A little progress XL H-58

[Chuck in Indiana]

I *assume* that anyone that has come this far has done a fair amount of thinking about it, but there is a gotcha lurking in the wings.. don't forget to put an .8mm shim under the spar so the leading edge will (eventually) line up with the ribs.
I borrowed a friend's scroll saw to trim the gussets on the ribs to fit the aileron spar. Didn't work. Tried a coping saw. Didn't like that. Used a file with a "safe" edge, and it literally took 10 minutes to do them. Overthinking got me again.

[Chuck in Indiana]

Rear spar installed, but still far from mixing glue.

Drilling that aileron hinge location in the rib jig and parts pays dividends, now..

The aileron spar needs to be installed before the tip ribs. The drawings don't show the location of the lightening holes. That means the designer doesn't think it is important, but probably it would be good for them to be sort of symmetrical. 
If you are finding this thread in the future, here's a quicky cad drawing with the aileron holes called out if your spar is close to what Leonard's is.. starting from the aileron root. Mine is .03" longer than his, but no big deal.

Another small bite off the elephant.

[914pete]

I *assume* that anyone that has come this far has done a fair amount of thinking about it, but there is a gotcha lurking in the wings.. don't forget to put an .8mm shim under the spar so the leading edge will (eventually) line up with the ribs.
I borrowed a friend's scroll saw to trim the gussets on the ribs to fit the aileron spar. Didn't work. Tried a coping saw. Didn't like that. Used a file with a "safe" edge, and it literally took 10 minutes to do them. Overthinking got me again.

Hi Chuck, I'm close to dry fitting everything for my first wing too and have come across a few gotchas along the way as well. (like the strut attach point bottom hole being very close to the spar cap) I'm not sure I understand what you mean: "don't forget to put an .8mm shim under the spar so the leading edge will (eventually) line up with the ribs." Can you explain a little more or provide a pic? Thanks, Pete

[Chuck in Indiana]

Sure. If all goes to plan  your rib is .16mm taller than the front spar where it meets up. When the .8mm skin is wrapped around the nose rib and glued to the spar, it will then be flush on the top and bottom.
So.. an .8mm shim under the front spar before gluing the rib to the spar will make that happen.
Is it all that important? Well, no, not really. Doing the best you can is only good craftsmanship, though.

[Kamcoman77]

Here is a photo of a mock-up I used to make sure my front spar and nose ribs fit just right. The little piece of 0.8 mm ply under the nose ribs and front spar is what Chuck means about a spacer. The spar and nose ribs have to sit 0.8 mm above your work table when your ribs sit directly on the table. That way the ply covered nose ribs align perfectly with the bottom of your wing ribs.

[Chuck in Indiana]

Just documenting what the aft root of the front spar looks like..it's not terribly clear on the LE drawings, and not shown at all on the ID drawings.

[Tom XL-7]

I see a layer of ply I don't see on my drawings covering the 3/4 filler and over the spar caps. I have the rounded end pads going under all fittings front and back sides 8 total  The space between my fittings would end up being 1" and 1/8" or perhaps more clearly 1.125". My drawings are an old set number 7, But in 2010 and 2012 there were some plan clarifications posted in the yahoo group. I have no idea if newer sets were updated or look like mine.

[Dan_]

Tom and all,
I know Leonard hates computers and typing with a passion.  However he loves EAA and helping people build their own airplanes.

I am sure if you call him he will send any changes to the plans up to the minute. 

He lights up when a builder calls.  He is getting on in years.  Call him.

[Chuck in Indiana]

I had built the spars with plywood on one side only following the Iron Design drawings, and when I did the first "trial assembly," a little bell was ringing in the back of my head saying, "This isn't a normal way to build a spar." 
Sure enough, I had skimmed the LE drawings, and missed this:

I thought, "Shirley    the answer is on the fuselage drawings..there should be a dimension on the wing attach."
It says, "fit to your wing." 
So, I used standard practice and covered the butts on both sides with 1/8" plywood. That meant I had to modify both end ribs. Doing that as we speak.
and it says

[Tom XL-7]

I got an update on 1/9/2010.   Page 35- remove arrow from (1/8 Ply over to filler) in two places... Arrow to plywood fitting bearer remains...
I copied that faithfully right down to the triple periods.

[914pete]

Another head scratcher. I have the same Page 35 "top to bottom with 1/8" ply over both sides" but then on page 36 the gap between the wing attach brackets is 1 1/8". With the ply on the front of the spar already, another on the back and then the 2"x4" wing attach bracket backing of 1/8" ply your at 1 1/4" gap. Being a first time builder, I like to take advise from experienced builders. I must have seen somewhere what Tom mentions below and went that route. The other thing, again having followed the plans, I would have made the wing attach bracket backing of 1/8" ply a little longer. Maybe 4 1/4". As you can see, the back hole is pretty close to the edge of that 1/8" ply.

[scottiniowa]

Friends, I have to admit, I tried to show (anything and everything up to the date WHEN the supplemental plans were produced) including the latest updates at the time.  As has been pointed out over the years, I may have put in, something that was taken out, or left out something that was put in.  If that makes any sense.  Pretty much like most of these have been built... Most of the time, no wrong reasons. 

At the time, they were as good as I could do, and seem to be so, up to this date.   Just like AD's to certified aircraft, there are "things" that come up even 20 years after a aircraft has been flying.  Some even longer- note, Cessna 177 cardinal spars-  

Dan, this would be a great time, since you seem to oversee all things concerning the XL, to make note here, what has changed, what is presently the best recommendation and so on  It simply happens when plans span over many years!.  Or perhaps this is already done. ~~then just point it out ~~  I would be more than happy to add them to my other free clarification pdf's, if could find a precise summary. https://irondesigniowa.com/?post_type=product&s=&product_cat=helpful-pdf-files-for-free-down-loading-for-your-xl-aircraft-building     I used to do this very thing for a few design projects in years past but limitations on my time have forced me to pass the torch.  If someone wants to do the call, and do the posting update, that works to. 

Best of success to all!

[Chuck in Indiana]

I got an update on 1/9/2010.  Page 35- remove arrow from (1/8 Ply over to filler) in two places... Arrow to plywood fitting bearer remains...
I copied that faithfully right down to the triple periods.

Weird. My XL plans were bought from Leonard 6-26-18, so I would say they are pretty current.
Maybe the "original" Legal Eagle only had ply on one side and that is where this conundrum comes from?
Dunno.
I think I'll file this in the "some things aren't meant to be understood" file. 
Needless to say, I'll leave the ply on both sides of the root and strut attach locations. That is "standard" practice.

[Kamcoman77]

I think this is one of those deals where everybody gets to interpret the plans as they see fit. There are a lot of inconsistencies in the plywood to wing fittings area. I noticed the Pietenpol uses a ply web on one side of the spar and a large doubler ply plate on the other (like Chuck has), but no smaller ply plates over the larger plywood, under the metal fittings. Chuck's way is definitely the strongest, but does require 1-1/4" between metal fittings

[Tom XL-7]

add to confusion Hope these PDFs work. first time new printer and it is smarter than me.