for for covering? I've used Stits for years but Stewart systems seems nice also because it might not shorten my life quicker than cancer.
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I have some of the old Stits 90x (?) extra light weight fabric that hasn't been made for years..and a couple of gallons of poly brush. I was laying in bed last night thinking of Oratex. It's even lighter.. just has that down side of being expensive. :)
Need to make that decision soon.
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Finish welded the engine mount, took it off and weighed it. 3 1/2 lbs. Not too bad, considering it is also the oil tank mount. I've seen what appear to be fairly heavy Verner mounts.
Continued taking stuff off. :) Making progress, now. Almost forgot to weld in the aileron stops. At least I had marked where they need to be when I had the wings on and rigged.
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/247fb37d676ec609/20220422_160208.jpg)
The gear comes off tomorrow. That is the last thing..and the fuselage will be ready to prep and paint.
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Despite having too much polyfiber stuff sitting on the shelves (past the expiration date), I'm going with Oratex due to 1- weight, 2- no spraying, 3- much faster to install. My builds/restorations are taking too long.
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I get it. Certainly much faster..but..the last quote I had was $3500 plus fondling :) and shipping. I *have* enough Stits stuff that is just going to waste. (shrug)
Still haven't decided.
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Continued with disassembly. Turned it all around and touched up a couple of welds.
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/0a94e27daae89320/20220424_100007.jpg)
Parts is parts.. :)
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/aac3cbc55b8f1d4c/20220424_143415.jpg)
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"Bullets" nose art.. :)
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/9635e07235c9b7fa/20220427_191426.jpg)
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Whew! Spring honey doos finally (mostly)complete. Time to get back at it if I plan to fly Bullet this summer.
An old repurposed gas bottle.
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/ae2fe541e295f8b7/20220517_151704.jpg)
I put a globe valve on the bottom to control how much sand (garnet, not sand)gets mixed with about 60 lbs. of air.
Made a high tech filter funnel to reclaim the garnet..
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/a5a0b846adc06371/20220517_152837.jpg)
Proof of concept..should get the job done.
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/ab27e05d2f8dd887/20220517_154639.jpg)
As an aside.. I'm a *much* better welder, now, after welding everything. I've seen guys build another airplane because they don't like what they did when they were learning. Beyond here lies madness.. :) I will finish what I couldn't get to when kneeling on the floor with the foot controller between my knees, though.. :)
Now, I just have to wait for a day when the wind sock isn't standing out so my garnet doesn't blow away.
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Well, the weather isn't cooperating.. I may have to blast stuff in the hanger. :o ::) Started on covering the tail feathers. Adhesive tape over the rivets, and two coats of poly brush on the horizontal stabs and elevators.
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/5c707fcaf6d09477/20220525_101552.jpg)
I haven't been totally slackin' though. Mouser's 40th (!!) birthday is the 29th, and she's out of license. I always try to at least break the surly bonds on her birthday, so did the powerplant part of the annual inspection today.
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/7c3562edd6fd67f4/20220526_145943.jpg)
I'll do the airframe part tomorrow, then I can get back to the Legal Eagle.
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I sure would like to see that landing gear on the eagle. Not real thrilled with eagle gear.
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I sure would like to see that landing gear on the eagle. Not real thrilled with eagle gear.
Agreed, but it's too heavy for an ultralight. Of course, I'll always land as lightly as a thistle down, so it shouldn't be a problem with the LE. :)
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Finally had a calm afternoon, and blasted the welds with my (ahem) highly engineered rig.
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/e671531853899f83/20220528_140940.jpg)
I can get the tubing with emery cloth and Scotch brite. Cleaned up the mess and managed to salvage most of the garnet. (cheap legal eagle builder content) :)
If I were 20 years younger, I'd have gone ahead and painted it.. but I'm tired and it is beer o'clock.
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Went ahead and bead blasted the rest of the parts that I could get in the cabinet. Decided if I couldn't paint that stuff, I may as well start covering. :)
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/cf725306fcb8f0dd/20220606_143720.jpg)
Tools of the trade:
Paint brushes
Scissors
Single edge razor blade
Small and large iron for shrinking fabric
Teeth to chew the glue off of fingers. :)
First horizontal stab covered.
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/abd5099687354337/20220606_165456.jpg)
Now, an iron at 250F ran over everything a few times will pull out the wrinkles, and 350F will bring it to final taughtness.There will be more, but that comes later.
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Be careful shrinking the fabric on vertical stab. Some people have bowed the bottom rib while using 350 deg. heat.
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Here is what mine looked like at 300°
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Be careful shrinking the fabric on vertical stab. Some people have bowed the bottom rib while using 350 deg. heat.
Thanks for that. I made the bottom rib out of 4130.
Oh, forgot. This is the old Stits HS90X lightweight fabric that is NLA.
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Here is what mine looked like at 300°
Neatly done (of course) Keith. :) I just did the stab at three fiddy without issue.
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Not much warp on the 4130 bottom rib of the vertical stab..
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/076a34323412ccd5/20220608_162751.jpg)
However, after reading of it being a good idea to make the leading edge out of 4130 also, I did that.
Probably not a good idea.
Apparently, the leading edge said, "I ain't moving.." and the spar said "I give!"
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/af258d67f0c14163/20220608_162838.jpg)
Hopefully, it will still all go together at final assembly. :P
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Finally got a calm (!) day, and painted the fuselage, landing gear, engine mount, etc. with Poly Fiber epoxy primer. I know.. it's only epoxy but wore a paint suit anyway. Whew! I was soaked with sweat, and when I pulled off my rubber gloves, water literally poured out of them. :o I'm getting too old for this stuff. :D
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/10742a5593d2c8c7/20220610_143836.jpg)
Hung stuff to cure, carefully detailed the paint gun, and called it a good day.
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/047b1dc7092673c2/20220610_144051.jpg)
Not stripping and cleaning each part of the paint gun will make a fine anchor for a very small boat when shooting epoxy. :grin:
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Yer not too old... Yer just the right age to enjoy what you do.
It shows..!
(https://media3.giphy.com/media/pmBiPmKQKmsvP34NnI/200w.webp?cid=ecf05e47ix9lr2c6cu0p8fq23uhcixbsplefbknt32tesxcx&rid=200w.webp&ct=g)
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Well, live and learn as they say..
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/22077ce2d4df64ed/20220612_100924.jpg)
I'll make a rib to beef up the vertical stab.It looks like it wouldn't hurt to put another rib in the rudder, too. :P
I really don't like not bringing the fabric up to 350. I've seen loose fabric in Indiana Winters..
Oh well. I'll cover the fuselage while thinking about it.
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Let's cover the fuselage.
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/158f4fc228d25e0e/20220614_103244.jpg)
Ya know, I just *knew* that this was the old light weight Stits HS90X. Never even looked at the stamp. ::) It's regular fabric. I have it, though, and I'm going to use it. (shrug)
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/1d3c168fc09f030d/20220614_155442.jpg)
First coat of Poly Brush and a pretty good buzz. :o Time to leave the shop for a while. :)
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/09a58d51a03fcc9c/20220614_165208.jpg)
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Now for the hard part. :) Tapes and reinforcing patches. Take your Aircraft Mechanic's Embroidery Hoops (tm) put some fabric in it, and shrink it with a 225F iron. Make a template, draw around it, and cut it out with your aircraft pinking shears. A little OCDness helps with taping..
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/4d2f27f10a999ab0/20220615_110731.jpg)
Like so..
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/1056859740407fb5/20220615_111403.jpg)
then a wet coat of poly brush is painted on, the reinforcement laid into it, and a dry brush is used to stipple it so the dope works up through the fabric.
Why didn't I make these in one piece? My embroidery hoops aren't big enough.. :) I'll see if my conscience makes me go (cough cough) buy some bigger ones. :)
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Now for my least favorite thing about making airplanes.. :) laying tapes.
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/ff76be7bb5101725/20220617_093049.jpg)
Tomorrow will be spent sticking down every one of those little pinked triangles with the tip of the iron.. :P
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/32b23c1e5c69a878/20220617_154910.jpg)
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another bite off the elephant..
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/cc78b392cda12683/20220618_110818.jpg)
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It's fathers day today, so I didn't do much. :) I *did* spend a couple of hours ripping off the old covering, making a rib and gusset, riveting it together, and putting a couple of coats of poly brush on the tapes covering the rivets.
I'd recommend doing this. After all it is near the hinge area, and the 3/4" spar is unsupported for a considerable length.
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/72e0e23a4b525b39/20220619_144834.jpg)
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Great idea & great work, as usual.
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Thanks, Keith. Not up to your standards, but airworthy. :)
Here's the vertical stab with the extra rib, shrunk at 350F, and one coat of poly brush.
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/12dfae4d29f2f70d/20220620_151354.jpg)
For those that have never used the Poly fiber system, the first brush coat is applied very heavily, and those runs you see on the inside of the fabric are a good thing. That means you have put it on heavily enough to fill the weave.
What you *don't* want is for it to drip on the other side when doing this. Those will eventually show through the finish coat.
As you can see, the 4130 rib bowed some, but the aluminum spar is still straight even at 350F. For those that aren't to this stage yet, I highly recommend that added rib.
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/d59c755ce3312059/20220620_151411.jpg)
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Looks great! Better than my puny work, and much stronger.
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Covered an aileron today. Shrunk at 350F. :) IMHO, a properly designed structure won't warp, but then I've never built an ultralight before..
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/bfa9967327aea2c9/20220622_152242.jpg)
While waiting for the poly fiber to dry, I tinkered around a bit with the gear. Powder coated the shocks and tailwheel assembly. Assembled.
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/0dc8cb7a5a30452b/20220622_170734.jpg)
Why put the gear on before the fuselage is painted, you say? From here on, everything needs to be sprayed. I want to do all the spraying at one time, and it will be easy to mask the belly. It will also be much easier to move around once it is on it's wheels.
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Nice, straight TE on aileron. Beautiful work on everything, as usual.
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Nice, straight TE on aileron. Beautiful work on everything, as usual.
Thanks, Keith.
