LEXL-A67

[CHARLES DEBOER]

Starting to install the struts.  Drilling and cutting the struts make me nervous.  I have leveled the fuse and added 3" of dihedral but how do you adjust the strut to hold that 3" of dihedral?  I have attached some pictures to show what I have so far need suggestions alignment, drilling and cutting the strut to length.
The little hold and leveling jig says "spar" but has since been remarked Strut.

[Tom H]

Charles, maybe I don't understand your dilemma.  But, if you support the wings in the 3" dihedral position, then make and attach the struts to fit that wing position, the wings will remain at the 3" dihedral position after you remove the temporary supports.

We made our struts by fitting and attaching the fuselage end first, then making/fitting/attaching the wing end last. 

Hope that helps.

[CHARLES DEBOER]

I want to make sure the hole alignment is straight between the fuse and the wing attach point.  Also aligning the fitting inserted into the strut with the holes drilled into the strut.  The fitting moves around inside the strut while attempting to drill the two pieces so that the holes stay aligned.  If the fitting moves 1/16" the holes are miss-aligned.

[Bob S.]

Clamp the fitting/strut so they do NOT move around before drilling.  

Also don't forget to set the wing chord incidence to zero at the wing tip. (+3degrees at the root = washout) Adjust with the rear strut.

I had my struts cut to minimum for shipping and used a longer inner fitting at the fuselage thus allowing for some room to clamp then fashioned a sheet cuff to cover the strut/fitting. But you are building the XL and may be different.

[Vince Carucci]

Bob S:

Regarding your last message, I get what you mean by zero incidence at wing tip, but I don't quite get what you mean by "+3 degrees at the root = washout". Can you reword or further explain? Thanks.

Vince

[Bob S.]

Your wing should have some amount of positive incidence at the root and zero incidence at the wingtip there by creating a washout on the wing as a whole. You want the wing to stall at the root first. (zero at the tip, +3 at the root = washout) I am not sure what the incidence is reccomended for the XL.

[Vince Carucci]

Bob S:

Thanks. I had to Google search WASHOUT as it applies to wings. But now that I understand the definition, your explanation makes perfect sense. Thanks.

Vince

[CHARLES DEBOER]

Your wing should have some amount of positive incidence at the root and zero incidence at the wingtip there by creating a washout on the wing as a whole. You want the wing to stall at the root first. (zero at the tip, +3 at the root = washout) I am not sure what the incidence is reccomended for the XL.

According to the drawings for the XL there is a "built in" +2 degrees incidence at the root.  When I put my super duper laser level on the flat bottom of my wing it says +2 degrees.

[rfeenstra]

On my DE, I didn't put in the recommended amount of washout.  I hated to twist the wing that much!  Stalls are benign.  Plus, I put an AOA indicator in front of my face so that I stay away from that flight regimen during normal operations.  I seem to remember that some have said that they didn't put in any washout to maintain maximum lift.

[Dan_]

On my DE, I didn't put in the recommended amount of washout.  I hated to twist the wing that much!  Stalls are benign.  Plus, I put an AOA indicator in front of my face so that I stay away from that flight regimen during normal operations.  I seem to remember that some have said that they didn't put in any washout to maintain maximum lift.

I think Steve Kiblinger dint put any and maybe Spencer...  

Excessive dihedral is a pet peeve of mine.  The plane is already a high wing, it is not going to flip.

The more dihedral you put the less cross wind capability you have, and you are giving up lift.  

The wind is going to get under the upwind wing...

Put just engouh dihedral in so that the wing does not look like it is drooping.  About 3/4"...  Maybe 1".

[CHARLES DEBOER]

Excessive dihedral is a pet peeve of mine.  The plane is already a high wing, it is not going to flip.

The more dihedral you put the less cross wind capability you have, and you are giving up lift.  

The wind is going to get under the upwind wing...

Put just engouh dihedral in so that the wing does not look like it is drooping.  About 3/4"...  Maybe 1".

Why did Leonard put in the design 3" of dihedral?

[Dan_]

Why did Leonard put in the design 3" of dihedral?

I can't speak for Leonard, you will have to ask him that question.  I am just stating an opinion.

Perhaps he only wants to fly with no wind.  

[rfeenstra]

I did put the dihedral in my DE but not much washout.  Maybe I should try less dihedral.  that would mean cutting my struts which means it would not be easy to put it back.  I think I'll leave it alone!

[Dan_]

I did put the dihedral in my DE but not much washout.  Maybe I should try less dihedral.  that would mean cutting my struts which means it would not be easy to put it back.  I think I'll leave it alone!

I looked at the Baby Ace web site today...  

It uses the same airfoil as the Eagles, and 54 inch chord.  The D model is virtually the same plane as the DE but heavier with the Continental engines.

It has 2 inches of dihedral.  (also recomends CG at 30% chord)

I would not change dihedral on a plane already finished unless I had trouble in crosswinds...  Some people live in high wind areas.

Enough aileron response at landing speed in reasonable flying conditions should do it for you.  


It has not been an issue apparently.  It is just a personal peeve I have...

[rfeenstra]

Interesting.  I have found that 30 to 33% seems about right for my DE.  Much more, and i loose some stability.  Less and it's nose heavy.  Now that I'm a bit used to flying it, I accept a little nose heaviness for less weight in the tail.  I actually had to land it dead stick once (my fault) and found it glided just fine and flared quite nicely at that CG setting.  One of the best landings I have ever made with it.