A little progress XL H-58

[rfeenstra]

I can see that your coping skills are a lot better than mine were!  My A&P said, when I asked about a bit of a gap to fill, "that's what they make thicker welding rod for!"  Hmmm......

[Chuck in Indiana]

This may be of use.. I just found it, and am headed out to try it. Trying to cope these compound angles is difficult for me.
https://metalgeek.com/static/cope_old.pcgi

[Chuck in Indiana]

^^^ So, do you have an info mine on line that I haven't discovered? One of the reasons I'm doing this thread is I haven't found much on the "how to do, what to know"    when building a Legal Eagle kind of stuff.

[Dan_]

video how to...

https://www.eaglersnest.com/forum/index.php?topic=2299.msg13092#msg13092

[Theodore]

i still have my Vemco arm around here somewhere...
When you think about Piper cubs in early 1940's just pencil and ruler. CAD is great for visual coping/notching templates are very good building tool.
Dan's video is good however, the drawn line on tube is too thick, scoring tool best instead of marker, What is maximun gap again?, .050? the thickness of the tubing right?
The wheel dressed to 5/8 and 1/2" (arbor) is what im working on, also well worn flap disk and die grinder w/burr.
SAFETY GLASSES!!!
Goto a muffler shop or custom welding shop (the pros make it look easy)

Wow tin snips, i will try that! i have quality set from parapet flashing, gutter and downspout work. One is 'needle nose'

[scottiniowa]

 
When you think about Piper cubs in early 1940's just pencil and ruler. CAD is great for visual coping/notching templates are very good building tool.
Dan's video is good however, the drawn line on tube is too thick, scoring tool best instead of marker, What is maximun gap again?, .050? the thickness of the tubing right?
The wheel dressed to 5/8 and 1/2" (arbor) is what im working on, also well worn flap disk and die grinder w/burr.
 SAFETY GLASSES!!!
Goto a muffler shop or custom welding shop (the pros make it look easy)

Lots of ways to skin the cat here,  in the case of the video listed by Dan, the thickness of the line didn't matter, in fact he made it thicker on purpose, and then grinds down till it just disappears, and the scribe works well if you have great light when grinding.

As listed here, there are several good ways to "grind to the line" and often a combination works well.  There are even those that seem to make a tin snip work well on .035, but I never mastered that and had to spend as much time touching it up, as I did before the snips.    A tiny bit of the process concerns time vs money,  Some ways go really fast, but can often lead to do overs.

I have said it before but it bears repeating,  Do a bit of calculation and cut your max length tubes first from your stock, and keep calculating down until you have only short tubes left for your short stock, it will amaze you how little waste there is.  If you take from the 1st full length, and then grab the next one, pretty soon you have a few assorted short ends, but have mid length tubes to cut yet, leaving you short for those.  I will see if I can find the "cut list" for max length tubes for each one. it is pretty simple and done on a spread sheet to keep track of things.

Best of success!

[scottiniowa]

Looks like that might not have worked, so here is a file that if you have Excel,  you should be able to open.

[Chuck in Indiana]

Looks like that might not have worked, so here is a file that if you have Excel,  you should be able to open.

Yeah, this one works. Can you delete the other one? 

[Chuck in Indiana]

Ok, the aft fuselage is tacked. I think it's time to start on the front.
Here's station one:

I'm nothing if not stubborn  and I've been determined to figure out this TIG thingy. One thing I've learned the hard way is a $3 Amazon gas lens does not equal a $20 Weldcraft gas lens. 
Far from beautiful, but I'm getting (ahem) airworthy welds, now.

[Kamcoman77]

Your tack welding looks a lot better than mine (mig)

[Theodore]

Chuck's angles are on face, Kam's got'em inside, i was going to put inside too. cutting the .062 right now.
Chuck? Did you layout the mounts? ...oh wait your not using VW, going w/Verner?
I hadsome trouble with 45's they off half deg.(too much gap) so i put 3/4" ply on my saw, much better second time, I not ready to show my welds,  soon though, keeping arch length short working the pedal makin' good tacks yes.
"airworthy welds" like that, can i use that one? Lol

[Chuck in Indiana]

"airworthy welds" like that, can i use that one? Lol

Absolutely.. 

Chuck? Did you layout the mounts? ...oh wait your not using VW, going w/Verner?

Yeah, after all is welded, I'll just lay them out and drill/ream 3/8" for the engine mount.

I hadsome trouble with 45's they off half deg.(too much gap) so i put 3/4" ply on my saw, much better second time,

I just cut them to length on the saw, set up an accurate 45 degree miter on my disc sander, and pushed those bad boys into it. Came out pretty close. Not as good as Keiths, of course..

[Theodore]

Link to older thread from Charles, Steve K, and Bob S.

https://www.eaglersnest.com/forum/index.php?topic=282.msg1739#msg1739

[Theodore]

What kind of bit is this? Can i put this in my drill press?
Im looking at buy 5/8" full round file maybe 1/2" too. McMaster Carr has 'em.
Peace.

[jrbirdman47]

Looks like a "roughing" end mill. A little pricey if you buy them just for notching tubing. Don't know if they'd work in a drill press though as you would likely have to feed it to the tube from the side rather than the end like a drill. I guess you could build a jig to do just that though, maybe using a piece of angle iron that was centered on and pointed at the end mill to cradle the tube and just push the  end of the tube into the side of the end mill. Might be tough to hold the tubing so as to get a good cut though.