I may have ruffled Leonard's feathers a bit recommending that extra rib in the vertical stab, but I'll stand with it. :)
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you're not the first. Sam Buchanan recommended the same some 10 years ago.
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Getting to the fun stuff, now. :) The gear is on for the last time with the real AN hardware. I really like doing this stuff.
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/a2c2941ab53839d0/20220623_124010.jpg)
Stuck the "bullet" nose art on for grins. I'm not sure if I like it or not. Maybe at final assembly with the engine mounted, it will look different.
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WOW! That looks great.
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I like the big wheels and disc brakes and the Bullit logo.
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Oops I mean Bullet O:-)
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This is why I like the Poly Fiber process. This is poly brush that I peeled off the bottom of the mixing cup, and it is totally flexible. It stays that way, too. I'm a fan. :)
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/881009097b6b0e5e/20220625_110707.jpg)
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This morning I decided to touch up all the places I couldn't get to when the fuselage was on the rotisserie and those places I just plain didn't get heavy enough while trying to spray outside in a gentle breeze. Made up way more paint than I needed because it would only take a thimble full or two. Fired up my air brush and painted everything in about 5 minutes.
Now.
I've mentioned before that if you don't totally strip and clean your gun when painting epoxy it will be toast. Pro paint shops sell a kit of brushes of all sizes, pins for cleaning out really small holes, etc. I recommend that to your attention. Cleaning even something as simple as this little siphon air brush took half an hour. :)
(https://static.imgzeit.com/reduced/2ed49e93c25658a9/20220626_110548.jpg)
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All that is left to do is cover the wings. But first.. :) I need to leak check the fuel tank. While I'm at it, I'll test the oil tank.
Put a pound or so on the tank and sprayed a mix of water and a few drops of Dawn dish soap over all the welds looking for bubbles.
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/e6e97b40ca835d8a/20220629_160935.jpg)
Ditto the oil tank.
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/431a4bdfbd772a0d/20220629_163207.jpg)
All good. We can continue. Sometimes, YOU get the bear. :)
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Fuel tank in for the last time.. yea.. :) And something to do tomorrow.
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/667c1ce897a6d4fb/20220630_165712.jpg)
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The Poly fiber (actually Stits, everything I have is old.. :) )sez to cover the bottom of a wing first. Put the leading edge 1 inch below the chord line. Shrink to 250F. Did that.
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/93d57e24f61ae330/20220701_120023.jpg)
Then, cover the top putting the leading edge of the covering right on the chord line, like so..my sweetie and I snapped chalk lines to keep it straight. If you don't, it will show under the leading edge finishing tape and look bad.
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/e7d26e70c25c4a02/20220701_122843.jpg)
Laid the top cover in location, and cut a hole for the gas filler neck.
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/4348809c133b99cb/20220701_131411.jpg)
Had to leave, so didn't want to get into the middle of something, and quit for the day.
The plan is to cover the root in 3 pieces so I can sort out the fuel lines later. I *may* leave the tank bay open.. haven't decided.
So, tomorrow.. or when I get back to it..I'll glue the leading edge right on the line, pull everything taut, and glue the trailing edge. Then, the tip, and finally the root. Shrink it to 250F, then both sides to 350F. This is all out of the Stits manual..
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One more bite out of the elephant. Turned it over, glued the inspection ring where I can (hopefully) :) get the aileron hinge pin in, and brushed the first coat of poly brush.
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/9449dcd635cf6f62/20220702_145744.jpg)
Tomorrow, I'll take a few minutes and dope a doily over the inspection ring.
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Ok, take your aviation mechanic's (tm) embroidery hoops and shrink some fabric at 250F. Cut it out and make reinforcement patches. Dope those down around the things that stick out.. :)
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/f7b8a1f2cf483ec3/20220703_100747.jpg)
Had my lovely assistant come out and help install the aileron to make no shit sure it was still moving freely.
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/02330c322cb578a1/20220704_095027.jpg)
It is, and I think the Iron Designs aileron is an improvement. Yes, it takes longer to do, and adds a few ounces, but again.. I think.. it will have less adverse aileron yaw. Time will tell, and the time is finally getting shorter. :)
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Chuck, this peeks (engr spelling) my curiosity. What is it about the Iron Design aileron that lessens adverse aileron yaw ? Thanks for your help.
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Oh, that is only a guess on my part. It will certainly be more effective, and will have to move less to cause the same roll rate.
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Oh. Thanks
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Haven't posted for a bit, been at a Guzzi rally.. :)
How to keep fuel from getting inside the wing? Hmmm. Decided to put a couple of coats of poly brush on the neck, make a doily that was a really tight fit on it, and dope it on. I *think* that should do it.
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/e0c56fa49ac8e704/20220711_160519.jpg)
Oh, in case you are wondering how I'm going to vent the tank, I'll chuck up the cap in the lathe and ream a 1/4" diameter hole in it. Bend a 1/4" aluminum tube 90 degrees, and face it forward.
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Put as much finishing tape as (I hope) is necessary, installed the fuel line fittings, made a cap vent, and I'm calling this wing ready for paint. I painted 2 coats of poly brush on everywhere the fabric touches, and (hopefully again)painting poly brush through the fabric will glue the fabric down without rib stitching.
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/c55cad203fbd313a/20220715_140428.jpg)
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I've been waiting (sort of) patiently for either Aircraft Spruce or Wicks aircraft to get 2 inch bias finishing tape back in stock. Since I have a very little left from the last airplane, and our EAA chapter has aged out.. I think I'm the only one building anything..I'm trying to be Scotch with what I have and just use it where absolutely necessary.
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/5000165391eb4875/20220720_093357.jpg)
It doesn't look as good, of course, but a guy's gotta do what a guy's gotta do. :) Besides that, Ancestry says I am 27% Scotch, so it should be ok.
No reason to do this picture, I just wanted to look at it..(shrug)
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/dc5a7970bb206a4f/20220720_103157.jpg)
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I'm finishing up the last covering job :) and it dawned on my that I haven't shown any techniques. After all, the stated purpose of this forum is to show how to build a Legal Eagle. I've been an EAA technical counselor since the 80s, so I've been slackin.'
Here, we're covering the end of the wing. The first idea most have when trying to get fabric to go around a curved surface is to cut pie shaped wedges out of it and glue it down.
Don't do that. It's not as strong, and looks like crap. :) Getcha a piece of cardboard to hold behind that area and shrink the fabric with your little iron as necessary to keep it from puckering.
I've used this on the tail feathers with varying radii, also.
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/157130705faa968d/20220729_090359.jpg)
Here's a trick for getting a nice job on the trailing edge.Clamps to hold it straight while putting a wet coat of poly brush down, making sure you have plenty where the little tits from the pinking shears are.
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/5d98ed983cbb33e7/20220729_091954.jpg)
Lay the tape in the wet paint and work the paint up through the fabric with a dry brush (or your thumb).
*let it dry until the solvents evaporate* about 15 minutes, then you can continue on to the next bay.
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/1a1dc8288f542ee3/20220729_092547.jpg)
Put a clamp at the end, and do the next bay, etc. You'll have a nice straight line and won't have bad adhesion from the tape being pulled loose as you pick it up and apply more dope.
ta da..
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/8b1725179323f16a/20220729_093452.jpg)
Another trick when wrapping fabric or finishing tape around a 90 degree (or more) corner is to take your iron at 250F and crease it all along the edge.
Here you can see where I did that except for the 18 inches or so yet to do. If you don't do that, it will be very difficult to get the tape to lay down in the poly brush. It will pop back up before the solvents evaporate and cause you grief.
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/91598d232d6d26d2/20220729_110614.jpg)
Back to the end..
Once you have the fabric wrapped all around and doped down, you can set your iron at 250 and shrink it evenly. Then.. set it at 350 and finish shrinking. At that point it is coated with one coat of poly brush and the final tapes installed. That, and making some reinforcing patches for the strut fittings and inspection plate are tomorrow's job.
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Ferinstance.. no need to cut pie shaped wedges when going around corners..
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/469b188a839990a7/20220801_102732.jpg)
And with a little careful heating and backing up with the cardboard..
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/024041b8d9184678/20220801_112139.jpg)
Nothin to it.
Still need to put a 3 inch tape on the leading edge and that will do it for covering.
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No progress lately. :( Last week we were up in Wisconsin visiting The Kid and his wife. We were going to the Wisconsin Moto Guzzi rally, and the night before sitting around drinking a couple of beers. He asked how the project was coming. I told him ready to paint and assemble. When he learned I was not going to rib stitch it, he gave me *the look.* (He's an A&P/IA and runs possibly the biggest gen aviation maintenance facility in the country.. C77.)
"You know.. there is a *lot* of pressure trying to lift the fabric off the top of the wing as well as I do..and.. I'd rib stitch the tail feathers, too.They get beat up pretty badly with prop blast. Yeah, I know it is only a 60mph airplane, but I'd feel better if you rib stitched it."
Aaarrg! I thought I was ready to paint, assemble, and would be flying in a couple of months.
This is how projects get stalled. I'm just not interested in rib stitching, and especially *laying all those stupid tapes* right now.
This just may turn into a Winter project, but that's ok. The reason I'm building this is for something to do..
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Actually, a little progress finally. I had a Moto Guzzi parts job for the water jet guy, so made a drawing and took some stock to him for the Verner exhaust flanges. He did it for nothin.. :)
Exhaust system, some assembly required. :)
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/a4f6aaf43bc29bc0/20221110_111548.jpg)
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Welcome to Indiana. 2 days ago, I was riding my motorcycle in 70 degree weather. Today.. we have 2 inches of snow. (!)
Fortunately, I have an airplane project. :) Rib stitched the horizontal and vertical stabs and elevators. Have the rudder prepped for tomorrow. No doubt this is overkill, but why not?
for instance..
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/9cb9804db71c45c1/20221112_142357.jpg)
parts is parts
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/af086ac941495c49/20221112_154725.jpg)
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Looks great, as usual. A question about your powder coating. How did you prep the aluminum parts? I figure sandblasting and acetone cleaning is OK for the 4130 stuff.
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Thanks, Keith..(ahem) from memory ::) red Scotch brite. I have some all purpose paint thinner that I most likely used to wipe them down. I bead blast steel. Powder coating isn't nearly as fussy as spraying paint.
