Engine Mount Holes on engine case

[CHARLES DEBOER]

While drilling out the bottom holes on the engine block to repair with helicoils I drilled into an helicoil already in the case.
   Is that normal for a new engine block??  
When I ran a tap into the hole for the new helicoil it stopped short (only 3/8" into the hole).  I looked in the hole with a flash light and saw the tang at the bottom of the hole.  The drill bit just chattered when I hit the h-coil.
Should I continue drilling?
I tried a 10 mm screw and it screwed into the block about 3/4" but no threads the first 3/8".

I think i"ll have to buy some of those studs if I could find out where to buy them.

[Sam Buchanan]

I think i"ll have to buy some of those studs if I could find out where to buy them.

Lower case studs:

http://www2.cip1.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=VHD-N14-4114-2

You'll need to verify these are long enough for the Eagle mount.

[rockiedog2]

Charles
I'm not sure just how the full case setup works but on my 37 horse cutcase I ended up having to put studs in the case...I eventually put jam nuts on those studs against the case back to keep them secure. The rubber mounts didn't allow the torque needed to help keep the studs tight in the case. I ground down the nuts to minimum height and they buried in the rubber bushings with no probs. I also drilled the stud ends and safety wired castle nuts and studs both thru that same hole, wired the top studs/nuts to the bottom studs/nuts.
You're having a lotta problems...the stressful kind. Have you talked to Casler about all that? It looks like one of his motors.

Spencer

[CHARLES DEBOER]

Cassler recommends picking out the factory heli-coil and drilling 1/2" hole and inserting a case saver.  It is a steel shaft that is threaded inside and outside for repairing screw-ups like mine.  He said that I should have the full 3/4" of thread for mounting bolts.

[Steve]

Cassler recommends picking out the factory heli-coil and drilling 1/2" hole and inserting a case saver.  It is a steel shaft that is threaded inside and outside for repairing screw-ups like mine.  He said that I should have the full 3/4" of thread for mounting bolts.

Leonard recommends that you use Timesert repair kits for the best installation and durability in-service: http://www.timesert.com/html/mtrcsert.htm

[CHARLES DEBOER]

Thanks guys.  I am going to bite the bullet and buy the Timesert repair kit for $100 as Leonard recommends.  They have a very detailed video on how to do the work.  I keep saying I WOULDN'T BE ABLE TO FINISH THIS AIRPLANE WITHOUT YOU GUY.  It takes a village ……yada, yada, yada..

[Steve]

I am going to bite the bullet and buy the Timesert repair kit for $100 as Leonard recommends.  They have a very detailed video on how to do the work.  I keep saying I WOULDN'T BE ABLE TO FINISH THIS AIRPLANE WITHOUT YOU GUY.  It takes a village ……yada, yada, yada..

Look on Amazon and do some Google searches for pricing alternatives...


Use the Kit# in the search argument

[CHARLES DEBOER]

I am going to bite the bullet and buy the Timesert repair kit for $100 as Leonard recommends.  They have a very detailed video on how to do the work.  I keep saying I WOULDN'T BE ABLE TO FINISH THIS AIRPLANE WITHOUT YOU GUY.  It takes a village ……yada, yada, yada..

Look on Amazon and do some Google searches for pricing alternatives...


Use the Kit# in the search argument

So far the prices on Amazon are the same.  The kits on Amazon don't include the alignment tool which they offer for extra.  Amounts to same price.

[CHARLES DEBOER]

I finally got the heli-coils out.  Had to buy a 13/32" left-hand drill bit.  Made an alignment jig out of 1" X 1" steel tube drilled a 13/32" hole as close to the edge as I could using an end mill from my local EAA chapter #723 in Camarillo.  Clamped it onto the engine using the shank of the drill bit to ensure alignment and drilled out the old heli-coils.  The pick idea didn't work because the h-coils were recessed into the holes too far.  Waiting for the Time Serts to arrive.  Pictures attached.