XL wing rib dimensions

[wojtekseta]

Would anyone be so kind and gave me the correct rib dimensions? On the attached pictures I show dimensions which I mesured on my copy of the plans. The purchased plans do not even have dimensions A and B - quite basic. From the drawing of the fuselage I suppose that A should be in the range of 27 - 29 inches, depending on the position of the wing mounts relative to the upper fuselage nodes (which is also not shown in the plans).
I assume that C should be 6 7/8 (front spar height), H little less (taper) and then all vertical dimensions should be proportionally reduced - but I'm not sure. I can print it scaled down, but then the dimensions A and B could be too small.
I need proper dimensions from A to H - thank you in advance for any help.

[Flyguyeddy]

get the iron designs full rib drawing and youd be just fine    scott in iowa has em

[wojtekseta]

get the iron designs full rib drawing and youd be just fine    scott in iowa has em

Yes, I know it, but I'm here in Europe and I need a few points to connect them by curved line
Maybe someone?

[Flyguyeddy]

That black and white bar on the left of the nose rib is in inches. 

[wojtekseta]

That black and white bar on the left of the nose rib is in inches.

Thanks, I didn't know it. It looks like vertically is streched about 1/16 per inch.
What about horizontal dimensions A i B? What should be the distance between spars, and between of front of rear spar and trailing edge?

[Dan_]

My plans show the 27.5 inch dimension, but the one from the front of the rear spar to a point the rib is trimmed to be 3/8 inches tall is given as 18.75 inches. 


Plans came in an envelope labeled XL-33.

[wojtekseta]

My plans show the 27.5 inch dimension, but the one from the front of the rear spar to a point the rib is trimmed to be 3/8 inches tall is given as 18.75 inches. Plans came in an envelope labeled XL-33.

Thank you very much, Dan_

[scottiniowa]

Most have heard my spiel (is that the correct spelling?) on the wing rib drawings, but basically, it goes like this.

I decided that a builder- should not have to ask about what measures what? or any other detail on the wing.. So I used X/Y plot dimensions from the nearest published coordinates to the wing.

the drew every part to match my drawings, right down to the gussets.  And then every other additional thing concerning the wing.  Including the diagonals, nose ribs, ailerons, K blocks and so on.  AS always, if someone feels I left something out, please do tell. 

Now for the nitty gritty performance details-  
Yes my drawings are "slightly" different in a few obscure points...but there is slight chance this will produce a detectable performance change.  It could be .1-.4 mph faster or slower  but certainly not enough to be able tell. 

so in final thoughts-   on this aircraft or any other...if worth building, it is worth building right on the mark...no wondering if it suppose to be this way or that way....  that is all I intended... I never said I would build a better plane, simply helping other build the wing faster...without wondering about the details.

cheers
Scott

[Tom XL-7]

To add some detail to the spiel. What Scott has done is what you need to be aware of. 
It would be entirely likely that you could build a set of ribs, your spars, your nose ribs; finished and sanded and have a bunch of stuff that does not fit up. 
In particular, the rib to spar to nose rib. If you don't think it through and adjust you will most likely find an unwelcome surprise.
 Scott has done that for you, or you can do it yourself.
   I build by hand and eye nearly every day. I build, I fit, I build.  So your spar must match your rib and your nose rib must fair into the beveled spar. 
Whats the actual angle on that spar? I really don't care and won't waste my time to find out. It has to work smoothly. Now My spar (structural) will be to plan height
The rest will be checked to fit. Hold what is important, blend what isn't.
 I had no problem fitting together the adventure which is the nose rib drawing. I used a flat bottom and the dimension between the spar and had at it.
 Since then I have hand drawn a rib from coordinates published on the old yahoo site. And I have another source of paper cutouts from another aircraft. They are all close enough to each other that I don't feel it matters. (plus or minus 1/16 here and there)  I do not intend to re-enter the atmosphere from orbit in this machine. Nor do aerobatics or exceed the sound barrier. Any of the three will put around at 65 mph just fine.
How many examples of eagles are flying? Enough that if all were at one field it would appear as a termite swarm. How many have identical ribs?
 Probably none if you look hard enough. 
 
Don't weld both wing mounts until you know what YOUR wing measures. 
Don't make up a landing gear without having the fittings on the fuselage. It is simple if you keep things in order. 
This ain't no lego.
Tom XL-7

[Vince Carucci]

If I could add my 2 cents following a couple of well articulated answers from (Scott/Tom); these are high-lift, high-drag wings for a slow aircraft. The PRECISE dimensions of the ribs don't matter. What matters is that all ribs are the same shape. The rib drawings may look raw the first time you view them, but they are perfectly adequate tools for making a jig. And a good jig with give you usable ribs. Then build the spars to match the ribs, etc., etc....

If you feel you need a clean professional drawing, order a set from Scott. 

Vince

[wojtekseta]

Thanks for the comments.
Rib-O-Mattic and test rib done (thanks again to Darren Crompton for a great build log).
Rib made from pine - 125g (4.4 oz).

[scottiniowa]

Thanks for the comments.
Rib-O-Mattic and test rib done (thanks again to Darren Crompton for a great build log).
Rib made from pine - 125g (4.4 oz).

 I find the ingenuity and abilities that folks have building the XL and the other deviations of the Eagles so GREAT.   This and other ideas should help builders “ go fast well”  or is that “ how well we go fast” in the build process.  Just excellent! 

Well done!

[914pete]

Thanks for the comments.
Rib-O-Mattic and test rib done (thanks again to Darren Crompton for a great build log).
Rib made from pine - 125g (4.4 oz).

Hi, I'm going to be starting my ribs soon and was thinking of making a similar jig.  How is the 1/4" spruce held in place with your jig?

[wojtekseta]

Hi, I'm going to be starting my ribs soon and was thinking of making a similar jig.  How is the 1/4" spruce held in place with your jig?

I'm not sure if I understood your question  good. The stripes are firmly embedded in grooves cut with a vertical router.

[914pete]

Hi, I'm going to be starting my ribs soon and was thinking of making a similar jig.  How is the 1/4" spruce held in place with your jig?

I'm not sure if I understood your question  good. The stripes are firmly embedded in grooves cut with a vertical router.

Thanks!  I looked at the Rib-O-Matic link.  I couldn't tell from your pic.