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Thank you. So a good scrubbing with red Scothbrite to get the oxide off, a wipedown with acetone or MEK and powder coat before the oxide builds back.
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Back at it. Ailerons stitched and taped. Should finish up the tail feathers tomorrow.
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/e8c819f24c0187ed/20221117_160040.jpg)
On long tapes, I like to lay about 6 inches in the wet poly brush, then let it dry a bit. Then you can put a little tension on the tape when laying the rest to keep it straight and foil that guy that will be sighting down them to see if they are straight. :)
You know he will..
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Grandkid Max is visiting from college. "I've got this.." :) and he did.
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/f32487265c12e060/20221125_161900.jpg)
Finished stitching the left wing yesterday, and we should finish the right wing today. Getting around the compression struts took some creative bending of a rib stitch needle of course, and there are places that require you to just stitch around one cap strip.
We'll "get er done, though.." when your Kid says he'd feel better if you rib stitch it, that's what a guy's going to do. :)
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I gave Max the glory of the stitch we were looking for.. the last one. He's using a special needle we made out of a clothes hanger to stitch places that couldn't be done normally because of internal structure being in the way.
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/ad9b0700bfed34e9/20221127_143853.jpg)
Whew!It would have taken me forever trying to do it by myself.
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In case anyone finds this with a search.. here's a gotcha. I never gave a thought about the chalk lines to line tapes up, etc. I've always painted silver, and "silver covers every color, every color covers silver." I'll bet one coat of color won't cover these chalk lines, and since they are covered with poly brush, there is no getting them off. ::)
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/77e2af142a0c6e44/20221129_110530.jpg)
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Think of them as the defects that let the evil spirits out ...
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I've always painted silver, and "silver covers every color, every color covers silver." I'll bet one coat of color won't cover these chalk lines, and since they are covered with poly brush, there is no getting them off. ::)
How about making them a feature instead of a bug by painting a silver stripe there... :emoji_u1f61c:
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I've often said it's hard to find good help any more.. :-X
the two new gallons of paint are different colors. Yes.. I've stirred the crap out of them.
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/e0f970de586f91ed/20221201_094202.jpg)
What I am looking for is "unbleached muslin". :) The one on the right is the closest I could find with the poly fiber paint chips. Can't have two different colors, though, so a 40 mile round trip to the paint store to get an empty gallon and quart can was in order. Mixed them together, along with UV retardant.
I can't spray.. my temporary (15 years or so) paint booth is torn down. I'm going to roll it on. Watched several youtube videos of boat guys painting this way, so armed with a little knowledge and a 4 inch foam roller.. had at it.
There *is* a learning curve of course, so I painted the bottom of the horizontal stabs and elevators first. :) After that, I was getting better and painted the tops of the ailerons.
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/0290c78d14d99a59/20221201_135538.jpg)
Looks pretty good. I'm going to get it done this way. Yay.. there was some blue chalk on the ailerons, too, and one coat covered it. Some days, you get the bear. :)
So far, I've used less than a cup of paint on one side of the stabs, elevators, rudder and vertical fin and ailerons.
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My take on "unbleached muslin." :)
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/c6a7584d26a24da7/20221202_154921.jpg)
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Awesome!
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Thanks, Keith.. :) It would look "better" with another coat, but paint weighs a lot. After all, this is (hopefully) a flying machine, and a fancy paint job and interior only makes it fly slower and not climb as well.. ;)
Just MHO..
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Painted the tops of both wings today. I'll get the bottoms tomorrow.
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/91a3d75d09818cbb/20221206_124945.jpg)
If I had it to do again.. :) I would have used a system other than Poly Fiber. The reason I used it was:
(1) I had the fabric and a couple of gallons of poly brush, etc. laying around.
(2) I'm familiar with it.
But..
I think some method of just covering and rolling on one coat of house paint would be better. It would certainly be cheaper, less labor intensive, and probably lighter, although a gallon of Poly tone will easily paint the whole airplane with one coat.
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And now for the fun stuff.. the labor is (mostly) done, and it's time to assemble and make it all work. :)
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/116eeedbfc83ec86/20221208_170351.jpg)
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Continuing on the fun part.. :) control stick and floorboard in for the last time.
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/2fe32cb30ef9e68a/20221209_153705.jpg)
Stabs on, rudder and elevators hinged.
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/96c5a0b405cda53a/20221209_153727.jpg)
Tailfeathers roughly rigged.
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/11f8c0fe6be7f0d7/20221209_162927.jpg)
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/d9694d0b6cc39f28/20221209_162802.jpg)
Tomorrow will be spent adding and subtracting washers for final rigging and cable tension. That will be kind of a PITA, but (ahem) assuming I didn't make any of the cables too long.. that will be another milestone.
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Back in the distant past, 914 Pete said,
I followed the plans for my XL and found the 36" length too short. 5'9" avg. build. When sitting in the seat I felt like I was sliding forward. I added an additional 6". Now I feel like I'm more settled in a "sling." It's very comfortable. Plenty of room above the torque tube. Matter of fact, I wish I added 7". Also, it would have been easier to go long and shorten the seat rather then having to lengthen it after finishing it. The width is ok.
so I made the length 42 inches.I had my lovely assistant come out and check the seat bottom for clearance before installing it for the last time. She said, "plenty of clearance on the top pulley, but the up elevator cable is just touching when you scoot forward a bit."
Took 1 inch off the bottom..
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/4105829b74c1019a/20221212_154421.jpg)
Reinstalled, and she said I had at least one finger's width of clearance. When I put Mouser's seat in there, there is a *lot* of clearance because it spreads the load over more area of the sling. So if someone finds this some time in a search, there you have it. :)
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Yep, looks like unbleached muslin to me.. :)
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/bb0d14fdf9c1f11e/20221212_163213.jpg)
Everything rigged and working, brakes hooked up, and I can sit in her and make radial engine noises..
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Installed the firewall. Motor mount, oil tank, barely seen fuel pump, and voltage regulator on this side.
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/bf0ce5d2649896fb/20221213_160321.jpg)
Coil pack and unbelievably light weight lithium battery.
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/4470a95365d91524/20221213_152253.jpg)
Went for a short flight (in the shop) and visibility will be awesome. Even better than a Cub with the doors open.
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Another milestone, the engine mounted for the last time. :)
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/98a08062dad243cb/20221214_153154.jpg)
Stuck the prop on for a picture..should have adequate power. :o
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Do you have any grease plates for the wheels to see how much gear movement happens with you and the engine?
Wayne
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Do you have any grease plates for the wheels to see how much gear movement happens with you and the engine?
Wayne
Nope. I eyeballed a little camber into it when building the gear, and so far.. :)
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BTW it looks great. I still haven't worked any more on mine. Still have to carve the prop and do a break in. Maybe some engine noise will inspire me.
Wayne
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Hope you are doing ok, Wayne.. and wishing you the best. I just finished what I wanted to get done before the holidays, so will be taking a break until after the first of the year.
Oh. And thanks.. :)
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time stamp
2 years 9 months 1 day 6 hours
class rating 'Expert'
i know of a father son team also 'expert' class rating(AnP, career aviator) they 4 years
Im two years wait three now and have time before the snow melts(i work at golf course), i have had life get in the way(two deaths in family, covid, economy) not to mention the back to work thing. I have a C 120 to continue my flight training(tail dragger) and field close by but WHERE IS THE TIME???
Way to go Chuck, Dan, Steve, oh and Leonard. I choose LE and sticking to it! Much support and info here! although i wanted to build "backyard flyer" but no plans.
Thank you
Theo
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^^^^^ It takes a lot of time. Leonard says if you can't do it in 6 months you are slackin'.. but.. salesmen have a license to lie. :) :) When I first looked at the plans, I thought, "2 years if a guy stays right at it," and I think that is about right.. IF.. you have been down this road before. All bets are off if this is the first time you've built an airplane. There is a fair amount of thinking involved to build it. ;) That is why prefabbed "kits" are so popular.
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Fun stuff here: making sure all the hardware is correct and properly safetyed. I start at the tail and look at each. I'll get another pair of eyes on it before flight, though. It's amazingly easy to miss something. As I was going forward, I just had regular an365 nuts on the landing gear. The verbiage is "subject to rotation" when it needs to have a castle nut and cotter pin. ::) Had to get the cherry picker out and change out that hardware.
Still fun stuff to be assembling for the last time, though. :)
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/550d7d0426f293d6/20230113_155847.jpg)
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It's looking really really good Chuck. Fun times ahead for you. You earned it!
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Came back from SoCal with the Covid (!) so haven't been getting much done. I've done some wiring and plumbing, though..
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/ce3f762f2efd05f8/20230119_163559.jpg)
Pretty much have the instrument panel.. such as it is.. figured out.Throttle on the left, Mixture enrichment for starting on the right. Rummaged around in my "good" junk pile and found a piece of canvas bakelite and a little piece of copper to make up a buss bar. 3/8" round bakelite for stand offs.
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/99b2b09c480ca8af/20230119_155025.jpg)
A guy on a motorcycle forum told me about these "hose" clamps and cushion stuff. Marine grade, stainless, and not expensive.
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/2720db37fcf08298/20230119_162701.jpg)
That helps take the sting away from the weekly $100 little box of stuff from Aircraft Spruce. :)
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Still have to mount the instruments, oil tank, and I'm calling this engine mounting done. :)
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/ed83f660d1b52bd7/20230123_160213.jpg)
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Another little "gotcha" is this. The Verner comes with an oil pressure switch for an idiot light. That's probably fine..but.. I really prefer a real gauge. The problem is the thread is M10X1. Every gauge I've found is 1/8 pipe. With enough research (the internet can be a wonderful thing) I found a M10 male to 1/8 female adapter. That will let the oil pressure bulb screw in and barely miss the oil line.
