Fuselage order of assembly.

[Jlwright]

I've looked at several different videos concerning the order in which people welded their fuselages together. The way I read the Manual it says to tack weld the bottom longerons, cross pieces and braces up to station 3 while flat on the table if I am reading it right. Then bend the whole assembly up to the tail post. I saw where Sam bent the longerons  up to the tail post first then added the other cross pieces and braces. I can see the reason for doing this as it would keep the parts off of the table in order not to set the table top on fire. Looks like it would be easier to tack these parts in while flat to keep everything lined up. Sam, would you build another in the same manner as the first or have you thought of a better way. I have my tables made, painted and ready to level up. Starting to get the itch to make something that resembles an airplane. Thanks

[rockiedog2]

I've built several all doing the sides first laying flat on the table. then stand it all up, jig it in place and weld in the crosspieces and diagonals. that way the bottom longerons are already bent. if bending both longs up to the tailpost at the same time you gotta have 2 torches.  just slip a thin piece of sheet metal under the joint you're tacking so the table won't catch fire as bad. it it does you can just blow it out. some table fires are just part of it no big deal. sides first and flat has always been the easiest way for me.
Joe

[Jlwright]

Joe, I'm sorry but I don't understand what you mean by the sides.

[rockiedog2]

ah s**t i messed that up its a triangle. i just fini doing this square thing and all the others before except the LEU square. yeah the bottom first but it may take 2 torches to bend it up to the tailpost. i remember how i did it now with just one torch...fixed the tailpost  bottom point in space(2x4 or something like that whatever you got lying around or even stand an overlong  tailpost tube up on the table and fix it in place)above the table the right height then bent the longs one at a time up to that point then the crosspieces and diagonals. sorry
 for the screwup
Joe

[Jlwright]

Thought I was really dense there for a minute. :-) thanks
Jim

[Sam Buchanan]

ah s**t i messed that up its a triangle. i just fini doing this square thing and all the others before except the LEU square. yeah the bottom first but it may take 2 torches to bend it up to the tailpost. i remember how i did it now with just one torch...fixed the tailpost  bottom point in space(2x4 or something like that whatever you got lying around or even stand an overlong  tailpost tube up on the table and fix it in place)above the table the right height then bent the longs one at a time up to that point then the crosspieces and diagonals. sorry
 for the screwup
Joe

Wow Joe.....you really messed that one up! ;D 

Yes, only one torch (and one pair of hands) is needed. Jig the tailpost in position and bend each longeron into position. I see no reason to do this any differently from how I showed it in my build log.

[Jlwright]

Alright, here I go. Thanks Sam and Joe.

[grdev]

I laid everything out on the bench, I drew center lines for al the tubing and use my dial calipers to measure the outside of the tubing. First thing I did was chalk a center line and spray it with clear varnish. I read this or saw it on You Tube, not sure which, and laid out everything from the center line. I used the drawings measurements for all my cross table measurements. but remember when you raise the tail and forward sections the distances will actually get shorter on the fuselage. On the tail post that was 3/4", I haven't figured out yet how much longer to make the forward longerons yet. A trip to Lowes or any hardware you can buy 4" sq steel electrical junction box covers. That is what I used under my welds. I had everything clamped to the table with copper 1/2" two hole straps.  It burns the table a little, but I had  spray bottle of water I used to quench the fire, being careful not to hit the red hot steel tubing. I made sure I had two hoe straps just behind the uprights where you bend the longerons up. This is where you will install you .125" thick brackets for your wings and landing gear. I also when I installed my diagonal bracing left about 1/8 distance so the brackets could lay flat against the cross bracing with out a lot of filing on the braces. to raise the lower longerons I used a 1 x 4 pine board. First I raised the end of the longerons and slipped the board in edge ways. I the heated the longerons  about 1/2" away from my two copper two hole straps. When both longerons wer e red hot I simply slid the board down the longerons and they were both raised the same amount at the same time, simple and fast.  I cold bent the lower longerons towards the tail post after had station 3 cross brace installed. I used 3" long 3/4" blocks on the table along the lines I had snapped for the longerons. much the same way you would lay out your wing rib jig. For bending the curved cross tube for the seat I used a 1/2 EMT bender. No need to heat the tube here if you know and electrician, or have a bender. I did heat the forward part of the longerons by station 2.

[grdev]

Some photos of my fuselage. Anyone with about a 32" inseam have a measurement where to place the rudder pedal stubs?

[Sam Buchanan]

Some photos of my fuselage. Anyone with about a 32" inseam have a measurement where to place the rudder pedal stubs?

Jim, I don't have a measurement handy but if you can estimate from my build photos you will be good to go.

[CHARLES DEBOER]

Jim, I have a 30" inseam and I placed my rudder stubs on the lower longerons about 4 1/2" aft of station #1 based on the travel of the rudder horn.  That should allow 4" of pedal travel.  I like to stretch my legs out.

[riorex2002]

Be very careful when using a steel plate as a shield when it is plated with zink or cadmium plating .,when the plate is heated it gives off a very toxic  fume,but I gather that is better than a table on fire.

[Tom H]

The metal elec box covers are a good idea.  I used some thin sheet metal with fiberglass cloth between the metal and the table, but still burned the table.

But, carpet on the floor of your welding shop?  Trying to use up all your risk quotient before flying time comes??

Tom H

[Sam Buchanan]

Keep a towel soaking in a bucket of water close to your welding area.

[grdev]

I have a fire extinguisher  , mop bucket full of water, larger drinking glass full of water, spray bottle and a wet towel! Still catch the table top on fire every now and then as well as my wooden jigs. But almost ready to move fuselage outdoors, as if I weld on the cabanes it will be to tall to get up the basement steps.

I'm going to use a 1/3 Corvair, or at least that's the plan, does anyone know if  station one requires the "V" bracing as used in the DE?