Epoxy Primer

[rockiedog2]

>>>To EaglersNests@yahoogroups.com
    Nov 5 at 9:19 PM  
 
 
>>>>I painted my fuse  and tail feathers with Poly Fiber epoxy primer (3 coats).  I was reading on the Stewart website that all primers need a coat of paint to fully protect the steel from rust since primers are porous. Don't really want to do that.  What say ye?

Rob

Ive used that primer and also Randolph for decades with never a top coat and never a problem To this layman they aren't porous at all...I think the resident paint expert Mr Bolding will conform that. Polytac won't attack the epoxies either so they should be used under fabric. Polytac will attack and lift zinc chromate and the theoretical result anyway will be rust knots under the fabric

Spencer

[Justin]

I have a love/hate relationship with Southern Ployurethane's epoxy primer, it shoots nice and is priced right, but is a nightmare to strip! Must use a phenolic based stripper to work, home depo/lowes stuff won't touch it. I stripped a Cessna 140a and had to call them to find out how to get it off!


Prices- http://www.southernpolyurethanes.com/Pricing%20Info.htm
http://www.southernpolyurethanes.com/

[rockiedog2]

I recently found one at Tru Value

Jasco Premuim Paint and Epoxy Remover

the ingredient is Metheylene Chloride which is what Mr Bolding said to get. The stuff  WORKS. I stripped an RV3 tail section with it. Poly enamel over epoxy primer.
Good stuff.

Spencer

[Tom H]

Methylene Chloride.  Potent stuff.  Years ago, we had a problem with cleaning the internals of process valves.  I set up a large soak tank filled with it.  A big hit.  Worked great.  Then, the Co. came out with a list of carcinogens, and this was on the list, could not use it anymore.  Nothing else worked near as well.
Point is, use this stuff with caution, don't slather it all over your hands and arms, have good ventilation.  Consider following the mfgs directions.

Just trying to take care of the Eaglers.

Tom H