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/084b499f33590fdb/20230125_154231.jpg)
Finished up the home brewed electrical system today, and it passed the smoke test. :)
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/e837b13bc5b50247/20230125_152445.jpg)
Not shown is a 12V lighter receptacle on the right side for my heated vest. "Vintage" tach (how could it be.. I bought it new for Mouser a (ahem) few years ago and didn't use it..apparently will work, volt meter shows battery voltage, oil pressure gauge goes to zero, and the engine cranks when you push the big button. :) Lever on the right is for mixture enrichment on cold start. Second switch is ignition and fuel pump. That stuff works, too, but I don't want to run the pump without fuel.
Still need to make placards, but I'd say this job is done.
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Years ago I mounted an oil pressure sending unit on a rotax on a light sport. He took off for south cal and halfway there the the sending unit broke off at the engine, lost a lot of oil, made a landing in a field. no engine damage. since then I have mounted all oil pressure sending units on the firewall with a hose to the engine. The sending unit is pretty heavy. just food for thought.
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Ok, Wayne.. I'm munching on the food for thought as we type. The reason I went this way is I was wanting to avoid the weight and complexity of AN fittings, a bulkhead fitting, etc. Hmmm. I could machine a slug with a 1/16" diameter hole that presses into the M10 adapter.. thanks for your experience.
I've always said that having the right tool is 2/3 of the job. :) The cnc mill made short work of drilling holes in the prop bolts for safety wire.
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/9dc41f47aae4ef3d/20230127_140917.jpg)
And.. engraving the placards.
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/7ff2d74bb816fcc5/20230127_145339.jpg)
A couple of small bites off the elephant. :) That last 10% that takes 90% of the time is getting shorter. :))
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Not too much weight difference, you can use -2 hose and fittings and adel clamp at fire wall.
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Thanks Wayne. I'll give it a hard look.
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Ok, I'm out of room on the firewall, but I could mount it on this gusset.
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/aac9e016d771cbc9/20230128_132618.jpg)
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Mounted the oil tank for the last time, fuel filter, torqued and safetied the prop. When it's horizontal and the Verner logo is right side up, the top cylinder is at TDC. This (supposedly) will mitigate oil draining into the bottom cylinders.
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/93c4880dced91ca3/20230128_132308.jpg)
Haven't decided for sure whether I like the "bullet" or not. I'll wait until the wings are on.
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/b0377e54ef29f4fa/20230128_144437.jpg)
Naturally, I had to sit in it and make airplane noises. :) Visibility will be awesome. This is taken from eye level.
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/b0166f515faf1b29/20230128_144629.jpg)
Time to make a punch list..
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Working on the punch list.. there's about half a page. :) I *never* make lists until the project is about done.. if you do, you'll get overwhelmed and quit on it. Just one thing at a time.
Exhaust stacks on the list today..
Fixtured for tacking
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/c35bf710dfe592b2/20230202_091923.jpg)
Welded and mounted. Still have to paint them of course, but that is farther down the list.
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/c167fe1630382ee8/20230202_153715.jpg)
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Finished up the punch list except for installing the wings, etc.
Moved oil pressure bulb.
Bolted seat in.
Installed breather hose for oil tank/engine.
Moved the whole works out into the hanger for the last time. :)
Painted exhaust stacks.
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/f74e9a306ceb350b/20230203_144832.jpg)
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Chuck, our oil pressure sender is still on the engine block, no problems, yet, but your re-mounting is food for thought.
The Verner will shake "authoritatively" around the crank axis at low rpms. I would be attentive to the possibility of the copper line cracking near the pressure sender.
The airplane looks great.
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Chuck, our oil pressure sender is still on the engine block, no problems, yet, but your re-mounting is food for thought.
The Verner will shake "authoritatively" around the crank axis at low rpms. I would be attentive to the possibility of the copper line cracking near the pressure sender.
The airplane looks great.
:) :) So I solved one problem and caused another? I *did* put a gentle loop in it..
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/b25151043a2f0c5e/20230203_131419.jpg)
Thanks for the reply,Tom, that's another thing I'll have to be watching like a hawk.
Moved it into the hanger for the last time. Yay. It will have to get a *lot* warmer before I even think about getting my lovely assistant (tm) to help me put the wings on, though.
Edit to add gratuitous picture:
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/abe4f8495785afb5/20230204_102336.jpg)
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Fittings and struts installed, waiting for wings and a warmer day. :)
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/16a14b479308b41b/20230205_092823.jpg)
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I was flying home one horrible black night in a friend's bonanza. the copper oil pressure line broke, filled the cockpit full of oil smoke. We were over water at 1600 agl. aimed for a rotating beacon and got it on the ground. lost 5 quarts of oil. The line also had a vibration loop in it. he replaced every line on his planes with hose. all my planes also had hose.
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What if you made a bracket for the sender and mounted it to the block instead of the engine mount? That way the copper line would not be asked to flex continuously. The only thing vibration might affect is the electrical connection on the sender.
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I like where you mounted the sender, just don't like the copper tube. BTW the plane looks great, you are a real craftsman.
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I like where you mounted the sender, just don't like the copper tube. BTW the plane looks great, you are a real craftsman.
Thanks for the kind words, Wayne. I could use nylon tubing.. this is just what was locally available when I was shopping for the sender change. I, too, had a copper line break on a street rod I'd built.'39 Chevy. At night in the rain, of course. :grin: I never knew it until the lifters started rattling. Hoo boy! Did that make a mess. :) I didn't have the loop in the line, and it was a less than hair raising lesson compared to night over water. :o
I *seriously* doubt this little ship will ever be more than 15 minutes from my strip. It's just a toy after all.
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The nylon tubing sounds good. there is no heat there and you can use the same fittings. Pressure is not an issue either.
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:)
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/0c54f8f90dcfff2b/20230206_162214.jpg)
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Looks great! Love those wingtip "flaps".
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Spent the day putting in the "real" hardware. :P Naturally, the root fittings are the hardest, and I spent all morning putting in three bolts. Not too bad, really, with ream fits and close tolerance bolts everything has to be just right to go together. I remember a guy helping me when I was assembling the Great Lakes, and it took us 6 hours to install one..
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/1933288ae5eb6b0d/20230207_154644.jpg)
Still haven't decided on the bullet nose art, but it's growing on me. I have the aileron pulleys installed with used bolts. They would be good for another 50 years, I suppose, but this is getting all new hardware. (shrug) Once I get them, I can rig the ailerons, and it will be mechanically complete. Still need to cover the center section. So far, I'm thinking about gutter flashing..
<rant.1> I see guys on facebook talking about flaperons and Fokker ailerons.. ::) Another has a 360 lb. Legal Eagle. (!) Are all facebook people clueless about airplanes? <rant/0> :)
I should post this picture and mention that every ounce makes a difference and this rod is titanium..
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/4eaceae79ad9e3d2/20230207_141521.jpg)
If you are not adding simplicity and lightness, you are screwing up. :)
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I bet it is getting hard to be humble around there... Looking dam fine..!
(https://media.giphy.com/media/qv8M5F0qaf1Yc/giphy.gif)
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You should have gone with Unobtanium. Half the weight of Titanium and twice as strong. And stop critiquing my FB posts, it hurts my feelings! :grin: She's looking really good! I've been smoking over your pictures trying to imagine an engine mount. I'd like to make it fit a run-up stand and then transfer directly to the plane since the engine will be here long before the fuselage is ready and I'd like to try a few things. Beautiful work and I'd definitely go with the bullet.
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That's one vote for the bullet. :) Thanks, Mr. Birdman. *Don't* use my engine mount design as a pattern. I have no idea whether it will work or not. (shrug)
Ailerons rigged and saftied.
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/0bdcdfb21464004f/20230208_160029.jpg)
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/4d2fb60c65ec01dd/20230208_160201.jpg)
Lots of wing..
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/9dd05e9615be54db/20230208_160118.jpg)
Still have to make the jury struts and fittings, hook up fuel lines, and *somehow* cover the center section.
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Like you, I am considering using aluminum flashing to cover the center section. While daydreaming about it, (you know, at work), I was thinking of some sort of mounting that would allow easy removal. I was thinking of a strip of "stick on" velcro(c) between the wing and cover but if it were strong enough to hold it on would likely mangle it when removed. Trying to avoid more structure within the wing to receive screws. What did you have in mind for attachment?
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Just offhand without *really* looking at it.. you could wrap the leading edge and have a pk screw in the spar top and bottom. A little careful fitting, and you could have a fold at the trailing edge to go underneath. I would think small pk screws in the plywood between the two butt ribs would hold it down. From memory (always dangerous at my age) a 10" strip of flashing would do it.
Of course, you "could" just cover it with fabric if you don't plan on removing the wings. You could slit it down the edges and baseball stitch and tape it together if you absolutely *had* to remove the wings.
Just food for thought while sitting here on a cold dreary day..certainly too cold to go out in the hanger. :)
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Made up the jury strut fittings and one strut today. Doesn't look like much, but took about 4 hours.. :)
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/d210d7b339089db3/20230212_153631.jpg)
Another bite off the elephant.
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I've said many times that having the right tool is about 2/3 of the job. :) Many years ago, I struggled to put two Adel clamps together for entirely too long. Been there, done that? Just cut a slot in a piece of sheet metal, clamp the legs of the Adel together, line up the holes, and slide the sheet metal tool over.
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/30e538da0866fb4f/20230214_110320.jpg)
You're welcome. :)
Painted the fittings, installed the jury struts, and "airspeed indicator."
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/a71772bd71bba35a/20230214_110715.jpg)
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Beautiful work, as usual. May need stabilizing bracket at top when that Verner starts to shake a little.
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Maybe just take it off..if it "flies like a Cub," it will do everything at one speed, too. :)
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The right tool for this job would have been an 8 foot shear. I don't have one, and made do with a HF imitation Pexto machine to slit the gutter flashing.
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/83fc07771ada644b/20230215_111845.jpg)
Had some .015" left over from the floorboards and used it to wrap the leading edge.
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/0fe8ebaf812e1586/20230215_150207.jpg)
Now, another problem. The shoulder harness is too long to hook it up at the rear spar mount. I don't want to hook it back at the top longeron.. I'd just as soon take my chances of whacking the panel with my face as getting spinal compression if it goes over on it's back. Does anyone know of a shoulder harness that isn't 5 feet long?
