Engine mount? Help needed rubber mount location ect. Thx Gary

[Garyverrier]

Help, engine mount sta# 1 hole size, rubber mount orientation ect. Thx Gary

[Bob S.]

Legal Eagle? or XL or Dbl Eagle or ?

[Garyverrier]

Legel eagle xl.

[scottiniowa]

Help, engine mount sta# 1 hole size, rubber mount orientation ect. Thx Gary

 Gary,
your page 8A on your plans, what dimension are you looking for that you feel is not there?

it covers your questions, but maybe you were asking about a different method of motor mount?

I will help if I can, but presently would only repeat what you already probably have.

[Garyverrier]

Looking at page 8a  on the Lexi what size hole is drilled in the 4 corner webbing ? Engine bolts are 5/16 or 3/8. Does the alum filler slid on bolt and slide inside rubber motor mount bushing ? How long is the filler tube ? If you can help with this info that would be great. Thanks Gary.

[Bob S.]

"Looking at page 8a  on the Lexi what size hole is drilled in the 4 corner webbing ? Engine bolts are 5/16 or 3/8. Does the alum filler slid on bolt and slide inside rubber motor mount bushing ? How long is the filler tube ? If you can help with this info that would be great. Thanks Gary."

The Engine mount tube diameter is 1-1/8" OD, so that is the size hole in the 4 corner webs. The ID of the sliding aluminum 'filler' should be large enough to fit over the rubber Continental mounts, (IMSMR that would be 1/2").  IF the steel engine mount tube OD is 1-1/8" with 1/8" wall (as shown on drawing) that makes the ID 7/8" dia. therefore the OD of the aluminum filler should be 7/8" dia. or a tad (.01 or .02) smaller to slide inside) On my std. Legal Eagle the sliding aluminum filler was right at 1.0" in length with 45 degree flare cut on each end that matches with the 45 degree flare on the 1-1/8" steel mount tubes. IF the filler is 1" long then the engine mount tubes need to be 1/4" longer (1/8" flare on each end at 45 degrees)  BUT is not all THAT important if you make the aluminum filler a bit longer then make the steel sleeve so that it matches the 45 degree flare on each end OR if you make the steel mount tube any particular length then match the aluminum to fit and match the 45 degree flare of the steel tubes. Be aware on the bottom two studs (if you use them) are quite short so don't make the steel sleeves too long or you may be too short on room for nuts & washers! You WILL want to use big like fender washers on each end of the rubber bushings. At LEAST on the outside to keep the bolt from pulling thru and releasing your engine from the rest of the aircraft!

Hope this helps.

[scottiniowa]

"Looking at page 8a  on the Lexi what size hole is drilled in the 4 corner webbing ? Engine bolts are 5/16 or 3/8. Does the alum filler slid on bolt and slide inside rubber motor mount bushing ? How long is the filler tube ? If you can help with this info that would be great. Thanks Gary."

The Engine mount tube diameter is 1-1/8" OD, so that is the size hole in the 4 corner webs. The ID of the sliding aluminum 'filler' should be large enough to fit over the rubber Continental mounts, (IMSMR that would be 1/2").  IF the steel engine mount tube OD is 1-1/8" with 1/8" wall (as shown on drawing) that makes the ID 7/8" dia. therefore the OD of the aluminum filler should be 7/8" dia. or a tad (.01 or .02) smaller to slide inside) On my std. Legal Eagle the sliding aluminum filler was right at 1.0" in length with 45 degree flare cut on each end that matches with the 45 degree flare on the 1-1/8" steel mount tubes. IF the filler is 1" long then the engine mount tubes need to be 1/4" longer (1/8" flare on each end at 45 degrees)  BUT is not all THAT important if you make the aluminum filler a bit longer then make the steel sleeve so that it matches the 45 degree flare on each end OR if you make the steel mount tube any particular length then match the aluminum to fit and match the 45 degree flare of the steel tubes. Be aware on the bottom two studs (if you use them) are quite short so don't make the steel sleeves too long or you may be too short on room for nuts & washers! You WILL want to use big like fender washers on each end of the rubber bushings. At LEAST on the outside to keep the bolt from pulling thru and releasing your engine from the rest of the aircraft!

Hope this helps.

As Bob S showed, every hole call out was shown on 8A sheet.   I have tried this before, but will once again for the sake of showing what I have found, or at least give you guys something to think about.  With supporting numbers, I will visually show how the above parts come together... in this case perhaps truly a picture worth a 1000 words.   This will require the help of at least two builders that have the rubber bushings but engine not yet mounted.  Please see the attached PDF file and measure yours and compare with my measurements.   This is easy- Print my PDF, sit at your kitchen table, and measure yours. See how your numbers compare to mine.  Don't worry about the angles... in fact, that is what this is all about.   So the numbers that are critical in the mock up are simple.  IN fact, if you hit quote, and fill in the Measurements, we will be good to go.

• The dia. of the large end
• the dia of the small end
• The length of the large end
• The length of the small end
• Total length less 3&4 above, will give you the middle length  (you can check it as well) 
• center hole i.d.

That's it folks.  If I get two to measure and the three of us are very close- I will draw up an simple example of the assembly.  And this area can be put to bed so to speak.

[Bob S.]

Might also remind you to measure & record the EXACT locations of the bolt locations. (They are not as simple as say 2" in and up/down...) IF I remember correctly three are "square" (same distance apart) but one is an odd dimension...) but my memory is not as good as it once was.
   

[scottiniowa]

Might also remind you to measure & record the EXACT locations of the bolt locations. (They are not as simple as say 2" in and up/down...) IF I remember correctly three are "square" (same distance apart) but one is an odd dimension...) but my memory is not as good as it once was.

Does this mean you feel page 8A is not correct?  There is no square horizontal to vertical hole placements as shown. Though they are depicted as being centered between each other VERTically As shown on photo.
Note- vertical distance is based on center line of bottom two holes 
Horizontal spread is based on center line used for vertical separation.

[Garyverrier]

Thank Guys that will get the job moving.

[Bob S.]

ScottinIowa: Those dimensions are not on my sheet 8A. But very good to know. Maybe that's why my Legal Eagle is not correct. One of my bushings is off a bit (I didn't build that part)...Good to know!! Thanks,

[scottiniowa]

ScottinIowa: Those dimensions are not on my sheet 8A. But very good to know. Maybe that's why my Legal Eagle is not correct. One of my bushings is off a bit (I didn't build that part)...Good to know!! Thanks,

Well that would explain the questions, Though I find it puzzling that NO one else has said similar. Oh well, as long as your on track again. 

It should be noted that perhaps I am the ONLY one with these dimensions, and if that is the case, THEY may not correct. NO one has said yeah or ney to this. Same for the rubber bushings.. If my dimensions are correct, we are not putting same shape into the funnel of steel fire wall  barrel with the corresponding alum. filler. 

So it goes.
Scott

[joecnc2006]

here is a capture from my XL plans.

[scottiniowa]

Yeah, Looks like Joe's CNC and mine are identical.. At least the measurements are the same.

[cheto]

I found this topic in a search. Lots of good information. Thanks. My question is, do we have to fabricate the steel tube and aluminum filler? If so, are there any suggestions about how to do it for those of us without a machine shop?
-Chet