wing spars

[grdev]

I went by Menards today to pickup some paint and found myself wondering the lumber piles. I found some real nice straight fine straight grain 3/4 x 10' Doug Fur tong and groove flooring boards. Took a couple of hours sitting on the floor checking for the best boards. Even after you cut the tong and groove off your left with 3"  of good wood. they were just over eight dolls each. If you have a Menards, they also have 4x4 Doug Fur

talked to the guys at Ultra Vair, and it  looks like I'm going to get a redrive for my engine. Going to try my best to make weight, but if not, oh well, no big deal. I just hate to have to chase down someone for my bi annual. Excited about spinning a large prop.
Just had a tornado over by the Menards I was just at, and the sirens went off here, but all we got was some rain 

[grdev]

Finished ripping and scarfing my XL DF wing spar caps. Menards has 12' lengths of 3/4 DF flooring at some locations. Other than a few splinters while sorting through the lumber in the store, everything is going well. I bought a pair of leather gloves, helped a lot with the splinter thing. I'm cutting the 3/4 strips for my spars today and hope to start gluing tomorrow if my T-88 comes in the mail. The temps will finally be in the mid eighties, was in the thirties for lows last week.
Progress is being made on my Ultra-Vair. Talked o them last week and they were machining my case.  Hopefully with the redrive and the right prop the ship will be a real nice short field performer. I need to run by Culver Props and talk to them.  Be traveling down to Texas in about a week and bug the Boss a little see what he has to say.

[grdev]

I have been doing some experimenting with  T-88 & Titebond lll. The T-88 doesn't even come close to the Titebond. Wood fibers are constantly being pulled from one piece of wood with the Titebond, and the T-88 generally breaks clean. I thought  because my T-88 was a couple of years old that was the problem, but I ordered new T-88 and went so for as to go to a local farm supply store and purchase syringes to accurately  measure the two parts of the T-88. Same results. Before I spent a couple of hundred dollars on plywood webbing and glue it to my spars I would like to know what I'm doing wrong. The temps have been in the high eighties with night time lows in the mid sixties. Maybe it takes longer than 24 hours for the T-88 to set up, but it appears it just is not penetrating the wood surfaces like the Titebond does. I haven't used a lot of clamping pressure on the T-88, but on my next samples I will use  about the same clamping pressure I have been using with the Titebond, even though the direction on the T-88 warns of to much clamping pressure. Wondering if others have ran similar test and what their results were

[scottiniowa]

I have been doing some experimenting with  T-88 & Titebond lll. The T-88 doesn't even come close to the Titebond. Wood fibers are constantly being pulled from one piece of wood with the Titebond, and the T-88 generally breaks clean. I thought  because my T-88 was a couple of years old that was the problem, but I ordered new T-88 and went so for as to go to a local farm supply store and purchase syringes to accurately  measure the two parts of the T-88. Same results. Before I spent a couple of hundred dollars on plywood webbing and glue it to my spars I would like to know what I'm doing wrong. The temps have been in the high eighties with night time lows in the mid sixties. Maybe it takes longer than 24 hours for the T-88 to set up, but it appears it just is not penetrating the wood surfaces like the Titebond does. I haven't used a lot of clamping pressure on the T-88, but on my next samples I will use  about the same clamping pressure I have been using with the Titebond, even though the direction on the T-88 warns of to much clamping pressure. Wondering if others have ran similar test and what their results were

Going through some old post, and noticed this one. Seemed fairly important. Though not a shred of advice or critique?  Thoughts anyone?

[grdev]

after doing some more searches on T-88, I found that Doug Fir needs to be sanded before gluing as it secretes a film of sorts that blocks the  penetration of the T-88. This contradicts what I have been told about wood glue joints in the past by some. after I tried this my glue samples were all great, the wood always broke before the glue joint. This information is on the T-88 web site concerning gluing Dug Fir. 
I too was a little surprised there were no comments on something as important as this, but it is what it is.

[Dan_]

I too was a little surprised there were no comments on something as important as this, but it is what it is.

I recall quite a bit of discussion on it, and that Gil led himself to the correct answer. 

I assume no one apparently had run up on the problem before because they all used Spruce or Pine...

www.eaglersnest.com/forum/index.php?topic=475