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Here is how one builder attached his harness to the fuselage. Don't know if yours is too long for this.
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I don't know what he's measuring, but using that technique, accuracy is going to suffer a bit......... :))
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I don't know what you are using for a harness but I know in auto racing the harnesses the fixed length of the harness can be adjusted. They use a piece of metal with 2 slots in it close together where the webbing goes through, out to the anchor, and back through the metal gismo again. It is called a slider bar, a google search will show images. I have them on my racing harnesses.
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I don't know what you are using for a harness but I know in auto racing the harnesses the fixed length of the harness can be adjusted. They use a piece of metal with 2 slots in it close together where the webbing goes through, out to the anchor, and back through the metal gismo again. It is called a slider bar, a google search will show images. I have them on my racing harnesses.
Yeah, it's adjustable, but still too long when adjusted as short as it will go. It's too heavy anyway.. I just happened on it on the net and hit the buy it now button a year or two ago. It was cheap (legal eagle content) and green.. :)
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I'm detailing this build on a Moto Guzzi forum.. a bunch of (ahem) eclectic characters for sure. :) Always helpful, a guy from Australia asked it this would work..
https://anywitchway.com.au/products/chain-me-up-shoulder-harness-silver
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I think you want the should harness somewhere between horizontal and 20 degrees down going from your shoulders aft.
Random example:
https://www.sfifoundation.com/wp-content/pdfs/guidelines-bulletins/Seatbelt%20Installation%20Guide%2006-05-12.pdf
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FAA recommendations are on pgs. 31-32 in the attached PDF, corresponding to pgs. 25-26 on the printed page.
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Thanks, guys.. my ancient 4313 doesn't give any information on shoulder harness except "must meet strength requirements blah blah."
I'd always thought down is bad. The FAA says down is ok as long as the seat is at least as high as the pilot's shoulders. Not even close on the legal eagle.
Here is a screenshot of the latest 4313-2a chapter 9.
(https://static.imgzeit.com/reduced/6af463d0f8b3f4c7/Screenshot%20from%202023-02-16%2014-09-24.png)
That rules out going to the first cluster aft of the cockpit, which is where I was thinking about after Tom posted the picture above.
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Well, well.. looky here. A shoulder harness mount. (some assembly required) :) I dug around in my "good junk" pile and found this 1/16" 4130 formed piece from when I scratch built the Great Lakes trainer back in the 80s/90s. As Grandmother always said, "never throw anything away if you think you might need it some day." Well, honestly I never thought I'd need it, but threw it in the good junk box.
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/d983c75815bc6113/20230216_145808.jpg)
a little tape around the tube, a flat piece to bolt it together with a shoulder harness mount welded to it, and it'll be done. The Lovely Assistant says she can make the shoulder harness as short as I want. I love it when a plan comes together.. :)
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(sigh) I started this project for "something to do." It's been tolerable out in the hanger the last couple of days and I've finished up the punch list. It's always bittersweet for me to finish a big project..I enjoy building things, thinking of how to do this and that, etc. If you don't, you'll never finish an airplane project.
Don't tell the Lovely Assistant, though. I'm sure she can find *plenty* of projects for me. :)
Mounted the seat belt/shoulder harness, hooked up the fuel lines and sight gauge. Put a quick drain in the fuel tank. Decided the #2 wood screws I was using to hold the center section down might be a little too light, and replaced them with #6X1/4. Did other little nickel and dime stuff.
Tomorrow, I'll call the aerodrome and see if they have gotten radial engine oil in yet. If so, I can prelube the Verner,track the prop, and see if that bad boy will run. Oh, yeah, I need to come up with a way of putting fuel in the tank without cracking that delicate leading edge.
Gratuitous picture..
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/97299852d4b24e9c/20230219_161918.jpg)
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You know what is worse than finding a fuel leak? *not* finding a fuel leak after taking off the wing, cutting the fabric, etc. :P
After filling the tank, I was patting myself on the back (always dangerous) looking at the two sight gauge fittings, front and rear outlets.. and saw fuel dripping off the quick drain. I think I've mentioned how much I hate fuel in the wing..tightened up the quick drain and it slowed down. Hmmm. Tightened it as much as I dared, and still leaking. Drained the fuel. Took out the quick drain and the 3/8 to 1/4 bushing that goes into the tank. Looked at the bushing with my 10X magnifier, and it had a crack in it. Ran to the hardware store and bought a new brass bushing. Installed that and the quick drain, put a couple of gallons of fuel in, and didn't see any leak. Yay. Did other stuff, came back later, and there was fuel on the bottom of the wing by the quick drain. :o ::)
Thought I *must* have cracked the weld tightening the quick drain bushing.
Removed the tank with all that entails. Leak checked with a rubber glove over the vent and maybe 3 psi in the tank. Turned off the air supply. Gloved stayed up. Dawn and water in a spray bottle. Went over ever weld more than once.
Nada.
Came in to lunch. If the glove is still inflated when I go back out, I'll put a couple of gallons of fuel in it and let it sit. Assuming it's not leaking.. I'll reinstall it, baseball stitch the fabric back together, put finishing tapes over the stitching, paint, and reinstall the wing.
I was pretty upset yesterday, but then remembered I was doing this for *something to do.* :)
Some things aren't meant to be understood..
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/efff61735e1401cf/20230223_111906.jpg)
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All the above happened. No leaks. The only thing I can think of is the fuel shut off valve has an o ring in it, it was dry.. leaking.. and fuel ran down the fabric to the lowest part of the wing, dripped off the quick drain boss, and looked like it was leaking. ::)
Dummied up the fuel system, filled the tank, and waited.
Nothing.
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/4135d71760e236d5/20230223_124436.jpg)
Gave up, reinstalled the tank in the wing and baseball stitched the fabric back together. Tomorrow, I'll put finishing tapes on the whole mess, paint it, and maybe with the help of my lovely assistant (tm) bolt the wing back on.
After all I'm doing this for *something to do..* :)
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Wing back on, almost back to where I started a couple of days ago. ::) If a guy squints really hard, he might not notice the tank has been out..
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/6ad497a4d941f1e5/20230224_164728.jpg)
Of course the paint doesn't match, the tank area has 2 coats, and the rest of the wing has one very sparse one. Easy repair with Polytone.. I wonder how easy it would have been to repair one that had been coated with house paint and primer. That was one of my decisions when I decided to spend the big bux on poly fiber. I just *knew* that stupid wing tank would leak sooner or later and it would have to come out. I didn't think it would be before I even ran the engine, though. :)
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I had the right tank out twice on my Stinson, 70 year old weld cracks.
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Chuck, after repairing something and looking at the results, my Dad used to say: "There! A man going by on horseback couldn't tell the difference!" Your fix comes in well above that threshold, so you're good to go! :grin:
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I had the right tank out twice on my Stinson, 70 year old weld cracks.
My Commonwealth Skyranger taught me how to cut and repair fabric over both tanks. Yeah, I just *know* that wing tanks gonna leak..
Sender issues with the Monocolt.. but didn't have to cut fabric.
Stinsons.. yeah.
Great Lakes. The center section is the fuel tank, and.. it carries drag and anti drag loads. Even skinning the center section with plywood didn't stop leaks. That's the Achilles heel of the Great Lakes.
Fuel tank leakage has been the bane of my existence. :grin:
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First time out of the hanger.. let's see if it will run.
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/f862766a079979da/20230226_120220.jpg)
Nope. Battery is dead. :)
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/f862766a079979da/20230226_120220.jpg)
No, I'm not going to prop it. Ordered a lithium battery charger. It's always something. :)
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looks great! I am really jealous. All I have is an engine and the nose ribs.
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Thanks, Wayne! Unfortunately, I gave away all the tooling..or I'd send it to you.
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Broke the surly bonds this evening.. :) :) I wasn't planning on flying, the tach wasn't working.. just a hop off the ground. It has adequate power :o and was 20 feet in the air before I knew it. Flies normally. The Lovely Assistant took a video with my phone. If I can figure out how to post it, I will..
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CONGRATULATIONS!! I hope you can get the video posted. I'll bet Bullet looks great in the air.
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Let's try this. Try not to be underwhelmed.
https://youtu.be/_umQOUVJUQw
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Flying on the first run, outstanding! Great work.
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Outstanding young man! Looks and sounds awesome. You have to be tickled...
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Flying on the first run, outstanding! Great work.
Yeah.. it flew. Not very far,though. :) I hadn't even done fuel flow tests yet.. It just happened to be one of those rare days in February in Indiana where the wind wasn't howling and it was 50 degrees.
Did the fuel flow test today.. and hopped it off the ground again before the wind started coming up. There is some weather coming in, so it will be a while. Need to change the geometry on the throttle, it's entirely too sensitive. Plenty of time to do that when I take the tank out again. :o ::) :( I can't imagine it leaking with all the pressure testing, Dawn and water in a squirt bottle, etc. I've done, but the spots on the floor don't lie. It will be *fixed* before even going around the patch. Down in flames is no joke.. :)
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If I had been smart, I'd have sewed in a zipper. :)
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/bde6ae0f07eccfdc/20230303_093153.jpg)
Got the tank out again, and the dye showed the leak in an almost inaccessible place. ::) Have to cut off the mounting flange, reweld, weld the flange back on, sew up the fabric again, tape, paint.. that last 5% stuff that takes 90% of the time. :)
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Have you had the chance to take Bullet back up again?
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Nope. Fixed the leak..a smaller than a pin hole. :P It was behind the mount and apparently so small I couldn't see a bubble behind it.. and.. it bled off pressure so slowly that the rubber glove stayed inflated for an hour. ::)
I did one more runway hop before pulling the tank, though. Just flew down the runway a little farther that time. Seems normal, and maybe rig is even close. (!) Put the wing back on a couple of days ago, but the wx has been crap. Snow tomorrow. Maybe late next week if the runway dries out.
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First (sort of) real flight report..
Naturally, since Bullet has been ready to go, the weather hasn't cooperated. At all. Walked the runway yesterday, and the wind was finally drying it out enough. Finally, a half hour before sunset the wind settled down to 6 to 10 with a little crosswind component. Rain forecast for tomorrow, opened the hanger door, pushed her out, kicked the tires and lit the fires. :grin: Needless to say, I had already pre flighted all afternoon. :)
The tach still wasn't working at idle, but seemed stable and indicated 2250 during a full power static run up. Perfect. Ed Sterba knows what he is doing..
