Shane's XL L-98

[Shanep1330]

Hi guys, just got my plans last week and so far have read through them several times and organized them into a book. There seem to be some gaps in the plans, but nothing I'm going to stress about right now. One little step at a time, right?

So, I'm a first time builder, but I have built ribs before for a Pitts Special. I'm trying to figure out how to construct my build table. I've seen one using TJI beams and think that is how I want to go. Any input?

I'm looking forward to building and flying this little aircraft. I'm a mechanical engineering major, currently going to school.

Thanks,
Shane

[PropMan]

Welcome to the group,
Many ways to build the table, the tji beam works great. Mine were 2x4 an plywood. 

Frank

[Dan_]

Hi guys, just got my plans last week and so far have read through them several times and organized them into a book. There seem to be some gaps in the plans, but nothing I'm going to stress about right now. One little step at a time, right?

So, I'm a first time builder, but I have built ribs before for a Pitts Special. I'm trying to figure out how to construct my build table. I've seen one using TJI beams and think that is how I want to go. Any input?

I'm looking forward to building and flying this little aircraft. I'm a mechanical engineering major, currently going to school.

Thanks,
Shane

Here are some ideas...

[Shanep1330]

Thanks Guys. Dan that looks pretty good and I think I'll go that route.

[Tom XL-7]

Welcome to the group Shane. 
I will start by putting out a popular table.  The Eaa Chapter 1000 work table plans   
http://www.eaa1000.av.org/technicl/worktabl/worktabl.htm Don't bother Dan has posted it while I was typing.
If the link doesn't work just search chapter 1000 work table.
  I have seen these and picked them up. The are very sturdy. probably too sturdy. They are not efficient  and the leg design needs to be built very precise in the fit up to gain the strength they think they are getting.
Properly built you could probably rebuild bulldozer engines on this table.
The heaviest item you will have on the tables at one time is close to 35 pounds. ok with jigs and clamps and tools -50#. maybe we should upgrade to 100 pounds plus if you want to do your engine on there.
 A consideration is whether you want one big table or two small tables or if you had 6 you could run a three ring circus. Wing, wing, fuselage. add some more and you could do tailfeathers also.
  The engineered joists would be exceptionally strong but that may not be what you need. 
What you need is a table or tables that can give you a relatively flat surface of 13 to 14 feet. 
I will build mine out of 2x4s selected for a straight edge.  with a particle board top. If you are concerned with flatness metal studs are pretty straight. If you go that route I suggest you screw through the stud into the wood. Sometimes metal stud are prone to strip out..
 I have attempted to attach a sketch of a 7 foot table. I plan to build two.
Tom xl-7

[Dan_]

The trade off here with the EAA table is not having an overhanging edge to allow easier clamping, opposed to being able to easily clamp the tables themselves together...  Either side by side or end to end.

Also, one could  keep the crowns up on the framing and use a hand plane to get flatness.

Metal studs are uniform unless damaged, and stay that way.  I would not consider using anything less than 20 gauge.

[914pete]

Welcome Shane.  I built mine with 16" engineered wood I beams.  I was able to pick up two 12' footers for $17.  These were returns and cheap otherwise I would have bought 14 footers. I built out one end another 1'6" with 2x4's for the XL fuse to fit. I used Radiata plywood for the top and had a sheet of particle board laying around for the bottom. The lumber yard ripped the ply for me. The Radiata ply is sweet but def more $ then one needs to spend.  With the ply screwed down to the top and particle board screwed to the bottom I had a very straight, really long flat sturdy "box".  Rather then build a lot of 2x4 legs I simply rested the "box" on 4 cinder blocks.  I had to shim one block just a little due to the floor being a little uneven.  Cinder blocks are exactly the same size and only cost $1.50 ea.  This gave me a table height of 34".  The table top needs to be 30" wide for the XL. (leaves some wiggle room.)  I did allow the radiata ply to over hang the I-beams by 1.75" so I could clamp to it.  That came in handy.  It took less the 1.5 hrs to assemble this table and can easily stand up on one end and moved to the corner of the shop out of the way or what I'm going to do is unscrew the top and bottom and widen the I-beams when I start building the wings.

[Dave Stroud]

When building any table, temporary or not I'll use Crezone as the top surface. It's a brand name of sign makers board and any sign supply shop will have it. Very good quality 1/2" plywood coated with a very flat paper like surface. Takes paint very well. Many custom boat builders will use it for wall panels etc. A little expensive but a good value.

[Tom XL-7]

Not familiar with it so the following may not apply.
Keep in mind this top will likely be scorched or burnt during welding and could get epoxy drips on it as well.  I am planning on MDF as a sacrificial top. I don,t like MDF for anything other than a substrate for a laminate counter top. It is heavy, doesn't hold screws well. But it will lie flat if supported correctly.  Some plywood can have some odd undulations unless we are buying a high-grade panel. I don't want to spend any more than necessary for something that will get abused.
  Tom XL-7

[stevejahr]

My experience with wood...

Natural wood these days seems to always be twisted and warped in one way or another so I do not use it much with the exception being hardwood.
Man made materials seem to be much better in consistency and being straight so I would am biased towards their use.  Read that as metal, plastic or engineered wood products.
Screws hold better than nails and glue of just about any kind even better.  Over time the leg joints take a lot of abuse and will loosen up if just nailed or bolted.

I am liking that bench 914pete built... looks like you could hide/store all kinds of stuff inside that.
I am also liking the idea of stuff being on wheels to move around.  I drag stuff now and that sucks.

[Shanep1330]

I ended up finding some engineered wooden I-beams. These were topped and bottomed with BC ply and overhang on both sides for clamping.
I appreciate everyone's input.

Here's a picture of the 16' table without blocks to bring up to height and level.

I have enough to make another table 8' long and will to set up my rib jig after I use it for the tail.