A little progress XL H-58

[Kamcoman77]

Look at Les Homan's tank. His may be the shape you are looking for. Here is his ORV build video:

[scottiniowa]

I was just Les's place last weekend, if his tank is 5 gal, then the other one is far larger.  in the below photos.  If anyone wants to supply measurements, I can tell you inside volume in minutes.

[Chuck in Indiana]

5 gallons equals 1155 in3. That is what I have dummied up. The more I look at it the less I like the fuselage tank, though. I'll sleep on it.

[Chuck in Indiana]

Slept on it and had one last look. Nope, I can't fill it from the back with a 5 gallon can, and I don't want to fill it from the front.
While I was thinking about that, I made a sorta like oil tank and had a look. It's just under 5 quarts, and the Verner uses 3. I'll face it forward because Les said what I was originally thinking made the engine run too cool

Decided to go with a wing tank. I'll put it in the right wing, because I've found that when I'm getting in and out I use a hand hold right where the fuel line would run.
Here's the shape.

Making that shape 5" thick will put it right at 5 gallons.
For mounting, I can weld a piece that will sit on the diagonal and bolt to that. In front, I will weld a couple of tabs and screw them to the spar root filler block.

[Chuck in Indiana]

This will simplify that oil tank..
https://shop.spunaluminumgastanks.com/Spun-Aluminum-Gas-Tank-Oil-Tank-Catch-Tank-U-weld-Kit-6x10-UW610.htm

[Chuck in Indiana]

Learned a fair amount today. 
(1) I don't have a big enough piece of poster board to make a full size prototype.
(2) My box break isn't big enough for 5 inch flanges, so I'll have to make a top and bottom with 1" flanges.
(3) I needed to tweek the dimensions to get it to fit in the wing.
(4) That means the sides need to be 5.2" high to hold 5 gallons. There is enough room, fortunately. 

It's all interesting stuff, naturally, and learning is what building an airplane is all about.
Now, let's see if I can weld aluminum.. I spent the afternoon running beads, and went from horrible to tolerable.  Not too bad, considering I've never done it before. I'm still a long way from welding a fuel tank, but.. learning some more. That's a good thing..

[Chuck in Indiana]

Back at it.. I've had to do a little *cough cough* work. 
Sawed and sheared a top and bottom of the fuel tank today. Ran some stiffener beads on my old HF "Pexto machine" with home made (naturally) dies

Somehow managed to not make two bottoms or two tops..

and called it quits for the day.

[Wayne Munich]

You are not going have fun welding that together. I just did two tanks for Globe Swift IO- 360 conversion and built them somewhat differently,

[Chuck in Indiana]

TIG has been and will continue to be a learning experience for me..

[scottiniowa]

TIG has been and will continue to be a learning experience for me..

As in all aspects of craft building, (cars,planes and any metal related, items) the art of Tig welding is just that, art.
With that being said, and these are just generalities with huge differing results.


Welding alum, varies considerably by make up of alum  (3003,5052, 6061) how clean it is. (can't be to clean) and fill rod. Pre-developing your hand-eye-foot coordination, is all important. But alum tig welding adds even a bit more to the element of nice welds by NOT having color change as a cue, but rather the change of the "look" of the metal seam.

I have and always will recommend the "practice test block" --simply being, 6-4" coupons, and if possible of various thicknesses. When these are welded into your block, and then completely covered with weld lines (seams) Then if working well, you might be ready.  I can go into all the reasons this helps, but I would suggest stop reading, and start doing.  By the way, the same exact thing can happen with gas welding.

You may find that you can make perfect seam welding, if you have it laid a certain way on your bench, and horrible welds if in a slightly different position.  The wealth in this, is finding out what works best for you.  A perfect example is that how I weld holes shut in tubes is completely different than the fellow that taught me, but both of our methods work well.

Best of success to you all!

[Chuck in Indiana]

Thanks for that,Scott. I have *plenty* of .040" 5052 that I picked up at OSH.I'll make up a block or two when I can get back to welding. Austin is running the CNC mill right now, and I'm not about to take a chance on smoking the control.  Don't ask me how I know this can happen..

[Chuck in Indiana]

4 boxes of boolits hold the bottom flat against the bench. The one on top is all that is necessary to hold the top flat. Yay. 

The plan is to cleco it all together, drill the various holes, and rivet it together with aluminum pop rivets as necessary. Then..(ahem) simply weld it all up and weld over the pop rivets.

If it doesn't work, I'll always think it should have..

[Wayne Munich]

You are going to have trouble keeping the sides from warping with that lap joint. Aluminum really likes to grow when heated. Keeping a tight fit up will be next to impossible. Lots of quick tacks and move around, don't dwell. Good luck. You will learn a lot.

[mike ketteman]

You'll want atleast one baffle or two to stop some fuel movement and hold the top and bottom together.

this is a pic of my tank (joe engelman design). it's upside down doing a pressure test. We use a metal panel on top of wing to cover tank,so is easy to remove tank.

[Chuck in Indiana]

You'll want atleast one baffle or two to stop some fuel movement and hold the top and bottom together.

this is a pic of my tank (joe engelman design). it's upside down doing a pressure test. We use a metal panel on top of wing to cover tank,so is easy to remove tank.

I was hoping that it wouldn't be necessary.. but easy enough to do. That will be tomorrow's project. On your tank is it where I can see the two rivets that have been welded over?