By the time I had taxied to the other end of the runway, we had 15 minutes left until sundown. Opened the throttle slowly.. I was always taught 3 seconds.. and before I hit one thousand and 3 she was climbing, and making the houses get smaller really fast. :) There is no altimeter, so the rest of this is mostly speculation. I would guess we were at 1000 feet by the time I crossed the end of the runway. Throttled back to 2100, and was indicating 60. (!) Without a sensitive altimeter it was difficult to tell when we were in actual level flight, but throttled back some more, and was indicating 55 on the Hall windmeter. Awesome.
Trim fore and aft seems about right. Roll isn't Pitts like.. :) I didn't take my feet off the rudder pedals to see how yaw trim is yet. By this time, the sun was telling me to get back on the ground.
Landing was a no brainer, although I had to throttle way back to get her to come down. Carried 45 indicated down to ground effect..nothing to it.
Still much to learn about her, but the "flies like a Cub" with the doors open on both sides seems appropriate. *Much* lighter controls, though.
The Verner never lets you forget that you are operating a flying machine..what a hoot!
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Awesome!
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Verner noises.. :)
https://www.youtube.com/shorts/ibJF-H15yow
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For the most part, my "experiments" have turned out well. The engine mount hasn't cracked yet, and the Verner isn't flopping around like a fish out of water. :) Takeoff performance is uh.. exciting, as is flying. Trim is about right. Cruise at 2000 rpm is 60 according to the Hall windmeter, for whatever that is worth.
However.
I grossly underestimated the load on the tailwheel. I had just made bronze bushings for the scooter wheel to run on the 5/8" tubing. Bad idea. It got hot enough to melt the wheel. ::)
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/bac7a0d6077caea5/20230410_084750.jpg)
Replaced it with an aluminum cart wheel from McMaster-Carr aircraft supply. All of my weight savings went out the door because it probably weighs a pound. It is now the strongest part of the aeroplane. :) I'll investigate a scooter wheel with bearings and see if they can take the load. I had the neighbor pick up the tail when I was sitting in it, and he said it was too heavy. (!)
At any rate, the extra pound in the rear didn't change the pitch trim much..
More later.
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These scooter wheels are made to take a load. They have an aluminum hub & spokes with polyurethane tire. I'm going to use a 110mm on my plane.
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Ooh, those are nice. Where did you get them? The closest I've found have a M9 hole.
Really nice tailwheel bracket, too. Where *is* that thumbs up emoji? :))
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I got the wheel from eBay (vendor footful_mall). $17 four years ago. Made the bracket from 1/4" x 4" 6061-T6 angle using plans from internet. Most planes have used 100mm wheel which will be lighter. If I build another I'll use a 3/8" bolt for the swivel instead of 1/2". 3/8" should be plenty strong for an XL.
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These just came from Amazon today.. 10 bucks for the pair. :grin: Supposedly "aircraft aluminum" and the bearing is supposed to be for a 9mm bolt. Nope. 5/16" :) So much for accurate advertising, but that should work.
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/3acc71d3c6a9ee80/20230410_165721.jpg)
Just for grins, I just weighed the tailwheel with me in the seat. My lovely assistant (tm) said 80, maybe 81 lbs, so these wimpy little bearings should be fine. I'll just weld two pieces of 3/32" like the cad drawing to the 5/8" tube steering arm.
Some day when it's raining, or something,though. :) The sun is out, the wind has quieted down, and I'm going to go test fly some more.
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Two flights this evening. The last at sundown was cosmic. It was the first time Bullet has seen smooth air. No wing heaviness, yaw seems ok. Nose heavy, but control pressures are so light it's no big deal, and a heavier pilot might find it to be perfect. Tends to over bank in a turn, and a little opposite aileron is needed to stabilize the turn. Ground handling and landings are ridiculously easy.
The Verner pulls like a train. 2290rpm with the Sterba 67-36 prop at 45 indicated makes the houses get small in no short order. :) Cruises 55 at 1980-1990 rpm.
The stupid (new) oil pressure sender bulb is leaking.. ::)
I know.. pix or it never happened, but the camera mount suction cup doesn't get it..
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Dawn patrol this morning. No contact with enemy balloons or ships.. :grin:
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/d75b6fd6864d4062/20230412_084418.jpg)
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When are you putting bullet on "Bullet". Last photo is terrific!
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Thanks, Keith. I had bullets on "Bullet" for the first flight, but the more I looked at them the less I liked them. She has this pre WW1 vibe going on, and those early birds were extremely plain and basic machines that somehow managed to get aloft. :)
You can briefly see the bullet logo on the first flight video.
https://youtu.be/_umQOUVJUQw
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Cold and windy today, so I replaced the electric oil pressure sender.
(https://static.imgzeit.com/reduced/02e6f970ee6d280d/20230417_132018.jpg)
While I was at it, rebundled the wiring to include the OP tubing.
Made a clamp/mount for the antique Swan video camera.
(https://static.imgzeit.com/reduced/9ef150aedec39041/20230417_132117.jpg)
It's not in the same league as "modern" cameras, and without video stabilization may be unusable. Oh, well, it gave me something to do all afternoon while wearing my winter coat as the wind rattled the hanger door. :)
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Took a couple of videos, and as I suspected the video was unusable. I won't subject you to it. Just ordered a "better" one, and will give it a go next week. Maybe.. :)
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Around the patch at sunset last night. My little $75 camera did ok.. I had it in it's waterproof case, though, and I *think* it was rattling around in it a bit. It does have a remote microphone.. I'll try that the next time. And.. maybe a better camera mount.
The dragging brake sounds worse than it was, fixed that today. :o :)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jZxWFNVWLV8
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Nice flight, Chuck. I flew Treehugger (LE w/ Verner 3VW) yesterday. Sun was nice, but air was cold and very windy, so made it a short flight.
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Nice flight, Chuck. I flew Treehugger (LE w/ Verner 3VW) yesterday. Sun was nice, but air was cold and very windy, so made it a short flight.
Yeah, sometimes a short flight is about all the fun you can stand. :grin: It's supposed to be warmer today, but we have a direct crosswind.
I'm having a good time with this little booger, though. It's more fun than I expected, especially with the Verner.
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A beautiful place to fly, and a beautiful plane to fly in it..! Thanks for the videos!
:emoji_u1f646:
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The only "real" issue I've had with this bird is aileron responsiveness. Breakout force is relatively high compared to the rudder and elevator. I've felt like a witch stirring her cauldron trying to stay level in turbulence. :)
So.
I never like to fool with things..especially primary controls..without considerable thought. Yes, I'm used to airplanes that respond instantly like the Pitts and Sonerai. Comma but. I made a simple plate that bolts to the aileron control arm and added 1 inch of length, thinking I could easily go back to the original if I didn't like it.
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/700af8d1d8a93121/20230506_112013.jpg)
There is some weather coming in, and it was windy (9-15 knots) and lightly turbulent this morning.
I won't be going back. :)
I'm certainly not saying it needs to be done, just food for thought.
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you are getting more control surface movement for a given stick movement let us know how it works out. Do you think more aileron surface could work, as in full span?
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Seems like I read somewhere that Joe Spencer made several wingtip end plates for Putt Putt and said the aileron responsiveness was best with the plates that hung below the wing surface and not above. See video "Putt Putt Up Close and Personal" on YouTube.
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you are getting more control surface movement for a given stick movement let us know how it works out. Do you think more aileron surface could work, as in full span?
I would think so, but that would involve some thinking. :) This is simple, and on a trip around the patch seemed to be an improvement. No telling when I'll get to test it for real. The weather this year has been less than ideal..
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Very nice flight this morning. Let me preface this with "Every homebuilt airplane is different." YMMV. :) Took my phone with an aviation app with us today to get an idea of performance because Bullet doesn't have any flight instruments except the Hall Windmeter. As I suspected, it is pretty close, actually.
Takeoff is pretty much instantaneous. :) Rate of climb at 50 indicated is about 750 fpm. That is at about (TinyTach) ;) 2250-2280 rpm. Cruise at 2050 is between 55-60. That is with about 25 lbs. of fuel and my dainty 180 lb. butt in the seat.
A truly enjoyable flight this morning..
Edit: Oh, forgot. I *like* the additional 1 inch on the aileron control arm.
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Made a crush washer out of soft 1/16" aluminum today to try to cure a persistent leak at the fitting.
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/95e1b0714ea974ba/20230511_133916.jpg)
It came with an O ring that didn't do the job, for whatever reason..
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/345bb452e951e751/20230511_135234.jpg)
That seems to cure it, but now it looks like it is weeping around the plastic tubing. ::) It's always something..
Decided to lower the front of the horizontal stab to alleviate the slight nose heaviness. I'm assuming it is because of the CG of the Verner. Naturally, the tail has to come off..
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/e5048bbeaba303ad/20230513_140536.jpg)
and about 20 seconds with a counterbore removed 3/16".
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/2e034bc551321265/20230513_141700.jpg)
Two hours later it was all back together. :)
The light rain had stopped, so went around the patch. It's better, but probably needs another 3/16" or so. Because of the slow speeds, (my guess) it takes a lot of change to make much difference.
We have a little over 7 hours now. This evening, we had a 10 knot direct x wind, and had no problem at all. I *like* the extra inch on the aileron control..
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:grin:
https://youtu.be/gh8meAdzIGs
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Final version of the panel. While an altimeter would be *really* nice..especially during testing.. they are also really heavy. I'm using an aviation app on my phone for altitude/ROC info until I understand rpm vs. airspeed a little better.
(https://static.imgzeit.com/reduced/696744b286f6eb16/20230521_090300.jpg)
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Some might think this is excessive for an ultralight in general or the LE in particular but the Dynon D3 https://dynonavionics.com/pocket-panel.php#0 (http://"https://dynonavionics.com/pocket-panel.php#0") is only 8 oz. $930 might also be more than you want to spend and the altitude and climb/sink rate are GPS based, not atmospheric based, but this would get the job done and more.
