A little progress XL H-58

[Chuck in Indiana]

This is why I like the Poly Fiber process. This is poly brush that I peeled off the bottom of the mixing cup, and it is totally flexible. It stays that way, too. I'm a fan. 

[Chuck in Indiana]

This morning I decided to touch up all the places I couldn't get to when the fuselage was on the rotisserie and those places I just plain didn't get heavy enough while trying to spray outside in a gentle breeze. Made up way more paint than I needed because it would only take a thimble full or two. Fired up my air brush and painted everything in about 5 minutes.
Now.
I've mentioned before that if you don't totally strip and clean your gun when painting epoxy it will be toast. Pro paint shops sell a kit of brushes of all sizes, pins for cleaning out really small holes, etc. I recommend that to your attention. Cleaning even something as simple as this little siphon air brush took half an hour.

[Chuck in Indiana]

All that is left to do is cover the wings. But first..  I need to leak check the fuel tank. While I'm at it, I'll test the oil tank.
Put a pound or so on the tank and sprayed a mix of water and a few drops of Dawn dish soap over all the welds looking for bubbles.

Ditto the oil tank.

All good. We can continue. Sometimes, YOU get the bear. 

[Chuck in Indiana]

Fuel tank in for the last time.. yea..  And something to do tomorrow.

[Chuck in Indiana]

The Poly fiber (actually Stits, everything I have is old.. )sez to cover the bottom of a wing first. Put the leading edge 1 inch below the chord line. Shrink to 250F. Did that.

Then, cover the top putting the leading edge of the covering right on the chord line, like so..my sweetie and I snapped chalk lines to keep it straight. If you don't, it will show under the leading edge finishing tape and look bad.

Laid the top cover in location, and cut a hole for the gas filler neck.

Had to leave, so didn't want to get into the middle of something, and quit for the day.
The plan is to cover the root in 3 pieces so I can sort out the fuel lines later. I *may* leave the tank bay open.. haven't decided.
So, tomorrow.. or when I get back to it..I'll glue the leading edge right on the line, pull everything taut, and glue the trailing edge. Then, the tip, and finally the root. Shrink it to 250F, then both sides to 350F. This is all out of the Stits manual..

[Chuck in Indiana]

One more bite out of the elephant. Turned it over, glued the inspection ring where I can (hopefully)  get the aileron hinge pin in, and brushed the first coat of poly brush.

Tomorrow, I'll take a few minutes and dope a doily over the inspection ring.

[Chuck in Indiana]

Ok, take your aviation mechanic's (tm) embroidery hoops and shrink some fabric at 250F. Cut it out and make reinforcement patches. Dope those down around the things that stick out..

Had my lovely assistant come out and help install the aileron to make no shit sure it was still moving freely.

It is, and I think the Iron Designs aileron is an improvement. Yes, it takes longer to do, and adds a few ounces, but again.. I think.. it will have less adverse aileron yaw. Time will tell, and the time is finally getting shorter. 
 

[DA Miller]

Chuck, this peeks (engr spelling) my curiosity. What is it about the Iron Design aileron that lessens adverse aileron yaw ?  Thanks for your help.

[Chuck in Indiana]

Oh, that is only a guess on my part. It will certainly be more effective, and will have to move less to cause the same roll rate.

[DA Miller]

Oh. Thanks

[Chuck in Indiana]

Haven't posted for a bit, been at a Guzzi rally..
How to keep fuel from getting inside the wing? Hmmm. Decided to put a couple of coats of poly brush on the neck, make a doily that was a really tight fit on it, and dope it on. I *think* that should do it.

Oh, in case you are wondering how I'm going to vent the tank, I'll chuck up the cap in the lathe and ream a 1/4" diameter hole in it. Bend a 1/4" aluminum tube 90 degrees, and face it forward.

[Chuck in Indiana]

Put as much finishing tape as (I hope) is necessary, installed the fuel line fittings, made a cap vent, and I'm calling this wing ready for paint. I painted 2 coats of poly brush on everywhere the fabric touches, and (hopefully again)painting poly brush through the fabric will glue the fabric down without rib stitching.

[Chuck in Indiana]

I've been waiting (sort of) patiently for either Aircraft Spruce or Wicks aircraft to get 2 inch bias finishing tape back in stock. Since I have a very little left from the last airplane, and our EAA chapter has aged out.. I think I'm the only one building anything..I'm trying to be Scotch with what I have and just use it where absolutely necessary.

It doesn't look as good, of course, but a guy's gotta do what a guy's gotta do.  Besides that, Ancestry says I am 27% Scotch, so it should be ok.
No reason to do this picture, I just wanted to look at it..(shrug)

[Chuck in Indiana]

I'm finishing up the last covering job  and it dawned on my that I haven't shown any techniques. After all, the stated purpose of this forum is to show how to build a Legal Eagle. I've been an EAA technical counselor since the 80s, so I've been slackin.'
Here, we're covering the end of the wing. The first idea most have when trying to get fabric to go around a curved surface is to cut pie shaped wedges out of it and glue it down.
Don't do that. It's not as strong, and looks like crap. Getcha a piece of cardboard to hold behind that area and shrink the fabric with your little iron as necessary to keep it from puckering.
I've used this on the tail feathers with varying radii, also.

Here's a trick for getting a nice job on the trailing edge.Clamps to hold it straight while putting a wet coat of poly brush down, making sure you have plenty where the little tits from the pinking shears are.

Lay the tape in the wet paint and work the paint up through the fabric with a dry brush (or your thumb).
*let it dry until the solvents evaporate* about 15 minutes, then you can continue on to the next bay.

 Put a clamp at the end, and do the next bay, etc. You'll have a nice straight line and won't have bad adhesion from the tape being pulled loose as you pick it up and apply more dope.
ta da..

Another trick when wrapping fabric or finishing tape around a 90 degree (or more) corner is to take your iron at 250F and crease it all along the edge.
Here you can see where I did that except for the 18 inches or so yet to do. If you don't do that, it will be very difficult to get the tape to lay down in the poly brush. It will pop back up before the solvents evaporate and cause you grief.

Back to the end..
Once you have the fabric wrapped all around and doped down, you can set your iron at 250 and shrink it evenly. Then.. set it at 350 and finish shrinking. At that point it is coated with one coat of poly brush and the final tapes installed. That, and making some reinforcing patches for the strut fittings and inspection plate are tomorrow's job.

[Chuck in Indiana]

Ferinstance.. no need to cut pie shaped wedges when going around corners..

And with a little careful heating and backing up with the cardboard..

Nothin to it.
Still need to put a 3 inch tape on the leading edge and that will do it for covering.