Author Topic: Splitting case (Read 1553 times)

Sweet B · « **on:** May 05, 2024, 08:54:23 AM »

Prior to splitting the case do I need to remove this ring, if so how? I’ve seen videos online where the ring stays in place and the half slides out from under it. Any help would be much appreciated.

Kamcoman77 · « **Reply #1 on:** May 05, 2024, 10:22:44 AM »

Hard to tell from the photo, but it looks like the seal may be attached with black RTV. That is how I attached my front seal. Just cut between the case and the silicone to free the seal, then pull the case apart. If the seal is inside the flange of an aluminum adapter, the case should pop apart, and the adapter & seal will stay with the crank.

Sweet B · « **Reply #2 on:** May 05, 2024, 06:27:01 PM »

Got it thanks. What brand of RTV are you using and where did you get the oil filter adapter? If I had that in the beginning, I wouldn't be having these issues.

Kamcoman77 · « **Reply #3 on:** May 05, 2024, 06:44:47 PM »

I used Ultra Black RTV from an auto parts store. The "oil filter adapter" is actually a complete oil pump & filter assembly. Here is a link to a YouTube video that explains it in detail: I used a Wix filter (51056) because it has high burst strength, and it cleared my exhaust tubing nicely.

Sweet B · « **Reply #4 on:** May 05, 2024, 06:46:34 PM »

Thank you

Sweet B · « **Reply #5 on:** July 01, 2024, 07:33:42 AM »

Kamcoman77, what does your oil pressure look like? Did you have to switch springs like video?

Kamcoman77 · « **Reply #6 on:** July 01, 2024, 08:04:32 AM »

Using Lucas 30-weight break-in oil. Cold, have 60 psi, as it warms up, 40 psi @ 2,000 rpm. Haven't ever got it to full operating temp yet, so don't know how much more it may drop. I have not put a stronger spring in the oil pressure relief valve. I haven't run the engine in quite a while but I plan to start testing some electronic ignition systems soon. If the oil temp drops to 30 psi above 2,000 rpm, I'll change to a stronger spring. I will probably change the spring to a slightly stiffer one, once the engine has about 10 hours on it. The pressure will probably be a bit low because I made the "Hoover Mods" on the center cam bearing supports, removed the #4 bearing restrictor plug, and opened the rear oil pressure dump port for increased flow.

Sweet B · « **Reply #7 on:** July 01, 2024, 01:04:20 PM »

Thanks for the info. I'm using Valvoline VR1 20w-50 and easily hitting idle @80-100 psi cold. 40 at idle warm. I'm going to try a lighter spring first and see if that helps.

Kamcoman77 · « **Reply #8 on:** July 01, 2024, 01:08:33 PM »

40 psi to 60 psi in the normal power range should be just fine. I agree that 40 psi at idle is a little higher than needed. Remember it's the rear spring that needs changing if you have a full case, 2-spring system.