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Thanks for that.. but the phone does that pretty well, and I have one.
I've given up on the Tiny Tach. *Sometimes* it works fairly well, other times when there is a number on the readout it means the engine is running.. ::)
Apparently the Flight Data Systems T30 will work with the tach output of the Verner and I'll actually know what rpm the engine is running. :) Then.. I can use the phone to see what rpm it takes to be in level flight at what speed.
Necessary? Naa. I really doesn't *need* flight instruments. It's a seat of the pants airplane for sure. :)
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This is raw footage of Mike Finney, national award winning builder, flying Bullet this morning. I was his tech counselor (ahem) many years ago with his first homebuilt.
https://youtube.com/watch?v=9eVsE2MhLMM&list=PL6fCZ_CuKgMMFQqUjhEdAnbYLfMTdJdZ9
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Nothing like an odd fire engine on an odd number of cylinders...
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Not to mention it pulls like a locomotive..and.. it's fun to operate. After all, that is why we do this stuff. :)
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My old friend and Lindy award builder Mike a few days ago.. :)
Unedited cell phone video:
https://youtu.be/9eVsE2MhLMM
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When I rigged Bullet, I just used my phone with an angle app to get the washout at the tip. She's a little right wing heavy, so I thought I'd have a look. Mike, who is flying Bullet in the above video came today and brought his fancy high zoot digital level. .1 degree increments. (!) On a normal airplane, I would just turn the left rod end a turn or two to add a little washout on the left wing. Naturally, what you build is what you get on the Legal Eagle, so I was fully prepared to make a new rear strut fitting.
He said, "Let's see where you are" and started measuring every thing. "Hmmm, looks to me that if you put the bolts back in that rear strut fitting it's going to be pretty close." Did that. "Bingo. Less than a tenth of a degree difference in angle of attack, dihedral, and washout." (!) "That phone app must have been pretty accurate." Yeah, but not that accurate..
I've mentioned before that I would rather be lucky than good.. :) :)
We decided that the right wing heaviness might be because I put the tank in the right wing. Do you guys with the tank in the left wing have some left wing heaviness? Inquiring minds and all that..
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Which tubing you used for wing struts? I am from India 6061t6 tubing is not available here. 1000series aluminum and 4130 steel tubing available please also mention the dimension of the tubing which i can use according to you like OD, ID and thickness..
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Which tubing you used for wing struts? I am from India 6061t6 tubing is not available here. 1000series aluminum and 4130 steel tubing available please also mention the dimension of the tubing which i can use according to you like OD, ID and thickness..
Welcome to the forum, Devendra. This is a subject that I hesitate to make a recommendation on. Certainly I would avoid the 1100 series aluminum.
A quick internet search shows that tensile strength of 6061T6 is 310 Mpa while 4130 is 1110 Mpa.
You will have to make your own determination as to what size 4130 to use. Sorry, I can't be more specific..
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Thank you for this..i hade an conversion with someone here he said 6063 is available..what is your thought on 6063 for struts. One more interesting thing which I have seen in your post the tailwheel it is different from the plans..it looks that you simplified the Tailwheel by doing this.. :D
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Thank you for this..i hade an conversion with someone here he said 6063 is available..what is your thought on 6063 for struts. One more interesting thing which I have seen in your post the tailwheel it is different from the plans..it looks that you simplified the Tailwheel by doing this.. :D
Yes, it gets rid of the weight of a tailwheel spring and casting or weldment.
I, personally, would be comfortable with 1 1/8" diameter X .035" wall 4130, but it is *your* life on the line. Obviously, I can't make any recommendation for legal reasons if nothing else.
Here is some engineering info on aluminum..
https://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/properties-aluminum-pipe-d_1340.html
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Greetings, Earthlings.. :)
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/6410279c2d337ab8/20230610_202312.jpg)
Nothing like a hot summer evening in an open cockpit.
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Gaa! Going out for a dawn patrol, hit the starter button and it kicked back.
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/43edc9bafd2cd95b/20230611_083609.jpg)
Oh, well. I needed something to do..
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/706fac0cfde265ad/20230611_083619.jpg)
(grumbling and shuffling off)
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Does that mean we should turn the engine over by hand two or three blades before starting?
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My drill is sump the gas, turn on the fuel selector, pull the plugs from the exhaust stacks and pull it through 5 blades.
Then, preflight. Did that.
Back in the day, the way to start the Warner on the Great Lakes was to turn on the mags as the engine was cranking. Maybe I should have thought of that? Dunno. I'm not terribly happy right now, but I'll get over it. :)
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I feel for you. Hopefully parts are readily available to repair.
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Tomorrow will tell the tale.
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Better it broke there than the crankcase...
Does it start @ 0 BTDC? Maybe a timing malfunction. :emoji_u1f62f:
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Better it broke there than the crankcase...
Does it start 0 BTDC? Maybe a timing malfunction. :emoji_u1f62f:
Yes, it sounds like timing, but that is (magically) controlled by the coil pack. Certainly the sensors haven't moved. I received a post on the Verner facebook page from some guy named Verner :) that said my battery is weak, and what is my address so he can send me a new ring gear. (!) I figured I may as well go for it and said how about the casting? :)
I'm not holding my breath,though.
I set the casting up in my cnc mill, and indicated the mount holes today. I'll weld it up, and drill the hole on location for a spare *assuming* I get one from Verner. I'll make a cad drawing of the ring gear, weld it and hopefully cut the teeth. If not, maybe I could get my water jet guy to make one out of 4130.
In the mean time, I'll make a spacer to take the place of the ring gear and prop that bad boy. :)
It'll be a pain, but I can get my wife to run the enrichener and throttle while I prop it. A guy's gotta do what a guy's gotta do..
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Can't keep a good man "down"... ;)
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We've been propping without issue until Thursday morning. No start. Hmmm. Started trouble shooting, and the ignition is dead. (!!) Probably a good thing this didn't happen while I was flying over the forest where I had no place to land. ;) No, I don't do that.. :) I haven't checked any farther yet, but the ignition unit is grounded out somewhere..
Here you can see I have battery voltage with the ground wires unhooked from the battery..
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/477244bf4f0bf4c8/20230624_144957.jpg)
Since I haven't heard from Verner on the broken starter issue, I've been starting (no pun intended) ;) to see if I can fix it.
Welded up the casting and made a cad drawing of the ring gear.
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/bfedd44b4f868479/20230623_123551.jpg)
Brother in Law Bob retired as the engineer for starters at Delco Remy. He came over and said it wasn't a kick back.. it was incorrect alignment. It has what they call "milling" where the pinion wasn't entering properly. I did a fair amount of cad work and bored the mount holes in what I thought should be the correct location.
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/8923a7d2dd5a004a/20230624_190923.jpg)
Bob says this is just right..
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/b226b2eae90f0089/20230624_102652.jpg)
I've made a fixture to hold the ring gear on the cnc mill table, so now (ahem)all I have to do is grind off the bad teeth.. there are many..weld the ring gear and cut new teeth on the mill.
Maybe a new ring gear will show up from the Czech Republic and I can use it as a spare.
I know I'm doing this for "something to do" :) But I really didn't expect powerplant issues. :(
We are headed out to Denver to watch a week of granddaughter's international softball tournament, so I really don't have time to troubleshoot the ignition until I get back..but I doubt there is anything I can fix. We'll see.
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When you changed the position of the upper mounting hole of the starter bracket did that place the axis of the starter gear closer to or further away from the ring gear? Nice pic of the proper engagement. I want to make sure mine is not "milling" as well.
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When you changed the position of the upper mounting hole of the starter bracket did that place the axis of the starter gear closer to or further away from the ring gear? Nice pic of the proper engagement. I want to make sure mine is not "milling" as well.
Sorry for the late reply, we were out at Granddaughter's national softball tournament in Denver. :) Farther away. If you look at the image with the ring gear missing, you can see the witness mark on the bottom washer on how far I had to move it. That hole was seriously elongated. The top hole had a steel bushing that was a tap fit into the casting. The bottom didn't. (?) Bob says he thinks the pinion was deflecting the ring gear to engage.
At any rate, if I were you, I'd remove the starter motor and manually push the pinion out to check ring gear engagement. He said they had a fancy gauge at Delco Remy, but it was about the diameter of a paper clip. :) That should be a tight fit between the gullet of the ring gear and the pinion.
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Here's a diagram of paper clip idea.
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Beautiful! Thanks guys!
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Dusk patrol yesterday evening.. no cows were harmed on this sortie. :)
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/50ebbf6a45e765ac/20230731_204907.jpg)
Time for an update of Bullet's travails.
When Provaslov Verner had said "your battery is weak" and forgot to tell his son Kamil who runs the company now, that is where the delay happened. Once Kamil was in the loop, things moved right along. We had some language barriers of course..we don't even use the same alphabet..but managed to communicate.
My engine is one of the first run of 10 that were converted to left hand rotation, the 3VL. That is *probably*the cause of the starter location being off. The picture I posted of having power to the crankcase with the battery unhooked was a red herring. I had forgotten that I had run a dedicated ground to the instrument panel, and it was grounding the whole airplane.
At any rate, Kamil sent me a new unfinished starter ring gear and a coil and CDI unit to test. All 3 of my CDI units had failed. (!) He only charged me $50 for DHLs very fast shipping by the way.
Once I had determined that the CDI units had failed, he sent two more, and they arrived in 3 days from the Czech Republic. :o
Don't worry about parts availability or service..
During this time, I powder coated the new ring gear and cranked it several times with the relocated starter casting as shown in the previous picture. It's not even knocking off the paint, much less "milling" the ring gear, so that issue is solved.
Now.. why did the ignition unit fail? When Kamil's dad said my battery was weak, I hooked up the lithium battery charger to the battery cables at the engine, and I *think* that must have caused the CDI units to fail the smoke test. It is the only thing I can think of.
At any rate, it was good to get back in the air after several weeks of scratching my head.
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Pappy PMed my about the tailwheel assembly as used by Les and others, so I thought I'd update what has actually worked. :)
This is version number 1. Bad idea in a couple of ways.
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/32e91d8bda776809/IMG_20210513_150331670.jpg)
I'll continue after I get dressed, and go to the hanger and take another picture.
I had grossly underestimated the load on the tailwheel on a sod surface. First, the bronze bushings got hot enough to melt the plastic wheel. (embarassed)
So, wanting to fly, I sourced an industrial castor to fit the 5/8" dia. axle.
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/bac7a0d6077caea5/20230410_084750.jpg)
That worked, but is *really* heavy. Another thing was as the spring rebounded, the set screw that keeps the whole assembly from falling out beat up the bottom of the bronze bushing. I removed the bushing, silver soldered a 4130 wear ring to it, and turned it down to fit in the tail post.
More later..
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Pappy said he had the same tailwheel from Amazon Aircraft Supply (2 for $10) as I'm using and wanted a picture. Here's what I did. Band sawed and carefully ground off the tubing that had held the original tailwheel. Made two pieces of 3/32" flat stock and welded them on.Weighs practically nuthin' :) and has been working well for the last several hours.
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/0aad329972a9a03f/20230806_093820(1).jpg)
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Thank you very Much.... I just love this community...
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"Hey boss, it's too nice a morning for you to be sitting around drinking coffee.. let's go smash some bugs!" "Ah, Bullet, you know you are so slow that bugs just bounce off..":smile:
(https://static.imgzeit.com/reduced/869c4cc6ddab31f5/20230808_081436.jpg)
"well, I can dream, can't I? I see from the windmills the wind is gently blowing from the Northwest now, maybe you should land the opposite way we took off."
(https://static.imgzeit.com/reduced/c8be72084a8ebb9b/20230808_083422.jpg)
It's always fun to play "spot the grass strip.."
(https://static.imgzeit.com/reduced/1c9ca0bf42905ee7/20230808_082657.jpg)
"It was good for me, boss.." "Yes, yes it was." :D
(https://static.imgzeit.com/reduced/f8c52900a2f223e1/20230808_084420.jpg)
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"Pappy said he had the same tailwheel from Amazon Aircraft Supply (2 for $10) as I'm using and wanted a picture."
Would you supply the part number/description for this tailwheel? It looks very nice!
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Can do. I see the price has gone up..
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07D313W99/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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Thanks! Even at the increased price, I'll order a pair.
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Near record cold this morning.. I love ground fog from above.
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/b08a00dad073913f/20230818_070606.jpg)
Let's go, Bullet! :)
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/cbb35d12df9b6844/20230818_065720.jpg)
Uh oh. We're "on the gauges" and there aren't any. :o Let's warm 'er up a bit.
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/558ad5cc764141a6/20230818_072902.jpg)
Off we go.. life is good. ;)
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/5f3ffff385da2cf2/20230818_073037_028.jpg)
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Just threw the little video camera in my pocket at the last minute this morning. Sorry, no sound, didn't have the mic hooked up. :D Unedited hand held footage:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QOxs75bG1MA
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Hoo Wee. 69 degrees in February..
https://www.youtube.com/shorts/o_DmXuCMxks
https://www.youtube.com/shorts/_nJtT0vWffs
:)
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Eclipse flight..
(https://static.imgzeit.com/reduced/803a81d4bcc08743/PXL_20240408_191021962.NIGHT.RAW-01.COVER.jpg)
Rolled Bullet out, kicked the tires and lit the fires. :grin:
(https://static.imgzeit.com/reduced/df6a17cbce2ae8cf/PXL_20240408_192320137.RAW-01.COVER.jpg)
taxiing in.
(https://static.imgzeit.com/reduced/44d8f5796043813b/PXL_20240408_192910528.RAW-01.COVER(1).jpg)
Another successful dusk patrol in the log book..
(https://static.imgzeit.com/reduced/2fc01ee6ff3ec579/PXL_20240408_193118179.RAW-01.MP.COVER(2).jpg)
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Ossum. Just Ossum as hell...
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Thankya, Dan.. Thankya. :) It *was* ossum. The temp had dropped 12 degrees, and the breeze stopped. Crickets cricketed. Colors were "different," and shadows looked like they had been cut out of black poster board. Blasted off, and there wasn't a ripple in the air. Looking west, it looked like it was raining cats and dogs about 2 miles west, but when we got there, it still looked like it was 2 miles west. The picture of going over the hanger is facing west. You can see the shadows in the taxiing pic, along with the obligatory steely eyed aviator pic, although the effect was muted by the time we decided we had to land. (had a little less than a gallon of fuel.)
It was truly a once in a lifetime experience, and being in a very open cockpit made it even better.
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:)
https://www.youtube.com/shorts/x4YEy_i4qFg
https://www.youtube.com/shorts/ykVeg1N-uXE
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Happy Birthday, Chuck! Your build is an inspiration to us all.
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Happy birthday Chuck, You have kept me going. The engine is done , runs great, carved prop makes wind, static wind is not the whole story, have another blank glued up for another. Ordering wood for ribs this week. I hope I live long enough to fly this thing. Thanks for the inspiration!
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Attaboy Wayne! I'm glad to see you are still at it. :) I'm currently hoping I can finish a Pietenpol that my old friend Bill started 20 years ago. Having a project to think about and a goal is important to me. Besides that, the world *needs* another low and slow airplane. ;)
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The Kelch museum at Brodhead had a bunch of basically junk for sale at the Pietenpol reunion. I found a rate of climb..probably mil surplus complete with wasp nest.. :) and asked Ray Hegy's son (!) how much. "How about 5 bucks.. guaranteed to work here in the hanger." :grin: It had an AN fitting on it so I figured I didn't have much to lose. ;) Put it in my jacket pocket a few days ago, and darned if it didn't work on climb out..so..
Red necked it on to the panel this muggy but beautiful morning and blasted off. Found best rate of climb with the Mighty Verner to be 800 fpm at 40 to 45 mph. Best glide speed was also right at 45. That's pretty much what I had determined by seat of the pants, but now I have data, and so do you.
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For pilots looking for flight instruments that are lighter and more compact than the certified steam gauge route you might consider Hang Glider/Paraglider instruments. They are battery powered and last for hours (GPS) to months (non-GPS), are a few hundred grams, and can be as simple as a variometer (climb/sink rate) and altimeter to full blown moving map GPS units with all kinds of features. If you don't want to buy new consider finding a pilot wanting to upgrade and sell their older unit. www.flytec.com is one brand that you can investigate to understand what they provide but there are others as well. Even if you don't want to purchase and use one on every flight you might be able to borrow one for flight testing to gather this type of data. Also, most will record flight data so you don't have to take notes in the air, you can just download the flight and review the performance.
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Hah! Orville and Wilbur didn't need none of that sissy stuff for their flying machine.. ;) :)
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I've looked at the radiant instruments from the guy that used to run Belite. They look like they would work well in an eagle. Their combo unit costs $400 and only requires the pitot, connecting tubing and a static source. May be over the top fancy but they do look like they would do the job.
I've read some of EAA's info on the static air source but would like to know if anyone is doing this type of instrument that requires a static line.
Jeff
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I have been using the Radiant multifunction instrument for six months and it works very well. The response from support was less than 24 hours. The display information is bright in full daylight but with my aging eyeballs is a little small but sill very readable. That said, I like it. Very compact.
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Charles, how did you set up your static air source?
Thank you
Jeff
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Chuck, I have viewed nearly all your posts. Thanks so much. I am ready for rib number 7 and your pics help a lot. I too am confused some by the iron designs videos. I happen to have some 3/8" delrin rod and a small logab lathe.
What was your final pivot for the ailerons? Bolt, what size? or delrin?
Thanks again for much help!
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Charles, how did you set up your static air source?
Thank you
Jeff
There's no need for a static source without any flight instruments except the surprisingly accurate Hall Windmeter..Here seen climbing out on gorgeous morning.
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/5f3ffff385da2cf2/20230818_073037_028.jpg)
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Chuck, I have viewed nearly all your posts. Thanks so much. I am ready for rib number 7 and your pics help a lot. I too am confused some by the iron designs videos. I happen to have some 3/8" delrin rod and a small logab lathe.
What was your final pivot for the ailerons? Bolt, what size? or delrin?
Thanks again for much help!
I'm glad the build thread helps.. that was the plan. :) I rummaged around in my Good Airplane Junk box and found 4 really long AN4 bolts. Cut them off to the proper length on the little toy lathe, and turned some Delrin bushings. Sorry for no detail, but at my age, that is stored in ancient never to be dredged up memory. Drilled a 1/16" dia hole through the heads for safety wire to a couple of (I think) #2 brass wood screws in the tip rib to hold them in.
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Charles, how did you set up your static air source?
Thank you
Jeff
Radiant told me to just let it hang inside the cabin even though I told them it was for a open cockpit ultralight. I decided to make an aluminum box about 3" X 3" and rivet it to the back of the instrument panel and stick the static tube into it with a rubber grommet friction fit around the tube.
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Thanks Charles. I know that the Radiant instruments may seem extravagant for an Eagle but I'll likely never regret having the accurate and reliable information they provide. Also, unlike some of the repeat offenders here, I'm only building one airplane. I'm going to make this one just what I want the first time.
Thanks again.
Jeff
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I'm using the Tony Bingelis method - a closed tubes with little holes in the sides. I am still building so haven't tested it yet so YMMV.
https://www.kitplanes.com/installing-and-maintaining-your-pitot-static-system/
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I'm using the Tony Bingelis method - a closed tubes with little holes in the sides. I am still building so haven't tested it yet so YMMV.
https://www.kitplanes.com/installing-and-maintaining-your-pitot-static-system/
OkDon, what kind of altimeter are you using?
Jeff
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This is not an Eagle - it's for a Woody's Pusher, so it's the usual altimeter. Someday I'll build a Double eagle ---
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Tube within a tube through the leading edge is great... Never had one that hung under the wing like in those pics. The port on the boot cowl or fuselage hasn't been the best for me.
:o
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Dusk patrol in T shirt and shorts.. life is good. :grin:
(https://static.imgzeit.com/reduced/f7a5c4684b4593ec/20240917_194313.jpg)